So to recap, did 3x d&f with MaxLife (~$17/gal) and all is well, ie.,shifting fine for ~1&1/2 years on what would obviously be majority ML in the sump. Also on vehicle that originally specs/spec'd Z1. Now considering going to DW1 "slowly" at significantly greater cost, for reasons that appear arbitrary. I think I've got that recap right.
Seems you have to decide if you may be/are influenced by 'imo' a recent sensationalized thread title that hawks the chicken little philosophy. Or are you able to make an informed decision based on knowledge of things like greater sheer stability of full synthetic ATF, so lower starting viscosity but maintaining it much longer. Again on a vehicle that originally spec'd Z1, an expensive oem juice, that had pretty bad anecdotal experiences here including but not limited to quickly sheering.
So with those things in mind, you need to do what you think best. Having significantly more anecdotal experience with ML on a couple of Z1 spec'd Hondas but the same results written in the OP, I know what I would do.
Seems you have to decide if you may be/are influenced by 'imo' a recent sensationalized thread title that hawks the chicken little philosophy. Or are you able to make an informed decision based on knowledge of things like greater sheer stability of full synthetic ATF, so lower starting viscosity but maintaining it much longer. Again on a vehicle that originally spec'd Z1, an expensive oem juice, that had pretty bad anecdotal experiences here including but not limited to quickly sheering.
So with those things in mind, you need to do what you think best. Having significantly more anecdotal experience with ML on a couple of Z1 spec'd Hondas but the same results written in the OP, I know what I would do.