Turbo / GDI Oil Error Towards Oil Used Or Oil OCI ?

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Originally Posted by SamDavis
Hyundai shares the 2.4l engine design with chrysler and mitsubishi, although each manufacture it separately to their own specs. I have seen forum posts saying the pistons and rods interchange between hyundai and mitsubishi but the blocks have some differences. All turbo engines are harder on oil than non turbo engines, the dexos specs were intended for turbo engines to help with low speed pre ignition.




I think this is not current. If I'm not mistaken, Mitsubishi and Hyundai went their separate ways in this engine alliance. Peugeot Fiat Chrysler or whatever they are called now pretty much runs it.
 
*I checked my oil abain today (2,600 miles on current fill) and would say looking at the oil color on a white paper towel it is a very dark brown. Not to digress but GDI engines appear to darken oil (soot) much earlier in the OCI than do PFI engines in my sig . Soot is abrasive , so a 5K mile OCI would be max comfort for me . I couldn't imagine what the oil in a 7.5K OCI would look like in this GDI engine ?
Originally Posted by Robster
I just changed back to running a 5w-20 (from a 5w-30) in our Hyundai 2.4L. 5w-20 is recommended, and 5w-30 is allowed by Hyundai. I have no concerns running the 5w-20 Valvoline--the specs for that oil look great (really nice NOACK and add-pack). I had no issues with the 5w-30 either, it was just more convenient to stock 5w-20 for both of our vehicles.

The used oil color doesn't concern me, but on a related note the 5w-30 Valvoline I just drained today with 3206 miles of suburban driving didn't look super dark (far from black). If the oil darkens, that's a good thing--it's cleaning and holding contaminants in suspension (now the contaminants are in my waste-oil container instead of my engine!).

Like others have noted, you could go 5000 miles with any modern, certified oil without issues--Hyundai's really aren't fussy about oils, despite what many may think.
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*For my summer fill where the temps range from 70 degrees F. to 95 degrees F. I believe I will try a 10W30 synthetic . At 70 degrees F. I'm not sure how much more start up protection a 5W will have over a 10W ?

Neither winter rating has any bearing on "start up protection".
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*I checked my oil abain today (2,600 miles on current fill) and would say looking at the oil color on a white paper towel it is a very dark brown. Not to digress but GDI engines appear to darken oil (soot) much earlier in the OCI than do PFI engines in my sig . Soot is abrasive , so a 5K mile OCI would be max comfort for me . I couldn't imagine what the oil in a 7.5K OCI would look like in this GDI engine ?
Originally Posted by Robster
I just changed back to running a 5w-20 (from a 5w-30) in our Hyundai 2.4L. 5w-20 is recommended, and 5w-30 is allowed by Hyundai. I have no concerns running the 5w-20 Valvoline--the specs for that oil look great (really nice NOACK and add-pack). I had no issues with the 5w-30 either, it was just more convenient to stock 5w-20 for both of our vehicles.

The used oil color doesn't concern me, but on a related note the 5w-30 Valvoline I just drained today with 3206 miles of suburban driving didn't look super dark (far from black). If the oil darkens, that's a good thing--it's cleaning and holding contaminants in suspension (now the contaminants are in my waste-oil container instead of my engine!).

Like others have noted, you could go 5000 miles with any modern, certified oil without issues--Hyundai's really aren't fussy about oils, despite what many may think.





Re: the soot. The higher soot content of GDI used engine oil seems to be accepted thought on this and other forums, but looking at the UOA I had done on a recent oil change, the insolubles are listed at less than 0.1%, which is standard language for Blackstone Labs as "negligible." It seems that soot would show up as insolubles, but that's an assumption on my part--maybe someone in the business can comment on that. It should also be noted that the drained oil was very dark.

Also, commonly accepted belief is that the Hyundai engines beat the snot out of their oil with "crazy" fuel dilution. . . .again, looking at that some UOA I had done last year, the fuel content is listed at less than 0.5%. This was at an OCI of 4237 miles of summertime, urban short-trip , city / highway, stop & go driving, with a lot of cool-down idling on most warm days--probably considered a severe duty cycle if there ever was one. Fuel dilution claims, at least for the current Hyundai 2.4L seems to be exaggerated. NOTE: the oil did have a gassy smell, pretty much like all used engine oil I've ever sniffed.

It seems that if Hyundai ever had these issues, they may have fixed them for MY2019+.

My overall point is that sometimes we obsess about things that we needn't worry about. Oil color and oil smell cannot accurately predict the health of engine oil.
 
My 2017 2.4L will have a "worse case" UOA at between 3,750 and 4,000 miles with 5W20 QSUD . From there I'll decide if I want to jump up to 5W30 QSUD or try another synthetic (most likely up to 5W30 on the new oil as well) .
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
My 2017 2.4L will have a "worse case" UOA at between 3,750 and 4,000 miles with 5W20 QSUD . From there I'll decide if I want to jump up to 5W30 QSUD or try another synthetic (most likely up to 5W30 on the new oil as well) .




I'll also get a UOA on the 5w-20 I'm using for this OCI and we'll compare notes. Should be interesting! I'm predicting that the 5w-20 will look as good, if not better than the 5w-30 on paper.---my reasoning is that 5w-20 will necessarily contain a superior base stock (compared to 5w-30), resulting in better resistance to moving out of grade / lower NOACK. Stay tuned!
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Just keep rockin' with the name brand stuff at 3.75 OCIs. OEM filters would save you a few dollars and even extend them to two OCIs.
Watch your miles grow as the years roll by and spray that intake every 10k or-so with at least a half-can of CRC.
Heck, in Georgia, you could even move up to a 10w30 and try that for a couple OCIs.

