post your latest transmission lubricant change.

2015 Mazda 5 and
2013 Mazda 6

I had called the local Mazda dealer and asked a tech about the trans servicing for these models and he said to wait no more than 60,000 miles as that is about when irreconcilable damage starts to happen. I appreciated his honesty. This prompted me to get them serviced. I am convinced of the failed quality of Mazda MV fluid. Both cars, the fluid was cruddy and smelly. I am also a believer in the continual 30,000 mile servicing.

2015 Mazda:
Last year, 60,000 miles I had the dealership do this. It was a full replacement. Will do a servicing with Amsoil at the local shop at 95,000 miles. I checked the dipstick, the fluid is, again, dark and smelly, and that is only after about 30,000 miles since a full replacement.
Out: Factory MV.
In: MV plus some sort of conditioner additive.

2013 Mazda 6:
60,000 miles last year and again at 90,000 last month. I had the local shop do this as the machine doesn't have easily accessible dipstick and requires an OBD tool to test trans temp to check fluid level. At 60,000, the fluid was crap and smelly. At the 90,000 servicing the drained fluid looked much cleaner and red and hardly smelled used. These are basic drain/fill replacing about 3.5 quarts each time.
Out: Mazda MV factory fill.
In: Amsoil Sig Multi ATF.

cvlw
 
Originally Posted by cvlw
2015 Mazda 5 and
2013 Mazda 6

I had called the local Mazda dealer and asked a tech about the trans servicing for these models and he said to wait no more than 60,000 miles as that is about when irreconcilable damage starts to happen. I appreciated his honesty. This prompted me to get them serviced. I am convinced of the failed quality of Mazda MV fluid. Both cars, the fluid was cruddy and smelly. I am also a believer in the continual 30,000 mile servicing.

2015 Mazda:
Last year, 60,000 miles I had the dealership do this. It was a full replacement. Will do a servicing with Amsoil at the local shop at 95,000 miles. I checked the dipstick, the fluid is, again, dark and smelly, and that is only after about 30,000 miles since a full replacement.
Out: Factory MV.
In: MV plus some sort of conditioner additive.

2013 Mazda 6:
60,000 miles last year and again at 90,000 last month. I had the local shop do this as the machine doesn't have easily accessible dipstick and requires an OBD tool to test trans temp to check fluid level. At 60,000, the fluid was crap and smelly. At the 90,000 servicing the drained fluid looked much cleaner and red and hardly smelled used. These are basic drain/fill replacing about 3.5 quarts each time.
Out: Mazda MV factory fill.
In: Amsoil Sig Multi ATF.

cvlw



I understand this is a oil site where we are obsessed about crude and the various lubrication products including ATF. This obsession directly leads some of us to not only overthink our choices it also prods us to over maintain our vehicles. You changing your ATF at all makes you a minority. No UOA has shown at 60K the ATF is shot with a Mazda and feel and smell are not accurate indicators of ATF viability. If at 60K miles this is the first change it will be full of break in material. It will not be shot.

Of course a dealership will tell you to change the ATF. It only helps their bottom line.
 
Yeah, it is overdoing it.

Hopefully, I will be doing all basic maintenance on our vehicles by myself, saving money and gaining experience and satisfaction. Finding this site has been inspirational to start doing "something."

In my experience, it is really a balancing act between those who wait until a problem occurs versus doing the needful to prevent (or delay) problems. In In this case, since the manuals say to do nothing with the trans and power steering, I had to ask because it made no sense. When I asked, I figured I better do something versus nothing.

cvlw
 
1992 Lexus SC400, 244k miles - Castrol Transmax import multi vehicle. Changed due to transmission being bone dry from the previous owner only getting rid of it after the transmission wouldn't drive anymore. Drain plug and pan gasket leaked bad. Replaced the pan gasket and the plug crush washer, filled er up, and wouldn't ya know, it actually works. Mostly.
 
2007 Accord 2.4, 191k

I've owned the car for 2 years now. Did a drain 30k ago, with DW-1. With much thinking and reading, I decided to do this drain with Maxlife. Took it for a short trip, and noticed some differences. I'll wait a week or so to update on the Maxlife experiment.....
 
see my multiple drain & fills with Valvoline Import Full Synthetic ATF + Lubegard Red + Sea Foam Trans Tune:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...onda-5-speed-automatic-trans#Post5252440

thankyou2.gif


I'm blowing gallons of that stuff!
 
