SEAFOAM TRANS TUNE just added to Fragile Honda 5-speed Automatic Transmission

Originally Posted by HangFire
discountdon,

Your transmission shows the classic symptoms of the 4/5 and 4/5 shift sensors going bad, a common and inexpensive repair, I did mine (at 100K miles) for less than $100, and the Blinking D, shift flares and clunking into Reverse went away for another 100K miles. The transmission was toast 214K miles.

Replacing the sensors is about as hard as an easy spark plug replacement.


I know... those sensors and solenoids are cheap and externally mounted too! I'll get them replaced before this spring.

Also I've ordered the external inline filter from WIX:
https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=1871906

The filter just takes a 24mm open ended wrench and two 10mm bolts to undo, after taking the air intake hose, battery tray, and maybe also the plastic engine cover off to access it...
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
OK, so why do you go on and on about an additive (first positive and now negative) and refuse to address the probable mechanical issue that has been pointed out to you by 3 forum members?

This seems to be a common thing with new low-post forum members.


Maybe because the OP is broke???
blush.gif
 
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Left sample was collected from a drain & fill after around 350 miles after the 16 oz of Sea Foam Trans Tune was added, it's dark and opaque and has the strong smell of isopropanol!

Right sample was collected from another drain & fill after around 375 miles to slowly remove all the SF TT. Less isopropanol smell to it.

After each subsequent drain & fill, the magnetic drain plug was cleaner and cleaner...

I will do two more drain & fills spaced out. I haven't been driving the vehicle much... No flare ups nor shudder to report, but I've experienced only one single hard 1-2 shift during this entire interval.

Sea Foam Trans Tune is doing its thing, its safe
33.gif
, no leaks... its updated 09/11/2019 SDS:
hyrdocarbon blend < 95% (most likely pale oil & naptha blend)
isopropanol 67-63-0 < 25%

I'm thinking K&W Trans-X is similar, but with stop leak chemicals...
I was also looking at K&W Trans-X SDS out of curiosity:
64742-52-5 distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy naphthenic 76.2543%
67-63-0 isopropyl alcohol 10 - 20%
1330-20-7 xylene 5 - 10%
108-88-3 toluene 3 - 5%
123-42-24-hydroxy-4-methylpentan-2-one (diacetone alcohol) 1 - 3%
100-41-4 ethylbenzene 1 - 3%

banana2.gif
 
Last edited:
All seafoam products are chemically the same. Just different labels and marketing. The transmission got a drink of pale oil, naphtha, and isopropanol. I would dump that ASAP. Isopropanol does not belong in the transmission.
 
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
All seafoam products are chemically the same. Just different labels and marketing. The transmission got a drink of pale oil, naphtha, and isopropanol. I would dump that ASAP. Isopropanol does not belong in the transmission.


absolutely, I'm planning to do at least two more drain & fills and maybe a third one for good measure spaced out...

anyways the pictures posted doesn't tell the whole story from both a lighting standpoint and also the old fluid had been sitting/settling contaminants.

the first drain & fill after initial treatment was definitely much more dirtier than the pictures show... as expected and going to plan
smirk.gif
 
Hi ,I have never used Seafoam. Questions are How much Seafoam to add to a sometimes "groaning " p/s on a non leaking '03 Dodge Caravan ? How about a 1960's Mopar 727 that "sometimes" has a harsh 2nd. to 3rd. shift ? (about 9 qts. capacity) any thoughts ? Thanks and Happy Holidays Everyone !
 
Originally Posted by Wolfshead
Hi ,I have never used Seafoam. Questions are How much Seafoam to add to a sometimes "groaning " p/s on a non leaking '03 Dodge Caravan ? How about a 1960's Mopar 727 that "sometimes" has a harsh 2nd. to 3rd. shift ? (about 9 qts. capacity) any thoughts ? Thanks and Happy Holidays Everyone !

None. Seafoam does not belong in anything. Let it stay on the shelf at the parts store where it can hang out with its friends Lucas and Slick(50).
 
Last edited:
Honda/Acura models equipped with a four- or five-speed automatic transmission may overheat the converter. Insufficient flow to the TCC release circuit at low RPM allows the lockup piston to drag on the cover, generating heat. This heat glazes the TCC lining and overheats the fluid. Eventually the slip rate cannot be controlled due to lining failure, resulting in code P0740. To prevent this problem, Sonnax offers a drop-in converter charge regulated pressure regulator valve 98892-04K. This valve allows more flow to the converter and cooler circuits, increasing converter charge during low pump output conditions, and includes an internal checkball to prevent converter drain back when the vehicle is off. The same valve design will assist converter charge and TCC apply pressure during low-output/high-load demand situations.

