Keep noticing high iron and high silicone, checked breather box and no signs of an air leak. Running vehicle on yearly oil changes which is what is causing the wild variation in miles. Thanks for any and all information.
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17 KIA OPTIMA 8K MILES ON OIL
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To me it looks like the 6800 mile interval was perfect for the car. The much higher iron readings for the extra 1300 mile run doesnt seem worth it, but the type and quality of oil may have alot to do with it.
The owner's manual states 3,750 miles for severe conditions and 7,500 miles for normal conditions. I owned a 2013 Optima with the 2.4L engine. I did 5,000 mile OCIs. I used relatively cheap oils like QSUD 5W30 and Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5W30. I would either use the OE oil filter or NAPA Gold 1334. If you were to go up to a 5W30 and change at 5,000 miles, I think you will see an improvement. The owner's manual allows for 5W30. Keep good records of your oil changes for warranty.
I myself would run that at a 4,000 mile change outs with a Fram Ultra until you balance out. Call Polaris Labs (877) 808-3750 who did the test for Amsoil and ask for Bob Miller, he raced Hyundai's and is their go to guy for anything Hyundai. Have your lab # handy. I myself would 5w-30 in any Hyundi/Kia as a bare minimum. Run cheaper oil on the next two pulls. Test on the second.
I don't have it in front of me, but Kia's idea of Severe Duty is pretty much driving the car in TX. I'm going with the 3500 OCI with 5-30 synthetic on our 2016 Optima. 2.4. Already have the Rod Knock Software update on this grenade, but so far so good at 55K on this ex- Hertz rental. Love the car, hope it lasts. But the wife is lacking defensive driving skills...never her fault but the last 5 cars got totaled. So it may not matter how long the motor lasts. But I digress...........
Unfortunately that's where I'm at, just back the oil changes down and let it go. It appears with the high iron this car may grenade one-day.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
My opinion....
Run a couple 4.5K OCIs with 5W30. Get an oil with much less Calcium than 1800. No more than 1200...... preferably 1000. Look for both SN Plus and Dexos 1 Generation 2 oils. With SN Plus / Dexos, your Magnesium, Zinc and Phosphorous will still be close. Using that-type recipe, you may see an uptick with Boron and down-tick with Moly. Sort of a trade-off. Finding a recipe with around 30 Titanium would be an added plus.
This engine may respond well with Valvoline Advanced or Castrol Edge 5w30.
Run a couple 4.5K OCIs with 5W30. Get an oil with much less Calcium than 1800. No more than 1200...... preferably 1000. Look for both SN Plus and Dexos 1 Generation 2 oils. With SN Plus / Dexos, your Magnesium, Zinc and Phosphorous will still be close. Using that-type recipe, you may see an uptick with Boron and down-tick with Moly. Sort of a trade-off. Finding a recipe with around 30 Titanium would be an added plus.
This engine may respond well with Valvoline Advanced or Castrol Edge 5w30.
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Originally Posted by jw860
Unfortunately that's where I'm at, just back the oil changes down and let it go. It appears with the high iron this car may grenade one-day.
Quote
Iron is at a MINOR LEVEL
Unless it gets significantly worse it's not on the bus to grenade.
Unfortunately that's where I'm at, just back the oil changes down and let it go. It appears with the high iron this car may grenade one-day.
Quote
Iron is at a MINOR LEVEL
Unless it gets significantly worse it's not on the bus to grenade.
Originally Posted by Audios
To me it looks like the 6800 mile interval was perfect for the car. The much higher iron readings for the extra 1300 mile run doesnt seem worth it, but the type and quality of oil may have alot to do with it.
Agree. Need to dial back the OCI, this engine seems to prefer fresher oil. I like Amsoil, but this engine is NOT a good candidate for an annual change unfortunately.
To me it looks like the 6800 mile interval was perfect for the car. The much higher iron readings for the extra 1300 mile run doesnt seem worth it, but the type and quality of oil may have alot to do with it.
Agree. Need to dial back the OCI, this engine seems to prefer fresher oil. I like Amsoil, but this engine is NOT a good candidate for an annual change unfortunately.
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I like to see single digit wear metals. If Kia says 3750 is severe service oci,I'd run a W30 for 3000 miles, sample it, and compare.
Originally Posted by MParr
The owner's manual states 3,750 miles for severe conditions and 7,500 miles for normal conditions. I owned a 2013 Optima with the 2.4L engine. I did 5,000 mile OCIs. I used relatively cheap oils like QSUD 5W30 and Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5W30. I would either use the OE oil filter or NAPA Gold 1334. If you were to go up to a 5W30 and change at 5,000 miles, I think you will see an improvement. The owner's manual allows for 5W30. Keep good records of your oil changes for warranty.
This.
The owner's manual states 3,750 miles for severe conditions and 7,500 miles for normal conditions. I owned a 2013 Optima with the 2.4L engine. I did 5,000 mile OCIs. I used relatively cheap oils like QSUD 5W30 and Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5W30. I would either use the OE oil filter or NAPA Gold 1334. If you were to go up to a 5W30 and change at 5,000 miles, I think you will see an improvement. The owner's manual allows for 5W30. Keep good records of your oil changes for warranty.
