I read in one of these forums that extended life antifreeze destroys copper. Most of my car's I have converted to extended life antifreeze over conventional green. Should I go back to green? Does anyone have any proof of this?
Extended life destroys copper?
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Whatever next.
Why not use the coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer?
Why not use the coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer?
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I think kschachn has the right answer.
I've used Mopar and Zerex G05 in my 08 Jeep, as recommended by Jeep, changing it ever 5 years. It is now 13 years old and has 138k miles on it and the cooling system appears to be clean and healthy. I doubt anything's been destroyed in it. Even the original water pump appears to be going strong, with no unusual play, noise, or even seepage.
I think putting a coolant formula not specified by the manufacturer could potentially cause some problems, though.
I've used Mopar and Zerex G05 in my 08 Jeep, as recommended by Jeep, changing it ever 5 years. It is now 13 years old and has 138k miles on it and the cooling system appears to be clean and healthy. I doubt anything's been destroyed in it. Even the original water pump appears to be going strong, with no unusual play, noise, or even seepage.
I think putting a coolant formula not specified by the manufacturer could potentially cause some problems, though.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by mpack88
I read in one of these forums that extended life antifreeze destroys copper. Most of my car's I have converted to extended life antifreeze over conventional green. Should I go back to green? Does anyone have any proof of this?
Whatever next.
Why not use the coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer?
Sage advise .
Originally Posted by mpack88
I read in one of these forums that extended life antifreeze destroys copper. Most of my car's I have converted to extended life antifreeze over conventional green. Should I go back to green? Does anyone have any proof of this?
Whatever next.
Why not use the coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer?
Sage advise .
I work at a Radiator shop. Dexcool and the Dexclone coolants eat the solder that holds the copper parts together..
All coolants have azole to protect yellow metals. I think it's nitrate or nitrite you want that protects solder, which Dex-Cool and the new ELCs for truck/bus applications lack.
Prestone Cor-Guard added phosphate back to protect CAB heat exchangers.
Prestone Cor-Guard added phosphate back to protect CAB heat exchangers.
Green or G-05/G-48(otherwise Mercedes would have not backspeced it for their older cars) would be my picks. I'd avoid AMAM coolants unless there is mention of nitrite.
The Prestone Cor-Guard I mentioned was introduced also to address solder failure with the newest CAB-brazed heat exchangers, but those use an unleaded solder and flux not too far off from what's used in potable plumbing.
The Prestone Cor-Guard I mentioned was introduced also to address solder failure with the newest CAB-brazed heat exchangers, but those use an unleaded solder and flux not too far off from what's used in potable plumbing.
But the coolant I use was just regular extended life it has a green color but it's not the same as conventional. So I guess I better question would be with my older cars with copper cores and radiators be fine with that?
Originally Posted by mpack88
But the coolant I use was just regular extended life it has a green color but it's not the same as conventional. So I guess I better question would be with my older cars with copper cores and radiators be fine with that?
An even better question is what is the manufacturer's recommended coolant for each of your vehicles?
But the coolant I use was just regular extended life it has a green color but it's not the same as conventional. So I guess I better question would be with my older cars with copper cores and radiators be fine with that?
An even better question is what is the manufacturer's recommended coolant for each of your vehicles?
Originally Posted by mpack88
I read in one of these forums that extended life antifreeze destroys copper. Most of my car's I have converted to extended life antifreeze over conventional green. Should I go back to green? Does anyone have any proof of this?
Driving home in the middle of the night, and I want to get home with no problems, then the manufactured coolant is acceptable. If you wanna save some pennies on universal coolant do you want to be standing by the road waiting for a tow. I am not going to say it will happen but I am not going to take the chance. JMO
I read in one of these forums that extended life antifreeze destroys copper. Most of my car's I have converted to extended life antifreeze over conventional green. Should I go back to green? Does anyone have any proof of this?
Driving home in the middle of the night, and I want to get home with no problems, then the manufactured coolant is acceptable. If you wanna save some pennies on universal coolant do you want to be standing by the road waiting for a tow. I am not going to say it will happen but I am not going to take the chance. JMO
Originally Posted by mpack88
But the coolant I use was just regular extended life it has a green color but it's not the same as conventional. So I guess I better question would be with my older cars with copper cores and radiators be fine with that?
Pics of the bottle?
Zerex fits that description but it's a weird hybrid between an conventional coolant and pHOAT.
But the coolant I use was just regular extended life it has a green color but it's not the same as conventional. So I guess I better question would be with my older cars with copper cores and radiators be fine with that?
Pics of the bottle?
Zerex fits that description but it's a weird hybrid between an conventional coolant and pHOAT.
https://i2.wp.com/pqia.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Antifreeze.jpg?ssl=1
Here's a nice chart showing what goes in which
Here's a nice chart showing what goes in which
Originally Posted by kschachn
Whatever next.
Why not use the coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer?
Maybe because over time improvements are added to the products? By that argument, would you use the non-detergent SA grade oil probably recommended in the owners manual of a '57 Chevy? Or alcohol for coolant as recommended in the owners manual of a Model T?
Whatever next.
Why not use the coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer?
Maybe because over time improvements are added to the products? By that argument, would you use the non-detergent SA grade oil probably recommended in the owners manual of a '57 Chevy? Or alcohol for coolant as recommended in the owners manual of a Model T?
I've had Dexcool in 1980 TR7 for over 15 years.
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by kschachn
Whatever next.
Why not use the coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer?
Maybe because over time improvements are added to the products? By that argument, would you use the non-detergent SA grade oil probably recommended in the owners manual of a '57 Chevy? Or alcohol for coolant as recommended in the owners manual of a Model T?
I have not seen any evidence that coolant technology has changed much in the last 15 years.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Whatever next.
Why not use the coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer?
Maybe because over time improvements are added to the products? By that argument, would you use the non-detergent SA grade oil probably recommended in the owners manual of a '57 Chevy? Or alcohol for coolant as recommended in the owners manual of a Model T?
I have not seen any evidence that coolant technology has changed much in the last 15 years.
Copper radiators making a come back according to this: https://www.copper.org/applications/automotive/radiators/design_innovations.html
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Originally Posted by Cressida
Originally Posted by Chris142
I work at a Radiator shop. Dexcool and the Dexclone coolants eat the solder that holds the copper parts together..
^ Exactly, yet some people still don't believe this happens...
I believe this happens; and my GM owner's manual calls for Dexcool, which I use...and the radiator/heater core are aluminum...
Originally Posted by Chris142
I work at a Radiator shop. Dexcool and the Dexclone coolants eat the solder that holds the copper parts together..
^ Exactly, yet some people still don't believe this happens...
I believe this happens; and my GM owner's manual calls for Dexcool, which I use...and the radiator/heater core are aluminum...
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