Best Brake Fluid For Hyundai ?
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Whichever brand you choose, buy it on sale. And except for the high perf & racing fluids(which we don't need our our daily driver vehicles), all brake fluids are quite similar and all are synthetic.
Don't buy one brand just because their label states "Synthetic". They're all synthetic and always have been in our lifetime.
I've been using Walmart* SuperTech or Advance Auto Parts WearEver(a.k.a CarQuest) brake fluids for the past 3 decades in everything I've owned from Honda, Toyota/Lexus, Mazda, Nissan and GM, Ford, Chrysler.
Change/flush it regularly(~ 2-3 yrs) especially in a high humidity state such as GA. I would say that this is more important than brand or DOT rating.
Don't buy one brand just because their label states "Synthetic". They're all synthetic and always have been in our lifetime.
I've been using Walmart* SuperTech or Advance Auto Parts WearEver(a.k.a CarQuest) brake fluids for the past 3 decades in everything I've owned from Honda, Toyota/Lexus, Mazda, Nissan and GM, Ford, Chrysler.
Change/flush it regularly(~ 2-3 yrs) especially in a high humidity state such as GA. I would say that this is more important than brand or DOT rating.
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ATE DOT4 SL6
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Thanks ... WM has Super Tech DOT 4 and Prestone DOT 4 readily available ... Castrol DOT 4 is available next day ship to store .
As long as the brake fluid exceeds which ever specification it's designed to meet then the only difference might be corrosion protection , etc. ?
I'm getting new brake pads soon plus having the entire brake system bled ... After that I plan to do the turkey baster thru the master cylinder method of changing most of the brake fluid every 12 to 18 months .
As long as the brake fluid exceeds which ever specification it's designed to meet then the only difference might be corrosion protection , etc. ?
I'm getting new brake pads soon plus having the entire brake system bled ... After that I plan to do the turkey baster thru the master cylinder method of changing most of the brake fluid every 12 to 18 months .
The turkey baster method doesn't do much of anything except keep the fluid in the master cylinder clean.
Brake fluid doesn't circulate through the brake system the way other fluids circulate. It's hydraulic and only pushes the fluid through the brake lines to each brake. You need to get the old fluid out of the caliper(disk) or cylinders(drum) because that's where it really breaks down/get hot mostly.
And by flushing the lines(even if you only do a gravity bleed), this get old fluid out and new fluid in.
I turkey baster the master cylinder and pour in fresh brake fluid then(THEN), I start my brake flush by bleeding each corner.
Brake fluid doesn't circulate through the brake system the way other fluids circulate. It's hydraulic and only pushes the fluid through the brake lines to each brake. You need to get the old fluid out of the caliper(disk) or cylinders(drum) because that's where it really breaks down/get hot mostly.
And by flushing the lines(even if you only do a gravity bleed), this get old fluid out and new fluid in.
I turkey baster the master cylinder and pour in fresh brake fluid then(THEN), I start my brake flush by bleeding each corner.
Walmart has quarts of their house brand DOT4 for under $6 and Advance has Valvoline on sale for $6.
Originally Posted by Char Baby
The turkey baster method doesn't do much of anything except keep the fluid in the master cylinder clean.
That's not entirely the case. Especially if one pushes the pistons all the way down in the calipers, then extracts the fluid and puts in new. While this can be time consuming on some vehicles, on others, such as many motorcycles, and older cars it's very easy.
I sometimes use this method during brake pad changes. It is safe, on many vehicles as no specific anti-lock bleeding procedures are needed and when done with care, the brake light is not accidentally illuminated (some can be difficult to reset) .
But I absolutely agree that frequent brake fluid changes are far more important than anything else.
The turkey baster method doesn't do much of anything except keep the fluid in the master cylinder clean.
That's not entirely the case. Especially if one pushes the pistons all the way down in the calipers, then extracts the fluid and puts in new. While this can be time consuming on some vehicles, on others, such as many motorcycles, and older cars it's very easy.
I sometimes use this method during brake pad changes. It is safe, on many vehicles as no specific anti-lock bleeding procedures are needed and when done with care, the brake light is not accidentally illuminated (some can be difficult to reset) .
But I absolutely agree that frequent brake fluid changes are far more important than anything else.
changing the brake fluid is more important than which fluid is used.
I use DOT3 in my vehicles since it is cheaper and spec'ed for them.
The exception is my motorcycle; I use DOT5.1 in it since I change it annually, it does not use a lot, and theoretically performs better than DOT 3 or 4.
I use DOT3 in my vehicles since it is cheaper and spec'ed for them.
The exception is my motorcycle; I use DOT5.1 in it since I change it annually, it does not use a lot, and theoretically performs better than DOT 3 or 4.
Originally Posted by Gebo
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gebo
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
Nope. Heard it explained on an AGCO Automotive Corp podcast called "The Automotive Hour" sometime in 2018.
Someone had the question of which should I use. DOT 3 or DOT 4?
Originally Posted by Gebo
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
Nope. Heard it explained on an AGCO Automotive Corp podcast called "The Automotive Hour" sometime in 2018.
Someone had the question of which should I use. DOT 3 or DOT 4?
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Originally Posted by Gebo
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gebo
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
Nope. Heard it explained on an AGCO Automotive Corp podcast called "The Automotive Hour" sometime in 2018.
Someone had the question of which should I use. DOT 3 or DOT 4?
If there is such a difference, it must be inconsequential. A Google search didn't turn up anything. https://www.google.com/search?q=dot...027j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gebo
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
Nope. Heard it explained on an AGCO Automotive Corp podcast called "The Automotive Hour" sometime in 2018.
