SuperTech 5W30 synthetic will work just as well as anything else off the shelf.
Confused Over Oil Specs For Ford Raptor 3.5tt
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Here is the deal. Motor oil is a complicated mixture, there are lots of details in just keeping the additives in solution during storage and use.
If you mix or add things, you may affect the ability of the oil to keep an additive in suspension let alone compatible and proper ratio.
If an essential additive drops out you can have increased wear. You may not see this increased wear for many miles and years.
There is little upside to the additive, and lots of downsides.
Just use Ford oil, it is a bargain. Or use any of the main syn that meet the specification. Even Walmart Syn if it is published meeting the specifications.
Rod
If you mix or add things, you may affect the ability of the oil to keep an additive in suspension let alone compatible and proper ratio.
If an essential additive drops out you can have increased wear. You may not see this increased wear for many miles and years.
There is little upside to the additive, and lots of downsides.
Just use Ford oil, it is a bargain. Or use any of the main syn that meet the specification. Even Walmart Syn if it is published meeting the specifications.
Rod
Originally Posted by JLTD
M1 0w-40? Would help with the super cold MT starts, and the (light) 40 grade would offer good protection for your hard working eb.
IMO that would be a very good choice as well.
M1 0w-40? Would help with the super cold MT starts, and the (light) 40 grade would offer good protection for your hard working eb.
IMO that would be a very good choice as well.
I cant answer your oil question but I must ask. Where is that neat old town at?
Any dex1 gen2, but I would prolly use the Castrol edge since it's been performing well w your assault school trucks. Nice truck and looks like a lot of fun you're having.
Cheapest SN+ 5w30 money can buy and skip the snake oil. Change at 5k in that mill...they are tough on lube
Use a quality synthetic of the correct viscosity and change it frequently. Extended drain intervals are not helpful to Ecoboost engines. Direct injection contaminates the oil with unburned fuel, some of which evaporate, leaving behind some raw fuel plus heavier fuel components that are not lubricants. Wear causing soot contamination is considerably higher on DI engines. The only way to deal with this is the oil change.
Note: more frequent oil changes help prevent rapid Ecoboost timing chain wear and cam phaser problems.
I suggest changing at the 5000 mile mark, as a maximum. Additives are not necessary or helpful. Today's best synthetic oils are very well engineered products.
Note: more frequent oil changes help prevent rapid Ecoboost timing chain wear and cam phaser problems.
I suggest changing at the 5000 mile mark, as a maximum. Additives are not necessary or helpful. Today's best synthetic oils are very well engineered products.
Originally Posted by Cujet
Use a quality synthetic of the correct viscosity and change it frequently. Extended drain intervals are not helpful to Ecoboost engines. Direct injection contaminates the oil with unburned fuel, some of which evaporate, leaving behind some raw fuel plus heavier fuel components that are not lubricants. Wear causing soot contamination is considerably higher on DI engines. The only way to deal with this is the oil change.
Note: more frequent oil changes help prevent rapid Ecoboost timing chain wear and cam phaser problems.
I suggest changing at the 5000 mile mark, as a maximum. Additives are not necessary or helpful. Today's best synthetic oils are very well engineered products.
Well said. Sage advice here.
We use Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 in the EcoBoost cop cars at work on a 5k interval with Wix filters. If it were in my garage I would be using Valvoline Modern Engine 5w-30 and a Motorcraft Filter.
This is just personal preference, as Rotella Gas Truck, Valvoline Modern Engine, Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 are all fine choices.
Use a quality synthetic of the correct viscosity and change it frequently. Extended drain intervals are not helpful to Ecoboost engines. Direct injection contaminates the oil with unburned fuel, some of which evaporate, leaving behind some raw fuel plus heavier fuel components that are not lubricants. Wear causing soot contamination is considerably higher on DI engines. The only way to deal with this is the oil change.
Note: more frequent oil changes help prevent rapid Ecoboost timing chain wear and cam phaser problems.
I suggest changing at the 5000 mile mark, as a maximum. Additives are not necessary or helpful. Today's best synthetic oils are very well engineered products.
Well said. Sage advice here.
We use Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 in the EcoBoost cop cars at work on a 5k interval with Wix filters. If it were in my garage I would be using Valvoline Modern Engine 5w-30 and a Motorcraft Filter.
This is just personal preference, as Rotella Gas Truck, Valvoline Modern Engine, Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 are all fine choices.
As the saying goes: "opinions are like a__holes, everyone has one."
Maybe this will help you think about what you are doing vs just getting some opinion (although, "this is just my opinion...I could be wrong")
The Ford Ecoboost is hard on oil. One known problem is fuel dilution (in the oil), though 2019 Raptor version may mitigate that with some redesigns that occurred for some Ecoboosts in 2017 or 2018. But I am surprised the Ford 946-B1 isn't the spec (as opposed to the 946-A1), given that it is a 2019.
