Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

Toyota Echo, 2002 automatic sedan. 299,850 miles this morning. I haven't stuck with one brand or type of oil. About half the miles have been some combination of synthetic or synthetic blend. The other half the miles have been conventional oil. I haven't found that one oil worked any better than another. I have 300k miles and the car runs like a top. Oil changed faithfully at 5000 miles.

Honda Pilot, 2009 EXL, 190,000 miles last weekend. Same story as the Echo. No brand or oil type loyalty. Oil changed every 5000 miles.

My only recommendation is to just change the oil. I have used what the manual says, and everything has been fine.
 
2006 Honda Accord 220K Miles changed at every 3k miles with Castrol Edge Titanium/Mobil 1 EP/Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. Out of all it had the least oil consumption with Castrol Edge Titanium. It had oil consumption problems, however, it still runs like a champ. Original engine and catalytic converter. I then had sold it because of personal reasons. That car had original timing chain, VVT actuator, and water pump. Does not leak ANY oil. Never had to change the valve cover gasket nor the oil pan gasket. I could have gone to 300k miles with that car no problems. It was a solid car with 5 speed MT.
 
My Hyundai Sonata is a six cylinder with 151.000 miles. Every 5000 ol and filter change. Used Amsoil and Mobil 1. Factory Hyundai filters.
 
My 2010 Chrysler Sebring Touring with the 24L engine has 193,990 as of right now. Still runs great and looks good. No engine or tranny work at all, just regular preventative maintenance. Although I did replace lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and strut assemblies. Averaging right around 30mpg.

L8R,
Matt
 
2007 Tacoma PreRunner Access Cab V6. 223,000 miles now.

So far I've had to replace:

- U-joints (a single bearing went bad, causing a squeak while in reverse, so I replaced all 3 while I had the driveshaft out). Easy, 1-afternoon job.

- All wheel bearings

- Idler pulley

- center console latch

- overhead temp/compass display failed. Re-soldered by a friend (common problem with these)

That's it!

All fluids have been changed at least once. I've done a complete trans fluid swap twice, coolant once, brake fluid twice, diff twice, P/S I just suck out what's in the reservoir periodically and put in fresh. Oil/filter every 10K with M1-EP and Fram Ultra.

CEL has never come on.
 
2003 f-150 4x4 ,4.6l -284,000 miles-have used motorcraft 5w20 and fl-820 filters until 250,000 then went to citgo 5w30 and primeguard filters-driven daily. It still has factory transmission fluid ,front and rear differential oil,power steering fluid,anti freeze and freon in it.
 
I think I'll need to modify the thread. Other than the new to me '16 F150, every vehicle I've owned since 1992 is past 150K.
I still have the following... Oh and by the way, I use Pennzoil for all but one of these. All filled with 5W-30

Current fleet:
'16 F-150 - just bought used at 44K
'05 Mustang - 375K (no burning, no leaking)(bought new)
'04 Sebring - 180K (burning 1qt/4K)(bought new)

Dead fleet:
'05 Freestyle - 275K (Trans failed) (no burning, no leaking)(used at 70K)
'00 Durango - 275K (totaled, rear ended) (no burning, no leaking)(bought new)
'92 LeBaron - 350K (Trans failed) (Engine was burning 1qt/1K miles near the end)(bought new)
 
EchoThat:
In response to your post.

I think it's the timely oil change (Every 5K) that is the key to long life. I did the same on all my cars. Only the Mitsubishi engine LeBaron failed me with really burning oil at the end. Stupid seals. I'm using the high mileage Pennzoil now in hopes to extend seal life.
 
2002 Honda Civic - 206K miles. Bought at 119K. Older son's college car. During our ownership, ST semi-synthetic 5W-20 and filters, with an occasional Fram filter if ST was out of stock. Currently parked awaiting transmission repairs.

2003 Nissan Sentra SE-R - 189K miles. Bought at 98K. Younger son's college car. During our ownership, ST semi-synthetic 5W-30 and filters, with an occasional Fram filter if ST was out of stock. Traded it in on the following:

2009 GMC Sierra Z71 - 165K miles. Bought at 152K. Basic family truck, sometimes DD. During my ownership, Castrol Magnatec Synthetic 5W-30 and AC Delco filters. Will use a NAPA Platinum filter at next 2 oil changes since I got them on sale.

