I guess the bottom line is it's mostly aimed at DI engines, and not retroactive to your LS1. Carry on and have fun with that boat. Thanks for your post. It was very interesting.
Thoughts on this industry change to 5w30
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Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
I guess the bottom line is it's mostly aimed at DI engines, and not retroactive to your LS1. Carry on and have fun with that boat. Thanks for your post. It was very interesting.
+1
I guess the bottom line is it's mostly aimed at DI engines, and not retroactive to your LS1. Carry on and have fun with that boat. Thanks for your post. It was very interesting.
+1
It used to be that lower vis oils were recommended when an engine oil cooler was installed, and higher vis oils were recommended when they were not, most Mercruiser and Volvo engines did not use engine oil coolers, but some inboard boats did.
I think its possible for water temps to be low compared to automotive use and oil temps to be higher. If we have a season this year with all that is going on I had planned to take an IR temp gun reading off my oil filter after running on plane for a while. I've been using either a straight weight (in the distant past) or the Mercruiser/Quicksilver 25/40 with good results.
The lower temp thermostats used in both inboards and outboards are used mainly because these open or raw water cooling systems are not pressurized. So if your engine water temps start to approach 190-200 on the gauge (which is normal in an automotive pressurized system) you can start to have boiling in hotter parts of the system (like near the exhaust ports in the cyl heads). Salt vs fresh water, 140 stats were specified for salt, 160 for fresh, I have used a 160 in salt for years and when I took my engine apart 3 years ago to replace blown head gaskets and replaced the old cyl heads, there was no salt crystallization anywhere. OMCs and Volvos of my engines era only came with 160s there was no option of a 145. So this may happen in Fla or the gulf coast but not in NY (Long Island) salt water in my experience at least.
I think its possible for water temps to be low compared to automotive use and oil temps to be higher. If we have a season this year with all that is going on I had planned to take an IR temp gun reading off my oil filter after running on plane for a while. I've been using either a straight weight (in the distant past) or the Mercruiser/Quicksilver 25/40 with good results.
The lower temp thermostats used in both inboards and outboards are used mainly because these open or raw water cooling systems are not pressurized. So if your engine water temps start to approach 190-200 on the gauge (which is normal in an automotive pressurized system) you can start to have boiling in hotter parts of the system (like near the exhaust ports in the cyl heads). Salt vs fresh water, 140 stats were specified for salt, 160 for fresh, I have used a 160 in salt for years and when I took my engine apart 3 years ago to replace blown head gaskets and replaced the old cyl heads, there was no salt crystallization anywhere. OMCs and Volvos of my engines era only came with 160s there was no option of a 145. So this may happen in Fla or the gulf coast but not in NY (Long Island) salt water in my experience at least.
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