Honeywell Valve Motor

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While trying to get a circulation pump going on my hot water heat system, I noticed the valve motor ( Synchrono Brand) was hot to the touch even though there was cold water inside the valve and plumbing.. I changed it out for another. It got hot as well. When given the command to open it works against some springs and keeps the springs tight until the valve is given the command to close. While it's open, even with cold water in the system, it heats up. Is the heat normal? Of course once the boiler water gets there everything is hot. Here are some pics. They may be familiar to boiler owners.

PS, got the feed pump going by turning the power off to the electronic thermostat and pump relay and re-starting. Too many darn electronic gizmos.
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I have five of those Honeywell valves in our house, and replaced every one twice now (since 1995). They always fail in the open position, as in "why is it so hot in this room?".
Sorry, I don't know if those motors get hot, I've never noticed. I can't check right now since it's -30C, and the boiler is running at max temp.
 
I stopped replacing just the motor part because the problem reoccurred very quickly. Now I purchase the whole valve and unscrew the four bolts from the new unit and replace the whole unit. I don't unsweat the whole valve just unscrew the guts.

If I recall as I haven't done one in several years I think the issue is in the end switches going bad and not the little motor that you replace.
 
Originally Posted by georgemiller
I stopped replacing just the motor part because the problem reoccurred very quickly. Now I purchase the whole valve and unscrew the four bolts from the new unit and replace the whole unit. I don't unsweat the whole valve just unscrew the guts.

If I recall as I haven't done one in several years I think the issue is in the end switches going bad and not the little motor that you replace.

Interesting, so is that the lever and spring assembly below the motor as shown in this photo? This is the closed position.





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I stand corrected. The part that was binding up on me was where the zone valve goes into the part on the copper pipe. I purchased a new valve and drained down the zone and put new valve on with new guts of valve.

The part of valve that's circled was bad it was binding up. I didn't unsweat valve but did drain down system to replace.
 
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Now for the rest of the story. The pivot point of the spring and switch assembly was worn to the point of making the switch contact unreliable. Like George suggested, I purchased a new valve. In my case, I was able to drain the line and installed the new valve as it was identical to the old one, I pressured it back up and bled the air. Works like a charm. Thanks everyone. And yes, I can confirm the new motor does get hot as Fitter30 mentioned.

Snag
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