BMW N52 low annual miles question +

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I have a BMW with the N52 engine (na, port injected). The car only gets about 3,000 - 4,000 miles / yr. I'm changing oil once a year regardless of mileage. I try to not use the car for a 2 mile errand, but do make a few 7 mile one-way trips. It's been suggested that I even shorten my OCI because of the relatively short trips. I'm having a hard time seeing a reason for more than once a year. These engines run hot so I would think moisture & condensation wouldn't be a big problem. I had one UOA done a few changes ago and it came back good. Now running Castrol Edge 0W-40 with the LL01 approval still on it.

Opinions on more than a once a year OCI ?

2nd question - will a full dose of a fuel treatment like Techron 'mess with' a UOA? I want to do one on my next change.
 
IMO I see no problem with your current regimen. BMW interval for your vehicle is the lesser of 1yr or 15k miles.

I don't know about Techron impacting a UOA.
 
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Originally Posted by GJM120
Opinions on more than a once a year OCI ?

Once a year is what I do on my 530i, with similar short tripping, except mine is worse because I'm up north, so the engine takes a lot longer to get up to temp during winter.

Quote
2nd question - will a full dose of a fuel treatment like Techron 'mess with' a UOA?
Yup, it will, in my experience. I've always seen somewhat elevated metals on UOA whenever I ran Techron, alas, not the same engine as yours.
 
I think I'll skip the fuel treatment before an oil change. My only UOA was after running BMW 5W-30 from a wtty freebie oil change. I want to see one with the Castrol and just for good order since it's been awhile. Don't think I'd ever go 15k miles but that is academic as it would take me 2+ years to reach that.

When fueling at a non-top tier or a non Chev/Tex station, I put a small dose of Techron in. Like 20 ml. From this forum I'm somewhat convinced PEA is the best fuel additive. So I can live without a large slug of treatment before an oil change.
 
I think your current regimen and oil choice are both great. I wouldn't change a thing. Except I don't think I'd be so worried about an occasional short trip, enjoy the car!
 
Originally Posted by edyvw
Keep using Castrol 0W40, regardless of LL01. Current OCI is good.


I can't figure out why the Edge 5W-40 has LL01 while the 0W-40 doesn't. Most on here think the 0W-40 is a better oil. It may be just the approval for 5W-40 has a longer time to go. The only fear is that the 0W-40 formulation changed and it may have some negative - but I doubt it. Probably just a contractual issue. Castrol used to be BMW's oil supplier (it's actually written on my filler cap) now it's Pennzoil.
 
Originally Posted by GJM120
Originally Posted by edyvw
Keep using Castrol 0W40, regardless of LL01. Current OCI is good.


I can't figure out why the Edge 5W-40 has LL01 while the 0W-40 doesn't. Most on here think the 0W-40 is a better oil. It may be just the approval for 5W-40 has a longer time to go. The only fear is that the 0W-40 formulation changed and it may have some negative - but I doubt it. Probably just a contractual issue. Castrol used to be BMW's oil supplier (it's actually written on my filler cap) now it's Pennzoil.


BMW retired LL01 so formulation changes can't obtain an approval. LL04(LL12FE) and LL01FE are acceptable alternatives .
 
I've completely gotten over Longlife-01 (not that I ever really needed it), these days anything with a Porsche A40 or Mercedes Benz 229.5 approval is functionally equivalent or superior. Easy to find at Walmart and inexpensive, especially with the recent Rollback on M1 0W-40 to under $20 when I picked up several at that price.
 
Originally Posted by GJM120
Originally Posted by edyvw
Keep using Castrol 0W40, regardless of LL01. Current OCI is good.


I can't figure out why the Edge 5W-40 has LL01 while the 0W-40 doesn't. Most on here think the 0W-40 is a better oil. It may be just the approval for 5W-40 has a longer time to go. The only fear is that the 0W-40 formulation changed and it may have some negative - but I doubt it. Probably just a contractual issue. Castrol used to be BMW's oil supplier (it's actually written on my filler cap) now it's Pennzoil.

5W40 did not have any changes and does not require re-approval. 0W40 went through small changes and since BMW is not issuing LL01 anymore, hence it does not have LL01.
MB229.5 is more stringent anyway.
 
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by GJM120
Originally Posted by edyvw
Keep using Castrol 0W40, regardless of LL01. Current OCI is good.


I can't figure out why the Edge 5W-40 has LL01 while the 0W-40 doesn't. Most on here think the 0W-40 is a better oil. It may be just the approval for 5W-40 has a longer time to go. The only fear is that the 0W-40 formulation changed and it may have some negative - but I doubt it. Probably just a contractual issue. Castrol used to be BMW's oil supplier (it's actually written on my filler cap) now it's Pennzoil.

5W40 did not have any changes and does not require re-approval. 0W40 went through small changes and since BMW is not issuing LL01 anymore, hence it does not have LL01.
MB229.5 is more stringent anyway.


