Straight 30w in Hot Climates

any potential issues with thickening in the crankcase over the life of the change interval, or will it only start to thicken when the TAN>TBN?
 
What about a Straight 40 or a Straight 50? You can also get Straight 60 Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil at I believe Autozone..

Why stop at Straight 30?
 
I don't think I would use it just because I know how much harder it is to pull the rope on my mower with straight 30 vs 10w30 once it gets below 50F.
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
I bought two quarts of ST SAE HD30. It is SN Plus.
The next Walmart (12 miles) had no mono 30 at all.



Yeah, I checked my Wal mart, none left. Had to get 2 gal container at Rural King
 
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
If someone held a gun to my head and demanded I use a single-grade oil in both my Korean models, I would use straight 20W.


lol.gif


good idea if you are 1/2 hr N.E Of Detroit . straight 30 may be dicey during the winter time!
btw, I've heard there are a lot of guns over there
shocked2.gif
maybe even more than 0W oils.

....all those guns are well oiled too. But if they are oiled with straight 30w, then the gun pointed at my head (see post above), won't drip on my shirt.....lol
 
Originally Posted by OilUzer
I was under impression that straight grade oils don't have all the necessary add packs suitable for modern engines.

A modern (meaning something made today, not in the 1930's) monograde motor oil is a modern oil. The only additives they're missing are ones that allow the oil to function in very cold temperatures (e.g., viscosity index improvers, pour point depressants, etc.). They still must have the antiwear additives necessary for them to be labelled a motor oil.

I run VR-1 SAE 40 in a liquid cooled shared sump motorcycle. Here's a UOA:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...voline-vr1-sae-40-4000-miles#Post4835587

What additives aside from the ones for cold performance do you believe are missing?
 
Originally Posted by Duffyjr
I don't think I would use it just because I know how much harder it is to pull the rope on my mower with straight 30 vs 10w30 once it gets below 50F.

Not necessarily. When I lived in NC, out of curiosity, I pulled my push mower out of the carport with the temps in the mid 20's and tried to start it. It was surprisingly easy to pull and start on 30wt.
 
If you have a 60's or 70's beater then a 30 grade will run fine as long as cold temps don't get too low. For anything newer just run a 5w30 or 10w30. They will be easier to find in the stores as well.
 
Originally Posted by Oro_O
Originally Posted by tundraotto
What does a SAE30 do BETTER than 5W-30 or 10W-30 or 0W-30 except cost MORE!?


Are you a troll, or just ignorant and don't understand how motor oils are graded and blended?

Apples to apples, a straight 30 is going to outperform any multigrade in a warm climate.

I never met a TDGI apple with a thirst for straight 30w.
 
Winters can dip to below freezing in southern Arizona easily, and I like changing oil once a year with synthetic. 0w-XX oils are still good around here if you don't like cold start noise.
 
Originally Posted by Oro_O
Originally Posted by tundraotto
What does a SAE30 do BETTER than 5W-30 or 10W-30 or 0W-30 except cost MORE!?


Are you a troll, or just ignorant and don't understand how motor oils are graded and blended?

Apples to apples, a straight 30 is going to outperform any multigrade in a warm climate.


OUTPERFORM? Define outperform in what exactly?
 
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Oro_O
Originally Posted by tundraotto
What does a SAE30 do BETTER than 5W-30 or 10W-30 or 0W-30 except cost MORE!?


Are you a troll, or just ignorant and don't understand how motor oils are graded and blended?

Apples to apples, a straight 30 is going to outperform any multigrade in a warm climate.


OUTPERFORM? Define outperform in what exactly?


Ignorant here still waiting to be enlightened by Oro_O.........
 
Don't think it's that expensive … I got SuperTech SAE HD30 SN Plus for $3.12 each in quart bottles.
 
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by Oro_O
Originally Posted by tundraotto
What does a SAE30 do BETTER than 5W-30 or 10W-30 or 0W-30 except cost MORE!?
Are you a troll, or just ignorant and don't understand how motor oils are graded and blended?Apples to apples, a straight 30 is going to outperform any multigrade in a warm climate.
OUTPERFORM? Define outperform in what exactly?
Ignorant here still waiting to be enlightened by Oro_O.........

Without viscosity index improvers it would be completely shear resistant and would be expected to be better at deposit control.

If your climate is warm enough and you're using a monograde oil that is appropriately rated for your engine there are no downsides.
 
Can a 10W30 be a monograde if it is made from a combo of group 3/4/5 and just gains the 10w30 grade spec due to its base oil?

I remember some discussion that some group 4/5 botique oils were shear stable mono grades but due to being group4/5 they met 10w30 spec.

Can anyone confirm or explain that better than my muddled attempt?
 
Originally Posted by KL31
Can a 10W30 be a monograde if it is made from a combo of group 3/4/5 and just gains the 10w30 grade spec due to its base oil?

I remember some discussion that some group 4/5 botique oils were shear stable mono grades but due to being group4/5 they met 10w30 spec.

Can anyone confirm or explain that better than my muddled attempt?

Sort of. A synthetic oil made with the proper base stocks and no viscosity index improver can be labeled as a monograde but meet the cold weather performance specification of a multi-viscosity oil. Due to the SAE labeling requirements it can be labeled as either one or both. But it isn't the base stock that allows that labeling, it is the absence of any viscosity improvers. The base stock allows the oil to meet the performance spec but the absence of the VII allows the labeling.
 
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