Oil recommended for Old Snowthrower

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I have an old MTD (Snowflight) snow thrower that we purchased in 1965. It recommends using 10w oil but it has been a long time since that oil was available. Over the past years, I have use different weights of oil but mostly been using 10w30. With the reduction of zinc and synthetics mostly taking over, I have been thinking about changing to Mobil 1 5w30 (dexos 2) oil.
I have 2 questions:
1) I s this a good weight to use?
2) Do I need to add zinc additive?

Thanks
Carl
 
Yes this would be excellent oil to use, and you do not need to add any additives. Even though the modern oil may have less zinc, those OPE engines don't need much. Just think about it, the valve springs are so weak that you can squeeze them together with your fingers.
 
Been trying to keep the old girl going as long as possible.
I think I will use the 5w30 and it may even make it easier to start.

Thanks for the feedback
Carl
 
As someone that has done thousands of small engine oil changes, I would highly advise against using a synthetic in that OLD engine. It will probably leak like crazy and probably smoke like crazy. That is my experience running synthetic oil in 55 year old engines that have most likely ran conventional oils its entire life. Customers would bring me old engines like that, request synthetic oil, I would advise against it, they wanted it anyways, and then a few days later, they bring it back in requesting the synthetic out. I've seen it dozens of times...

If you are able to pull start a 10W30, then Delo or Rotella 10W30 would be a fine choice. If not, then pretty much any off the shelf conventional 5W30 would be fine.
 
Originally Posted by bubbatime
As someone that has done thousands of small engine oil changes, I would highly advise against using a synthetic in that OLD engine. It will probably leak like crazy and probably smoke like crazy. That is my experience running synthetic oil in 55 year old engines that have most likely ran conventional oils its entire life. Customers would bring me old engines like that, request synthetic oil, I would advise against it, they wanted it anyways, and then a few days later, they bring it back in requesting the synthetic out. I've seen it dozens of times...

If you are able to pull start a 10W30, then Delo or Rotella 10W30 would be a fine choice. If not, then pretty much any off the shelf conventional 5W30 would be fine.



I have heard that before and was my concern. That is why I was choosing a blend (dexo 2) . Was that full synthetic or a blend or did it matter?

Thank you for the feedback
Carl
 
Originally Posted by bubbatime
As someone that has done thousands of small engine oil changes, I would highly advise against using a synthetic in that OLD engine. It will probably leak like crazy and probably smoke like crazy. That is my experience running synthetic oil in 55 year old engines that have most likely ran conventional oils its entire life. Customers would bring me old engines like that, request synthetic oil, I would advise against it, they wanted it anyways, and then a few days later, they bring it back in requesting the synthetic out. I've seen it dozens of times...

If you are able to pull start a 10W30, then Delo or Rotella 10W30 would be a fine choice. If not, then pretty much any off the shelf conventional 5W30 would be fine.


For the price of the oil that these things take I personally will continue to use a synthetic oil until I run into a problem and use conventional if I do. Since I have never had that happen on my previous 1981 Briggs and Stratton 3hp that my parents bought new 2 years before I was born, now my current 99 6hp Briggs and Stratton and a recent Kohler ohv engine I did some carb work on. Also used synthetic in my 76 Olds v8 and several 305 Chevy's over the years, plus a couple 307 Olds. None of them ran different with synthetic.

So considering a snowblower only gets used in the cold I would take the chance with synthetic and change it for conventional if needed. Last winter we were loaned a snowblower from my father in law, it had fresh looking oil in it almost for sure conventional. It won't start with the pull start, I had to use the electric starter and extension cord unless it was warmed up.
 
Originally Posted by Ckerch
I have been thinking about changing to Mobil 1 5w30 (dexos 2) oil.Carl
5w-30 seems to be the general recommendation for snow blowers these days. I don't see how you could go wrong with it.

Originally Posted by bubbatime
It will probably leak like crazy and probably smoke like crazy. That is my experience running synthetic oil in 55 year old engines that have most likely ran conventional oils its entire life.
Why do you suppose that is? The oldest machine in my stable is a 1985 Troy-Bilt Pony rototiller with a 5 HP Briggs flathead. I switched from conventional SAE 30 to synthetic T6 5w-40 four or five years ago and haven't experienced a problem. Granted that this is a single data point with a much newer engine. Just curious on your perspective here.
 
