Trying to decide on an oil for new Subaru Forester

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Aug 5, 2013
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WI
Hi.
I've been doing a fairly obsessive amount of research on what I want to run on our 2019 Forester. First oil change is coming up. I've never owned a car with so many oil mysteries that can't seem to be agreed upon. There is the oil filter bypass PSI issue and the new DI and possible fuel dilution and fouled intake valve concerns. There are also reports of square filter gaskets leaking. I finally jumped the first hurdle and just ordered 4 OEM Subaru filters and crush washers. My second choice would have been the WIX 7055, but it has a square gasket. The high end option would be the Tokyo Roki filter made for the Mazda RX-8. This would be a very similar filter to the one that comes on the car from Japan. These are a good deal more expensive and I liked getting the washers in the package.
So now I need to settle on an oil. My main concerns are fuel dilution and whether the oil contributes to intake valve fouling due to recirculated crankcase gasses containing oil. There is a great deal of conjecture as to whether low NOACK is vital for the valve issues. Some say that it reduces vaporized oil in the intake gasses. Others say that the offending oil is actually a mist, not a vapor, and that low NOACK isn't a magic bullet. Then we get to calcium numbers and calcium vs magnesium and sulfated ash numbers. What do you think about PAO vs GTL for fuel dilution?
If I wasn't obsessing I'd run down to WM tomorrow and grab a jug of Mobil 1 Extended Performance in 0w-20. I still just might do that. Does anyone have any personal insight or preference in this specific situation? I also think I'll order a Fumoto for this one. Because the filter is right on top, I wouldn't have to use ramps at all.

Anyway, what oil should I use?
 
Are you going to run it hard at all? If not, I'd say your thought of M1-EP 0W-20 would be a fine choice. I've read here that it has a nice dose (up to 60%, even?) of PAO (fully synthetic group IV fluid). Noack value should be acceptable (probably 10-11%) for a 0W-20. Modern formulation will have lower Ca to fight LSPI, and higher Mg (detergents). It will have some moly and some boron as anti-wear/friction reduction. And it's available at any local store.

Just do some research on here and compare VOAs and UOAs of various oils. And see which one you like.

There should also be some Forester UOAs to look at.

I can tell you that I ran PPPP 10W-30 in my 2016 WRX for the 3 years I owned it and i had zero issues. I chose it specifically because it had some of the lowest Noack values of any oil at ANY price. And the WRX calls for a 5W-30. And I ran it hard at times, to put it mildly.
 
If the concern is fuel dillution PAO baseoil's are not the best choice although I believe you are looking to far into the pine needles here. For fuel dillution the better option is something with a ester such as Castrol Magatec or a HM oil with an ester.
 
Any quality brand name 0W-20 syn is going to be fine. As far as filters are concerned, the OEM Subaru will of course be fine, but with three Subarus in my current fleet, I can attest that I have never had a Wix/Fram filter leak at the gasket. The 57055/7055 is a good choice as well in the future.
 
I'm running Motul ecolite 0w-20/ OEM filter combo in a 2019 subaru crosstrek with (seemingly) good results. This is my cousins car that I maintain and she already has 50,000kms on it. She does basically 10k kms every two months. Doesn't burn a drop or smell like fuel whatsoever. Unfortunately I can't back that up with stats yet as I haven't done a UOA but am doing so in the near future in an effort to extend the OCI out a little more.
 
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I use NAPA synthetic 0W20 oil in both my Subarus and buy it on sale. I buy OEM Subaru filters by the 6 pack on Amazon for a good price. Not that I am one to say only use OEM filters. I got a quantity of NAPA Platinum filters on a very good sale for my Subaru and Ford F250 so I am using those now.

I have the feeling that people who buy a Subaru Forester are not going to be driving them hard.

The Subaru (both of mine) does require a synthetic 0W20 oil.

Fumoto valve makes oil changes a snap.
 
If it were me, I'd run the OEM Subaru Filters from dealer, OCI 3K, and run a Pennzoil product in the weight recommended.
But there is nothing wrong with Mobil. What does the dealership use? Subaru forums? You need to have confidence in
your oil of choice and there isn't gonna be a consensus here (I don't think). What does your gut tell you? Mobil?

Please don't fall for this extreme extended drain interval. I'd never go more than a 5k OCI on anything. You spent a lot of money
for your new Subaru and I would treat it with the utmost care. I'll be called wasteful, ignorant, goofy, etc but if I could do
over I would have done 3K OCI's on all my cars with OEM from the dealer filters. Too many copy cats selling filters that look
OEM.

I Fumoto'd 4 of my cars and was very disappointed in "my" applications. I removed them all as they stuck down and I was afraid I'd hit something
and break them off and lose all my oil.
They left more oil in the drain pan than when I used the drain plugs. Notice I referred them as "MY" applications. Your application may be much better and safer.
 
Any major brand of oil that meets the specs for your Forester will run just fine. As mentioned already, SN+ and d1G2 are the better options especially if this is a GDI engine.

As for the Fumoto, that's a personal decision. How much room do you need to get under the vehicle? A safe and inexpensive way is to use some scrap 2x lumber and make your own stacked ramp. 2x8 will work. I use this on my CX5.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I left out some important info. The car is usually driven by my wife - just 5 miles in the morning, then probably 10 more with errands later in the day. And it gets remote started 4 or 5 times a week for 5 minutes on the cold WI mornings. I know, not ideal. I have not experienced obvious fuel dilution in the first 4.5k miles.
My planned OCI will be no more than 5000 miles to start. The car won't be driven hard but when I get to drive it on weekends, I try to get the revs up and the oil temp up to 225 for a while, I drive it in S mode for higher revs and fortunately they gave drivers an option to put an oil temp readout on the upper display.
I'm hoping that I can can get at the Fumoto without ramps. I own ramps, just would be nice to not have to drag them out. If I can't get at the plug without ramps, I don't think the valve will really make much of a difference. Donald, can you get at the valve without lifting the car? I don't think I'll analyze the first change, but will send in a sample of the first OCI from my chosen oil.
 
