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Non scientific oil test. #5288764 12/08/19 05:33 PM
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tblt44 Offline OP
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Ok
I have 5 oils I'm doing a non scientific flow test on at freezer temp. A few degrees below zero.
I live in florida so well below what I see.
Mobil 1 hm 5w 30
Castrol 0w 40 euro
Valvoline hm 5w 30 red bottle
Penzoil ultra 5w 30
Supertech syn 10w 30
I will try finish test tomorrow. Oil is in water bottles now in freezer all day and it looks like they all flow about the same to me when turning bottles over.
I'm thinking of switching my hm GM chevy 5.3 engines with 180k and 190k to valvoline hm 10w 30.
No I dont have any yet but using my mower oil supertech 10w 30 as a base line for 10w 30 weight in the cold.
Why , I'm thinking it will shear less then 5w 30.
I tow 4500 about once a month.
Towing in 3rd gear running 3k for hours at a time.
In D it's in and out of gears too much

Last edited by tblt44; 12/08/19 05:59 PM.

2003 Avalanche Z71 5.3
2006 Tahoe 5.3
1989 Yamaha moto 4 250
2004 Key Largo w/70 Yamaha 2 stroke
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5288833 12/08/19 07:12 PM
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Linctex Offline
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Originally Posted by tblt44

I'm thinking of switching my hm GM chevy 5.3 engines with 180k and 190k to valvoline hm 10w-30.
No I dont have any yet but using my mower oil supertech 10w 30 as a base line for 10w 30 weight in the cold.
I tow 4500 about once a month... Towing in 3rd gear running 3k for hours at a time.


Yes. All of the above is a good plan.

You don't need to do the freezer test - it won't tell you anything.


"The evidence demands a verdict".
(Re:VOA)"it's nearly impossible to actually know the particular additives that are in there at what concentrations."
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5288843 12/08/19 07:18 PM
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Triple_Se7en Offline
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Castrol Euro 0w40 is what I'd use regularly, if I were in your shoes.


19' Hyundai Santa Fe 2.4 GDI - Valv Adv. 5w30 / OEM Oil Filter / 6oz Liqui-Moly
20' Kia Soul X-Line 2.0 Multi-port / Pennzoil Gold 5W30 / OEM filter
04' Colorado 3.5 Castrol Edge 0W40 / K&N filter
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5288860 12/08/19 07:40 PM
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tblt44 Offline OP
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I was thinking Castrol or mobil 0w 40.
Or 10W 30.
Just worried about the higher zinc in these euro oils
I also want quick flow at start up down to 32 F


2003 Avalanche Z71 5.3
2006 Tahoe 5.3
1989 Yamaha moto 4 250
2004 Key Largo w/70 Yamaha 2 stroke
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5288868 12/08/19 07:48 PM
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Mad_Hatter Offline
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Why are you freezing oil when you're in FL? You can not extrapolate anything from your freezer test as it pertains to high temperature, high shear (your towing). The VM's used in the two states are different animals. Cold properties should be a non starter for you. With your towing and ambient temps I would look for a 10w30 or Xw40 with a relatively high HTHS and robust AW pkg (unless you're concerned with FE in which case you're best served by sticking with a 0 or 5w30). And since not all VM's are created equal and you have no way of knowing what the quality of VM's are in a particular lube, just go with what you know.

Last edited by Mad_Hatter; 12/08/19 07:51 PM.
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5288870 12/08/19 07:52 PM
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kschachn Offline
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Your test will indeed demonstrate flow. However, it will only demonstrate the flow out of the oil containers themselves. You will not replicate the conditions inside of an internal combustion engine under cold weather conditions. Inside of an engine, the only flow that is necessary is for the oil to flow to the oil pump pick up tube. For that, the tests under SAE J300 that result in the winter rating of the oil are a far more accurate representation of real-world starting conditions under cold temperatures. Pick and winter rating that is appropriate for your expected starting conditions.

And Euro oils are not necessarily “high” in zinc. But even if they are, it is only a problem if you are burning excessive amounts of oil. Are you?


1994 BMW 530i, 251K
1996 Honda Accord, 280K
1999 Toyota Sienna, 430K
2000 Toyota ECHO, 284K
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5288871 12/08/19 07:53 PM
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kschachn Offline
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I didn’t even notice you are in Florida. Considering that, you can use any winter rated oil that suits your fancy. “Flow” is utterly irrelevant even in northern Florida.


1994 BMW 530i, 251K
1996 Honda Accord, 280K
1999 Toyota Sienna, 430K
2000 Toyota ECHO, 284K
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: Mad_Hatter] #5288872 12/08/19 07:53 PM
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tblt44 Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Why are you freezing oil when you're in FL? You can not extrapolate anything from your freezer test as it pertains to high temperature, high shear (your towing). The VM's used in the two states are different animals. Cold properties should be a non starter for you. With your towing and ambient temps I would look for a 10w30 or Xw40 with a relatively high HTHS and robust AW pkg (unless you're concerned with FE in which case you're best served by sticking with a 0 or 5w30). And since not all VM's are created equal and you have no way of knowing what the quality of VM's are in a particular lube, just go with what you know.

Well it's getting close to winter and if were lucky may see a few nights under 32, just want to see how it flows on those days.