If remember correctly (and this was a number of years ago) it had something to do with the cleaning properties of synthetic. With years of buildup and wear, the synthetic can leak by those components. That is why some machines can tolerate it and some cannot depending on the age and wear. Like I said, this is based on memory and not nothing I have read recently. That is why I posted this.
Maybe someone smarter than me can chime in.

Thanks everyone,
Carl
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by Ckerch
I have been thinking about changing to Mobil 1 5w30 (dexos 2) oil.Carl
5w-30 seems to be the general recommendation for snow blowers these days. I don't see how you could go wrong with it.

Originally Posted by bubbatime
It will probably leak like crazy and probably smoke like crazy. That is my experience running synthetic oil in 55 year old engines that have most likely ran conventional oils its entire life.
Why do you suppose that is? The oldest machine in my stable is a 1985 Troy-Bilt Pony rototiller with a 5 HP Briggs flathead. I switched from conventional SAE 30 to synthetic T6 5w-40 four or five years ago and haven't experienced a problem. Granted that this is a single data point with a much newer engine. Just curious on your perspective here.

I had a 1973 MTD rototiller (Briggs) until a few years ago and switched between syn 10w30 and dino 30 (whatever was on sale) for about 10 yrs years with no problems. Not sure how many have leaked after switching but at least two of us (Astro Guy and I) have had success with syn in older engines.
 
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by bubbatime
It will probably leak like crazy and probably smoke like crazy. That is my experience running synthetic oil in 55 year old engines that have most likely ran conventional oils its entire life.
Why do you suppose that is? The oldest machine in my stable is a 1985 Troy-Bilt Pony rototiller with a 5 HP Briggs flathead. I switched from conventional SAE 30 to synthetic T6 5w-40 four or five years ago and haven't experienced a problem. Granted that this is a single data point with a much newer engine. Just curious on your perspective here.


Most likely hours used (lots), out of round cylinders, and carbon'd up rings. If its a lower hour older engine, that is in good shape internally, then it will probably be fine. I've seen it so many times personally though, that my standard is to just use conventional oil in older engines.

But when we get down to brass tacks, what difference operationally, if any, is there between Pennzoil yellow bottle 5W30 in a snow blower, rather than Pennzoil synthetic 5W30? What proprieties, does the synthetic really offer? High temp stability? Not needed, as the engine will never be over 185 degrees. Cold start pumpability? Whats the difference between the two? It probably doesnt get cold enough in most places to make a difference.
 
I used the magic green European Castrol 0W30 for > decade in aged OPE, like 70s vintage Briggs, Tecumseh, and Onan and it worked great.
 
Originally Posted by bubbatime
Most likely hours used (lots), out of round cylinders, and carbon'd up rings. If its a lower hour older engine, that is in good shape internally, then it will probably be fine. I've seen it so many times personally though, that my standard is to just use conventional oil in older engines.
Thanks for sharing your insight. Of these three things, I can't see lots of hours or out of round cylinders making much difference when it comes to choice of oil. Am I missing something? As for carboned or coked up rings, would the synthetic oil maybe start to clean and free that up, possibly even bringing the out of round cylinders back into play? Just thinking out loud here.

Originally Posted by bubbatime
But when we get down to brass tacks, what difference operationally, if any, is there between Pennzoil yellow bottle 5W30 in a snow blower, rather than Pennzoil synthetic 5W30? What proprieties, does the synthetic really offer? High temp stability? Not needed, as the engine will never be over 185 degrees. Cold start pumpability? What's the difference between the two? It probably doesn't get cold enough in most places to make a difference.
That's a reasonable question. My best guesses are 1) synthetic might buy you some time while operating on a steep grade where the slinger can't grab any oil, and 2) synthetic might do a better job of keeping the rings from getting coked up in the first place. Obviously none of this contradicts what you first said, but it is interesting to think about.
 
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by Ckerch
I have been thinking about changing to Mobil 1 5w30 (dexos 2) oil.Carl
5w-30 seems to be the general recommendation for snow blowers these days. I don't see how you could go wrong with it.

Originally Posted by bubbatime
It will probably leak like crazy and probably smoke like crazy. That is my experience running synthetic oil in 55 year old engines that have most likely ran conventional oils its entire life.
Why do you suppose that is? The oldest machine in my stable is a 1985 Troy-Bilt Pony rototiller with a 5 HP Briggs flathead. I switched from conventional SAE 30 to synthetic T6 5w-40 four or five years ago and haven't experienced a problem. Granted that this is a single data point with a much newer engine. Just curious on your perspective here.

