Best oil for my BMW m240i (B58)

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Hi, I am new to understanding oil in more depth but I am definitely keen to learn if anyone wants to teach me. I understand basic stuff like lower NOACK is important to reduce oil burn off and higher base number is good to balance PH. I have also looked Into the importance of viscosity index and understand higher index is more stable.

Anyways on to my question, My car has just gone out of warranty so I will be servicing it myself from now on. I have narrowed it down to 5 oils based on my usage. The car is modified and making just shy of 500whp on e85. It is a weekend car and is mostly driven for joy rides and track days. Although I have done the occasional long distance road trip in it. I live in Australia so I never experience sub 0 climate and the summers can get pretty hot. I believe 0w-40 or 5w-40 would be suitable for my application (not sure which is better)

I have narrowed down to 5 oils and would love to hear other people's opinions. Preferably if you could rank them 1-5 based on my application that would be very helpful. Please keep in mind money is not a factor I am simply looking for the best preforming product.

Kind regards, Richard

Redline 5w-40
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/5W40_MO_PROD_INFO(1).pdf

Redline 0w-40
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/0W40_MO_PROD_INFO.pdf

Pennzoil 5w-40
https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/0e3544af-ccd8-4d0d-899f-10312920cbb8.pdf

Amsoil 5w-40
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g3395.pdf

Motul 5w-40
https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.net/images/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/52/8100_X-cess_5W-40_%28GB%29.pdf?1503652273
 
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Castrol 0W40 will do fine. Do not focus on 0W. That Castrol is thinner than 5W40 but pack same HTHS, indicting better base stocks.
Pennzoil will do, Motul etc. Amsoil is OK, but nothing there indicates anything better than otehr oils.
Redline is really thick. Not sure why would you need that.
 
Hi Mate,

Let's not confuse price and rareness with quality and ability. That is a strange selection of oils for Australia and it certainly shows "money is not a factor". What you need is an oil rated BMW LL-01, and maybe Porsche A40 since you are modified. These are both based on the Euro ACEA A3/B4 spec.

My list would be, for Australia,

Shell Helix Ultra 5W40, KV100 = 13.1 cSt (our Pennzoil Platinum Euro)

Penrite HPR5 (5W40), KV100 = 14.4 cSt, 1240 ppm Zinc.

Castrol Edge 5W40 A3/B4, KV100 = 12.8 cSt

Castrol Edge 0W40 A3/B4, KV100 = 13.2 cSt (no longer lists BMW LL-01, but still A3/B4, PorscheA40 and MB 229.5)

Mobil 1 FS 0W40, KV100 = 12.9 cSt (no longer lists BMW LL-01, but still A3/B4, PorscheA40 and MB 229.5)

Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4, KV100 = 11.9 cSt (it's BMW LL-01, but not Porsche A40)

Apart from the Penrite (which is a bit richer) they all should have about 1000 ppm Zinc. They are all updating and changing specs constantly, but above is the best I can do for what is commonly available in Australia.

Me? Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 as it's easy to find, affordable, Shell's top-shelf product and carries true OEM approvals for A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5 and Porsche A40. Second would be Penrite HPR5 as it's the thickest with the most zinc (for extra protection), it carries true OEM MB 229.5 spec, but I believe their BMW spec is just "suitable for".

Ref:

(SHU PDF)



(Edge 5W40 PDF)



(Edge 0W40 PDF)


(Edge 5W30 A3/B4 PDF)


(HPR 5 PDF)


(M1 FS 0W40 link)
 
Thanks for all the info!! I will look into Shell helix ultra as I like that it still maintains the ll-01 standard. Would you recommend I add a ZDDP additive as I have removed the catalytic converter?
 
No additives. I am willing to bet your owner's manual says to not add any additives to the oil. Why would you mess with the additive pack that comprises the Longlife-01 approval and negate that?
 
Originally Posted by Ov3rLord1377
I have narrowed it down to either penrite's 0w40 premium or shell helix ultra 5w40


Penrite 0w-40

Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40

Between these two which is best ?



Can't go past the shell ultra. I have tried most of the aussie brands and Castrol edge and Valvoline synpower. The shell ultra has been the only oil that made a significant difference in general. Read up on the GTL base oil that is used in shell ultra. The oil is very close or even equal to a PAO based oil. Make sure you get the shell ultra labeled with pure plus technology. Aussie oils are pretty good but cant compare to the big names and their resources.
 
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Originally Posted by Ov3rLord1377
I have narrowed it down to either penrite's 0w40 premium or shell helix ultra 5w40

Hi Mate,
Both are very good full synthetic oils.

The Penrite 10-Tenths Premium 0W40 is PAO based with real OEM approvals for MB 229.5 and Porsche A40, while suitable for BMW LL-01. It's a bit thicker at KV100 = 13.9 cSt and has a higher Viscosity Index (VI) of 182 while being shear stable.

The Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 is GTL (PurePlus) based with Shell being very particular about getting all the correct OEM approvals BMW LL-01, MB 229.5 and Porsche A40. It's KV100 = 13.1 cSt and a V.I. of 168.

Both would have a TBN over 10 for long oil life, and both would have around 1000 ppm (0.1 %) zinc for extra wear protection (over the standard ILSAC limit of about 800 ppm).

I would be very happy with either. BTW Don't add an extra ZDDP (Zinc) additive to either oil, they are very well developed products, use as Shell / Penrite designed them.

Me ? I would go the Shell Helix Ultra. Shell is a BIG oil company, and this is the very best oil that they make.
 
The Shell is about $50 for 5L

The Penrite is about $90 for 5L * from the website it says 14.9 @ 100C

Both very good oils but I am a Shell Ultra fan
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However I just read your first post again lol. The Penrite would be a better track oil especially with e85.
 
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E85 requires a longer injector-on time because of the reduced BTUs compared against regular pump fuel, along with the increased amount of air required to support 500hp, suggests to me that there will be a greater volume of blow-by than would be experienced in an unmodified engine.
For this reason I would tend toward an oil with a good amount of POE as it stands up better to fuel related shear.

40 is probably better than 30 for hard driving in Austrlia given the chance of exceeding 100c although the choice of base stock has an influence here too.

Any A3/B4 will probably be fine, but for the amount of money we can assume you have spent on the engine it would make sense to spend a little more on an oil designed for hard use and performance engines as compared to something made to meet spec and be used in family cars that sit in traffic.

Redline 5w30 or 5w40 would be my choice after logging oil temps in various driving scenarios
 
Redline is a great oil but it is $100 a gallon here in AU

Motul might be worth looking at as well its not quite as expensive.

I still think the Penrite would do the job.
 
Still in warranty so will be using the BMW 0w30,
although I suspect the dealer will put the 0w20
in for the freebie changes.
I think I'll try asking them to use the 0w30 TwinPower Turbo instead.
 
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Originally Posted by Ov3rLord1377
I have also looked Into the importance of viscosity index and understand higher index is more stable.


This is incorrect. Higher VI requires more VII, so don't start down that path of chasing ridiculous high VI thinking you are going to end up with a more stable product; quite the opposite. An oil closer to the VI of its base stocks, assuming the same type of VII used, will be inherently more shear stable.

The Shell product you seem to have settled on is one of their best lubricants and I'm sure will work well in your application.
 
Originally Posted by cristo
Still in warranty so will be using the BMW 0w30,
although I suspect the dealer will put the 0w20
in for the freebie changes.
I think I'll try asking them to use the 0w30 TwinPower Turbo instead.

You can use BMW TPT LL01 under warranty! Or any LL01 oil.
 
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I'm a Motul guy for my B8.5 Audi S4. The X-Cess 5w40 has been my go to every time. If I could get the X-Clean 5W40 for a similar price, I would use that as well. But hey, pick what's relatively easy for you to find. Here in the states, Motul from Amazon is ezpz.

XCess: https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.n...100_X-cess_5W-40__28GB_29.pdf?1492016155

XClean: https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.n...00_X-clean_5W-40__28GB_29.pdf?1492017081

The nice thing about Motul, they're not exactly boutique either, so reasonable prices. They even sell track oil you can check out for those days you do hit the track, if you are a serious tracker.

https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.n...0Power_205W-40_20_28GB_29.pdf?1492017370

https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.n...Trophy_200W-40_20_28GB_29.pdf?1492017370
 
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Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Ov3rLord1377
I have also looked Into the importance of viscosity index and understand higher index is more stable.


This is incorrect. Higher VI requires more VII, so don't start down that path of chasing ridiculous high VI thinking you are going to end up with a more stable product; quite the opposite. An oil closer to the VI of its base stocks, assuming the same type of VII used, will be inherently more shear stable.


I wanted to like this but there's no like button.
 
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Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by Ov3rLord1377
I have also looked Into the importance of viscosity index and understand higher index is more stable.


This is incorrect. Higher VI requires more VII, so don't start down that path of chasing ridiculous high VI thinking you are going to end up with a more stable product; quite the opposite. An oil closer to the VI of its base stocks, assuming the same type of VII used, will be inherently more shear stable.

The Shell product you seem to have settled on is one of their best lubricants and I'm sure will work well in your application.

I think OP meant more stable in regards to viscosity change in the 40c-100c range. If high oil temps come into play then the very high to ultra high VI #s oils are more susceptible to breakdown. However we know that there are cheap VI improvers and top shelf ones which are less prone to breakdown. In this case I would say you get what you pay for.
 
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