Almost there, 2005 Jeep LJ - 146K miles. Bought new 15 years ago. Sometimes DD. During my ownership, multiple oils - Castrol GTX, Chevron, Havoline, ST semi-synthetic, STP semi-synthetic, all 10W-30. Multiple filters - Fram, ST, Purolator, STP, AC Delco. That 4.0L has been happy with all of them.

Oil changes on all of these have been averaging 6K miles interval.
 
It's not quite at 150K, my parent's Sienna is at the 144K mark and it saw a hodge-podge of oils: Chevron Supreme, PYB, M1, PP, Idemitsu, Castrol Edge/Magnatec and VML/VSP. I have D1G1-level PUP and a FU in it now. It runs as good as ever.

My personal car, which was in the family has 166K on it. It's using oil, a common Corolla/Prius/Scion malady. I have in there right now Kendall GT-1 Endurance and a OEM Toyota filter. I've added a quart, it drinks 1qt/3000 miles, which I did improve from 1qt/2000 miles all with a series of MMO/Neutra 131/BG EPR treatments and soaks. The car saw mostly M1 and PP, with some QSGB bulk and PYB. I'm running VPBR next with a FU to try cleaning up the ringlands and oil return holes.

I've gotten a Lexus LS400 to hit nearly 300K with the same hodge-podge of oils. An old Nissan the parents had was kinda spoiled when it was younger with M1 and Red Line since I got a pretty good deal on the latter and flirted with 7K oil drains using a Wix 51368. Later on, I decided to switch the van to MaxLife, Chevron Supreme or ST/QS. It was at 245K when it was unloaded.

The other cars I've nursed for friends were unloaded early for the next big thing, I'm a believer in keeping a car until it's too expensive to keep running. One was a Subaru with a drinking problem. That replacement(same car but in blue, his mom's old car as she bought an Ascent - they both bought Foresters on the same day) isn't drinking as much. It's doing fine on Idemitsu 0W-20, I might switch it over to 5W-30 D1G2 or 0W-30 Euro-spec oil when the powertrain warranty is up. His brother's Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC Cologne V6 is still quiet, no death rattle. He changes the oil with ST synthetic and filter at 3K.
 
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04 Hyundai Sonata GLS- 185000 miles
Original 2.7 V6 (no major work) M1 10w30 with HM at around 120k. OCI of 5k or 2x year intervals, Hyundai filter every other change
Original 4sp auto transmission Idemitsu ATF Type HK. Drain and fill every other oil change
97 Volvo 850 GLT Wagon- 357000 miles
Original 2.4 I5 w/low-pressure turbo. 1x head gasket replaced. M1 10w30 with HM at around 160k. OCI of 5K or 2x year. Mann filter every other change.
Original ME4.4 Bosch transmission (Valvoline Maxlife since 120k) Drain and fill every other oil change
82 F150 XLS Flareside- Unknown mileage, likely ~235k.
Rebuilt 351w at (guessing) 200k. (Rotella T5 15w40) OCI 5k
NP435 manual (Mobilube HD 80w90) Stock CA Emissions.

Longtime lurker-learner. 1st post.
 
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Originally Posted by bbhero
281k miles on my Nissan Altima VQ...

Bought it with only 39,990 miles on it...

19 different oils have been run it in.

It has seen everything from Pennzoil Ultra to Mobil Special and everything in between...

Quietest oils have been in no particular order... Mobil Super, Pennzoil Ultra, Havoline Pro DS, Cam2 Dexos1 Gen 2 synavex, and Havoline high mileage and Quaker State high mileage 5w30....

Still runs really good... Lots of highway cruising which is easy on the motor and transmission.... Original owner CVT fluid in the car still... No issues.




288k miles on the car now... Still rolling along pretty good.

Napa aka Valvoline oil made for Napa full synthetic 5w30 in the car right now.
 
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Daily Driver 2008 Cadillac CTS 3.6DI currently at 168k miles. Mobil 1 5w/30 since new. Changed to Mobil 1 5w/30 high Mileage at the 100k mile mark. Run the OCI between 5000-6000 and only repairs ever done to the motor was the timing chains under warranty around 55k miles. To date the motor runs strong, no leaks and burns 1/2 qt at the most during an OCI.

2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 4x4 3.6L. Currently has 112k miles, completely trouble free, no leaks no oil useage. Mobil 1 5w/30 since new and went to Mobil 1 5w/30 High mileage at around 80k miles. Run the oil according to the OLM which is an average of 6500-7500 miles.

