Originally Posted by 69Torino
Originally Posted by Sayonara_Sonata
ETA: On the 6 speed A\T of the 2.0T what if any aftermarket ATF would you recommend? OM states every 30K and dealer price of $400, x 3 for over 90K on the clock, that is destined as partial funding for a tranny as needed. It shifts fine now. Very solid and very up to\not quite point of being harsh. I'm careful with pedal on a short shift to second not to punch it mid shift. Even the factory ATF has changed at least once several years ago. As I approach 6 digits I'm thinking a fresh change might not be a bad idea and there's several tutorials on utube.
I also wondered about the oil weight. As I recall the earlier oil was thicker and the replacement, claimed for more MPG, was thinner.
Obviously I don't know.
I'll field this one really quick, (and thanks for the childhood story. Entertaining read!) only have a bit of time but I do have my convictions on transmission fluid for Hyundai/Kia. I've found lower viscosity fluids to work absolutely wonderfully in the 6 speed. The 6 speed is also a very reliable and stout transmission I may add. My recommendation for fluid in the 6 speed would be either Valvoline's MaxLife ATF, which is synthetic and possesses lots of anti-wear additives, or Mobil 1 LV ATF. I like a low viscosity atf in these for cold weather performance mainly, but as an added bonus a slightly lower viscosity fluid will allow the torque converter to flash or stall at a slightly higher RPM from a standing start. This is a trick I used in my Ford drag cars. In the Fords I could achieve nearly 200 RPM more stall speed at the starting line with lower viscosity synthetic ATF, and never fearing the fluid cooking or failing. Maxlife is my favorite and is approved for use in place of SP3 and SP4. Both of these fluids are approximately the same viscosity as Ford Mercon LV or Dexron 6, which is ever so slightly thinner than Kia SP4 (or properly called SP-IV-M)
My father was a M1 10w40 fan. I'll try the Mobil 1 LV ATF. About 15 years ago I was riding a watercooled wet clutch bike. I switched to M1 even though I knew the clutch wouldn't last due to the friction modifiers in this synthetic oil. Around 35K she started slipping. On air cooled I changed crankcase oil from 1-1.5K. Watercooled 4-5K and the rearend gear oil at same time.
One day whilst draining a bottle of M! into the plastic funnel I noted something unusual for me. As the last remains dripped I was spellbound as those drips hit the plastic and rolled, seeming to accelerate, to the tip of the funnel. Quite the parlour trick I thought, As well it produced a distinctive sound.
Any kid that had trash burning as a chore knows this sound by heart. In playing alien invader, lording over the local trashpile bugs, the ray beam of death most preferred was the empty gallon jug of Clorox bleach and a sturdy branch 1\2" x 2' inserted into the throat. After the trash was burning well the jug was held over the fire moving it about as a human rotisserie . Slowly in somewhat macabre fashion the big jug would contort, twixt and shrivel "losing" the gl worth of inside area.
Then the tip was held steady directly over an open flame. Black smoke quickly ensued then the remnants of the jug caught fire at that spot. A controlled burn. As it burned it also melted and small piece, still afire, fell victim to gravity. Woe to the unsuspecting bug that happened to be a victim of circumstance in the wrong place at the wrong time. Moving the stick you aimed at the population you were conquering on the ground.
It isn't in the least bit surprising for a young lad, that also thought it cool to attempt lizard electrocution by holding the tail and laying the body on a hot DC fence-charged wire, that the heat of burning petro chemicals will induce fight or flight response. In retrospect I feel I was about as accurate as a WWII Norden bombsight. Had I been throwing horseshoes I would've racked up a lot of points getting close.
The sound even seemed to come from a Sci-Fi B movie. A za-a-oohup or zoop stretched out. That was the sound I heard when the single drop of M1 hit the funnel running in true ball bearing shape. Never had I seen a drop of oil do anything save splatter on a funnel. To maintain a round shape upon striking and hold that shape spinning to the bottom was astonishing to me.
The PID you are referring to is actually called "adaptation value for lower mechanical stop of electronic wastegate actuator", and while this sounds and appears to have a lot to do with boost pressure, it actually has very little to do with the boost pressure output.
This is simply a reference point for the ECU to know when the wastegate is closed.
