Keep with Conventional for 2001 Buick?

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Wow! I must say, quite some polar difference in opinions here. I imagine as we move forward in the "oil world", there will be less and less differences in the end product.

I am referring to the differences between conventional and synthetic. And, as one of you have mentioned in a previous post, the oil available today far exceeds what was available in 2001.

Yes, supertech synthetic is very inexpensive. Why would I not go with this option? Then again, being one of those that frequents this board, the analytical part of me likes the idea of " don't fix what ain't broken"

With such a low stress engine, I think either option works and there cannot be definite answer here.

If an oil meets an "SN" specification, then what could possibly be the leverage of using synthetic over conventional?

The car will probably last forever with one year oil changes. I guess it's just a matter of pick your poison!

I don't have a UOA on this engine but it would be interesting to see. Maybe I'll have one done.

And, it's interesting that the 10 w is recommended for this year. I know 5W could be used, but at 70 degrees, what benefit would be obtained? It's Phoenix and most of of the time, hotter than [censored] out here.🌞
 
Originally Posted by JGmazda
Appreciate the replies everyone! I don't want to "cheap out" on the oil... and I'm not a Mobil 1 fan. (I have a UOA coming on my 2008 KIA w/Supertech soon) Hopefully this will give me data. I use my KIA much harder that the Buick.


To help with your data-- I did a test a few years ago, 5,000 mile OCI with Amsoil, VWB, M1 and ST Syn. All were very close in wear metals (except M1 Iron, much higher there) and could have gone further. So no worries about using ST from a wear perspective. Considering the same for our vehicles.

And since the vehicle is in AZ....10w-30 year round.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted by GMBoy
You are thinking smart! Go with the Supertech Syn - it's dexos rated also so it meets a pretty stringent standard. You may even consider the Hi mileage version to keep seals conditioned and such.
Ditto this. MIght as well use a dexos1 rated full syn since its from Warren, a decent blending company in Iowa that puts together quality fluids for us.
 
If I lived in Arizona or any warm place I would run 10w30 in any flavor you want, PYB, VWB, QSAD, Mobil 5000, Chevron/Havoline the list goes on. The only reason I use synthetic is how cold it gets here, -5 this morning.
 
What you're doing now is just fine and obviously works. You didn't tell us what the annual mileage is these days. Could be 500....could be 3000.....and what are the typical miles on each trip? That should play the most important role in your decision. A short tripper doing 2-5 miles each trip never warms up, and leaves excess fuel, water, and corrosion products in your engine. I'd be tempted to do 2X oil changes each year (change filter every other change) just to get all those contaminants out. If she's driving at least 10-12 miles per trip then annually is fine.
 
Originally Posted by 69GTX
What you're doing now is just fine and obviously works. You didn't tell us what the annual mileage is these days. Could be 500....could be 3000.....and what are the typical miles on each trip? That should play the most important role in your decision. A short tripper doing 2-5 miles each trip never warms up, and leaves excess fuel, water, and corrosion products in your engine. I'd be tempted to do 2X oil changes each year (change filter every other change) just to get all those contaminants out. If she's driving at least 10-12 miles per trip then annually is fine.

It's had 18yrs to fail due to corrosion...js

For all anyone knows running a full syn after 18yrs of dino could spring a leak...then he'd really look like a "brain surgeon" to his aunt, wouldn't he? Like I said, don't fix what ain't broken....
 
I would stay with what you are doing. 10W-30 Chevron or Pennzoil. Might consider GM oil filter.

I can't see any mechanical benefits of changing. However, if changing to a synthetic would bring you additional piece of mind, I would change to synthetic.
 
I just bought a mint, garage kept, dealer serviced 08 impala of of an older lady that had seen nothing but dealer 5-30 conventional it's whole life. No leaks until I switched it over to synthetic and now i have a nice quarter sized spot every morning. When it's due I'm gonna go back to conventional.


Originally Posted by Lubener
I would stick with the dino oil and filter combos you mentioned and would not change to synthetic at this point. Why change from what has worked. Read too many situations where oil leaks start after switching on an old engine. You probably can go with 2 year oil changes. I go 2-3 years on an old Mercury which I use dino and drive it 1000-1500 miles during the summer.

Originally Posted by Lubener
I would stick with the dino oil and filter combos you mentioned and would not change to synthetic at this point. Why change from what has worked. Read too many situations where oil leaks start after switching on an old engine. You probably can go with 2 year oil changes. I go 2-3 years on an old Mercury which I use dino and drive it 1000-1500 miles during the summer.
 
I would stick with conventional but change it 2x year or maybe in 8 months. Considering short trips, i see it being more beneficial changing the dino 2x a year than staying with the synthetic a year long.
 
Originally Posted by bbhero
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
SN "conventional" is a syn blend now due to more stringent modern standards. The Walmart synthetic is a great deal, and there is nothing wrong with using it. I would use house brand synthetic over name-brand "dino"

Even the cheapest oil that meets SN standards is better than any oil available in 2001 when your car was new
smile.gif


Napa has their house brand synthetic oil on sale this month for $3.49/qt. It is Valvoline



This ^^^^^^^^^^

Very good post here.

This price point does not beat SuperTech synthetic and one is not better than the other. OP buy on price and anything SN+ or DEXOS is quite a bit better than 2001 motor oil you can sleep well just following the OLM.
 
