Replace brake clips with each pad change

[Donald]

Many/most cars have a stainless steel clip that fits into the caliper bracket and the brake ears ride along the clip not the caliper bracket. Many brake pads come with new ones. But not all.

Do people replace these clips each time they change pads.

The Akebono brake pads I got did not come with new clips.

I could clean up the old clips but I had to use a small hammer to pound the old pads out of the caliper bracket do obviously the ears were not sliding in the clips very well.

This is on Forester.

 

[JTK]

If the pad kit didn't come with them, I remove and clean them up with scotch brite and brake/parts cleaner. If they won't clean up or are damaged, you don't have a choice.

You have to wire wheel the metal the clips seat on as well for proper fit.

 

[NormanBuntz]

I prefer the brands that include the clips, like Bosch.

 

[krismoriah72]

You had to pound out the old pads because almost every pad i have loaded needs filed.

If your new pads do not slide freely in the clips the pad ears need filed.

Clips- NAPA used to sell just the clips.. if they still fit well and dont look too marred their job is just to have a surface for the pad ears to slide..

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by krismoriah72
You had to pound out the old pads because almost every pad i have loaded needs filed.

If your new pads do not slide freely in the clips the pad ears need filed.

Clips- NAPA used to sell just the clips.. if they still fit well and dont look too marred their job is just to have a surface for the pad ears to slide..





These were original pads. One would hope they would fit perfectly and not need filing.

 

[wings&wheels]

As a rule, I replace all caliper or drum hardware such as clips, pins, springs, etc. You don't do brakes that often and if some component looks OK now w/ some cleaning up, what will it look like in another ~40K miles? Small $ considering the function and how often you do brakes.

 

[kschachn]

Generally pad ears get stuck in the carrier because the carrier is rusting at the contact points and this puts pressure on the pads through the clips. Make sure the carrier is clean where the clips sit.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Generally pad ears get stuck in the carrier because the carrier is rusting at the contact points and this puts pressure on the pads through the clips. Make sure the carrier is clean where the clips sit.


Yeah this. I'm about 50/50 with clips replacement. If they look great I don't rock the boat.

I do grind my new pad ears "just the right amount". No noise, no problems, great pedal feel.

 

[doitmyself]

Good topic, Donald. Based on experience and two recent brake jobs, my answer is "it depends" - both on the parts situation and the mentality of the person.

On my Patriot front brake replacement with EBC Ultimax2 (without new clips), I purchased a hardware kit from NAPA ($10) and out of laziness opted to use the new clips and pin bushings (already spent much time cleaning other components). The old components could have been cleaned up and reused, but the NAPA ones seemed high quality and fit perfect (too easy). I no longer fret about a few $$ on a quality, long lasting repair.

My son recently replaced his Kia Soul front brakes with Wagner Thermoquiets and the included clips were wrong - they didn't come close to fitting. He spent time cleaning up the OEM hardware and reusing them. Two pad ears required filing to get good fit.

If the original hardware parts are in excellent condition, I see no reason to not reuse them. Age might affect rubber parts, prompting change.

My rustbelt tidbit of wisdom: the caliper surface under the hardware clips needs to be filed clean - wire brushing sometimes just burnishes the expanded rust and doesn't eliminate pad ear binding. Coat those surfaces with M77 or PasteLub prior to inserting the clips.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by doitmyself
My rustbelt tidbit of wisdom: the caliper surface under the hardware clips needs to be filed clean - wire brushing sometimes just burnishes the expanded rust and doesn't eliminate pad ear binding. Coat those surfaces with M77 or PasteLub prior to inserting the clips.

Yes, that's what I attempted to say above. This carrier is from my BMW where I cleaned out the groove and painted it (because I had time). You are correct about it needing more than just a wire brush, on these I used an old screwdriver and hammer to knock it out.

 

[mk378]

As @kschachn and the others said you need to remove the clips and clear out any rust behind them which will push the clips in and bind the pad. If they are mangled up, replace. But they're not something that needs replacement every time.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

I ordered a hardware kit with my last set of brake pads, but ended up only using the bushings and grease boots. The clips themselves were a lot more flimsy than the originals, and the old ones weren't damaged so I reused them.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Generally pad ears get stuck in the carrier because the carrier is rusting at the contact points and this puts pressure on the pads through the clips. Make sure the carrier is clean where the clips sit.