Using Ford syn-blend 5w30 is better than nothing. I guess. If all you want is for the truck to last thru the 60k mile warranty, using that oil, Ford will not be able deny warranty coverage based on type of oil. To me, though, it's like putting the cheapest tire you can find on your truck.
Pennzoil Platinum(s) are THIN. Maybe in Montana, that is a good thing, but not in Texas. Shell makes/owns Pennzoil, and Quaker State, and the Rotella brand. I don't think there is much difference between the Rotella Gas Truck, the Quaker State Ultimate Durability, and Platinum, except the initial viscosity. I'm still trying to learn about this stuff myself, but from what I've seen, all these lose their initial viscosity and end up being 5w20 oils before long, in an engine as harsh on oil as the EcoBoost. Rotella 5w30 MultiVehicle is different, I'm sure does not carry the Ford spec, but IMHO might be the best of the Shell 5w30's. I'll try to attach a chart of various Shell oils originally posted by user named Snagglefoot, I believe. (So, thank him, not me). But it doesn't tell the whole story about how/why MultiVehicle is different from the others.
Castrol Magnatec is almost as cheap as the Motorcraft at Walmart, and their Edge oil isn't all that much more (for someone who can afford a Raptor). Both have fans on this website, especially the Magnatec in an EcoBoost, though supposedly Edge is the better Castrol. But I don't know how well they "stay in grade" but probably a bit better than Platinum.
Mobil1 and certain Valvolines are probably better than the Motorcraft, but I don't see huge advantages over Castrol and possibly NO advantage over the MultiVehicle Rotella.
Amsoil Signature 5w30 looks very impressive on paper, and about the only knock against it is the higher price...or maybe that you can't get it at Walmart. Of course, Amsoil says you can go 25,000 miles on it, so maybe following that advice is "unadvisable," but it doesn't mean it isn't better than the oils above. WHY? Better base stock, stronger dose of additives. Now, is running Amsoil Signature for 10,000 miles better than running Motorcraft for 5,000 miles? Not sure. Technically Ford could complain, but I think any complaint by them would be "fake." But I wouldn't run ANY of the oils above for 10,000, except maybe the Amsoil, or maybe use the Rotella MultiVehicle-vehicle for 6000-7000.
Now, lots of folks recommend going outside the 5w30 spec. I'm not saying that would be bad, but that opens the discussion up to all sorts of variables. Plus there are "phoo-phoo" brands like Redline, Motul, Royal Purple, Renewable Lubricants, and others, but the Amsoil Signature might be the "most normal" of all these.
And use a good filter...like the Fram ULTRA or Wix XP (or a few others).
So, if you read through all this, congratulations, you've just exposed yourself to another a__hole's opinion.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/11/full-66495-38686-2143aae2_51e1_49fd_9beb_972737fc5603.png "[Linked Image]")
Maybe this will help you think about what you are doing vs just getting some opinion (although, "this is just my opinion...I could be wrong")
The Ford Ecoboost is hard on oil. One known problem is fuel dilution (in the oil), though 2019 Raptor version may mitigate that with some redesigns that occurred for some Ecoboosts in 2017 or 2018. But I am surprised the Ford 946-B1 isn't the spec (as opposed to the 946-A1), given that it is a 2019.
Using Ford syn-blend 5w30 is better than nothing. I guess. If all you want is for the truck to last thru the 60k mile warranty, using that oil, Ford will not be able deny warranty coverage based on type of oil. To me, though, it's like putting the cheapest tire you can find on your truck.
Pennzoil Platinum(s) are THIN. Maybe in Montana, that is a good thing, but not in Texas. Shell makes/owns Pennzoil, and Quaker State, and the Rotella brand. I don't think there is much difference between the Rotella Gas Truck, the Quaker State Ultimate Durability, and Platinum, except the initial viscosity. I'm still trying to learn about this stuff myself, but from what I've seen, all these lose their initial viscosity and end up being 5w20 oils before long, in an engine as harsh on oil as the EcoBoost. Rotella 5w30 MultiVehicle is different, I'm sure does not carry the Ford spec, but IMHO might be the best of the Shell 5w30's. I'll try to attach a chart of various Shell oils originally posted by user named Snagglefoot, I believe. (So, thank him, not me). But it doesn't tell the whole story about how/why MultiVehicle is different from the others.
Castrol Magnatec is almost as cheap as the Motorcraft at Walmart, and their Edge oil isn't all that much more (for someone who can afford a Raptor). Both have fans on this website, especially the Magnatec in an EcoBoost, though supposedly Edge is the better Castrol. But I don't know how well they "stay in grade" but probably a bit better than Platinum.