[Does the flap actually close or is the term close a reference to being as close as the flap is going to get hence term "mechanical close"? I thought extra boosted mills experiencing EWGA chatter were actually physically closing against the exhaust manifold; internal WG]
Being that this value is an adaptive value, it is also an average.
[Should this average only change do to wear of the actuator? Isn't this a set value in the ECU from the factory that's allowed a range +\-, V\length of rod to be within acceptable perimeter?]
If the ECU receives an errant value more than twice in a row, a DTC is set. If it continues to send a bad (low or high value) the ECU will set the map to forced limit power and/or forced limit rpm, e.g. "limp mode". This is to protect the engine from an over boost condition, which will cause a lean AFR. Cylinder number 2 is notorious for this condition, as it has a very straight line of sight from the throttle body to the intake port through the inlet manifold, and tends to get the biggest "gulp" of air.
I digress.
This value is more of a protective measure, not a tuning value. You will experience very little via butt dyno by changing the adaptive value of the EWGA. An aftermarket ECU tune "defeats" this value by substituting a standard "good value" (which is faked). I've seen plenty of cars with ECU tunes loaded and had subsequently melted the ring land off cylinder two, or in less catastrophic cases simply melted the electrode off the spark plug. I always know the ECU has a tune on it because the ROM ID is a series of letters and numbers, and on ECU's with a tune loaded it will read XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.
The 2016 and up inlet manifold was redesigned to account for better air distribution.
[That was the year Kia Theta II dropped about 24hp but only a couple of ft-lb torque. I presume the bulk was differing intake cam profile, but might the intake manifold have had effect in that drop of HP as well? I am a little surprised that the number two runner area wasn't restricted a mite to hinder volume\promote a more even balance of air. Another theory bandied about was heat from the turbo that was positioned in close proximity to number 2 cylinder. This gains traction when the boost is increased and\or owner plays track day. Especially in areas that experience temps well above 90* for several months of the year. Combined with nowhere near the airflow to relieve the increased heat load. It's not as if on the Autobahn running 130+mph for hours or five miles WFO on the Bonneville Salt Flats. Urban areas lots of concrete, blacktop, vehicles, stop-n-go, etc.]
Go forth cautiously with tuning, usually the people loading ECU tunes on these cars are not well versed in the dynamics of tuning particular cylinders individually, and end up with a lean condition in cylinder two.
[Not being a kid, at least by age, I only went for the silver instead of the gold. I'm happy with the extra power and the delivery that I've achieved and for the most part seek little if no more. The early models ran a super fat AFR which is why a little more boost work so well. That combined with wideband 02 left a nice cushion to exploit.]
The only way to know for sure is through the use of four individual pyrometers on the outlet of the head, to tune each individual cylinder's fuel delivery rate over all loads on a dynamometer.
[Right now I'm hoping to schedule a dyno run before summer just to see where I'm at now. It's an auto that has served me well and in a couple of weeks will be on its tenth year less than a tenth away from the six digit mark. I'm not seeking 300whp. I merely want a healthy bump with faster lowend response. FWD without limited slip is kind of as dancing on marbles. One must analyse the situation with a wee bit more than the old school traction bars approach.
Would you agree: The target exhaust camshaft position is a predetermined value depending on engine speed and throttle angle in the ECM & that value is preset regardless of original actuator voltage setting, so long as that voltage stays within a set acceptable +\- range? Where camshaft will respond exactly the same to an auto set at 3.7V or 4.7V. The early exhaust camshaft being hydraulically activated could care less what is happening electronically. Not so after electronic solenoid was employed.
The value is set where the actuator will move X-amount or to X-spot, depending on values received from various sensors, and this\these spots will not deviate with change of original actuator voltage setting. Whether set at 3.7, 4.2 or 4.7 once set it will follow the exact same movement\length\start\stop\timing or map as the ECU only interprets the actuator to be set properly and within range. This is why when drifting out of preferred setting the engine doesn't respond as it would when properly set. Ja, ja, ja?
By voltage moving enough away from preferred setting, though still acceptable, it is in essence out of time with the preferred setting. It's out of time because the ECU moves the rod the same regardless of acceptable setting. Otherwise, you would never notice a change in performance until limp mode kicked in. Then you also wouldn't notice a change when set properly.
