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Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5290965 12/10/19 11:54 PM
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Your telling me...I had a 95 mustang GT. Last year of the 5.0 HO (high output). 215 bhp in a 4,000lb car LOL.

It was hot stuff in its day! Ran the 1/4 in high 14s if you were an awesome driver. Mid 15s for everyone else lol.

My brother had a LT1 and a LS1 camero. 275 and 305 bhp respectively in a heavier car yet.

Times have certainly changed!

My fav car of all time remains the 88 IROC. Much snapper was had in those bad boys for sure!


2019 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 TRD
2019 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD*

Mobil 1 0w40


The specs on the back are more important than the label on the front
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5290973 12/11/19 12:09 AM
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69Torino Offline
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I ran 15 flat at 93(!). Talk about a heavy car. Soft out of the hole but flies on the big end. Car and driver published a 15.5 for the Marauders... apparently I’m a full half second better of a driver than magazine editors.


1969 Ford Torino GT 390 Auto
2003 Mercury Marauder
1992 Mercury Capri Convertible
2000 Nissan Xterra
2008 Hyundai Santa Fe
1947 Ford 2N
1978 Honda XL75
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Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5290975 12/11/19 12:10 AM
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Any updates on the car, BAJA_05?


1969 Ford Torino GT 390 Auto
2003 Mercury Marauder
1992 Mercury Capri Convertible
2000 Nissan Xterra
2008 Hyundai Santa Fe
1947 Ford 2N
1978 Honda XL75
Plus Other Stuff...
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: 69Torino] #5290992 12/11/19 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 69Torino
Originally Posted by Sayonara_Sonata


Please dig deeper and tell me more.





The PID you are referring to is actually called “adaptation value for lower mechanical stop of electronic wastegate actuator”, and while this sounds and appears to have a lot to do with boost pressure, it actually has very little to do with the boost pressure output. This is simply a reference point for the ECU to know when the wastegate is closed. Being that this value is an adaptive value, it is also an average. If the ECU receives an errant value more than twice in a row, a DTC is set. If it continues to send a bad (low or high value) the ECU will set the map to forced limit power and/or forced limit rpm, e.g. “limp mode”. This is to protect the engine from an over boost condition, which will cause a lean AFR. Cylinder number 2 is notorious for this condition, as it has a very straight line of sight from the throttle body to the intake port through the inlet manifold, and tends to get the biggest “gulp” of air.

I digress.

This value is more of a protective measure, not a tuning value. You will experience very little via butt dyno by changing the adaptive value of the EWGA. An aftermarket ECU tune “defeats” this value by substituting a standard “good value” (which is faked). I’ve seen plenty of cars with ECU tunes loaded and had subsequently melted the ring land off cylinder two, or in less catastrophic cases simply melted the electrode off the spark plug. I always know the ECU has a tune on it because the ROM ID is a series of letters and numbers, and on ECU’s with a tune loaded it will read XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX. The 2016 and up inlet manifold was redesigned to account for better air distribution. Go forth cautiously with tuning, usually the people loading ECU tunes on these cars are not well versed in the dynamics of tuning particular cylinders individually, and end up with a lean condition in cylinder two. The only way to know for sure is through the use of four individual pyrometers on the outlet of the head, to tune each individual cylinder’s fuel delivery rate over all loads on a dynamometer.

I hope this clears things up a bit. Cheers!


Thanks a lot. I respect and appreciate the time you took in explaining the finer points. A very good lesson indeed!

It clears up almost as many questions that it poses unto me. Now, if I may become indebted a wee bit more unto your services. I'm no technician, but a seat of the pants old school knuckle bustin' schmuck. I've a lot I'd like to discuss, but allow moi to cut to le chase momentarily.

Denso 20 came in the first year. 2012 saw the move to a step cooler with Denso 22. I ran 20s for 70K, they looked good and were still running fine, currently running the equivalent of 24. Still has carbon on the base with ceramic showing semi-tan Number 2 has seen around 24K 1,2 & 4 about 21K. Slight reddish hue indicates the octane boost used in 93 E0. Wasn't there running 93 E10. The round iridium plate on the bottom side of ground had a light coating of hard tan deposit that was removed easily with brass brush. The electrode tip, under a 10x loupe, showed no deposits looking almost as new. I was running .032" gap with one at .035". I changed all to slightly over .030" Sunday after inspection\cleaning.

