Any 0w-30 oil users?

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For the 2019 3/4 ton Ram with the 6.4 liter engine, the owners manual specifies 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, 5w30, 10w30. You can interpret that as you like.
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Originally Posted by mattwithcats
Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 in my Saturn SL2 right now...

That's what's in my Rubicon. The goal is to change my 3 car fleet over to ESP. It should take about another year.
 
Are there still 0w-30s out there? I bought some on clearance 2 years ago for one of my vehicles and haven't seen it since. I'm guessing since no vehicles use it from the factory?
 
I have Pennzoil Euro LX 0w-30 in the FXT for the winter right now.

It's a C3 oil, so it's almost a very thick 30 weight (11.9 cst @100c).

The engine is not as quiet as it was with the Rotella 5w-30 or Mobil ESP 5w-30 but the UOA should tell me more.
 
Originally Posted by jbutch
I have Pennzoil Euro LX 0w-30 in the FXT for the winter right now.

It's a C3 oil, so it's almost a very thick 30 weight (11.9 cst @100c).

The engine is not as quiet as it was with the Rotella 5w-30 or Mobil ESP 5w-30 but the UOA should tell me more.



Yepp, have louder engine noise with shell helix ultra c2/c3 and mobil1 5w-30 esp vs Castrol edge 0w-30 c3
 
Originally Posted by daves87rs
Ran M1 0w30 in my Cobalt. It did just fine- but it made the Ecotec loud!!

Otherwise it did well....


Did you run the AFE or the ESP? The Ecotec had a lot of Euro input in its design and likes an oil with a higher HTHS. I run the ESP 0w30 in a couple of them and its quiet as a church mouse.
 
I have used it in my Corvette. I still start it up every 2-3 weeks in the wintertime and it's good for cold starts. I can't remember whats in there now but it's either Mobil 1 or Castrol Magnetec.
 
Originally Posted by geeman789
In Arizona, why are you considering any 0W oil ... ? 0W oils are designed to work well in extreme COLD temperatures, like -20F and colder. Pretty sure you don't see temps like that, EVER.

Your climate was made for an old school 10w30. Adequate cold weather pump ability, with less risk of shearing down a grade.


It's easy to think of Arizona as a very hot place, and much of it is. But, don't forget, Arizona also has elevations of over 12,000'. So, a 0W-30 is actually great for the varied temps there, without many downsides.
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Originally Posted by geeman789
In Arizona, why are you considering any 0W oil ... ? 0W oils are designed to work well in extreme COLD temperatures, like -20F and colder. Pretty sure you don't see temps like that, EVER.

Your climate was made for an old school 10w30. Adequate cold weather pump ability, with less risk of shearing down a grade.


It's easy to think of Arizona as a very hot place, and much of it is. But, don't forget, Arizona also has elevations of over 12,000'. So, a 0W-30 is actually great for the varied temps there, without many downsides.

If you are doing yard-work in Arizona at 12K feet, be wary of ears ringing, plugging or popping a-lot. Mine did during a week-stay there visiting a neighbor. Plane take-offs, fast elevators......etc...... mess with me-upper head also.

10W30 sounds like the ticket there.
 
Not to highjack the thread, but GM gas trucks are spec'd for a 0w.(it's actually 0w20, but let's not go there.) This applies to Arizona. Those worrying about shearing out of grade using a 0w30 are imaging things. However, I have said this before, If you have evidence from UOA's bring it forth so we can all see it.
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Originally Posted by john_pifer
Originally Posted by geeman789
In Arizona, why are you considering any 0W oil ... ? 0W oils are designed to work well in extreme COLD temperatures, like -20F and colder. Pretty sure you don't see temps like that, EVER.

Your climate was made for an old school 10w30. Adequate cold weather pump ability, with less risk of shearing down a grade.


It's easy to think of Arizona as a very hot place, and much of it is. But, don't forget, Arizona also has elevations of over 12,000'. So, a 0W-30 is actually great for the varied temps there, without many downsides.


A 10W30 oil has passed flow and pumpability tests at -25*C and -30*C ( -13*F and -22*F ).

I think it will be ok ...
 
I use Amsoil 0W-30 in my Civic and HR-V. The Civic had 118,000 miles on it when I started using it and now it has 566,000 miles on it.
 
fit an oil temperature gauge - if the oil temp goes over 100c it is now one grade thinner, so your 30 becomes a 20.

if your oil temp gauge shows over 100c you need to fit an external oil cooler, ideally thermostatically controlled.

this is important because your oil 'grade' only applies at 100c - first thing to do is fit an external temp gauge and monitor, then go to a cooler if it ever creeps up past 100c.
 
Originally Posted by jbutch
The engine is not as quiet as it was with the Rotella 5w-30 or Mobil ESP 5w-30 but the UOA should tell me more.


Just curious, what exactly do you think the UOA will tell you, other than viscosity, fuel dilution, and insolubles? Any other inferences you "think" you can make from a UOA is just a guess, since trying to use a UOA to assess wear is like trying to use a bottle rocket to achieve a space launch... it's not the right tool for the job.

If you wanted to get a better idea of actual wear and what is going on in your engine, you'd need a test like analytical ferrography or filter debris analysis, both of which are prohibitively expensive for a machine that most likely will go to a scrapyard within 10-12 years of its manufacture, and probably over 90% of vehicles scrapped AREN'T because of engine oiling problems or engine wear, it's due to rust, accidents, or some non-engine mechanical failure that's too expensive to fix based on the vehicle's worth.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by jbutch
The engine is not as quiet as it was with the Rotella 5w-30 or Mobil ESP 5w-30 but the UOA should tell me more.


Just curious, what exactly do you think the UOA will tell you, other than viscosity, fuel dilution, and insolubles? Any other inferences you "think" you can make from a UOA is just a guess, since trying to use a UOA to assess wear is like trying to use a bottle rocket to achieve a space launch... it's not the right tool for the job.

If you wanted to get a better idea of actual wear and what is going on in your engine, you'd need a test like analytical ferrography or filter debris analysis, both of which are prohibitively expensive for a machine that most likely will go to a scrapyard within 10-12 years of its manufacture, and probably over 90% of vehicles scrapped AREN'T because of engine oiling problems or engine wear, it's due to rust, accidents, or some non-engine mechanical failure that's too expensive to fix based on the vehicle's worth.



I mostly want to know how the viscosity held up in my engine.

I do agree that oil related engine failure isn't what the most common problem that ends up in a scrap yard. I still want the best for my engine and turbo.

Turbos usually fails before the engine and I do believe that an oil that stays in grade will protect more the seals and prolongs the turbo's life.

Also, a UOA that has less wear materials in the oil tells me less regular wear is occuring (maybe not major issues, but that is another story). Less wear also means that maybe the engine might not consume oil for a longer time.

In the multiple UOA I have done, there is a trend, GF5/RC oils shears down a grade and has more wear materials than the C3 and E6 oils I have tried that stayed in grade.

In the UOA for the Euro LX, I want to know if the oil could stay in grade even in cold canadian winters with short trips.

I'm not an expert by any means, I just like hanging out on these forums and I must admit I like doing UOAs. Numbers and trends do not lies.

What I'm saying is that it is only my opinion and I could be wrong
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