0W-20 thoughts for Ford 3.5 Ti-VCT?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
67
Location
NJ
It calls for 5w-20 in my model year Edge, but my dads 18 explorer (same motor) says it can use 0w-20 basically all season.

Is there a lower film strength associated with these 0W oils?
Am I potentially increasing engine wear?

Also, how does something like an FL-500S compare nowadays to other filters because that's all I've been using.
 
if you are talking about strength, One of my cars recommends 0w20 but I use 10W30 and 5W30.

I would use 0W20 over 5W20. in general, you get a better oil based on what I've learned here!
 
The difference between 0w20 and 5w20 are so minuscule they're interchangeable. Mobil even recommends 0w20 for both 5w20 and 0w20 applications.

But I'm with OilUzer, I'm running 0w40 in both vehicles that call for 5w20. But I'd also pick 0w20 over a 5w20 as well.
 
If "it" doesn't call for it, I don't use it. I don't believe in second guessing the engineers who designed the car and listening to shadetree mechanics. If it called for 0w-20, people would be using 5w-20 just to be different.
 
Last edited:
I have nearly 100K on a 2014 Explorer with the 3.5L that has used 0W-20 since the second oil change. No issues whatsoever and considering that 0W-20 is typically a synthetic, I would not hesitate to use it.

Mobil 1 AFE used to state on the bottle it could be used where the Ford 5W-20 specification was required (this was before Ford came out with a 0W-20 specification).
 
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
[Linked Image]



Mobil 1 AFE used to state on the bottle it could be used where the Ford 5W-20 specification was required (this was before Ford came out with a 0W-20 specification).


I have always found that interesting, the 0W oil jugs all say that they can be used in replace the 5w and 10W oils...but you never see the 5W and 10W oil jugs say that they can replace the 0W's???
 
Originally Posted by Tjbouwhu
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
[Linked Image]



Mobil 1 AFE used to state on the bottle it could be used where the Ford 5W-20 specification was required (this was before Ford came out with a 0W-20 specification).


I have always found that interesting, the 0W oil jugs all say that they can be used in replace the 5w and 10W oils...but you never see the 5W and 10W oil jugs say that they can replace the 0W's???

I assume the W (winter rating) is the reason one can go down, but not up.
 
*M1 removed the "can be used in place of 5Wx " a while ago - there is a reason for that .
 
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Originally Posted by Tjbouwhu
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
[Linked Image]



Mobil 1 AFE used to state on the bottle it could be used where the Ford 5W-20 specification was required (this was before Ford came out with a 0W-20 specification).


I have always found that interesting, the 0W oil jugs all say that they can be used in replace the 5w and 10W oils...but you never see the 5W and 10W oil jugs say that they can replace the 0W's???

I assume the W (winter rating) is the reason one can go down, but not up.


Yes, so what is the point of 5W and 10W oils...just use 0W.
 
Originally Posted by Tjbouwhu
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Originally Posted by Tjbouwhu
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
[Linked Image]



Mobil 1 AFE used to state on the bottle it could be used where the Ford 5W-20 specification was required (this was before Ford came out with a 0W-20 specification).


I have always found that interesting, the 0W oil jugs all say that they can be used in replace the 5w and 10W oils...but you never see the 5W and 10W oil jugs say that they can replace the 0W's???

I assume the W (winter rating) is the reason one can go down, but not up.


Yes, so what is the point of 5W and 10W oils...just use 0W.


Because 5W and 10W are easier to find on sale. Keep an open mind. Right now I'm running 5W-20 why because it wound up costing me $4 a Jug.
 
Originally Posted by Tjbouwhu

Yes, so what is the point of 5W and 10W oils...just use 0W.

In general a 5 or 0w will be fine and maybe even preferred, in most any engine..but there are advantages to using a 10 or 15w. Remember, this is a generalization and there are always exceptions to the rule(s).

From
Machinery Lubrication

"..you may use a 5W viscosity grade where a 10W or 15W is recommended to provide faster lubrication to engine components during start-up. However, there are some drawbacks to consider. For instance, since a lighter base stock is used in the 5W formula, the lubricant may have more evaporation than a 10W or 15W. The 5W might also cost more than the 15W and break down more of the viscosity improver additives in the formula"

And this 👇too...

Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson

Because 5W and 10W are easier to find on sale. Keep an open mind. Right now I'm running 5W-20 why because it wound up costing me $4 a Jug.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*M1 removed the "can be used in place of 5Wx " a while ago - there is a reason for that .


M1 still has that info list on the website, fwiw.

Precisely balanced additive component system

Mobil 1â„¢ 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy Provides excellent overall lubrication and wear protection performance for many driving styles and conditions, from mild to severe, where a 5W-20 or 0W-20 is recommended
Mobil 1â„¢ 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy provides excellent overall lubrication and wear protection performance for many driving styles and conditions, from mild to severe, where a 10W-30, 5W-30 or 0W-30 is recommended.
 
Originally Posted by AntDeek
Also, how does something like an FL-500S compare nowadays to other filters because that's all I've been using.
Fram Ultra filters better than anything else known: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4188237/Best_alternative_to_FL500S
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Originally Posted by 4WD
XG10575
For longer OCIs or just for the security of wire-backed media, this is the one.


Use 0w20 instead of 5w20 any time. M1 AFE 0w30 is awfully tempting to use though for an "upgrade". You wouldn't have to go to 0w30 though.
I don't think film strength differs as you thought it might. All these oils have to pass the same SN, GF-5, dexos1 tests for wear performance.
 
Originally Posted by OilUzer
if you are talking about strength, One of my cars recommends 0w20 but I use 10W30 and 5W30.!


That's a bad idea if that vehicle has variable cam and/or valve timing.
 
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Originally Posted by OilUzer
if you are talking about strength, One of my cars recommends 0w20 but I use 10W30 and 5W30.!
That's a bad idea if that vehicle has variable cam and/or valve timing.

Does that apply to all such engines? My 1NZ-FE runs fine on many grades.
 
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Originally Posted by OilUzer
if you are talking about strength, One of my cars recommends 0w20 but I use 10W30 and 5W30.!


That's a bad idea if that vehicle has variable cam and/or valve timing.

No it is not. Key is whether engine is constructed with ONLY light oils in mind or it allows different oils.
I use 5W30 in 2GR-FE in Toyota SIenna which is recommended for 0W20.
Same engine was recommended for 5W30 until 2012, same engine is recommended for ACEA A3 and C3 oils (heavy 0/5W30 or generally light 0/5W40 oils) in Europe and Russia, and in Australia it is allowed to use 20W50 oil, and it has VVT.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Originally Posted by OilUzer
if you are talking about strength, One of my cars recommends 0w20 but I use 10W30 and 5W30.!


That's a bad idea if that vehicle has variable cam and/or valve timing.

No it is not. Key is whether engine is constructed with ONLY light oils in mind or it allows different oils.
I use 5W30 in 2GR-FE in Toyota SIenna which is recommended for 0W20.
Same engine was recommended for 5W30 until 2012, same engine is recommended for ACEA A3 and C3 oils (heavy 0/5W30 or generally light 0/5W40 oils) in Europe and Russia, and in Australia it is allowed to use 20W50 oil, and it has VVT.


You're talking about one engine and a generalized statement. Many engines need oil flow/pressure in the top end ASAP to minimize wear in parts such as vvt solenoids. This information is per a family member that is a power train engineer with an auto manufacturer.
 
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Originally Posted by OilUzer
if you are talking about strength, One of my cars recommends 0w20 but I use 10W30 and 5W30.!


That's a bad idea if that vehicle has variable cam and/or valve timing.


Can't tell any difference at all in my v6's.
 
Originally Posted by PowerSurge
You're talking about one engine and a generalized statement. Many engines need oil flow/pressure in the top end ASAP to minimize wear in parts such as vvt solenoids. This information is per a family member that is a power train engineer with an auto manufacturer.

Engines get "flow/pressure" in the top end regardless of the grade, as long as the winter rating is appropriate for the conditions.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top