Mobil1 and certain Valvolines are probably better than the Motorcraft, but I don't see huge advantages over Castrol and possibly NO advantage over the MultiVehicle Rotella.
Amsoil Signature 5w30 looks very impressive on paper, and about the only knock against it is the higher price...or maybe that you can't get it at Walmart. Of course, Amsoil says you can go 25,000 miles on it, so maybe following that advice is "unadvisable," but it doesn't mean it isn't better than the oils above. WHY? Better base stock, stronger dose of additives. Now, is running Amsoil Signature for 10,000 miles better than running Motorcraft for 5,000 miles? Not sure. Technically Ford could complain, but I think any complaint by them would be "fake." But I wouldn't run ANY of the oils above for 10,000, except maybe the Amsoil, or maybe use the Rotella MultiVehicle-vehicle for 6000-7000.
Now, lots of folks recommend going outside the 5w30 spec. I'm not saying that would be bad, but that opens the discussion up to all sorts of variables. Plus there are "phoo-phoo" brands like Redline, Motul, Royal Purple, Renewable Lubricants, and others, but the Amsoil Signature might be the "most normal" of all these.
And use a good filter...like the Fram ULTRA or Wix XP (or a few others).
So, if you read through all this, congratulations, you've just exposed yourself to another a__hole's opinion.
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Originally Posted by 69Torino
Originally Posted by Cujet
Use a quality synthetic of the correct viscosity and change it frequently. Extended drain intervals are not helpful to Ecoboost engines. Direct injection contaminates the oil with unburned fuel, some of which evaporate, leaving behind some raw fuel plus heavier fuel components that are not lubricants. Wear causing soot contamination is considerably higher on DI engines. The only way to deal with this is the oil change.
Note: more frequent oil changes help prevent rapid Ecoboost timing chain wear and cam phaser problems.
I suggest changing at the 5000 mile mark, as a maximum. Additives are not necessary or helpful. Today's best synthetic oils are very well engineered products.
Well said. Sage advice here.
We use Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 in the EcoBoost cop cars at work on a 5k interval with Wix filters. If it were in my garage I would be using Valvoline Modern Engine 5w-30 and a Motorcraft Filter.
This is just personal preference, as Rotella Gas Truck, Valvoline Modern Engine, Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 are all fine choices.
The Eco's in our fleet get the WIX and the cheapest bulk 5W30 it's not even a group III synthetic it's a cheapest bid no name brand "synthetic blend". Engine failure, oil consumption, and ect is not a thing heard around here.
Originally Posted by Cujet
Use a quality synthetic of the correct viscosity and change it frequently. Extended drain intervals are not helpful to Ecoboost engines. Direct injection contaminates the oil with unburned fuel, some of which evaporate, leaving behind some raw fuel plus heavier fuel components that are not lubricants. Wear causing soot contamination is considerably higher on DI engines. The only way to deal with this is the oil change.
Note: more frequent oil changes help prevent rapid Ecoboost timing chain wear and cam phaser problems.
I suggest changing at the 5000 mile mark, as a maximum. Additives are not necessary or helpful. Today's best synthetic oils are very well engineered products.
Well said. Sage advice here.
We use Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 in the EcoBoost cop cars at work on a 5k interval with Wix filters. If it were in my garage I would be using Valvoline Modern Engine 5w-30 and a Motorcraft Filter.
This is just personal preference, as Rotella Gas Truck, Valvoline Modern Engine, Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1 are all fine choices.
The Eco's in our fleet get the WIX and the cheapest bulk 5W30 it's not even a group III synthetic it's a cheapest bid no name brand "synthetic blend". Engine failure, oil consumption, and ect is not a thing heard around here.
Originally Posted by Cujet
Use a quality synthetic of the correct viscosity and change it frequently. Extended drain intervals are not helpful to Ecoboost engines. Direct injection contaminates the oil with unburned fuel, some of which evaporate, leaving behind some raw fuel plus heavier fuel components that are not lubricants. Wear causing soot contamination is considerably higher on DI engines. The only way to deal with this is the oil change.
Note: more frequent oil changes help prevent rapid Ecoboost timing chain wear and cam phaser problems.
I suggest changing at the 5000 mile mark, as a maximum. Additives are not necessary or helpful. Today's best synthetic oils are very well engineered products.
We have stayed with Ford's oil due to travelling & trying to get oil changes around the 5k & the easiest way to do that is just find a Ford dealer and stop in for a couple hours.
Once or twice have gone almost 6k, but that's outside of the norm & due to not finding a good Ford dealership thT could get us in.