2003 Avalanche Z71 5.3
2006 Tahoe 5.3
1989 Yamaha moto 4 250
2004 Key Largo w/70 Yamaha 2 stroke
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5288874 12/08/19 07:55 PM
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dave1251 Offline
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Changing from ST 10W30 to Valvoline non synthetic Maxlife 10W30 will not gain you much if any performance.


make the inside of your engine oil cap white.
don't use.
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: kschachn] #5288876 12/08/19 07:58 PM
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tblt44 Offline OP
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Originally Posted by kschachn
Your test will indeed demonstrate flow. However, it will only demonstrate the flow out of the oil containers themselves. You will not replicate the conditions inside of an internal combustion engine under cold weather conditions. Inside of an engine, the only flow that is necessary is for the oil to flow to the oil pump pick up tube. For that, the tests under SAE J300 that result in the winter rating of the oil are a far more accurate representation of real-world starting conditions under cold temperatures. Pick and winter rating that is appropriate for your expected starting conditions.

And Euro oils are not necessarily “high” in zinc. But even if they are, it is only a problem if you are burning excessive amounts of oil. Are you?

Not burning any oil


2003 Avalanche Z71 5.3
2006 Tahoe 5.3
1989 Yamaha moto 4 250
2004 Key Largo w/70 Yamaha 2 stroke
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: dave1251] #5288877 12/08/19 07:59 PM
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tblt44 Offline OP
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Originally Posted by dave1251
Changing from ST 10W30 to Valvoline non synthetic Maxlife 10W30 will not gain you much if any performance.

Supertech is my mower oil.
Never used it in the truck, just using it as a baseline for cold flow.


2003 Avalanche Z71 5.3
2006 Tahoe 5.3
1989 Yamaha moto 4 250
2004 Key Largo w/70 Yamaha 2 stroke
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5288919 12/08/19 09:10 PM
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Mad_Hatter Offline
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Originally Posted by tblt44
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Why are you freezing oil when you're in FL? You can not extrapolate anything from your freezer test as it pertains to high temperature, high shear (your towing). The VM's used in the two states are different animals. Cold properties should be a non starter for you. With your towing and ambient temps I would look for a 10w30 or Xw40 with a relatively high HTHS and robust AW pkg (unless you're concerned with FE in which case you're best served by sticking with a 0 or 5w30). And since not all VM's are created equal and you have no way of knowing what the quality of VM's are in a particular lube, just go with what you know.

Well it's getting close to winter and if were lucky may see a few nights under 32, just want to see how it flows on those days.

It flows good enough for your engine, trust me. (that's what the assigned W grade tells you). Even the "thicker" 10w pumpability number is waaay below the lowest temperature you'll ever see in FL. You should be more concerned HTHS given your ambients and towing. Those two things combined can really tax (shear) a lubes oil film.

[Linked Image]

Last edited by Mad_Hatter; 12/08/19 09:12 PM.
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5289025 12/09/19 01:16 AM
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Experts say as long as oil is pumpable, all is good and flow rates e.g. Freezer tests and/or utube cold flow tests basically don't prove anything ...

However I always wonder if you have 2 oils that are "pumpable" (i.e. both meet the W rating), wouldn't the oil that is more fluid flow easier through the tiny holes/paths in the engine.
Yes you can pump it but once it's up there it has to flow down or up through holes, etc. Wouldn't a more fluid oil get there faster?

Anyways this has been on my list of things to research and iirc in the old days they used the flow rate but then it was changed to ccs and mrv ...

Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: tblt44] #5289036 12/09/19 02:27 AM
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Silk Offline
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Why does everyone do a freezer test ? The oil is only at low temps for a few minutes, the rest of the time it's running hot. I'd like to see someone do a 100c test, the actual operating temp of the oil. I doubt if you could tell the difference of any oil visually at that temp, but it's more relevant to what's happening in an engine.


1987 BMW R65 - Penrite VTwin 20-50
2005 Nissan Expert - 5W-30 Castrol Edge
1996 Volvo T5 - Penrite HPR15 - 15W-60. Ryco syntec filter.
Re: Non scientific oil test. [Re: OilUzer] #5289040 12/09/19 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by OilUzer
Experts say as long as oil is pumpable, all is good and flow rates e.g. Freezer tests and/or utube cold flow tests basically don't prove anything ...

However I always wonder if you have 2 oils that are "pumpable" (i.e. both meet the W rating), wouldn't the oil that is more fluid flow easier through the tiny holes/paths in the engine.
Yes you can pump it but once it's up there it has to flow down or up through holes, etc. Wouldn't a more fluid oil get there faster?

Anyways this has been on my list of things to research and iirc in the old days they used the flow rate but then it was changed to ccs and mrv ...

It doesn't stay cold as molasses as it contacts moving parts and travels through all the oil passageways. The oil begins to thin out and will flow a lot better than when the pump picked it up. And once that heated oil returns to the sump it makes pumping increasingly easier. As long as you use the appropriate W grade for your climate, you can rest assured that your engine is getting sufficiently lubricated during those first few seconds at startup. (the engine builder has made sure of this by spec'ing the oil you should be using in your owners manual.. and the oil mfgs confirm this by rigorous testing)

Last edited by Mad_Hatter; 12/09/19 03:02 AM.
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