Turbo / GDI Oil Error Towards Oil Used Or Oil OCI ?

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Let's face it , there's more to an oil than just how a UOA performed ? ... Most modern turbo / GDI engines require a shorter OCI than yesteryear's PFI non - turbo engines (usually between 3,000 to 5,000 miles) . As long as an oil is D1 / Gen 2 rated - is a top tier PPPP , M1 , Valvoline Advanced , Castrol EDGE , etc. going to perform better than Super Tech , QSUD , Maganatec , etc. (all D1 / Gen 2 rated) at the same OCI of betwen 3K to 5K miles ? ... Probably in the case of the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it's more important to jump up to 5W30 weight and abide by the 3,750 mile severe service schedule and a D1 / Gen 2 rated oil than to fret about top tier D1 / Gen 2 oil or a mid tier D1 / Gen 2 oil as I'm not using them long enough to matter ? ... *In an extremely well kept 2017 Sadona 2.4L GDI non - turbo my oil looks awful at between 2K to 2.5K miles using Valvoline Advanced . Ditto with M1 , QSUD , PPPP and Castrol EDGE . As one Bob's poster once put it : "The Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine trashes oil like it invented the term" ! Stinky , soot soaked , black oil at less than 3K miles of average suburban driving is my GDI engine reward... So convince me what I'm getting for my money by stepping up to a higher priced D1 / Gen 2 rated synthetic oil in a GDI engine that again , trashes the oil like it invented the term and won't make it past a 4K OCI before the even more nasty , deeper black oil is drained so I can repeat the process ?
 
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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Let's face it , there's more to an oil than just how a UOA performed ? ... Most modern turbo / GDI engines require a shorter OCI than yesteryear's PFI non - turbo engines (usually between 3,000 to 5,000 miles) . As long as an oil is D1 / Gen 2 rated - is a top tier PPPP , M1 , Valvoline Advanced , Castrol EDGE , etc. going to perform better than Super Tech , QSUD , Maganatec , etc. (all D1 / Gen 2 rated) at the same OCI of betwen 3K to 5K miles ? ... Probably in the case of the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it's more important to jump up to 5W30 weight and abide by the 3,750 mile severe service schedule and a D1 / Gen 2 rated oil than to fret about top tier D1 / Gen 2 oil or a mid tier D1 / Gen 2 oil as I'm not using them long enough to matter ? ... *In an extremely well kept 2017 Sadona 2.4L GDI non - turbo my oil looks awful at between 2K to 2.5K miles using Valvoline Advanced . Ditto with M1 , QSUD , PPPP and Castrol EDGE . As one Bob's poster once put it : "The Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine trashes oil like it invented the term" ! Stinky , soot soaked , black oil at less than 3K miles of average suburban driving is my GDI engine reward... So convince me what I'm getting for my money by stepping up to a higher priced D1 / Gen 2 rated synthetic oil in a GDI engine that again , trashes the oil like it invented the term and won't make it past a 4K OCI before the even more nasty , deeper black oil is drained so I can repeat the process ?

LOL, what?
 
Lol OP.

You need some cleaner sentences and break up the paragraph into their own thoughts!

But, just use what makes you happy every 5k miles.
 
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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Let's face it , there's more to an oil than just how a UOA performed ? ... Most modern turbo / GDI engines require a shorter OCI than yesteryear's PFI non - turbo engines (usually between 3,000 to 5,000 miles) . As long as an oil is D1 / Gen 2 rated - is a top tier PPPP , M1 , Valvoline Advanced , Castrol EDGE , etc. going to perform better than Super Tech , QSUD , Maganatec , etc. (all D1 / Gen 2 rated) at the same OCI of betwen 3K to 5K miles ? ... Probably in the case of the Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine it's more important to jump up to 5W30 weight and abide by the 3,750 mile severe service schedule and a D1 / Gen 2 rated oil than to fret about top tier D1 / Gen 2 oil or a mid tier D1 / Gen 2 oil as I'm not using them long enough to matter ? ... *In an extremely well kept 2017 Sadona 2.4L GDI non - turbo my oil looks awful at between 2K to 2.5K miles using Valvoline Advanced . Ditto with M1 , QSUD , PPPP and Castrol EDGE . As one Bob's poster once put it : "The Hyundai 2.4L GDI engine trashes oil like it invented the term" ! Stinky , soot soaked , black oil at less than 3K miles of average suburban driving is my GDI engine reward... So convince me what I'm getting for my money by stepping up to a higher priced D1 / Gen 2 rated synthetic oil in a GDI engine that again , trashes the oil like it invented the term and won't make it past a 4K OCI before the even more nasty , deeper black oil is drained so I can repeat the process ?


