Going from 5w30 to 5w20 in a 2006 and a 2007

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We have a 2006 Tacoma with 112k miles and a 2007 F J Cruiser with 150K miles. Both have the same 4.0 V6 engine. Sometimes one will sit a few months without use. Recently I started the Tacoma after sitting about 2 months or so and the engine made a lot of racket for several seconds until the oil pressure was up and there hasn't been any problems. In the past 6 years or so the engine has did it a few times after sitting a couple months or so, but not as severe as this last time. Recently the FJ Cruiser did this too. The noise was only the valve train, but the last time on both there was also rod knocking. Both currently have Valvoline full synthetic 5w30 oil, but mostly I've used Mobil synthetic 5w30.

Would a 5w20 be better (the engines have been back spec for the 5w20), if so, what about 0w20 say Castrol Edge with titanium or Mobil one?

In SE Louisiana the temps are rarely freezing and a few months are in the upper 90s.

thanks
 
Better for the startup rattle? Not likely; both will be around the same thickness when cold (with an edge to the 20). Starting them more often than once every two months will help with that. If you really think that a thinner oil will help at startup, go with a 0w-30.
 
Try some Forumula Shell 5w30 at Home Depot or Menards. Currently on sale at Menards for less than $2/qt.
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It's known to be one of the quietest oils out there.
 
That is to be expected, a 20 grade oil isn't going to help. If you're concerned get a "pre-luber aka: pre-oiler", it will pump oil through the engine before you turn the key to start it.
 
Originally Posted by JLTD
Better for the startup rattle? Not likely; both will be around the same thickness when cold (with an edge to the 20). Starting them more often than once every two months will help with that. If you really think that a thinner oil will help at startup, go with a 0w-30.

No 30-grade oil will ever be thinner than a 20-grade in New Orleans, regardless of the winter rating. Even if you're comparing between 30-grades the winter rating has no meaning there either.

Besides, to reduce "startup rattle" don't you want the highest MOFT possible?
 
Those 4.0 engines have a very long and expensive to replace timing chain. I would keep the 5w30 in them as I feel that it's a better choice for the chains than a 20.

I run 10w 30 in ours.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
Those 4.0 engines have a very long and expensive to replace timing chain. I would keep the 5w30 in them as I feel that it's a better choice for the chains than a 20.

I run 10w 30 in ours.



That's exactly what I'd run in it too,a 10W30.
 
I remember the Car Talk guys advising to remove the spark plug wires and crank it for a bit to get the oil up to the valves in this sort of situation. The engine probably won't go as many revs on the starter motor in 15 seconds as it would once it fires up... Crank it for 15 secs, put the wires back, then start it.
 
I ran a 10k short-trip OCI in my Toyota 4.0 with 0w-20 and did a UOA on it after- no harm no foul. That said, in LA you will be fine with a 30w, 20 won't do you any good.
 
Originally Posted by Bullet
We have a 2006 Tacoma with 112k miles and a 2007 F J Cruiser with 150K miles. Both have the same 4.0 V6 engine. Sometimes one will sit a few months without use. Recently I started the Tacoma after sitting about 2 months or so and the engine made a lot of racket for several seconds until the oil pressure was up and there hasn't been any problems. In the past 6 years or so the engine has did it a few times after sitting a couple months or so, but not as severe as this last time. Recently the FJ Cruiser did this too. The noise was only the valve train, but the last time on both there was also rod knocking. Both currently have Valvoline full synthetic 5w30 oil, but mostly I've used Mobil synthetic 5w30.

Would a 5w20 be better (the engines have been back spec for the 5w20), if so, what about 0w20 say Castrol Edge with titanium or Mobil one?

In SE Louisiana the temps are rarely freezing and a few months are in the upper 90s.

thanks

I would prefer 5W-20 over 5W-30 for most applications simply because 5W-20 has a thicker base oil and less viscosity-index improver (VII) than 5W-30. That's because the extra VII in 5W-30 forces the base oil of 5W-30 to be thinner than 5W-20, as the increased VII content makes it harder to meet the 5W cold specs. The thicker base-oil of 5W-20 helps protect the valvetrain and possibly the piston rings better against wear. It also results in lower Noack volatility for 5W-20 than for 5W-30.

If you're doing high-performance driving, such as high-speed driving and towing, 5W-30 may be better.

Moreover, if you have oil consumption, 5W-20 could have higher oil consumption than 5W-30.

My favorite 5W-20 is probably the Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5W-20, which is practically a monograde SAE 20 with no VII.

My favorite 0W-20 is the Mobil 1 Extended Protection 0W-20, which is a PAO-and-AN-based true synthetic with no Group III or GTL.
 
What filter are you running. Some have better antibackflow valves than others. Motorcraft FL400S on mine had some rattle on startup after a weekend sitting. OEM toyota does not.

You may want to try a different brand of oil filter.
 
Originally Posted by danez_yoda
What filter are you running. Some have better antibackflow valves than others. Motorcraft FL400S on mine had some rattle on startup after a weekend sitting. OEM toyota does not.

You may want to try a different brand of oil filter.





Toyota OEM.
 
Well considering they take 8 quarts, mix in 4 of 0w-20 and 4 of 0 or 5w-30. See if you notice any difference. Go from there. Honestly if you drive reasonably paced the 30 wt is of no help.
 
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