2013 Bmw 750IX 85000 Miles.

Flush and new sump with filter/gasket ZF 8HP70 gearbox, Second flush, 37000 miles/2.5 years since previous flush. 16 quart. ZF Lifeguard 8 out, Ravenol ATF 8HP fluid in.
Transfer case ATC35L, Second oilchange, 37000 miles/2.5 years since previous oilchange. 0.5L Ravenol Transfer Fluid DTF-1 out, 0.5L Ravenol Transfer Fluid DTF-1 in.
Front diff, first oilchange. 85000 miles/6 years. 0.65L Bmw Hypoid Axle Oil G2 out, 0.65L Ravenol DGL SAE 75W-85 GL-5 LS in.
Rear diff, first oilchange. 85000 miles/6 years 1.2L Bmw Hypoid Axle oil G1 out, 1,2L Ravenol DGL SAE 75W-85 GL-5 LS in.

Old oil on picture, from left to right: 1: Front diff. 2: Transfer case. 3: ZF Transmission. 4: Rear diff. A little dark picture. Still a little brownish colour on the diff oils and a little greenish colour on the 8HP transmission fluid but ok milage to do the OC

[Linked Image]
 
2015 Nissan Versa Note, 5-speed manual transmission, 92k miles
Out: factory fill (I know, I know, bad me!...)
In: Red Line MT85

No pics because I did the engine oil at the same time and drained them both into the same pan, but the factory fill looked surprisingly good for 92k miles. The fluid was not dark at all, and there were barely any tiny specks in it. I'm sure the Red Line can go just as long, if not longer, but I probably won't be as neglectful this time.
 
2018 Silverado Z71 @ 17k
Out: 6 quarts FF (Dex VI)
Off: AC Delco filter
On: Drain on pan
In: SPX Filtran filter
In: 6 quarts Castrol Synthetic Multi Vehicle
 
1994 Ford Explorer
Out- Valvoline Maxlife
In- Napa brand Dex III/Mercon
Did a pan drop/refill over the weekend. Took 4 qts.

It had been about 80k since the last service. Should've done it sooner, but sometimes life gets in the way.

Vehicle has 226k miles, original transmission, never had a transmission problem.
 
2017 Ford Escape, 2.0L Ecoboost
Drain & Fill

Odo at change: 90,035
Out: Unsure; there was spillage around the vent/fill cap, so the PO may have changed the fluid at least once..
Est. Hours on oil: Unknown
Miles on oil: Unknown

In: 6qts Valvoline Maxlife FS ATF (low viscosity ATF, meeting/ akin to Mercon LV), and 1 qt of Supertech Synthetic ATF DexVI / Mercon LV formula

Did two drain and fills. The fill was done on the level check hole. Both times the fluid that drained (all of ~3.5ish quarts) was black. Will do again in 20k miles.
 
1999 Toyota Sienna, 430,066 miles. Cooler line flush with Citgo DEXRON VI that I got on sale at Farm and Fleet a while back. Previous fluid was Mobil 1 ATF.

Old fluid looked surprisingly good for about 65,000 miles, it was still very red as it flowed through the plastic tubing and had only had a slight "burnt" smell. This vehicle has the optional ATF cooler due to the towing package.
 
Wife's 2016 CRV AWD

Tranny:

Out: Factory Fill HCF-2 CVT fluid

In: Castrol Transmax CVT

Seems to have removed some of the shuddering/vibration when at a stop.

Differential:

Out: Factory fill Dual Pump Fluid
In: Factory Dual pump
 
Volvo 240 sedan AW70

Out: Castrol Full Synthetic MV
In: same

Cooler line exchange, 15 quarts
Fram XG8 remote replaced

OCI: 20,000 miles
 
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1998 Honda Accord LX 4 banger, 190K, 35K OCI

Out: 2.6 quarts DW-1, Valvoline ML
In: 2.6 quarts Idemitsu DW-1 equivalent

Man this thing runs good .
Shifts like butta, pulls strong and smooth off the line and around town.
 
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