Anti seize vs silicone paste

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
3,551
Location
West Michigan
Front brakes bound up and worn almost through the backing plate this week before I could tear them down. Looks like the inner pads were getting stuck on their ears. Last time I used motor craft silicone under the metal tabs which the pad ears ride on. I guess i can't complain after 5 years but still maybe there is a better option. I have 3M silicone compound, anti seize and jet lube 50% moly paste on hand. Any thoughts on what will prevent wash out and corrosion the longest on a year round salt belt driver?
 
Moly paste, although I cannot comment on washout. I'm pretty sure moly paste is better than anti sieze on pad ears, according to my research. I just learned that AS has abrasives in it so it's not a good idea to use for things other than threads. AS has amazing washout resistance but moly paste might be up there, too.
 
5 years seems like a short time, even if in the salt belt.

I'd think silicone would be good. The thing is, if it heats up and runs off, then there's nothing. Guess that's where high content moly paste becomes a good idea.

Seems to me it's inconsistent though what solution is best where.
 
Originally Posted by JHZR2
5 years seems like a short time, even if in the salt belt.

I'd think silicone would be good. The thing is, if it heats up and runs off, then there's nothing. Guess that's where high content moly paste becomes a good idea.

Seems to me it's inconsistent though what solution is best where.


The silicon never lasts on the pads. Eventually dries up/washes off etc.

I have never went more than 3-4 years so 5 years without any brake attention seems an eternity to me in the salt belt.

When I was using silicone it was every 1-2 years.
 
Well I'm not talking about the pad ears themselves. My F150 have metal clips that go in between the brackets and the pad ears. Under the clips between them and the bracket is a breeding ground for corrosion- just a little is enough to put pressure on the pads and jam them up. I usually wire wheel during pad swaps but sometimes this style needs to get hit with a little filing also.
 
Originally Posted by buck91
Well I'm not talking about the pad ears themselves. My F150 have metal clips that go in between the brackets and the pad ears. Under the clips between them and the bracket is a breeding ground for corrosion- just a little is enough to put pressure on the pads and jam them up. I usually wire wheel during pad swaps but sometimes this style needs to get hit with a little filing also.

You may need to invest in something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mueller-Kuep...mp;psc=1&refRID=GRANDXYR5S94VH8KTJG7
 
Originally Posted by Rand
Originally Posted by JHZR2
5 years seems like a short time, even if in the salt belt.

I'd think silicone would be good. The thing is, if it heats up and runs off, then there's nothing. Guess that's where high content moly paste becomes a good idea.

Seems to me it's inconsistent though what solution is best where.


The silicon never lasts on the pads. Eventually dries up/washes off etc.

I have never went more than 3-4 years so 5 years without any brake attention seems an eternity to me in the salt belt.

When I was using silicone it was every 1-2 years.


While you're saltier then where I am, we do get coated all the same. And more rain too.

My brakes tend to last 100k+, so we never touch them. Not bragging, maybe I should... this is common practice to do?!? I'd guess not, even for dealer serviced cars where they want to sell extra services...
 
I've had issues with the ears on on the backing plates of the pad that just fit too tight in the bracket regardless of lube or not, mainly when the pads are new.


I just take a buffing wheel on my die-grinder and just buff around the ear a little bit so it fits just a tad loose or snug but not tight in the shim material and it moves better freely instead of getting caught and not backing off properly in the bracket.
 
Originally Posted by The Critic
I think the real solution is to disassemble, clean and relube annually.



I never believed that and it never ever mattered. Then along came my 13 Sonata and daughters 15 Elantra. Hyundai had something on its maintenance schedule about annual brake disassembly and cleaning. Yea Right🤥 nice warm to get owners wallet open for nothing.
Then in short order ours started wearing out fast dragging and hers sticking and pulling. Sure enough they were always fine to look at. No new exotic design nothing frozen or corroded 🤷ðŸ¼â€â™‚ï¸Just dirty. So I started just yanking and cleaning sure enough it more or less ended the weird brake issues. The only difference I saw between those and all my priors is they were Aluminum bodies instead of steel. If that meant anything I couldn't tell. The one I did replace didn't show any obvious signs off corrosion build up . I didn't pull the seal and puck to look though. I wish I had.
Another thing to look at with non OEM pads is how well they Fit in the ears. Some use stainless tabs to ride on while some direct fit in the slots. I've seen those so tight you need a little grinder or file trimming so they float properly.
 
I love the Sil-Glide vs Anti-Seize (and others) debate. It never ends.

You'd think someone would've done a fleet test......by 1955 or even earlier!
Anti-Seize seems like it would be a last ditch product to use.
 
polish both mating surface and then apply the stuff suggested here.
post some pics of before and after, I need to address the same on my honda truck, not sure where it keeps binding on mine.
 
Im learning a lot about brakes and what works best in NH conditions from a $20 Amazon infared thermometer gun. I can check the heat coming from my brakes after driving on a weekly basis in less than a minute. Watching to see if rotor surface temps vary and are noticeably hotter than the others. Over the years I was using grease, anti-seize, silicone paste on the ears. Because that's what I was taught to do. But the thermometer tells me the brake dust, sand and grime buildup in whatever lube I was using gets the pads stuck and dragging within months. So now I use nothing. Naked slides/clips, naked ears. Surface rust is less of an issue than lube locking up the pads. Filing ears is more important than grease. Even new. A lot of the new pads drip from the ears when painted. Or the fit is too tight.

Another thing the gun has taught me is calipers fail more often than thought. Especially if you drive a GM with phelonic plastic rather than steel caliper pistons.
 
Originally Posted by buck91
Under the clips between them and the bracket is a breeding ground for corrosion- just a little is enough to put pressure on the pads and jam them up. I usually wire wheel during pad swaps but sometimes this style needs to get hit with a little filing also.

The calipers are cast iron and will develop surface rust no matter what you do unless you 'protect' the surface. Something like anti-seize should provide a layer of protection to help but it's not likely to be a long-term solution. Worst case, re-apply it as needed (no one can give a time frame for this).
 
Check out Eric O.'s brake videos ( South Main Auto ) on YouTube ) . He uses a purple lube on brake parts . He lives / works in up state New York . In the salt / belt .

Only thing I use on our car's brakes is some of the anti-rattle gel on the back of the pads . But I do not live in the salt / belt .
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Originally Posted by buck91
Under the clips between them and the bracket is a breeding ground for corrosion- just a little is enough to put pressure on the pads and jam them up. I usually wire wheel during pad swaps but sometimes this style needs to get hit with a little filing also.

The calipers are cast iron and will develop surface rust no matter what you do unless you 'protect' the surface. Something like anti-seize should provide a layer of protection to help but it's not likely to be a long-term solution. Worst case, re-apply it as needed (no one can give a time frame for this).

I tried anti seize on the caliper bracket surface under the clips and found it prevents the clip from staying fastened tightly to the bracket. I spent time with a dremel cleaning up the caliper bracket and painting with high temperature engine paint I had hanging around. This is second winter. Some minor surface rust. I won't do it again. Will buy a powder coated remanufactured caliper instead. Brake parts are cheap enough it's just not worth the aggravation anymore.
[Linked Image]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top