Back then the spec was new and the dealer didn't have any. They used the wrong oil the previous change.
I did forgot to check the Audi dealer nearby. My research shows that Castrol was making the 508.
The car burned off a lot of the new Motul in a month - almost a litre. luckily I had a bottle of 1 0w40FS that was going in my generator, so I used that for top up.
Burn off stopped and the car ran spectacular and quiet for a years time until I turned in the lease. Magic.
How did this old thread get revitalised? Why, Jeff why!?
I posted on this thread for information. Just seems everyone has "opinions" which I respect but no real evidence of this or that. People like to nit pick on BITOG so bad it gets old, but still is a good place to get info. I purchased a new VAG product that requires the 508/509 oil. I was looking to see what oil was available in the USA. Motul was an oil that pops up. It actually carries the approval and states on the bottle that it "resists burn off" yet your car went through a Liter in a month? So either something was wrong with your car, or that oil is complete garbage. Then I found my local VAG dealer sells VW Oil 508/509 which is made by Mobil and can be had for under $8.50 a qt. So I asked what is the difference, and why would someone spend 2x's the money for an oil that met the same spec? No one had a reason. Now from hindsight you would think Motul, that is known to be an Ester based product (generally) might be worth the extra $$ since the VW version might be Group 3+ again, I don't know just looking through hindsight. So that would justify the price, just in the quality of the base stocks used. Yet your car burned through a Liter in a month?? Makes no sense to me.
Additionally, using a 502 oil in a VAG vehicle that requires 508 is a huge no no. Even the Tuner shops like APR, and Unironic recommend the 508 for said vehicles even when tuned. There are different components internally designed specifically for the 508, Oil Pump, oil/air separator, rings, etc. So much so, it is not recommended in the manual, or from the tuner shops.
Its all confusing to me, I usually just use whatever oil is spec'd but I began going down the rabbit hole around 2006 when I was then driving a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo MR that I tuned to 400bhp and was tracked regularly. On that said vehicle, OEM fill was M1 10w30 and on track with mods, my oil temps would get pretty high, I don't remember exactly due to time passed, but I do remember that I switched oil to Redline 5w30 just to try it out. My thinking was a 30w oil that is on the heavy side, sheer stable and Ester based why not try it. The Evo community thought I was stupid for doing it. Well, on track with an instructor he even noticed my oil temps dropped 10-12C on average in triple digit temps. He asked me, Did you install a larger oil cooler or something? I said, no just switched oil to the Redline. He just told me, KEEP USING IT. So I did. Unfortunately. Redline does not make a 0w20 low SAPS oil, so I didn't know what to use in my new VAG vehicle. So I have just been using the OEM fluid that I mentioned. I do notice oil temps on this car run warmer than my Evo, and just was trying to justify the cost of Motul assuming its Ester based like Redline is. In your reply you said you lost a Liter of Motul a month. So that sounds like a lose to me, not a win. Do we even know Motul 508 is Ester based? Or is it Group 3+ like everything else. I know people are going to say, "if it meets the specs" I get it, but all I am saying is, if you can find an oil that has group 4 or higher base stocks, and you want that in your car vs group 3+ and you are willing to pay more for said oil? Why not? It helped in my Evo's case. That was many years ago though.
So does anyone even really know which 508 oil out there is a true synthetic oil, or are only highly refined group 3 all we get these days? Do we even know if Amsoil 508 is group 3 or not? I am sure someone here will know, I just want to see the proof.
Jeff