So far have not had an ICE leak after switching to syn. Thats 6 engines the oldest which is an 8 hp Ariens snow blower thats 35 years old. Really like T6 and Mobile 1.
 
Originally Posted by bubbatime
As someone that has done thousands of small engine oil changes, I would highly advise against using a synthetic in that OLD engine. It will probably leak like crazy and probably smoke like crazy. That is my experience running synthetic oil in 55 year old engines that have most likely ran conventional oils its entire life. Customers would bring me old engines like that, request synthetic oil, I would advise against it, they wanted it anyways, and then a few days later, they bring it back in requesting the synthetic out. I've seen it dozens of times...

If you are able to pull start a 10W30, then Delo or Rotella 10W30 would be a fine choice. If not, then pretty much any off the shelf conventional 5W30 would be fine.


That depends commercial usage versus home usage. Snow stuff is seasonal not year round. It goes by the hour usage..I don't like commenting on home usage because hour usage don't compare with commercial. Because it's old doesn't mean it's coked up., maybe because oil years ago was not as good as today reason on the coke.

Anyways lack of proper maintenance would be the most cause of coking ... low oil level not properly filled. Filthy oil that was not changed. BUT you still need the hours for it to happen.

For a splash type oil system Delo 30w over Delo 10w-30 what I've experience oil film tend to stick to the metal surface and less burn off. Temp 60-88F no could start here no reason for synthetic oil.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by bubbatime
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Originally Posted by bubbatime
It will probably leak like crazy and probably smoke like crazy. That is my experience running synthetic oil in 55 year old engines that have most likely ran conventional oils its entire life.
Why do you suppose that is? The oldest machine in my stable is a 1985 Troy-Bilt Pony rototiller with a 5 HP Briggs flathead. I switched from conventional SAE 30 to synthetic T6 5w-40 four or five years ago and haven't experienced a problem. Granted that this is a single data point with a much newer engine. Just curious on your perspective here.


Most likely hours used (lots), out of round cylinders, and carbon'd up rings. If its a lower hour older engine, that is in good shape internally, then it will probably be fine. I've seen it so many times personally though, that my standard is to just use conventional oil in older engines.

But when we get down to brass tacks, what difference operationally, if any, is there between Pennzoil yellow bottle 5W30 in a snow blower, rather than Pennzoil synthetic 5W30? What proprieties, does the synthetic really offer? High temp stability? Not needed, as the engine will never be over 185 degrees. Cold start pumpability? Whats the difference between the two? It probably doesnt get cold enough in most places to make a difference.


Cold start pumpability 100%. I can see from where you live that you haven't experienced it for yourself. I tried conventional 5w30 and synthetic 0w30 at the same temperature cold start in an 87 307 Oldsmobile v8 and recorded it to play back. Not scientific I know but it sounded like it cranked at double the speed with the 0w30. If I remember right it was about minus 10-15f at the time.

Also my 1981 Briggs and Stratton had a long hard life on my parents property when I was a kid. Mowing a hayfield that should have been done with a tractor. And not enough oil changes, we just checked and topped off. It never smoked ever. When I inherited it after it was over 30 years old I did several short changes with synthetic to hopefully clean it out and make up for previous lack of maintenance. I ran it for another number of years and even used it for a side business mowing some rough lawns. It never smoked and ran like new. While this is only one data point with outdoor power equipment (my other stuff is less than 25 years old), almost all my cars have been 1980s and older stuff which none of had a problem with synthetic. Ethanol gas is the only modern thing they don't like.
 
You can use anything in that engine that resembles oil and it won't care. I use 5w30 conventional in all the snowblowers I service, usually SuperTech or Napa, whatever is on sale. Like Bubba said, being a snowblower it likely will never see operating temps over 185 degrees. Many of the older snowblowers I service recommend using 5w20, so that would probably work well also. With any splash lubed engine, the most important thing is the oil level being full, not the type being used.
 
Based off all the good feedback, I will probably just stick with the conventional oil. After all it has been doing just fine for the last 55 years and the fact the snow thrower may only get use a hand full of times during a season. The only other question is the ethanol content in gas now. Does synthetic protect the cylinder walls/rings better than conventional ?



Thanks for all the feedback
Carl
 
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