Ingersoll Rand air hammers

I have a Craftsman that I paid about $200 for. Use it a lot. Has never failed to loosen a lug nut or bolt, very easy to hold and use.I have had it for several years.
 
CP 717 and Astro 4980 are the biggest hitters and use a 0.498" shank, if you are thinking about ball joints, rusted in torsion bars and other rusted parts one of these is the only way to go.
The light duty stuff like the IR 114 with a 0.401" shank don't have enough power to tackle much of anything but the lightest jobs (the CP 714 is an exception, it has plenty of power for a 0.401).
I have the 717 and it does the tough jobs with ease and will last for many years, you get what you pay for. The Astro 4980 is a good buy and comparable to the 717.
 
That's their standard hammer and is a good price but I would spend a little more for the vibration reduced model 122MAX.

[Linked Image from ingersollrandproducts.com]
 
I have the 118 MAX, it works quite well for what I needed it for. I prefer the long stroke which is why I went with that one.
 
I have used lots of brands air hammers and the snap on ph3015B is the strongest one I have used. I use IR impact guns for 1/2" and 3/8". The snap on ones are garbage IMO. Snap on air hammers and air ratchets are the strongest though IMO
 
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The Snap-on PH3050B is probably the hardest hitting 0.401" air hammer......But it's stupid expensive!

The CP714 is a good 0.401" gun & a lot cheaper than a Snap-on. I had one years ago before buying a Snap-on PH3050.

I don't live in the rust belt, So I can't justify or have a need for a 0.498" air hammer & bit selection is not as good......Like extra long bits.

My personal air hammer arsonal consist of.....
Snap-on PH3050
Snap-on PH3050B
Ingersoll Rand 121

The IR121 is a light duty gun I use for pressing CV axles & wheel studs out. Pretty much lives in my cart with a Point Bit. I bet it hits harder than a IR114!!

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
 
My post part number was wrong the 3050B is what I was referring to. It's a necessity where I live.
 
I wish I didn't live in the rust belt sometimes, but having worked in rust areas all my life I don't know anything else. Smoke wrenches, big hammers (inc air), good cobalt and solid carbide drill bits, chisels, taps and dies, welders, breaker bars, etc are all tools used daily. Junk tools are exposed for what they are real fast regardless of brand name.
I guess one benefit is you learn to get broken bolts and rusted parts out without damage, its very rare I need to retap or use an insert unless the threads got pulled in aluminum or something similar.
 
Another air hammer in a similar price range as the 114 GCQ is a Chicago Pneumatic CP7150. I have one and it has moved everything I have needed it to. It does not have a quick change retainer but I picked one up for $20 or so and now it does.
 
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I'm certainly not envious of you guys that deal with that everyday.....I can just imagine the mess it makes as well!

About the only broken bolts I have to extract are GM LSx & Ford Mod exhaust manifold bolts.....Weld a nut to the stud & work it right out. Dodge 4.7L/5.7L can usually be spun out with a Awl by hand.

But that's probably why older vehicles are fixed when they have major mechanical problems....Especially trucks. I'm sure people aren't so inclined to spend money on a rust bucket?

So do y'all adjust your billed hours to reflect all this extra work?
 
Say hello to my little friend. Thanks for all the input everyone. This thread will be searchable on the internet forever. I purchased the 114GQC, mostly boiling down to the amount I wanted to spend. Much appreciated.

Snag

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Originally Posted by clinebarger
I'm certainly not envious of you guys that deal with that everyday.....I can just imagine the mess it makes as well!

About the only broken bolts I have to extract are GM LSx & Ford Mod exhaust manifold bolts.....Weld a nut to the stud & work it right out. Dodge 4.7L/5.7L can usually be spun out with a Awl by hand.

But that's probably why older vehicles are fixed when they have major mechanical problems....Especially trucks. I'm sure people aren't so inclined to spend money on a rust bucket?

So do y'all adjust your billed hours to reflect all this extra work?


For sure none of this is warranty work so I tell them right up front that rusted parts, broken bolts and fasteners are billed per hour. You know what fun is when you have to cut the front rotors off a F150 with a sawzall then split them with an air chisel because they wont come off any other way.
 
I used my little buddy, the 114 GQC to knock down the knuckles off two struts on my 2005 Taurus. Wow. Totally effortless and got the knuckles off each struct in less than 30 seconds. Perfect tool to do struts. I used a small anvil attachment. I hooked into the compressor of a commercial shop but don’t know how many CFM or what the pressure was, unfortunately. Very happy with this tool, though.
 
I have a Campbell Hausfeld air hammer from the 1980s that my dad gave me it works fine for what I have needed it for. The most I’ve ever used it for is getting off stuck brake rotors and drums because someone didn’t put anti seize behind them. The advantages of living in the south lol.
 
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