Someone had the question of which should I use. DOT 3 or DOT 4?
If there is such a difference, it must be inconsequential. A Google search didn't turn up anything. https://www.google.com/search?q=dot...027j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gebo
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gebo
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
Nope. Heard it explained on an AGCO Automotive Corp podcast called "The Automotive Hour" sometime in 2018.
Someone had the question of which should I use. DOT 3 or DOT 4?
If there is such a difference, it must be inconsequential. A Google search didn't turn up anything. https://www.google.com/search?q=dot...027j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
What the AGGO guys said was that for most drivers, DOT3 would be the better choice if that is what your owner's manual requires. I've used the ones that say DOT3/4 which I assume is DOT4???? IDK???
On my next change, I am going straight DOT3 from Toyota.
If I remember correctly, there is something that has to to with the DOT4's "wet boiling point" and a "dry boiling point." BUT, the DOT4 is a higher performing fluid. Like stated earlier, either one is fine as long as you change it every 3 years.
Originally Posted by Gebo
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gebo
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
Nope. Heard it explained on an AGCO Automotive Corp podcast called "The Automotive Hour" sometime in 2018.
Someone had the question of which should I use. DOT 3 or DOT 4?
If there is such a difference, it must be inconsequential. A Google search didn't turn up anything. https://www.google.com/search?q=dot...027j1j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
What the AGGO guys said was that for most drivers, DOT3 would be the better choice if that is what your owner's manual requires. I've used the ones that say DOT3/4 which I assume is DOT4???? IDK???
On my next change, I am going straight DOT3 from Toyota.
If I remember correctly, there is something that has to to with the DOT4's "wet boiling point" and a "dry boiling point." BUT, the DOT4 is a higher performing fluid. Like stated earlier, either one is fine as long as you change it every 3 years.
Originally Posted by Gebo
I would use DOT 3 unless you are really into the downhill mountainous tire squawlling driving.
Well.....thats a stupid idea.....because his 2010 or 2017 Hyundai doesnt have just basic ABS but also alot of other additional "gremlins"...like TCS, ASR,.....and much more rafined ABS (quicker) then your decade old fleet in a sig
I would use DOT 3 unless you are really into the downhill mountainous tire squawlling driving.
Well.....thats a stupid idea.....because his 2010 or 2017 Hyundai doesnt have just basic ABS but also alot of other additional "gremlins"...like TCS, ASR,.....and much more rafined ABS (quicker) then your decade old fleet in a sig
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gebo
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
I've posted this old link several times. Who knows if it is any more correct than what AGCO publishes?
To each, their own when it comes to making decisions: https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedi...ic-White-Paper-D5-Brake-Fluid-Basics.pdf
"A seldom talked about characteristic is that because of this chemistry, the DOT 4 fluid will have a more stable and higher boiling point during the early portion of its life, but ironically once the fluid does actually begin to absorb water its boiling point will typically fall off more rapidly than a typical DOT 3. ... The real differentiating factor is that DOT 4 fluid should be changed more often than a DOT 3 fluid, because of the effects and rates of water absorption."
AGCO says it a little bit different: http://www.agcoauto.com/odfaq/index.php?p=default&cat=3#a443
"What is the difference in DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids? DOT 3 and 4 are both alcohol based fluids and are compatible with each other. DOT 4 has a higher initial boil point than DOT 3, when both are fresh and uncontaminated. Because of the agents that give DOT 4 a higher boil point, it is also more susceptible to contamination. Moisture can enter the fluid and lower the boil point significantly. For this reason, DOT 4 should be replaced more frequently than DOT 3."
Originally Posted by Gebo
DOT 3 is not as water absorbing as DOT 4.
You have a link explaining that?
I've posted this old link several times. Who knows if it is any more correct than what AGCO publishes?
"A seldom talked about characteristic is that because of this chemistry, the DOT 4 fluid will have a more stable and higher boiling point during the early portion of its life, but ironically once the fluid does actually begin to absorb water its boiling point will typically fall off more rapidly than a typical DOT 3. ... The real differentiating factor is that DOT 4 fluid should be changed more often than a DOT 3 fluid, because of the effects and rates of water absorption."
AGCO says it a little bit different: http://www.agcoauto.com/odfaq/index.php?p=default&cat=3#a443
"What is the difference in DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids? DOT 3 and 4 are both alcohol based fluids and are compatible with each other. DOT 4 has a higher initial boil point than DOT 3, when both are fresh and uncontaminated. Because of the agents that give DOT 4 a higher boil point, it is also more susceptible to contamination. Moisture can enter the fluid and lower the boil point significantly. For this reason, DOT 4 should be replaced more frequently than DOT 3."
Thanks doitmyself. Here's what I found in your Agco reference:
Does it matter what type of brake fluid I use in my vehicle?
"Virtually all common modern production vehicles use either DOT 3 or Dot 4 fluid. Both are alcohol based and are compatible with each other. DOT 3 has a lower boiling point than DOT 4, but does not saturate as fast with moisture. You should always follow manufacturer's guidelines and use the proper fluid."
Does it matter what type of brake fluid I use in my vehicle?
"Virtually all common modern production vehicles use either DOT 3 or Dot 4 fluid. Both are alcohol based and are compatible with each other. DOT 3 has a lower boiling point than DOT 4, but does not saturate as fast with moisture. You should always follow manufacturer's guidelines and use the proper fluid."
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Any DOT 3/DOT 4
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