Originally Posted by qball16
Hi.
I've been doing a fairly obsessive amount of research on what I want to run on our 2019 Forester. First oil change is coming up. I'

Anyway, what oil should I use?


Yep you got it bad. But Ive done the research and have owned 3 FB20/25 engines already.

Best is Valvoline Advanced 0W20 with a 1/2 qt of Magnatec 5W20 on top.

Superb - maybe the best - UOA on a Subaru .Crossrek FB2) and We went 9k miles.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...mi-17-subaru-crosstrek-52665#Post5205570

More Advice:

Don't overfill by any amount.

I would order and use the Roki filters if possible.

The Fram/Subaru blues are just OK.. but have TC noise issues.

The Filter is up top near the battery tray with a spill-over basin,so you can monitor leaks if you go WIX.

NO Fumoto! Just hearing that name makes me want to grab an M1 Carbine.
There should be a window in the undertray to get to the oil drain plug. If Not - Cut one.

No M1 in Subaru - they don't like it historically. But if you do, Use the EP and leave it in for 10K if you drive over 20K a year.

Good luck. Now worry about the CVT trans instead
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I had a forester and a outback with the fb25 engine. I ran 15k ocis on Mobil 1 EP. great UOAs...keep an eye on your oil level. Those engines have a bad ring design and are known to burn it...
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by qball16
Hi.
I've been doing a fairly obsessive amount of research on what I want to run on our 2019 Forester. First oil change is coming up. I'

Anyway, what oil should I use?


Yep you got it bad. But Ive done the research and have owned 3 FB20/25 engines already.

Best is Valvoline Advanced 0W20 with a 1/2 qt of Magnatec 5W20 on top.

Superb - maybe the best - UOA on a Subaru .Crossrek FB2) and We went 9k miles.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...mi-17-subaru-crosstrek-52665#Post5205570

More Advice:

Don't overfill by any amount.

I would order and use the Roki filters if possible.

The Fram/Subaru blues are just OK.. but have TC noise issues.

The Filter is up top near the battery tray with a spill-over basin,so you can monitor leaks if you go WIX.

NO Fumoto! Just hearing that name makes me want to grab an M1 Carbine.
There should be a window in the undertray to get to the oil drain plug. If Not - Cut one.

No M1 in Subaru - they don't like it historically. But if you do, Use the EP and leave it in for 10K if you drive over 20K a year.

Good luck. Now worry about the CVT trans instead
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Yes both of mine shelled the cvt at around 90k. Some ridiculous price like 6500$ was quoted so o traded em in. I thought the first was a fluke so I got another subie...the second was traded in another brand
 
Honestly any SN Dexos1 gen 2 0w20 will be more than enough in your engine. Even Supertech which is a good oil.

My advice is to find the one that makes you feel good based on price and bottle color.

I have done some research and Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Supertech(Warren) in that order seem to have some of the lowest Noacc which is important for direct injection engines. All have very similar add packs. I am using Valvoline now, but might use Quaker State next since I can readily get it cheap at Menards and also have no problem using a Warren Dist product - Supertech, Pronto, Amazon(wouldn't ever buy Amazon though).

I am using mostly Wix filters since I have a good source for them with a work discount.
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
qball16 said:
Good luck. Now worry about the CVT trans instead
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Thank you. Now I have something to do for the next few weeks!
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Oh,
Originally Posted by cmlind
Honestly any SN Dexos1 gen 2 0w20 will be more than enough in your engine. Even Supertech which is a good oil.

My advice is to find the one that makes you feel good based on price and bottle color.

I have done some research and Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Supertech(Warren) in that order seem to have some of the lowest Noacc which is important for direct injection engines. All have very similar add packs. I am using Valvoline now, but might use Quaker State next since I can readily get it cheap at Menards and also have no problem using a Warren Dist product - Supertech, Pronto, Amazon(wouldn't ever buy Amazon though).

I am using mostly Wix filters since I have a good source for them with a work discount.


Oh hey, we can be friends.

REGULAR and TIMELY maintenance with a high quality name brand oil and filter that meets spec is going to be more important that almost any other metric.

Name brand can certainly include the well established house brands.

We are going to be picking up a crosstrek in the new year. I will probably use Havoline ProDS or Valvoline FS w/ maxlife (brands that I trust and give me the feel-goods), but I'm sure any 0w20 would be just fine.

Probably looking at Fram Ultra filters, but I could go with OEM as well. But again, I don't think it makes a difference, these are just MY trusted preferences.
 
I don't even think that the Subaru/Idemitsu oil has been reformulated yet to meet API SN+/D1G2. Subaru Japan is also still recommending "only" API SN.

If you do a uoa, use a lab that can test fuel via GC and be sure to request it as well. A lab that extrapolates fuel from the flashpoint will usually show lower fuel %.

At 185k miles, I never had an oil filter issue running Honeywells or whatever free filter that came with an oil sale.
 
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'16 Forester with a 2.5, so no DI. I've used almost every 0w-20 walmart sells. Subjectively, I thought the car idled a bit better with Valvoline than anything else. Never did a UOA. Used different filters but mostly the blue dealer filters due to warranty concerns. Never notice a difference with filters but that bypass issue has me thinking. Some say its an issue some say nonsense.
 
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