I've no boost gauge or torque app. I don't even own a bloody smart phone. Quite the auld cracker, eh? I'm a bit as that Lynyrd Skynyrd tune though. I know a little. I know a little bit. I know a little 'bout plugs and baby I can guess the rest.

Well, not quite.

The ECU doesn't know what voltage the actuator is set to, correct? It merely assumes that a tech would set it within the proper range because while the actuator setting has little to do with boost it does play a large part in the pageant of interaction betwixt the two MAP sensors, IAT sensor, throttle position, rpm, mph, O2 sensors in the ECU orchestra. Yes?

Cause and effect. Sir Issac tells us that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. In 2011 or 12 Kia states that the max voltage is 4.45. By my calculations that represents about 7.5* flap opening. 4.2 is 12*.

Same auto, same conditions , same smooth level road with heavy dose of rolling hills pulling some steep grades. From idle, 2-3K & 3K- 4K slow gradual acceleration along with WOT.

The only difference is one day it's set at 4.2 and the other is 4.45. What differences in performance should I expect to encounter?

As well what danger lies around the 4.45V corner that I should keep me eyes peeled for? I am using a Harbor Freight cheapo multi-meter.



Last edited by Sayonara_Sonata; 12/11/19 01:02 AM.
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: Sayonara_Sonata] #5291027 12/11/19 02:14 AM
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*Driving 2017 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L GDI non - turbo : I have used all grades of octane available with no pinging or knocking . Higher octane (89 , 93) provided more "pep" to the engine (especially in hotter , humid conditions) while 87 octane results in the best over all gas mileage . If there is any pre-detonation going on I can't detect it - but again my 2.4L is a non - turbo GDI so perhaps running 87 octane is as not as much a factor as with the 2.0T turbo GDI engine ?


'17 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L GDI 5W30 PUP / Fram Ultra #9688
'10 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L 5W30 (50%) / 5W20 (50%) QSUD / Fram Ultra #9688
'07 Kia Sedona 3.8L 5W30 Castrol EP / Fram Ultra #9999
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: 69Torino] #5291037 12/11/19 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 69Torino
https://vimeo.com/378453711/recommended

Ok I have a link... we’ll try that.


Nice! You work fast. All done in 20 sec. LOL
Thanks for all the informative posts!

Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5291100 12/11/19 07:32 AM
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69Torino Offline
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Quote
Cause and effect. Sir Issac tells us that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. In 2011 or 12 Kia states that the max voltage is 4.45. By my calculations that represents about 7.5* flap opening. 4.2 is 12*.


This voltage is the value for the lower mechanical stop, in other words the wastegate flap at it’s closed position. Also, it is merely a desired adaptive value. There are two PID’s for this value in the ECU, they look identical. One is “Desired”, one is “Actual”. These must match during all conditions within a few .01V. This has tripped up many a tech, watching the desired value while adjusting the wastegate rod to no avail. Adding to the frustration is that you must cycle the ignition off and on 5 times to get the actual adaptive value, due to the fact that an adaptive value is an average over time. Desired value doesn’t change without a variable. Tech would finally come to my bay and ask me why the wastegate won’t take adjustment, and I ask him if he is monitoring the desired or actual value. I bet you can predict the answer.

Also remember, the engine must be stone cold while performing the adjustment. Explained below...

Quote
The only difference is one day it's set at 4.2 and the other is 4.45. What differences in performance should I expect to encounter?

As well what danger lies around the 4.45V corner that I should keep me eyes peeled for? I am using a Harbor Freight cheapo multi-meter.


No appreciable difference will be felt. At these voltages the wastegate is closed, one can assume. The trouble zone is about 4.8. The ECU “knows” there is something amiss and shuts the positive pressure fun down. (Forced limit power) what is amiss doesn’t matter to the ECU, only that the voltage is too high, or “out of range” as it were.