2006 GMC Sierra Denali 6.0L AWD. Currently 169k miles. No leaks, burns no oil, runs great. Mobil 1 5w/30 since new and went to high mileage Mobil 1 5w/30 around the 100k mile mark. OCI by the OLM which is between 5000-6000 miles.

Mobil 1 has been good to me lol
 
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2011 Camry 2.5/6MT, 197k last I looked, was TGMO for 60k, then Mobil 1 for another 70k or so, lately it's Supertech 5W30 synthetic.

2010 Tundra 4.6/6AT, 155k, bought used so no idea on what was used for 75k, last 75k has been Mobil 1.

1999 Camry 2.2/4AT, 217k, bought used so no idea what was used for 140k, last 75k has been Supertech conventional.

Honorable mentions:

2001 Civic 1.7/5MT, 173k on whatever dealer bulk.

2004 Jetta 1.9/5MT, 314k on various Euro oils. Car was chipped and turbo'd at 255k and driven all the harder afterwards--and was sold in perfect running order. Going from 100hp to 140hp was quite the thrill!

On that list, only the '99 Camry uses a quart or so over 5k, and that might be due to leaks.
 
My 2008 Hyundai Accent 5sp manual GS with 170k miles

Rusting on the drivers rear wheel arch. A little underneath. The wheel arch had dealer installed rubber striping along the arch edge.

Burns less oil now than it ever has. Using M1 5w30 HM. About a quart every 7500 OCI. I add a half quart at a time.

Replaced the struts and front wheel bearings two years ago. Now the ball joints are shot. Ordered new lower arms, ball joints, stabilizer links and tie rod ends. $100 from Detroit Axle with 10 year guarantee.

Putting that all in over the weekend.

I would love to find a low mile one for a replacement.
 
2011 Kia Forte 2.0 188k. I doubt it will go much further. Up to 170k used 1 qt between changes with Pennzoil conventional 5w20. Now dropping oil like crazy and motor sounds like it will blow up. Have since used whatever was left over. Owner ran it 3 qts low. Still original transmission never been serviced.
 
Originally Posted by DynBlin
04 Hyundai Sonata GLS- 185000 miles
Original 2.7 V6 (no major work) M1 10w30 with HM at around 120k. OCI of 5k or 2x year intervals, Hyundai filter every other change
Original 4sp auto transmission Idemitsu ATF Type HK. Drain and fill every other oil change
97 Volvo 850 GLT Wagon- 357000 miles
Original 2.4 I5 w/low-pressure turbo. 1x head gasket replaced. M1 10w30 with HM at around 160k. OCI of 5K or 2x year. Mann filter every other change.
Original ME4.4 Bosch transmission (Valvoline Maxlife since 120k) Drain and fill every other oil change
82 F150 XLS Flareside- Unknown mileage, likely ~235k.
Rebuilt 351w at (guessing) 200k. (Rotella T5 15w40) OCI 5k
NP435 manual (Mobilube HD 80w90) Stock CA Emissions.

Longtime lurker-learner. 1st post.


Pretty cool first post, very detailed. Happy Thanksgiving.
 
Everything I've owned back to a 1971 Chevelle I've driven past 150,000 miles. Always done my own oil changes and maintenance.

Currently:
2008 F150 5.4L 165,000 miles. Bought new and driven mostly highway miles with loads and a lot of light trailer hauling. Always Amsoil Signature and Ea filters due to the fact that I think the 5.4L valve train cam phasers can be sensitive to oil impurities causing valve train noise and nasty repairs (though frankly I think its not changing the oil per recommendation causing that problem). Runs as quiet as the day I bought it. Just the usual maintenance and a tensioner pulley, radiator fan clutch and power steering line (F150s appear to have paper thin power steering lines as in all my years and cars I've never had one literally rust away).

Other cars of note are:
A 2002 Saab 9-5 2.4L that went 260,000 miles that I just got rid of as it was actually getting unnerving how well it still ran but that's a lot of miles for an Aisin 5 sp auto. Fair amount of repairs in its life but the engine and transmission proved to be bullet proof. Mostly Amsoil euro oil and Wix filters.

1993 Jeep Cherokee 2.5L than finally rusted away at 275,000 miles. I ran every kind of cheap oil and filter in it and it never complained or burned oil. Someone on BITOG once said you could probably put castor oil in those cast iron AMC design engines and it wouldn't matter. Probably true.

As others have said, I think it's mostly about doing maintenance with regular oil changes that gets you longevity though nothing keeps a badly designed/manufactured engine from failing.
 
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