Honda Pilot OCI - Pennzoil Platinum

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Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Honda still says to change the oil filter (under most conditions*) every other oil change. If folks look up Honda's "A" service, it says "change engine oil" while a "B" means change the oil and filter. They determine these routines using a Honda-branded filter too, certainly, so even an FU filter isn't needed (although they only cost $1-2 than a Honda filter).


Completely agree, and I was aware of that as well. However, my 2 cents was based on OP's looking for reassurance that he would be OK at "extended" mileages for OCIs. Considering the mess the Odyssey filter makes by draining all over the subframe rail, I would avoid changes on it too!
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Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Considering the mess the Odyssey filter makes by draining all over the subframe rail, I would avoid changes on it too!
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Just need one of these.

12EFE821-60DA-474F-9933-D28D5A011963.jpeg
 
easy - take some aluminum foil and fold it over a couple of times and voila...... old tractor oil drain trick.
 
I will never understand why one would change the oil and not the filter....

I also largely think the OLM is mainly useless, especially in a vehicle utilizing synthetic spec'd for conventional. To the best of my knowledge (and please enlighten me if I'm wrong) there is not a single car that actually analyzes the viscosity of the oil. The OLM is always based on mileage, coolant temp, load, avg trip length, intake air temp, ign cycles, idle time etc.

IMHO, if you want to nerd out (and I currently am) do a fresh oil AND FILTER change on the car with your desired lube. Run the mileage the manufacturer considers "Severe conditions". Draw a sample through the dipstick, send it off. That will more than likely pass with flying colours. Continue running it until you reach the "Normal" OCI. Again take a sample through the tube and send it off. Based off of that now, you can decide weather or not to change it or not. If you continue I would resample in 2500-3000 mile increments until you reached the end of the oil life. That is now your maximum mileage you can go on that oil or 1yr, whichever comes first.

Run another 2 or three OCI'S after that and resample. If that is successful, I might run a UOA once every year or two just to keep an eye on things.
 
Originally Posted by Skier
i feel comfortable doing it - i just wanted to make sure it wasn't a really bad idea. The onwers manual says 7500 but the maint minder comes on about 6k with my wifes city driving. I had all the service records from the previous owner and they were doing it about 8-9k but I think they did more country driving based on where they lived.

also the manual says I can do the filter every other time - never done that on any car but I do run WIX.


Where in the manual does it say 7500 mi? I can't find it.

I thought all modern Hondas did away with mile based intervals, and only use the Maintenance Minder.

http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/OM/ZA1313/ZA1313OM.PDF
 
Originally Posted by STIcandy
The OLM is always based on mileage, coolant temp, load, avg trip length, intake air temp, ign cycles, idle time etc.

IMHO, if you want to nerd out (and I currently am) do a fresh oil AND FILTER change on the car with your desired lube. Run the mileage the manufacturer considers "Severe conditions". Draw a sample through the dipstick, send it off. That will more than likely pass with flying colours. Continue running it until you reach the "Normal" OCI. Again take a sample through the tube and send it off. Based off of that now, you can decide weather or not to change it or not. If you continue I would resample in 2500-3000 mile increments until you reached the end of the oil life. That is now your maximum mileage you can go on that oil or 1yr, whichever comes first.

It's almost certain that Honda (and other automakers) did exactly things like this, with hundreds or more of vehicles, in varying driving conditions, to develop their MM. They also probably use non-synthetic oils in their evaluation and still err on the side of caution by telling the vehicle an oil change is due well before it really might be. Anyone would be crazy to think the automaker is going to trust the average vehicle owner to always change the oil when it's 100%, absolutely necessary. Nope, they're going to build plenty of cushion in !

Look at the majority of reports from the oil analyses posted here. The majority indicate "go more miles". Or, everyone (wants to) think they're special and their driving conditions are "severe" but they're really not. People overrate how hard on an engine it is that does city driving and want to automatically call that "severe" but OLMs (that track oil temperature, idling, trip distance, etc) just laugh and keep the vehicle in "normal" conditions. Unless you're towing and what-not, don't worry. And lastly,
 
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Considering the mess the Odyssey filter makes by draining all over the subframe rail, I would avoid changes on it too!
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Just need one of these.

Looks like you can just cut out the bottom of a 5qt jug and make one of those yourself. Is that permanently there?
 
