torquing caliper carrier bolts under spec

[lairdwd]

So I'm half way into my rear brake job, and I don't really have the right tools, so making do with what I got. Realized the torque spec on the caliper carrier bolts to the hub are 90 ft/lbs. But I need to buy an adapter which I don't have, so made do with my 3/8th 80 ft/lbs torque wrench.

You guys think 80 with locktite blue is enough in the ball park or should I get the proper tools and break it lose again and get it to spec?

 

[slo town]

What you did will be fine.

Scott

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Just do it as tight as you can

You could always torque it to 80 and then do a little more with a regular bar

 

[Hall]

Remember, probably 90% of brake jobs are done without the use of a torque wrench and brake parts aren't falling off of people's cars nor causing any problems.

 

[supton]

There's usually not a lot of space, so I've just rapped on on a wrench (lightly) with a deadblow hammer if worried, or just one guttentight if the hammer isn't available. As long as it requires force to free up (but not excessive) I've considered it good enough. I do use a bit of antiseize so it's all the tighter, I guess.

 

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Remember, probably 90% of brake jobs are done without the use of a torque wrench and brake parts aren't falling off of people's cars nor causing any problems.


I have been working on my cars brakes for , probably , 50 years . Never used a torque wrench on them . Just get them darn tight .

If in doubt , you can catch a torque wrench at Harbor Freight , on sale , for $ 10 .

 

[WyrTwister]

Originally Posted by supton
There's usually not a lot of space, so I've just rapped on on a wrench (lightly) with a deadblow hammer if worried, or just one guttentight if the hammer isn't available. As long as it requires force to free up (but not excessive) I've considered it good enough. I do use a bit of antiseize so it's all the tighter, I guess.

Yep . Or grease / oil on the threads . Helps ( a little ) if you live in a rust prone area .

 

[Donald]

It will be rusted in place in a few weeks. No worries about it coming out.

 

[Donald]

I hope you have cleaned and lubed all the rust prone areas. New SS clips if it uses clips.

 

[lairdwd]

Originally Posted by Donald
It will be rusted in place in a few weeks. No worries about it coming out.


LOL, and if the cardone calipers are as rust prone as some of the antidotal stories I've read, the entire thing will be frozen, rusted in place within a year.

 

[JunkdrawerDog]

Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Remember, probably 90% of brake jobs are done without the use of a torque wrench and brake parts aren't falling off of people's cars nor causing any problems.

For most of my mechanicing days I never owned a torque wrench. Hey, I was broke, lol! I just used a little blue loc tite, as you did, and tightened em up. I figured I was probably a little to the low side on torque but the thread locker would take up the slack. No worries.

 

[lairdwd]

Originally Posted by JunkdrawerDog
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Remember, probably 90% of brake jobs are done without the use of a torque wrench and brake parts aren't falling off of people's cars nor causing any problems.

For most of my mechanicing days I never owned a torque wrench. Hey, I was broke, lol! I just used a little blue loc tite, as you did, and tightened em up. I figured I was probably a little to the low side on torque but the thread locker would take up the slack. No worries.


Even to get it to 80 took quite a bit of force, and I thought for sure it was gonna sheer, but I finally got the click. That's with the 3/8th stick.

If I break out the 1/4 torque wrench with a cheater bar I could get it to 90, but sheering is a risk. At least it felt that way with the 3/8th.

Sounds like consensus is that 80 with lock tite blue gets the job done.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister

If in doubt , you can catch a torque wrench at Harbor Freight , on sale , for $ 10 .

This is the answer. Or just pull them up tight.
I would go to HF; you can use this torque wrench for wheel lugs and so many things.
Good luck.

 

[JTK]

Not being a professional, I've not once in ~35yrs of doing brake jobs applied a thread locker goo or torqued caliper bracket bolts and I've never had one loosen. I've even put anti-seize on really nasty looking ones w/out issue.

On my Nissans, the only way to get at the rears is with a box-end wrench.

If I was charging someone for a brake job it would be torqued to specs.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by lairdwd
Originally Posted by Donald
It will be rusted in place in a few weeks. No worries about it coming out.


LOL, and if the cardone calipers are as rust prone as some of the antidotal stories I've read, the entire thing will be frozen, rusted in place within a year.

The caliper bracket can be very rusty as long as the small area under the SS clips is rust free.

 

[doitmyself]

I have torque wrenches in my arsenal to satisfy my OCD tendencies. But, I have also been known to sometimes put center punch marks on fasteners before disassembly to help ease any uncertainty about tightening them back up. This assumes that you have a new or other situation that you trust it was tightened correctly in the first place. Common sense applies. After years of experience and a few mistakes along the way (i.e. aluminum fasteners) you do get a feel for what is good enough,

 

[nobb]

I would say those caliper mounting bolts are not one of the torque critical ones. As long as it's tight enough to not loosen up, you're fine. The bolts are also usually pretty large so you'd have to be a real dummy to torque them to the point that they start yielding.

 

[lairdwd]

Not even gonna get to try torquing the other side.

With my 2 ft copper cheater bar, I managed to round off the inside of the 8mm hex hole inside the caliper bolt. What a poor feat of engineering those things are. I had pretty good leverage on it too.

 

[spasm3]

Yes a cheater on a torx does not work well. Just use your ratchet with one hand on the head and the other hand on the handle. With a 1/2 drive ratchet, you should get it tight enough.

 

[Toys4Life_C5]

When you are new to wrenching torque everything down to spec until you get a feel for it. When you are older, the "right" thing to do is to still use a torque wrench but if you choose to go by the feel of it you are now experienced and less likely to materially under or over tighten the fastner. I still always use a torque wrench on every internal engine part.