Thanks guys. She drives about 10+ miles and it does heat up. She used to drive it down the block (literally like 5 houses down! ) To get her mail. That was some years ago and that worried me quite a bit. knowing that, I would take her out for weekly highway runs of about 25-30 miles... Just to burn off any condensation.

There is no set mileage these days since she rarely drives it. It's been on a couple longer trips and I think that did well for it.

Really appreciate all your input and advice you guys! ðŸ‘
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by bbhero
Originally Posted by slacktide_bitog
SN "conventional" is a syn blend now due to more stringent modern standards. The Walmart synthetic is a great deal, and there is nothing wrong with using it. I would use house brand synthetic over name-brand "dino"

Even the cheapest oil that meets SN standards is better than any oil available in 2001 when your car was new
smile.gif


Napa has their house brand synthetic oil on sale this month for $3.49/qt. It is Valvoline



This ^^^^^^^^^^

Very good post here.

This price point does not beat SuperTech synthetic and one is not better than the other. OP buy on price and anything SN+ or DEXOS is quite a bit better than 2001 motor oil you can sleep well just following the OLM.



Maybe just maybe... Someone may well not want to go to Walmart... And deal with all the mass of humanity and World Champions in that place....

$3.49 a qt is just fine... $17.50 is a ok price for 5 qts of full synthetic Napa oil.
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by 69GTX
What you're doing now is just fine and obviously works. You didn't tell us what the annual mileage is these days. Could be 500....could be 3000.....and what are the typical miles on each trip? That should play the most important role in your decision. A short tripper doing 2-5 miles each trip never warms up, and leaves excess fuel, water, and corrosion products in your engine. I'd be tempted to do 2X oil changes each year (change filter every other change) just to get all those contaminants out. If she's driving at least 10-12 miles per trip then annually is fine.

It's had 18yrs to fail due to corrosion...js


What you're missing is that the aunt might have driven most of those 53,000 miles under normal conditions....and only seriously short tripping the car the past couple of years. There's be no corrosion at all from those first 50,000+ miles. And maybe considerable corrosion and buildup as the car transformed into a severe short tripper. The OP didn't give any information of how and when the mileage was put on before I replied. Based on their latest reply as long as 10 mile trips are recorded (or a monthly highway run), an annual change on conventional makes sense.
 
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Originally Posted by D1dad
I just bought a mint, garage kept, dealer serviced 08 impala of of an older lady that had seen nothing but dealer 5-30 conventional it's whole life. No leaks until I switched it over to synthetic and now i have a nice quarter sized spot every morning. When it's due I'm gonna go back to conventional.

Ridiculous. I've switched a good amount of old vehicles with over 200k miles to synthetic oil over the past 40 years and they usually use LESS oil on synthetic. Every vehicle you own uses oil. Must be doing something wrong?
 
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by D1dad
I just bought a mint, garage kept, dealer serviced 08 impala of of an older lady that had seen nothing but dealer 5-30 conventional it's whole life. No leaks until I switched it over to synthetic and now i have a nice quarter sized spot every morning. When it's due I'm gonna go back to conventional.
Ridiculous. I've switched a good amount of old vehicles with over 200k miles to synthetic oil over the past 40 years and they usually use LESS oil on synthetic. Every vehicle you own uses oil. Must be doing something wrong?

A group3 full syn like SuperTech from warren wouldn't have a problem. I could maybe see a switch to a POE-based oil like Redline or Motul Ester oil dissolving some gunk stuck in the seals a little since POE is a good cleaner.
Group3 oil is simply a more severely-hydrotreated Group2 which is in conventional yellow bottle Pennzoil for example. Doubt Penzzoil yellow conventional would clear out goo from around the seals any more than SuperTech would.
 
Originally Posted by paoester
A group3 full syn like SuperTech from warren wouldn't have a problem. I could maybe see a switch to a POE-based oil like Redline or Motul Ester oil dissolving some gunk stuck in the seals a little since POE is a good cleaner.
Group3 oil is simply a more severely-hydrotreated Group2 which is in conventional yellow bottle Pennzoil for example. Doubt Penzzoil yellow conventional would clear out goo from around the seals any more than SuperTech would.

Well, I cannot argue your point but until this last Spring, I was a Mobil1 user. The vehicles I converted were all on Mobil1 and this goes back to when Mobil1 was a POE/Ester.
 
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Originally Posted by paoester
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by D1dad
I just bought a mint, garage kept, dealer serviced 08 impala of of an older lady that had seen nothing but dealer 5-30 conventional it's whole life. No leaks until I switched it over to synthetic and now i have a nice quarter sized spot every morning. When it's due I'm gonna go back to conventional.
Ridiculous. I've switched a good amount of old vehicles with over 200k miles to synthetic oil over the past 40 years and they usually use LESS oil on synthetic. Every vehicle you own uses oil. Must be doing something wrong?

A group3 full syn like SuperTech from warren wouldn't have a problem. I could maybe see a switch to a POE-based oil like Redline or Motul Ester oil dissolving some gunk stuck in the seals a little since POE is a good cleaner.
Group3 oil is simply a more severely-hydrotreated Group2 which is in conventional yellow bottle Pennzoil for example. Doubt Penzzoil yellow conventional would clear out goo from around the seals any more than SuperTech would.


Redline is far from POE based it's has around 2-10% POE. I can't speak about Motul.
 
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