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*There are benefits to using Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic vs. Platinum Plus synthetic - online from WM you can find good deals .
 
I have a 2012 Pilot with 130,000 miles. I usually do oil changes at about 40% MM. Our Pilot tows utility trailers and a 2500 lb pop-up camper throughout the year. I have not disabled VCM.....yet. The Pilot has run Amsoil SS and XL, M1, Castrol, and PP in 0w-20 and sometimes 0w-30 for oil with Bosch D+, M1, Amsoil and Fram Ultra filters.
I've never had a concern about the engine even though I do notice the VCM rumble when it's cold outside. I am starting to be a little concerned about the transmission, though. It's not shifting as smoothly as it used to and I sometimes smell ATF when in reverse. It's not a burning ATF smell, just a fresh but pungent ATF smell. It's a little over full on the dipstick so it may just be venting. Haven't had a chance to let a little out since my last drain and fill because of weather.
 
I follow the olm on our 19 Pilot. Amsoil SS 0W20 in there now. Filter gets changed every time. I did change the air filter to a AEM. The factory fill went to 7500 miles per olm.
 
Originally Posted by qball16
I have a 2012 Pilot with 130,000 miles. I usually do oil changes at about 40% MM. Our Pilot tows utility trailers and a 2500 lb pop-up camper throughout the year. I have not disabled VCM.....yet. The Pilot has run Amsoil SS and XL, M1, Castrol, and PP in 0w-20 and sometimes 0w-30 for oil with Bosch D+, M1, Amsoil and Fram Ultra filters.
I've never had a concern about the engine even though I do notice the VCM rumble when it's cold outside. I am starting to be a little concerned about the transmission, though. It's not shifting as smoothly as it used to and I sometimes smell ATF when in reverse. It's not a burning ATF smell, just a fresh but pungent ATF smell. It's a little over full on the dipstick so it may just be venting. Haven't had a chance to let a little out since my last drain and fill because of weather.

Maybe time to change the fluid. Back when we had our 08 CRV I did 30K, sometimes 60K fluid changes with Maxlife atf. 180K at trade in with no issues.
 
Originally Posted by qball16
I have a 2012 Pilot with 130,000 miles. I usually do oil changes at about 40% MM. Our Pilot tows utility trailers and a 2500 lb pop-up camper throughout the year. I have not disabled VCM.....yet. The Pilot has run Amsoil SS and XL, M1, Castrol, and PP in 0w-20 and sometimes 0w-30 for oil with Bosch D+, M1, Amsoil and Fram Ultra filters.
I've never had a concern about the engine even though I do notice the VCM rumble when it's cold outside. I am starting to be a little concerned about the transmission, though. It's not shifting as smoothly as it used to and I sometimes smell ATF when in reverse. It's not a burning ATF smell, just a fresh but pungent ATF smell. It's a little over full on the dipstick so it may just be venting. Haven't had a chance to let a little out since my last drain and fill because of weather.

On top of a highly recommended VCM muzzler, I'd also recommend an additional ATF cooler. https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-403-Ultra-Cool-Transmission/dp/B000C39C9A/

Super cheap but plan out a free afternoon for installation since it typically requires taking the front bumper off.
 
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2017 Pilot EXL
EarthDreams 3.5l
6 quarts, PP 0W20 from Wallyworld
I never let it go below 50% on MM
keeps it clean and happy
average 3500-4500 miles OCI
 
Originally Posted by 330indy
2017 Pilot EXL
EarthDreams 3.5l
6 quarts, PP 0W20 from Wallyworld
I never let it go below 50% on MM
keeps it clean and happy
average 3500-4500 miles OCI

Unless you're towing frequently, live in tropical climates, or driving on nothing but dirt roads, why would you not take the MM down to 0%? Does the 3.5 EarthDreams motor suffer from fuel dilution like the CR-V motor does?
 
Originally Posted by 330indy
Since it's DFI not PFI I add a bit of conservatism

A friend and I both have DFI engines in our Mazdas. He drives a ton of highway and I used to. He takes his to 10k every OCI. I would do 7. Again not sure about the 3.5 EarthDreams motor but unless it's dumping fuel into the crankcase, I wouldn't sweat it much.
 
The problem with some DI engines is carbon build-up on the intake valves without port fuel injection to wash it away. More frequent oil changes isn't going to affect that.
 
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