Beyond the Pressure Regulator: Keeping Cool While Investigating Mystery Honda Overheat
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resourc...ile-investigating-mystery-honda-overheat

Overheated Honda Converters/740 Codes
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/7-overheated-honda-converters-740-codes\

8-page Transmission Report: Overheating Honda Converters, Vacuum Testing and More
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resourc...honda-converters-vacuum-testing-and-more

Honda 740 Codes: Torque Converter Forensics
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/24-honda-740-codes-torque-converter-forensics

https://www.piloteers.org/threads/flashing-shift-indicator.18363/page-14
https://www.odyclub.com/threads/honda-transmission-problem-root-cause-and-a-fix.52345/

shocked2.gif
 
I dont have an OBD-ii scanner I'll try one of the big box auto parts stores to see if
Originally Posted by mk378
Flashing D light means that the computer has stored a code, which you should investigate before buying any more stuff.


I dont have an OBD-ii scanner but, I'll try one of the big box auto parts stores to see if they can pull a transmission module code, I know higher end scanners can do that...
 
Originally Posted by mk378
Flashing D light means that the computer has stored a code, which you should investigate before buying any more stuff.


Originally Posted by discountdon
I dont have an OBD-ii scanner but, I'll try one of the big box auto parts stores to see if they can pull a transmission module code, I know higher end scanners can do that...


[Linked Image]


Basic OBD-ii scanner from AutoZone yields no codes stored, would require scanner that can access the Transmission Control Module/ECU.
 
Originally Posted by Wolfshead
Hi ,I have never used Seafoam. Questions are How much Seafoam to add to a sometimes "groaning " p/s on a non leaking '03 Dodge Caravan ? How about a 1960's Mopar 727 that "sometimes" has a harsh 2nd. to 3rd. shift ? (about 9 qts. capacity) any thoughts ? Thanks and Happy Holidays Everyone !


regarding your power steering: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjId3bfMBUQ
if you don't do a line flush, just use the turkey baster method, I'd also highly recommend the https://www.lubegard.com/products/psf-protectant/

whoa! non-electronic all vacuum line actuated 727 automatic??? the problem with any kind of solvents or flushes(detergent or ester based) is that once you put it in, you're going to have to take it out soon or eventually

there's too many variables and it's all at your own risk! that's why many mechanics refused to service older transmissions due to liability - as new fluid introduced to them will start dissolving away the years of varnish from overheated fluid, old friction material, and metallic debris and it will now recirculate!
 
Originally Posted by dogememe
For all the time and money you've spent on additives and ATF you could have fixed the real problem.


because I have a dirty neglected tranny that needed to be clean anyway - and the fact that Advanced Auto Parts has a long running sale on gallon jugs of ALL varieties of Valvoline ATF, for me it was $15.75 per gallon for 6 gallons!
 
Originally Posted by discountdon
...
Will remnants of solvent and alcohol interfere or compete for space with RX? I know I gotta do at least another 1x (or maybe 2x) drain & refill before I start the second phase on RX for 1000 miles - then more drain & refills - YAY!

Your thoughts? Or am I just wasting jugs and jugs of good ATF?

THANKS for READING


The problem is with the friction coefficients. I doubt Seafoam will change the coefficient very much since it is isopropyl alcohol solvent in a light oil.

I would be concerned with the Auto-RX changing the friction coefficients so I would not use it.

Flushing usually means adding a solvent and then completely changing the total volume of fluid and filters and refreshing with all new fluid.
 
Last edited:
Just my two cents, but i am a believer that Honda Auto transmissions specifically like Honda fluid. I dont know what it is but ive owned countless Honda's and have experimented with everything but always go back to the OEM Fluids for my Honda Auto's. Now for Honda Manuals, they arent as picky. The problem with auto trans in general is that they arent maintained, someone new buys the car, drains the old fill along with all the fine particles that was keeping friction and it starts slipping. Just wish people paid as much attention to their trans in general, can't count the number of even manual trans that ive serviced that also look like theyve never had the fluid changed, but fortunately manuals are a little more forgiving with a super long extended drain and fill.
 
Originally Posted by MolaKule
Originally Posted by discountdon
...
Will remnants of solvent and alcohol interfere or compete for space with RX? I know I gotta do at least another 1x (or maybe 2x) drain & refill before I start the second phase on RX for 1000 miles - then more drain & refills - YAY!