Makes sense, especially now that BMW is no longer tied in with Castrol. I'll just stick to the Edge 0W-40 barring any negative on a UOA and as long as it's available at a good price. I have two oil changes sitting around so am covered for about 1 1/4 years.
 
Fuel additives are unnecessary if you buy gas that's top tier gas certified. Go to www.toptiergas.com. Secondly, drive you car at least 20 continuous miles at highway speeds on a weekly basis. This gets all mechanical components up to proper operating temps. It will also burn off all condensation in the engine.
 
Originally Posted by Marcozi
Fuel additives are unnecessary if you buy gas that's top tier gas certified. Go to www.toptiergas.com. Secondly, drive you car at least 20 continuous miles at highway speeds on a weekly basis. This gets all mechanical components up to proper operating temps. It will also burn off all condensation in the engine.


I almost always use Top Tier gaso. From this site I've become convinced that PEA additive packs are better than most. Thus the reason for dropping a little Techron or other PEA additive in occasionally.

Also use premium but it kind of annoys me how the premium-regular diff has gotten so big. I know it's what the market will bear, but, it is out of line with the costs. And with the supermajors that differential is even more.
 
Originally Posted by GJM120
Originally Posted by Marcozi
Fuel additives are unnecessary if you buy gas that's top tier gas certified. Go to www.toptiergas.com. Secondly, drive you car at least 20 continuous miles at highway speeds on a weekly basis. This gets all mechanical components up to proper operating temps. It will also burn off all condensation in the engine.


I almost always use Top Tier gaso. From this site I've become convinced that PEA additive packs are better than most. Thus the reason for dropping a little Techron or other PEA additive in occasionally.

Also use premium but it kind of annoys me how the premium-regular diff has gotten so big. I know it's what the market will bear, but, it is out of line with the costs. And with the supermajors that differential is even more.

Best thing for your engine is often to get it out. N52 is not DI engine, so no CBU concerns.
 
OP if it helps I have very low mile BMWs. Run not even 1000 / year
I go 3 years + using Redline HP PCMO. I run them for extended drives, never Just a short drive —-
Also pull off the oil fill cap once in a while, after a heated drive and let the valve cover vent off. Oil drains clean after 3-5k miles...
Good luck....
 
Originally Posted by 330indy
OP if it helps I have very low mile BMWs. Run not even 1000 / year
I go 3 years + using Redline HP PCMO. I run them for extended drives, never Just a short drive —-
Also pull off the oil fill cap once in a while, after a heated drive and let the valve cover vent off. Oil drains clean after 3-5k miles...
Good luck....


I never thought about opening the fill cap. That makes sense.
 
Originally Posted by GJM120
Originally Posted by Marcozi
Fuel additives are unnecessary if you buy gas that's top tier gas certified. Go to www.toptiergas.com. Secondly, drive you car at least 20 continuous miles at highway speeds on a weekly basis. This gets all mechanical components up to proper operating temps. It will also burn off all condensation in the engine.


I almost always use Top Tier gaso. From this site I've become convinced that PEA additive packs are better than most. Thus the reason for dropping a little Techron or other PEA additive in occasionally.

Also use premium but it kind of annoys me how the premium-regular diff has gotten so big. I know it's what the market will bear, but, it is out of line with the costs. And with the supermajors that differential is even more.

Best thing for your engine is often to get it out. N52 is not DI engine, so no CBU concerns.
edyvw or edycol: a coworker says he has concerns with valve seals on 2008 BMW 750Li … (N62?) …
He‘s running Royal Purple … but told him it’s not what it once was. What about Redline ester/PAO ?
He has no concern over cost or approval … just wants to keep driving the car a good while longer …
 
I wouldn't worry about Techron impacting a UOA if you change oil once a year. You shouldn't be using it that often. It's a once a year type of thing at the most, and if you are using top tier fuel you shouldn't need it at all.
 
edyvw or edycol: a coworker says he has concerns with valve seals on 2008 BMW 750Li … (N62?) …
He‘s running Royal Purple … but told him it’s not what it once was. What about Redline ester/PAO ?
He has no concern over cost or approval … just wants to keep driving the car a good while longer …
Is it leaking yet? If not, I would use some heavier stuff. PAO is generally not good for seals and gaskets, though that was long time ago, blenders mitigate that.
IMO (and this is strictly my theory) if it is not leaking yet I would install low temperature thermostat spring in oil cooler thermostat (if there is oil cooler, but I assume there is in that vehicle). There are aftermarket 90c springs instead of 110c spring. Problem with N62/63 is heat. They are running just too hot, especially N63. Also, V8, there is not much space around to dissipate that heat.
If it is leaking, my bet would be some heavy stuff like Mobil1 10W40 HM, or Total 10W50 Racing, even Mobil1 15W50 that is available in Wal Mart. If he is in TX, no worries about cold starts.
 
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