I get what your saying. I'll take it a step farther and say that a d1gen2 oil is not even a must. Ford has spec'd a syn blend in all of their turbo GDI engines with use of an iolm. That gives the possibility of going 10k on a blend with a standard filter and there are millions of them on the road doing just that. I'm thinking of running a blend like motorcraft or even Napa and changing every 3k. I'd just change it and let go, no uoa or anything.
 
I understand. Oil the one day market grandma OCI drain and fill. I wouldn't never want to go so much as this. Recommend 5w30 GDI premium sauce possible long time.
 
Seems to be a Hyundai thing. Ford engineers need to teach Hyundai engineers how to make a durable engine running 10k OCIs on semi-synthetic.
 
Originally Posted by Jimmy_Russells
I understand. Oil the one day market grandma OCI drain and fill. I wouldn't never want to go so much as this. Recommend 5w30 GDI premium sauce possible long time.

What is the frequency, Kenneth?
 
Pennzoil Platinum 5w30
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I've done a UOA of a Hyundai GDI engine with the "black" oil you describe. It came out very well. Was Mobil one 5w-30 on a 5k interval. Blackstone even recommended 6K change. I'll stick with the 5K, but the black oil tells me the oils doing its job.
 
same here - UOA at 5K - Castrol Edge 5W-30....recommended higher interval
3.3L Lambda in a 2015 Sedona
 
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Op is just reminding everyone that thicker oil is better in case some may have forgotten!
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*Good to know ... Lots of soot generated in Hyundai GDI engines may give a false impression of the oil quality .
Originally Posted by Propflux01
I've done a UOA of a Hyundai GDI engine with the "black" oil you describe. It came out very well. Was Mobil one 5w-30 on a 5k interval. Blackstone even recommended 6K change. I'll stick with the 5K, but the black oil tells me the oils doing its job.
 
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Op is just reminding everyone that thicker oil is better in case some may have forgotten!
grin2.gif





But that is not true.
 
Just keep rockin' with the name brand stuff at 3.75 OCIs. OEM filters would save you a few dollars and even extend them to two OCIs.
Watch your miles grow as the years roll by and spray that intake every 10k or-so with at least a half-can of CRC.
Heck, in Georgia, you could even move up to a 10w30 and try that for a couple OCIs.
 
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Just keep rockin' with the name brand stuff at 3.75 OCIs. OEM filters would save you a few dollars and even extend them to two OCIs.
Watch your miles grow as the years roll by and spray that intake every 10k or-so with at least a half-can of CRC.
Heck, in Georgia, you could even move up to a 10w30 and try that for a couple OCIs.

*For my summer fill where the temps range from 70 degrees F. to 95 degrees F. I believe I will try a 10W30 synthetic . At 70 degrees F. I'm not sure how much more start up protection a 5W will have over a 10W ?
 
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Just keep rockin' with the name brand stuff at 3.75 OCIs. OEM filters would save you a few dollars and even extend them to two OCIs.
Watch your miles grow as the years roll by and spray that intake every 10k or-so with at least a half-can of CRC.
Heck, in Georgia, you could even move up to a 10w30 and try that for a couple OCIs.

*For my summer fill where the temps range from 70 degrees F. to 95 degrees F. I believe I will try a 10W30 synthetic . At 70 degrees F. I'm not sure how much more start up protection a 5W will have over a 10W ?

None.
 
I just changed back to running a 5w-20 (from a 5w-30) in our Hyundai 2.4L. 5w-20 is recommended, and 5w-30 is allowed by Hyundai. I have no concerns running the 5w-20 Valvoline--the specs for that oil look great (really nice NOACK and add-pack). I had no issues with the 5w-30 either, it was just more convenient to stock 5w-20 for both of our vehicles.

The used oil color doesn't concern me, but on a related note the 5w-30 Valvoline I just drained today with 3206 miles of suburban driving didn't look super dark (far from black). If the oil darkens, that's a good thing--it's cleaning and holding contaminants in suspension (now the contaminants are in my waste-oil container instead of my engine!).

Like others have noted, you could go 5000 miles with any modern, certified oil without issues--Hyundai's really aren't fussy about oils, despite what many may think.
 
Hyundai shares the 2.4l engine design with chrysler and mitsubishi, although each manufacture it separately to their own specs. I have seen forum posts saying the pistons and rods interchange between hyundai and mitsubishi but the blocks have some differences. All turbo engines are harder on oil than non turbo engines, the dexos specs were intended for turbo engines to help with low speed pre ignition.
 
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