The phenomenon of voltage varying that you are experiencing lies in two antagonists. As temperature increases around the turbo, electrical resistance will increase slightly in the wiring and actuator. The ECU knows this (is programmed in as a “range of acceptable operation”. Also with heat the metals that the turbo are made from will expand. This will set the lower stop of the wastegate actuator at a different point at 900 degrees F versus 72 degrees F. The ECU also knows this. 4.2 vs 4.45 are still acceptable, though 4.45V is getting perilously close to angering the ECU. The operating range for most all inputs and outputs for power train control are 0-5V, not 0-12V as many people think. The ECU doesn’t much care what is wrong more so that “something” is wrong, and will turn to a forced limited power condition. 4.8V makes her mad.

Quote
Harbor Freight cheapo multimeter


I will not speak ill of a cheap meter, though when testing with a meter it is only for validation to myself. I care less about what I see than what the ECU sees. I monitor all inputs and outputs on the Kia scanning software with the KDS, simply because even if I have a reading I know to be truthful, if the ECU sees a different reading it doesn’t matter what my meter says.

The moral? The only way to know for sure that your values are correct through the eyes of the car’s ECU are to “see what it sees”. The ECU is not reading your meter, it is reading it’s inputs/outputs. Scanning software that allows you to view this PID will be more accurate than reading a meter. There exists resistance in every electrical connection, including meter lead to pin, meter lead to meter, wire to meter probe, etc. When you are dealing with .01V, things add up and small things matter, whether it be a Fluke DVOM or Harbor Freight DVOM.

Off to work I go, take care.

Last edited by 69Torino; 12/11/19 07:37 AM.

1969 Ford Torino GT 390 Auto
2003 Mercury Marauder
1992 Mercury Capri Convertible
2000 Nissan Xterra
2008 Hyundai Santa Fe
1947 Ford 2N
1978 Honda XL75
Plus Other Stuff...
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: OilUzer] #5291106 12/11/19 07:41 AM
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69Torino Offline
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Originally Posted by OilUzer

Thanks for all the informative posts!

No problem, glad to share.


1969 Ford Torino GT 390 Auto
2003 Mercury Marauder
1992 Mercury Capri Convertible
2000 Nissan Xterra
2008 Hyundai Santa Fe
1947 Ford 2N
1978 Honda XL75
Plus Other Stuff...
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5291386 12/11/19 11:53 AM
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Sayonara_Sonata Offline
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Originally Posted by 69Torino
Quote
Cause and effect. Sir Issac tells us that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. In 2011 or 12 Kia states that the max voltage is 4.45. By my calculations that represents about 7.5* flap opening. 4.2 is 12*.


This voltage is the value for the lower mechanical stop, in other words the wastegate flap at it’s closed position. Also, it is merely a desired adaptive value. There are two PID’s for this value in the ECU, they look identical. One is “Desired”, one is “Actual”. These must match during all conditions within a few .01V. This has tripped up many a tech, watching the desired value while adjusting the wastegate rod to no avail. Adding to the frustration is that you must cycle the ignition off and on 5 times to get the actual adaptive value, due to the fact that an adaptive value is an average over time. Desired value doesn’t change without a variable. Tech would finally come to my bay and ask me why the wastegate won’t take adjustment, and I ask him if he is monitoring the desired or actual value. I bet you can predict the answer.

Also remember, the engine must be stone cold while performing the adjustment. Explained below...

Quote
The only difference is one day it's set at 4.2 and the other is 4.45. What differences in performance should I expect to encounter?

As well what danger lies around the 4.45V corner that I should keep me eyes peeled for? I am using a Harbor Freight cheapo multi-meter.


No appreciable difference will be felt. At these voltages the wastegate is closed, one can assume. The trouble zone is about 4.8. The ECU “knows” there is something amiss and shuts the positive pressure fun down. (Forced limit power) what is amiss doesn’t matter to the ECU, only that the voltage is too high, or “out of range” as it were.

The phenomenon of voltage varying that you are experiencing lies in two antagonists. As temperature increases around the turbo, electrical resistance will increase slightly in the wiring and actuator. The ECU knows this (is programmed in as a “range of acceptable operation”. Also with heat the metals that the turbo are made from will expand. This will set the lower stop of the wastegate actuator at a different point at 900 degrees F versus 72 degrees F. The ECU also knows this. 4.2 vs 4.45 are still acceptable, though 4.45V is getting perilously close to angering the ECU. The operating range for most all inputs and outputs for power train control are 0-5V, not 0-12V as many people think. The ECU doesn’t much care what is wrong more so that “something” is wrong, and will turn to a forced limited power condition. 4.8V makes her mad.