Use a quality synthetic of the correct viscosity and change it frequently. Extended drain intervals are not helpful to Ecoboost engines. Direct injection contaminates the oil with unburned fuel, some of which evaporate, leaving behind some raw fuel plus heavier fuel components that are not lubricants. Wear causing soot contamination is considerably higher on DI engines. The only way to deal with this is the oil change.
Note: more frequent oil changes help prevent rapid Ecoboost timing chain wear and cam phaser problems.
I suggest changing at the 5000 mile mark, as a maximum. Additives are not necessary or helpful. Today's best synthetic oils are very well engineered products.
We have stayed with Ford's oil due to travelling & trying to get oil changes around the 5k & the easiest way to do that is just find a Ford dealer and stop in for a couple hours.
Once or twice have gone almost 6k, but that's outside of the norm & due to not finding a good Ford dealership thT could get us in.
Been doing more research on Fords owners website & they had a 3rd printing (our copy is 1st printing) on capacities and this is what it's now saying for oil.
Originally Posted by slug_bug
Run a full synthetic SN+ because Turbo. Change every 5 - 7K because DI. Stock up on Shell Rotella Gas/Truck if you can find it at AutoZone. It's down to $2 per quart and there's a $2 per quart Shell rebate. Up to $40 per household.
The 2nd generation 3.5 including the Raptor uses both Direct and Port injection...
Run a full synthetic SN+ because Turbo. Change every 5 - 7K because DI. Stock up on Shell Rotella Gas/Truck if you can find it at AutoZone. It's down to $2 per quart and there's a $2 per quart Shell rebate. Up to $40 per household.
The 2nd generation 3.5 including the Raptor uses both Direct and Port injection...
Castrol Edge 5w30. You're doing mostly highway so 5-7.5k oci's. No extra additives required. Use a good brand name filter. Enjoy!
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Love these trucksðŸ‘...Ž
If It was mine, I'd use Schaeffers oil
Just me, enjoy the truck!
If It was mine, I'd use Schaeffers oil
Just me, enjoy the truck!
Originally Posted by Shrike9
Been doing more research on Fords owners website & they had a 3rd printing (our copy is 1st printing) on capacities and this is what it's now saying for oil.
Use whatever SN+ Synthetic 5w30 you like best. They will all perform about the same. Out of your preferred choices I would probably use the Castrol Edge 5w30 SN+
Mobil 1 5w30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 are both good choices as well. All three of these also meet the ACEA A5/B5 spec in the 5w30 grade.
Skip the can of BG-MOA it's a waste of money. All three of the above mentioned lubes have a nice dose of Moly in the additive package already. A modern SN+ oil especially the ones mentioned above will gain nothing from adding the extra BG MOS2 additive. As mentioned by others keep your OCI @ 5k miles or so since the truck is T-GDI.
Nice truck!
Been doing more research on Fords owners website & they had a 3rd printing (our copy is 1st printing) on capacities and this is what it's now saying for oil.
Use whatever SN+ Synthetic 5w30 you like best. They will all perform about the same. Out of your preferred choices I would probably use the Castrol Edge 5w30 SN+
Mobil 1 5w30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 are both good choices as well. All three of these also meet the ACEA A5/B5 spec in the 5w30 grade.
Skip the can of BG-MOA it's a waste of money. All three of the above mentioned lubes have a nice dose of Moly in the additive package already. A modern SN+ oil especially the ones mentioned above will gain nothing from adding the extra BG MOS2 additive. As mentioned by others keep your OCI @ 5k miles or so since the truck is T-GDI.
Nice truck!
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Since you like to drive it hard from time to time, might consider going with a 5W-30 that would be more resistant to shear. Maybe one of the 5W-30 oils that are marketed towards Euro makes for higher-speed driving, with an HTHS value of 3.5 or so. Like Mobil 1 ESP. And you mentioned wanting an oil that is very good quality, which the M1-ESP is.
Originally Posted by john_pifer
Since you like to drive it hard from time to time, might consider going with a 5W-30 that would be more resistant to shear. Maybe one of the 5W-30 oils that are marketed towards Euro makes for higher-speed driving, with an HTHS value of 3.5 or so. Like Mobil 1 ESP. And you mentioned wanting an oil that is very good quality, which the M1-ESP is.
+1 I'm liking Mobil 1 ESP more and more. It is currently in one of my vehicles and should be in all three by the summer.
Since you like to drive it hard from time to time, might consider going with a 5W-30 that would be more resistant to shear. Maybe one of the 5W-30 oils that are marketed towards Euro makes for higher-speed driving, with an HTHS value of 3.5 or so. Like Mobil 1 ESP. And you mentioned wanting an oil that is very good quality, which the M1-ESP is.
+1 I'm liking Mobil 1 ESP more and more. It is currently in one of my vehicles and should be in all three by the summer.
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