Your thoughts? Or am I just wasting jugs and jugs of good ATF?

THANKS for READING


The problem is with the friction coefficients. I doubt Seafoam will change the coefficient very much since it is isopropyl alcohol solvent in a light oil.

I would be concerned with the Auto-RX changing the friction coefficients so I would not use it.

Flushing usually means adding a solvent and then completely changing the total volume of fluid and filters and refreshing with all new fluid.


I've just added 7oz. of Auto-Rx Plus after getting all the Sea Foam Trans Tune out - I'm going with my original plan - it's a gut feeling I gotta follow!

3oz. went into my power steering pump while it was in idle - it had an instant change in sound, a touch quieter.

Update to come in 1000 miles
sick.gif
 
Originally Posted by JmanG
Just my two cents, but i am a believer that Honda Auto transmissions specifically like Honda fluid. I dont know what it is but ive owned countless Honda's and have experimented with everything but always go back to the OEM Fluids for my Honda Auto's. Now for Honda Manuals, they arent as picky. The problem with auto trans in general is that they arent maintained, someone new buys the car, drains the old fill along with all the fine particles that was keeping friction and it starts slipping. Just wish people paid as much attention to their trans in general, can't count the number of even manual trans that ive serviced that also look like theyve never had the fluid changed, but fortunately manuals are a little more forgiving with a super long extended drain and fill.


I agree that Honda Genuine ATF has a very unique chemistry and it was formulated by Honda engineers for their automatic 4 to 6 speed transmissions... but the original Z-1 formula worn and sheared off too quickly, many of their in-house designed transmission had inherent flaws resulting in many failed units. from my understanding the US market DW-1 is semi-synthetic, and the Canadian market DW-1 is full-synthetic - all are lower in viscosity than the original Z-1.

I'm currently running Valvoline Import Full Synthetic ATF, it a bit different than MV Maxlife, manufacturer lists only two elementals: Calcium at 120ppm and Phosphorus at 220ppm - haven't seen a VOA of it, but I would like to compare it to MV Maxlife's VOA... (I just too to do a quick search on BITOG) it also has a higher viscosity than MV Maxlife, closer to the original Z-1's specifications...
 
I almost think the Supertech ATF is better for gradual exchange of fluids. In theory, it perhaps should not matter, but if your trans doesn't like MaxLife.. Try Supertech.

TransTune has made trans improve in shifting, but wont bring back burnt clutches. Tried it in a transmission where the user burnt up Reverse. It did not bring it back. The review on Amazon says it did, but, assuming it was not as fargone...
 
Forgive me. What year is this neglected Honda? Gettin' it cleaner is Job 1. TIA for the 1,000 mile report.

VAGUE COMPARISON: I used Maxlife Dex/Merc LV (full synth.) for 5 D&Fs in an AW55-50 in an '07 Volvo over 30K of ownership and felt good all along the way.
The 6th D&F was Idemitsu conventional. It felt smoother.
I'm thinking "body" works sometimes.

NOTE: I run LubeGard (red) at the recommended dosage -1 oz. per system quart- at all times.
 
Originally Posted by talest
I almost think the Supertech ATF is better for gradual exchange of fluids. In theory, it perhaps should not matter, but if your trans doesn't like MaxLife.. Try Supertech.

TransTune has made trans improve in shifting, but wont bring back burnt clutches. Tried it in a transmission where the user burnt up Reverse. It did not bring it back. The review on Amazon says it did, but, assuming it was not as fargone...


My theory is that my once neglected transmission didn't like the Valvoline Multi-Vehicle MaxLife was not so much because of it's thinner viscosity, but that it was my initial two drain and fills which most likely loosened up a lotta gunk, varnish and old clutch material. It wasn't until later D&F's that it finally improved, the SFTT addition made a dramatic improvement, it's a mild-to-moderate solvent cleaner. Another solvent based alternative to consider is K&W Trans-X which has leak sealers. Although you could leave these additives in per the manufacturer, it's best to remove all traces of them after it has done its job...

I'm currently on my 7th D&F (more to go because I added AutoRX Plus ) - sucks up a lot of time & money, but my transmission has not been throwing any more codes for the last ~2500+ miles, shifts super nice. Looking back, I believe I originally had a sticking 4-5 shift solenoid, although it's cheap and super easy to replace, I didn't. Regardless, I now have a squeaky clean transmission.

here a video that impressed me enough to try SFTT in the first place - in this instance it did bring back reverse gear, temporarily that is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arBmipMwdY4
 
Back
Top