Quote
Harbor Freight cheapo multimeter


I will not speak ill of a cheap meter, though when testing with a meter it is only for validation to myself. I care less about what I see than what the ECU sees. I monitor all inputs and outputs on the Kia scanning software with the KDS, simply because even if I have a reading I know to be truthful, if the ECU sees a different reading it doesn’t matter what my meter says.

The moral? The only way to know for sure that your values are correct through the eyes of the car’s ECU are to “see what it sees”. The ECU is not reading your meter, it is reading it’s inputs/outputs. Scanning software that allows you to view this PID will be more accurate than reading a meter. There exists resistance in every electrical connection, including meter lead to pin, meter lead to meter, wire to meter probe, etc. When you are dealing with .01V, things add up and small things matter, whether it be a Fluke DVOM or Harbor Freight DVOM.

Off to work I go, take care.


Vely interesting and thanks time and again for sharing well more than a few snippets of "the greatest hits version" cobbled together. Your detail is most refreshing as is your proficiency in providing explanation in layman terms after serving up the technical aspect.

You posted earlier of adaptive values. Early on an aftermarket intake was offered. When tested on a dyno it was claimed to have shown around a 20 horse addition. As time in the saddle wore on it seems these same adaptive values reared their ugly head and the intake was now good for only 2-5hp or thereabouts.

As well some have added other components with great success in HP gains only to see those dwindle over time. Claiming once again to becoming victim to the adaptive value villain. I have somewhat experienced this myself in that at times it appears that I must constantly flog the throttle to maintain peak performance. I read folks talking about short term\long term trim and whatnot being partially to blame.

If that's the case why do I find the peak power never fails under an extreme load as pulling a grade under hard throttle? Is it merely the advanced throttle position when compared to the map sensors if that at all?


Last edited by Sayonara_Sonata; 12/11/19 11:55 AM.
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5291445 12/11/19 12:38 PM
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69Torino Offline
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You posted earlier of adaptive values. Early on an aftermarket intake was offered. When tested on a dyno it was claimed to have shown around a 20 horse addition. As time in the saddle wore on it seems these same adaptive values reared their ugly head and the intake was now good for only 2-5hp or thereabouts.


Oh my. Adaptive values. I could actually go on for days about adaptive or “learned” values. They used to be so simple but now they have taken over. In the early days learned values were used for simple tasks such as adjusting transmission main line pressure and shift rpm points to help transmissions live longer under varying usage patterns. Now they can even be used to change the way the car feels in sport mode vs normal mode, by altering things such as APS/TPS correlation to make the car feel faster off the line.

In other words, the accelerator position sensor (potentiometer) and the throttle position sensor (another potentiometer) can now move in a non linear fashion. 10% throttle input can now transmit to 20% throttle output in sport mode, for an illusion of more part throttle engine output. Tricky huh?

I told you that to tell you this. ECU’s are what we referred to in the Chrysler/Dodge dealerships as “NGC ECU’s. This stands for Next Generation Controller. A blanket label to differentiate an ECU capable of varying engine output parameters. What this means for you, if I may oversimplify, is that the ECU can vary and modify the engine output to a set value. This set value is calculated torque output, or load percentage depending on what the manufacturer elects to call it.

I cut my teeth in a Mopar house, when all the Mopar SRT offerings were hot and Ralph Gilles was playing daddy warbucks producing whatever cool high horsepower cars he wanted. (When SRT was actually a separate entity) I learned quite a bit about these smarter ECU’s in that time. To sum it up, you need a knowledgeable ECU tuner to properly modify all PIDS to work in concert with your physical modifications (parts you bolt on or modify) It can be done, albeit at an ever increasing price as less and less folks are smart enough to outsmart the box controlling output. This is all I have time for at the moment, I’m actujust sitting down for lunch. If I missed something I’ll be back soon. Enjoy the day!