This.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
My opinion....
Run a couple 4.5K OCIs with 5W30. Get an oil with much less Calcium than 1800. No more than 1200...... preferably 1000. Look for both SN Plus and Dexos 1 Generation 2 oils. With SN Plus / Dexos, your Magnesium, Zinc and Phosphorous will still be close. Using that-type recipe, you may see an uptick with Boron and down-tick with Moly. Sort of a trade-off. Finding a recipe with around 30 Titanium would be an added plus.
This engine may respond well with Valvoline Advanced or Castrol Edge 5w30.
*Good advice by Triple_Se7en .. After my experimental fill of QSUD 5W20 is up at the 3,750 mile mark - I will be using Valvoline 5W30 Advanced , Castrol EDGE 5W30 and possibly Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 in my 2.4L Sonata at between 4K to 5K OCI's max . While most of the good D1 / Gen 2 rated synthetic oils are using moly / boron in their make up - the additional 30 titanium in Valvoline Advance and Castrol EDGE is an added plus .
My opinion....
Run a couple 4.5K OCIs with 5W30. Get an oil with much less Calcium than 1800. No more than 1200...... preferably 1000. Look for both SN Plus and Dexos 1 Generation 2 oils. With SN Plus / Dexos, your Magnesium, Zinc and Phosphorous will still be close. Using that-type recipe, you may see an uptick with Boron and down-tick with Moly. Sort of a trade-off. Finding a recipe with around 30 Titanium would be an added plus.
This engine may respond well with Valvoline Advanced or Castrol Edge 5w30.
*Good advice by Triple_Se7en .. After my experimental fill of QSUD 5W20 is up at the 3,750 mile mark - I will be using Valvoline 5W30 Advanced , Castrol EDGE 5W30 and possibly Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 in my 2.4L Sonata at between 4K to 5K OCI's max . While most of the good D1 / Gen 2 rated synthetic oils are using moly / boron in their make up - the additional 30 titanium in Valvoline Advance and Castrol EDGE is an added plus .
Oil is DEAD (2.78 TBN)
1) Use 5w-40 or 10w-40 SN Plus
2) decrease interval to 5k miles
1) Use 5w-40 or 10w-40 SN Plus
2) decrease interval to 5k miles
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by Gubkin
Oil is DEAD (2.78 TBN)
1) Use 5w-40 or 10w-40 SN Plus
2) decrease interval to 5k miles
No it's not.
TBN is not dead at 2, let-alone 2,78
But I do support 5K OCIs here. Reason?... UOAs determine oil life, not engine life of a TDGI / GDI.
Oil is DEAD (2.78 TBN)
1) Use 5w-40 or 10w-40 SN Plus
2) decrease interval to 5k miles
No it's not.
TBN is not dead at 2, let-alone 2,78
But I do support 5K OCIs here. Reason?... UOAs determine oil life, not engine life of a TDGI / GDI.
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Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by Gubkin
Oil is DEAD (2.78 TBN)
1) Use 5w-40 or 10w-40 SN Plus
2) decrease interval to 5k miles
No it's not.
TBN is not dead at 2, let-alone 2,78
But I do support 5K OCIs here. Reason?... UOAs determine oil life, not engine life of a TDGI / GDI.
First off most likely I plan to back the interval down but where the confusion on comments comes is on shortening the interval and solving high iron. I even have some early Blackstone samples with short intervals and the iron was high then, obviously the iron goes up with mileage. So with that said in my mind shortening the mileage just shortens iron from the fact you are dumping the oil more often. Now as far as running 5w30 instead I can buy that. Nothing on any of my intervals says anything is really wrong besides excess silicon and iron, again I'm open to any suggestions I just don't think going all the way down to 3k is going to answer my question of high iron, besides hiding it behind several oil changes essential keeping the results watered down.
Something I wanted to add is from research high iron is a direct result of high silicon (dirt ingestion). This even throws me some because they mention usually aluminum wear also climbs up with dirt ingestion. Now I'm not an engineer or expert I was just trying to understand. More oil changes will help through sheer dilution but I don't think they solve the issue. Does Kia's filter material suck on the air filter in general?
Originally Posted by Gubkin
Oil is DEAD (2.78 TBN)
1) Use 5w-40 or 10w-40 SN Plus
2) decrease interval to 5k miles
No it's not.
TBN is not dead at 2, let-alone 2,78
But I do support 5K OCIs here. Reason?... UOAs determine oil life, not engine life of a TDGI / GDI.
First off most likely I plan to back the interval down but where the confusion on comments comes is on shortening the interval and solving high iron. I even have some early Blackstone samples with short intervals and the iron was high then, obviously the iron goes up with mileage. So with that said in my mind shortening the mileage just shortens iron from the fact you are dumping the oil more often. Now as far as running 5w30 instead I can buy that. Nothing on any of my intervals says anything is really wrong besides excess silicon and iron, again I'm open to any suggestions I just don't think going all the way down to 3k is going to answer my question of high iron, besides hiding it behind several oil changes essential keeping the results watered down.