I started applying caliper grease on the bare metal before I snap the clips in place to hopefully quell the corrosion under there. Picked that up from Eric O from SMA. I don't have the stones to use the purple premium caliper grease goo like he does on the caliper pins, even though I've owned a jar of that for about 12yrs.

 

[Propflux01]

My Akebono's came with all new hardware. My old hardware looked good, but I replaced them anyway.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by doitmyself
Good topic, Donald. Based on experience and two recent brake jobs, my answer is "it depends" - both on the parts situation and the mentality of the person.

On my Patriot front brake replacement with EBC Ultimax2 (without new clips), I purchased a hardware kit from NAPA ($10) and out of laziness opted to use the new clips and pin bushings (already spent much time cleaning other components). The old components could have been cleaned up and reused, but the NAPA ones seemed high quality and fit perfect (too easy). I no longer fret about a few $$ on a quality, long lasting repair.

My son recently replaced his Kia Soul front brakes with Wagner Thermoquiets and the included clips were wrong - they didn't come close to fitting. He spent time cleaning up the OEM hardware and reusing them. Two pad ears required filing to get good fit.

If the original hardware parts are in excellent condition, I see no reason to not reuse them. Age might affect rubber parts, prompting change.

My rustbelt tidbit of wisdom: the caliper surface under the hardware clips needs to be filed clean - wire brushing sometimes just burnishes the expanded rust and doesn't eliminate pad ear binding. Coat those surfaces with M77 or PasteLub prior to inserting the clips.


Are the lubes mentioned any different or better than Sil Glide.

 

[spk2000]

I have done both and generally do reuse them. If damaged then get new. Most of the time I get them out intact and very good to reuse.

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted by Donald
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Good topic, Donald. Based on experience and two recent brake jobs, my answer is "it depends" - both on the parts situation and the mentality of the person.

On my Patriot front brake replacement with EBC Ultimax2 (without new clips), I purchased a hardware kit from NAPA ($10) and out of laziness opted to use the new clips and pin bushings (already spent much time cleaning other components). The old components could have been cleaned up and reused, but the NAPA ones seemed high quality and fit perfect (too easy). I no longer fret about a few $$ on a quality, long lasting repair.

My son recently replaced his Kia Soul front brakes with Wagner Thermoquiets and the included clips were wrong - they didn't come close to fitting. He spent time cleaning up the OEM hardware and reusing them. Two pad ears required filing to get good fit.

If the original hardware parts are in excellent condition, I see no reason to not reuse them. Age might affect rubber parts, prompting change.

My rustbelt tidbit of wisdom: the caliper surface under the hardware clips needs to be filed clean - wire brushing sometimes just burnishes the expanded rust and doesn't eliminate pad ear binding. Coat those surfaces with M77 or PasteLub prior to inserting the clips.


Are the lubes mentioned any different or better than Sil Glide.


Different. Sil-Glyde is for pins. PasteLub and M77 is for pad ears and backs, areas that are exposed, and get hotter than the pins.

 

[Donald]

I just noticed that Akebono on RockAuto has 2 listings for the same pad. The ones with an "A" on the end include the clips. The ones without the "A" do not.

 

[JeffKeryk]

I buy the Akebonos with the hardware, usually only a couple bucks more.
As others have said, pop out the old clips and lightly file the brackets.
A little grease under the hardware helps.
The hardware is stainless; it wont rust.
Make sure the pads fit correctly; no drag.
After proper prep, I have never had to file the pad ears; guess I am lucky.
Reusing the old hardware is fine unless they are damaged.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[Dan55]

Donald you live in Upstate New York where whatever they use on the roads during the winter creates havoc on brake hardware. There is a YouTube channel called South Main Auto located in Avoca NY. The owner Eric O describes how to do a proper brake job and the methods he uses to delay the effects of "Rust Jacking". https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yhw_d_EWrOQ