1969 Ford Torino GT 390 Auto
2003 Mercury Marauder
1992 Mercury Capri Convertible
2000 Nissan Xterra
2008 Hyundai Santa Fe
1947 Ford 2N
1978 Honda XL75
Plus Other Stuff...
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5291467 12/11/19 12:52 PM
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Quote
I read folks talking about short term\long term trim and whatnot being partially to blame.


Real quick, fuel trims are an input to the ECU, used for adjusting and compensating A/FR’s. Let’s say you yanked a vacuum line off with the engine running. The fuel trim will now go positive, because the ECU must now add fuel to overcome the lean condition and keep the engine running. Also the check engine light will likely illuminate to report an abnormal condition, and that the car will no longer meet federal emission standards. Long trim is a reference point average and can more so be “blamed” for reigning in power output. It’s a factor but not entirely the culprit.

Fuel trims are no “Lone Wolf”, and are only partly responsible for keeping Engine output at a set known value.


1969 Ford Torino GT 390 Auto
2003 Mercury Marauder
1992 Mercury Capri Convertible
2000 Nissan Xterra
2008 Hyundai Santa Fe
1947 Ford 2N
1978 Honda XL75
Plus Other Stuff...
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5292226 12/12/19 09:52 AM
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A wealth of information that I've come to look forward unto when I fire up the old 'puter.

With the information you have provided in this thread I could easily spend a full day analyzing all of your responses and formulating new. even if some where similar. inquiries.
The potentiometer of me youth was the volume switch of an AM radio. Searching for the perfect level, as I laid in bed, listening to music from far away stations as the radio waves bounced from ionosphere to earth for hundreds of miles at night.

As a child in the '60's I was treated with three, yes count 'em three, network channels. Upon commercial break I jumped up grabbing the tuner dial firmly twisting quickly to another channel. I was scolded by my father that I was in essence, "tearing up the TV" with my utter disregard for the fragile electronic component. Then the day came when the Tele went on the blink, no doubt my fault for such dealt abuse, and a repairman was summoned.

Girded with leather belt containing pliers, screwdrivers, volt\ohmmeter with electrical tape and spooled solder dangling it was quite the site to behold for a young lad. Most mystifying was when he broke the big gun, the soldering iron. None of dad's mamsy-pamsy tube swapping, in blatant cheapskate fashion, to avoid the dreaded service call where one must pay for him showing up on the porch. What a novel idea.

No, this man totin' all these tools of troubleshooting and repair was a pro. Now, I was going to see the doctor operate with scalpel in hand and perhaps a wisp of smoke.after tinning the soldering iron. But today a new tool emerged. A can of pressurized tuner cleaner complete with long skinny tube applicator allowing this elixir of electronics to be applied, under pressure mind you, with pinpoint accuracy. What a marvel! First the Beatles and now this,

What's next an 8-track stereo sound system for your automobile? Please, it's rhetorical let's not have our heads lingering in the clouds of fantasy and pipe-dreams.

This guy doesn't even shake the can first. He's spraying the tuner to kingdom come. As the scent of petroleum distillates wafted through the room, to my eager nostrils, I could sense some serious [censored] was about to hit the fan. Eyes agog peripheral vision stands down; as if affixed with blinders I summon all powers of concentration. Tunnel vision achieved with no sense of any other stimuli [audio, video or subliminal] within me surroundings I have elevated my consciousness of this moment to that of a Zen master.

Meaty hand grasps the tuner knob, with the grip of a grizzly on spawning salmon, and to my horror spins the rotary dial so violently that surely gears must strip. Not once nor twice mind you, but what seemed an eternity as I stand there mouth wide open mesmerized. Boy, is dad gonna be [censored]! I could be in trouble just for being too close to the carnage.

Little doubt in me mind that collateral damage would include my selection of a suitable switch from the front yard for administering capital punishment from which there was no appeal or pardon. I was setup like a bowlin' pin as a patsy for this guy the whole time and never saw it coming. He was diabolical and probably advanced to midway pitchman for a traveling carnival.