Something I wanted to add is from research high iron is a direct result of high silicon (dirt ingestion). This even throws me some because they mention usually aluminum wear also climbs up with dirt ingestion. Now I'm not an engineer or expert I was just trying to understand. More oil changes will help through sheer dilution but I don't think they solve the issue. Does Kia's filter material suck on the air filter in general?
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Afaik bearing material is copper, but maybe there is a coating on them? Iron is probably typically from dirt because it's wearing the cylinder walls?
Maybe I missed this but you did check for air intake leaks?
You're correct that the uoa numbers will go down mostly from dilution.
Maybe I missed this but you did check for air intake leaks?
You're correct that the uoa numbers will go down mostly from dilution.
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Afaik bearing material is copper, but maybe there is a coating on them? Iron is probably typically from dirt because it's wearing the cylinder walls?
Maybe I missed this but you did check for air intake leaks?
You're correct that the uoa numbers will go down mostly from dilution.
Yes I verified intake hose and clamps are secure, replaced filter at 30k miles with another oem air filter. I even try and stay out of the breather box and not constantly open the filter to add dust to the intake.
At first I just attributed this excess silicon to seals curing out but surely any and all seals would be fully cured by 37k?
Afaik bearing material is copper, but maybe there is a coating on them? Iron is probably typically from dirt because it's wearing the cylinder walls?
Maybe I missed this but you did check for air intake leaks?
You're correct that the uoa numbers will go down mostly from dilution.
Yes I verified intake hose and clamps are secure, replaced filter at 30k miles with another oem air filter. I even try and stay out of the breather box and not constantly open the filter to add dust to the intake.
At first I just attributed this excess silicon to seals curing out but surely any and all seals would be fully cured by 37k?
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Originally Posted by jw860
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Afaik bearing material is copper, but maybe there is a coating on them? Iron is probably typically from dirt because it's wearing the cylinder walls?
Maybe I missed this but you did check for air intake leaks?
You're correct that the uoa numbers will go down mostly from dilution.
Yes I verified intake hose and clamps are secure, replaced filter at 30k miles with another oem air filter. I even try and stay out of the breather box and not constantly open the filter to add dust to the intake.
At first I just attributed this excess silicon to seals curing out but surely any and all seals would be fully cured by 37k?
I've thought before about how much dirt might get past just by checking the air filter. I recently cleaned the MAF on our 2005 Silverado I drive at work...it was filthy around the air box. We work in dirty construction sites. I can imagine some dirt got in when I did that.
I would think you're right about the silicone being gone by 37k but I'm not an expert on that. Hopefully someone else can give some insight on that.
Originally Posted by caprice_2nv
Afaik bearing material is copper, but maybe there is a coating on them? Iron is probably typically from dirt because it's wearing the cylinder walls?
Maybe I missed this but you did check for air intake leaks?
You're correct that the uoa numbers will go down mostly from dilution.
Yes I verified intake hose and clamps are secure, replaced filter at 30k miles with another oem air filter. I even try and stay out of the breather box and not constantly open the filter to add dust to the intake.
At first I just attributed this excess silicon to seals curing out but surely any and all seals would be fully cured by 37k?
I've thought before about how much dirt might get past just by checking the air filter. I recently cleaned the MAF on our 2005 Silverado I drive at work...it was filthy around the air box. We work in dirty construction sites. I can imagine some dirt got in when I did that.
I would think you're right about the silicone being gone by 37k but I'm not an expert on that. Hopefully someone else can give some insight on that.
The cylinder walls of that engine are not steel/iron. They are aluminum. The only thing steel in there is the crank and cam and their components.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
My opinion....
Run a couple 4.5K OCIs with 5W30. Get an oil with much less Calcium than 1800. No more than 1200...... preferably 1000. Look for both SN Plus and Dexos 1 Generation 2 oils. With SN Plus / Dexos, your Magnesium, Zinc and Phosphorous will still be close. Using that-type recipe, you may see an uptick with Boron and down-tick with Moly. Sort of a trade-off. Finding a recipe with around 30 Titanium would be an added plus.
This engine may respond well with Valvoline Advanced or Castrol Edge 5w30.
Valvoline Advanced has a makeup very similar to the Castrol Magnatec. Castrol Edge is a beefed up add pack compared to Magnatec, but it appears that they have dropped Titanium in Edge for some reason.
My opinion....
Run a couple 4.5K OCIs with 5W30. Get an oil with much less Calcium than 1800. No more than 1200...... preferably 1000. Look for both SN Plus and Dexos 1 Generation 2 oils. With SN Plus / Dexos, your Magnesium, Zinc and Phosphorous will still be close. Using that-type recipe, you may see an uptick with Boron and down-tick with Moly. Sort of a trade-off. Finding a recipe with around 30 Titanium would be an added plus.
This engine may respond well with Valvoline Advanced or Castrol Edge 5w30.
Valvoline Advanced has a makeup very similar to the Castrol Magnatec. Castrol Edge is a beefed up add pack compared to Magnatec, but it appears that they have dropped Titanium in Edge for some reason.
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