*For my summer fill where the temps range from 70 degrees F. to 95 degrees F. I believe I will try a 10W30 synthetic . At 70 degrees F. I'm not sure how much more start up protection a 5W will have over a 10W ?


10w30 is unnecessary. 5w30 should be fine. Are you planning to tow?

Going thick is not always necessarily better.
 
*No towing - I am concerned with the current fill (QSUD 5W20) going out of grade due to fuel dilution - although fuel dilution (smelling dipstick) appears to have reduced to my nose with more miles now on the engine (33K miles) .
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Just keep rockin' with the name brand stuff at 3.75 OCIs. OEM filters would save you a few dollars and even extend them to two OCIs.
Watch your miles grow as the years roll by and spray that intake every 10k or-so with at least a half-can of CRC.
Heck, in Georgia, you could even move up to a 10w30 and try that for a couple OCIs.

*For my summer fill where the temps range from 70 degrees F. to 95 degrees F. I believe I will try a 10W30 synthetic . At 70 degrees F. I'm not sure how much more start up protection a 5W will have over a 10W ?


10w30 is unnecessary. 5w30 should be fine. Are you planning to tow?

Going thick is not always necessarily better.
 
Originally Posted by painfx
10w30 is unnecessary. 5w30 should be fine. Are you planning to tow?

Going thick is not always necessarily better.

10W-30 is thicker than 5W-30? When?
 
Chris
Pennzoil updated their Oil Promotions Webpages. Especially the page that offers promos on their four new oil flavors. I caught the promo by clicking-on the Pennzoil ad that appears at the top of the BITOG website, when all my malware, pop-up blockers and spyware downloads are turned off.

Anyways, when I clicked-on their new Start-Stop oil, it eventually takes me to a page where it needs to know vehicle, model, year, engine.....etc. When I filled-in the info on my Hyundai 2.4, obviously it mentions Pennzoil Platinum. But at/near the bottom of the page, it claims the Euro 0W40 and 5W40 can also be used - with it's SN Plus certification.

I need to look at the jugs inside stores, for I only roll with Dexos certs attached to the SN Plus. It would be cool to see the heavier grades have the Dexos cert. Maybe with GF-6 and SP oils coming, it will eventually happen..
 
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*Interesting ... My 2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L (non turbo) owners manual only allows : 5W20 , 5W30 or 10W30 weight oils (i.e. no 5W40 listed) .
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Chris
Pennzoil updated their Oil Promotions Webpages. Especially the page that offers promos on their four new oil flavors. I caught the promo by clicking-on the Pennzoil ad that appears at the top of the BITOG website, when all my malware, pop-up blockers and spyware downloads are turned off.

Anyways, when I clicked-on their new Start-Stop oil, it eventually takes me to a page where it needs to know vehicle, model, year, engine.....etc. When I filled-in the info on my Hyundai 2.4, obviously it mentions Pennzoil Platinum. But at/near the bottom of the page, it claims the Euro 0W40 and 5W40 can also be used - with it's SN Plus certification.

I need to look at the jugs inside stores, for I only roll with Dexos certs attached to the SN Plus. It would be cool to see the heavier grades have the Dexos cert. Maybe with GF-6 and SP oils coming, it will eventually happen..
 
Originally Posted by Robster
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
My 2019 Owners Manual states the same as yours.



My 2019's manual also includes 0w-30. . . FYI.

Wow. No Zeros allowed in my chart - neither 20 or 30w, as the manual page recites 5-20, 5W30 AND 10W30.
Yours is a 2019. Mine also has AWD. But it's not the Ultimate. I doubt that matters anyways.
 
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Robster
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
My 2019 Owners Manual states the same as yours.



My 2019's manual also includes 0w-30. . . FYI.

Wow. No Zeros allowed in my chart - neither 20 or 30w, as the manual page recites 5-20, 5W30 AND 10W30.
Yours is a 2019. Mine also has AWD. But it's not the Ultimate. I doubt that matters anyways.



Tiple_Se7en. . . you should note that my info is from the downloaded PDF of the owner's manual. The paper manual may be different--I'll check that later. Here's a pic from the PDF version. Note the "0" highlighted. . . .

[Linked Image]
 
*Interesting - I always thought the newer 2.4L GDI Hyundai engines could use a 0W20 , 0W30 synthetic oils . Hyundai probably omitted to mention in the OM so as not to create a perception that their engines require higher priced synthetic oils (i.e. 0W) thus keeping the perception of low ownership cost intact for the Hyundai vehicles .
 
My buddy just bought a 2018 santa fe 2.4L. I had a laugh when I looked up the oil specs. It said "Latest API/ILSAC". Being N/A Engine would you just use an SN oil? Can't see the need for SN+
 
Originally Posted by STIcandy
My buddy just bought a 2018 santa fe 2.4L. I had a laugh when I looked up the oil specs. It said "Latest API/ILSAC". Being N/A Engine would you just use an SN oil? Can't see the need for SN+



Yeah. . .the Hyundai engines just aren't fussy about oil.
 
Originally Posted by STIcandy
My buddy just bought a 2018 santa fe 2.4L. I had a laugh when I looked up the oil specs. It said "Latest API/ILSAC". Being N/A Engine would you just use an SN oil? Can't see the need for SN+

The need for SN Plus and Dexos 1 Gen 2 oils lies with the pistons and lspi events associated with TGDI / GDI engines.... ie.... 2.4 Korean engines.
 
*Some say Hyundai 2.4L GDI engines are not fussy about oils they use . While Hyundai allows for a spread of 20W and 30W weight oils , I believe in always using a SN+ D1 / Gen 2 rated oil to give the rod bearings and engine internals the best protection and cleaning possible without going to exotic synthetic oils that are costly .
 
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