And then gently rotating the dial a clear view of all three channels emerges one after the other. For what I had my intuitive butt gnawed on this schmuck was paid and handsomely at that. It wasn't fair and I knew it though I didn't walk away unhanded. Dad was wrong and I was right. Finally i had him over the barrel. Mostly a moral victory for sure that on rare occasion, down the pike, I could leverage as a valid point of argument.
-----

Ah yes the ever popular "Sport Mode". Faux power at its finest. It has to be more powerful because I only give 'er a bit of gas and man she flies. I never understood why they didn't continue to apply throttle. Is this the subconscious mind at work or the salesman planting the seed of propaganda? Reminiscent of aftermarket, fly by wire,of course, accelerator kits that can be "dialed in" as to how much pedal movement vs how much throttle response.

You certainly are correct. It is becoming harder for the gearhead to tinker successfully in defeating the parameters of power as supplied by the factory for gains on a shoestring budget. Where it seems everyone wishes to up boost, for good reason, few speak of torque management. Somewhat as the masses praise HP gains whilst a few poke around eyeballin' extra torque predominately as their goal.

At least the internet provides tons of info though a lot merely parroted by some that aren't as knowledgeable as they'd like others to believe. If I may be so bold to suggest that a good percentage of grenaded mills was the result of poorly planned\executed hop-up attempts by folks that meant well. but weren't seeped in the basics. Time and again I've read someone post that their engine finally submitted to this unknown gremlin and they must now strip all of the performance parts off so they will qualify for warranty.

It's the shoplifting\insurance\accident fraud syndrome where people attempt to justify their action by claiming no one personally is damaged and these large corporation will absorb the losses without consequence to consumers as a whole.

That along with ability of some to implement piggyback chips, reflashed ECU and basic bolt-ons are what killed the turbo in the Sonata line. First the turbo is downsized after 4-5 years then it's pulled. I understand late 2020 there's a 2.5 turbo engine as the new and improved Theta. I'll wager that nut harder to crack for additional non-oem gains.

Ford at one time sold performance chips for their vehicles at about a C-note a pop. And stood behind warranty. Not 10ys 10K miles.

On the fuel trim I was always suspicious of piggyback chips. As I understand the trim has a default petrol mix in case of the main\first O2 sensor catastrophe. That AFR is rich, to accommodate all conditions, yet the percentage should be based on the factory parameters. What happens when say you've modded your engine from 274hp to 315hp depending on the O2 sensor to maintain proper mix for the roughly 15% more hp?

Will the long term fuel trim intervene\supply values just prior to O2 termination or will the ECU rely strictly on factory set AFR that's richer than normal?

Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5292272 12/12/19 11:00 AM
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Sayonara_Sonata Offline
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ETA: On the 6 speed A\T of the 2.0T what if any aftermarket ATF would you recommend? OM states every 30K and dealer price of $400, x 3 for over 90K on the clock, that is destined as partial funding for a tranny as needed. It shifts fine now. Very solid and very up to\not quite point of being harsh. I'm careful with pedal on a short shift to second not to punch it mid shift. Even the factory ATF has changed at least once several years ago. As I approach 6 digits I'm thinking a fresh change might not be a bad idea and there's several tutorials on utube.

I also wondered about the oil weight. As I recall the earlier oil was thicker and the replacement, claimed for more MPG, was thinner.

Obviously I don't know ...
----
It did dawn on me that even with O2 failure and 15% more hp than factory that one might feather the pedal so to speak safely until securing a new O2 sensor.

Last edited by Sayonara_Sonata; 12/12/19 11:03 AM.
Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5292291 12/12/19 11:19 AM
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UPDATE on the 2011 Sonata with 3 dropped Cylinders. There gonna trade it in since it still does run and drives before the end of the year. Neighbor did not specify what there going to be looking at for another vehicle but said -- it WONT be a Hyundai!!!!


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2005 Subaru Baja AWD 2.5L N/A 5spd.
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Re: 2011 Hyundai Sonata -- 3 cylinders dropped!!! [Re: BAJA_05] #5292349 12/12/19 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BAJA_05
UPDATE on the 2011 Sonata with 3 dropped Cylinders. There gonna trade it in since it still does run and drives before the end of the year. Neighbor did not specify what there going to be looking at for another vehicle but said -- it WONT be a Hyundai!!!!

Right on. Thanks for the update! I was curious of the outcome.


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