1st Gen Toyota Sequoia

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Looking at a 2003 Toyota Sequoia(200k miles) and based on all the reading and reviews seems to be a well built one.

It does have good service history, besides timing belt and I don't think that has been changed!!!!

Except things like suspension, timing belt replacement expenses etc. is there anything major which can be a pain and expensive to replace?

Besides being gas guzzler, is there anything should be paying specific attention during the test drive?

I believe battery light on the ODO is on, could be an alternator/charging issues or a ground, is there anything major which could be the reason?

Appreciate any help and inputs.
 
Starter is difficult to repair(below manifold).

Cool packs occasionally die and 8 or replace.

Very good vehicles as I know families who bought this new similar vintage and still drive them.
 
Originally Posted by bubbatime
Originally Posted by maverickfhs
Looking at a 2003 Toyota Sequoia(200k miles)


WHY?



And this is something that needs to be explained ?
 
That's from the era of improperly made frames by Dana Corp. So check the frame carefully for rust.
 
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If it is anything like our 2001 Tundra, you gonna love it.
When I got the Tundra, I serviced all the fluids except antifreeze, did front brakes, installed Bilstein shocks.
You can use a larger oil filter in place of that tiny toy size filter. Then it is a 7 quart fill.
I would also service the PS fluid.
 
You'll be happy with it, just have the timing belt changed ASAP. It'll need shocks at 200k, but other than that you should be good to go. The cats are probably burned up by now, so expect a P0420/430 code soon, not a huge deal if you don't have emissions testing in your area.

There's really nothing to go wrong on that vehicle. Full frame, solid axle, V8 engine. Can't go wrong with that!
 
Originally Posted by bubbatime
Originally Posted by maverickfhs
Looking at a 2003 Toyota Sequoia(200k miles)


WHY?


I take this comment to mean that you know nothing on the topic and have nothing beneficial to add.
 
A friend of mine had one with similar mileage that he was willing to let go for $3500. It did need new cats and the rear driver side wheel well was rusted pretty bad. Only visible when the door was open, but it was an unacceptable area to rust too IMO.

I want to say when the timing belt goes, the engine just dies. Not an interference engine IIRC.

I've noticed that between these and first gen Tundras, dealers can't keep them on the lot.
 
Will it be a travel vehicle over the road or just a local car? These vehicles sometimes eat tires so replace shocks if original most likely as someone else suggested and make sure in alignment. If a local car and vehicle becoming stranded not an issue I would consider leaving the timing belt alone. But an over the road vehicle might change that. Can't recall if there is a plug to inspect the timing belt on this but you might be able to inspect it too. One of my old vehicles had this and I can't recall which one.
 
Known good SUV but can't understand advice not to service a 200k timing belt. It might fail in your driveway or it might fail in the passing lane in heavy traffic and cause a dangerous situation. It's way past interval, it needs changed so why risk it.

And FWIW you might want to do some thorough research on whether that 4.7 engine is interference or not.
 
It's an interference engine and of course if I got it, timing belt and fluids would be the starting point.
 
Originally Posted by 02SE
That's from the era of improperly made frames by Dana Corp. So check the frame carefully for rust.
This is a BIG +1.
Before you buy it make sure to put a scanner on it to check for stored codes and readiness status. Also, check that it is equipped with the upgraded (larger) front disc brakes. Figure on replacing the timing belt and associated parts ASAP.
 
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In 2013, dealer record indicates this: C0D FRAME&ST INSP, CLEAN FRM & CRC APPL - SEQUOIA

Does it mean frame was checked and some rust prevention was applied?
 
Originally Posted by maverickfhs
In 2013, dealer record indicates this: C0D FRAME&ST INSP, CLEAN FRM & CRC APPL - SEQUOIA

Does it mean frame was checked and some rust prevention was applied?
It looks that way. This would have been done in response to the recall.
 
Originally Posted by maverickfhs
In 2013, dealer record indicates this: C0D FRAME&ST INSP, CLEAN FRM & CRC APPL - SEQUOIA

Does it mean frame was checked and some rust prevention was applied?


That was/is Toyota's solution to get it through the frame replacement timeline. I would really go over that frame with a fine tooth comb now since you know that "coating" had been applied. Not sure what the formula was back then, but even the newer waxy oily stuff they put on my Tacoma (April 19') is absolute garbage. Already flaking off and severe rust buildup underneath. If you're really considering this vehicle take a ball-pien hammer and tap several places on the frame, especially around the boxed sections by the transmission and rear wheel-well (inside and out). That coating likes to hide stuff.
 
It means it had the Toyota frame recall rustproofing. It will never rust. It also means it was found to be just lightly/surface rusted when they did the recall so it is actually better than getting a new frame from Toyota. Had mine done seven years ago and the rustproofing is completely intact after 7 snowy New Hampshire winters. They also did the inside hollow parts of the frame that you can't see. It was a waxy stuff that smelled terrible for a week. The axles I do with Fluid Film now. I treated some parts with Corroseal paint that were not the frame.

If you have the chrome rear bumper I recommend paint the INSIDE of the bumper and all brackets with Corroseal or similar. Bumpers will rust from the inside out.

I own the Gen 1 Tundra TRD with the 2UZ-FE V8. The engine is bulletproof. Original P/S pump, water pump and alternator. I changed the rear drum brake shoes at 160,000 miles. The original owner towed a boat with it. Please do the timing belt yes I heard of that engine with 200K on the original belt. The service interval is 90K. Just do it. I would do a front end alignment on any newly bought car. I eventually replaced one of the cats.

Somebody posted photos a few months ago a 2UZ-FE with something large like 350,000 miles and he removed the valve cover for the first time ever and it looked like it just came out of the factory.

In 9 months of the year I get 16.2 MPG but in the winter that drops by 1.5 MPG. I attribute much of it to 4WD use but not all so it's a bit of a mystery to explain the rest. Maybe it's winter gasoline.

It is a lifetime fill transmission but does have a dipstick and a drain plug. I changed the ATF fluid in mine at the dealership with a service coupon. I changed the transfer case fluid with synthetic. I changed the drive belt recently just because. These are all normal maintenance items.

It takes the WIX 51515 oil filter which is the same as the TRD filter, it is a 1 quart filter. Mine does not burn a drop of oil between oil changes, the dipstick is at Full.
 
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