At a Crossroad with My F-150; sell or keep?

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If you like the car payment life trade it and start over. I am guessing your truck worth less then what you owe but they'll make it look good on paper. Not sure what you plan on spending on a replacement?

My self I would stick with it at only 102k miles and pay it off and drive on. Majority of vehicles can do 150k without serious fuss.
 
It probably needs coils, Fords will not set misfire DTC's 'til a Catalyst is deemed to be in danger of melting down. I've seen so many of these come in with a completely dead cylinder & no DTC's. Get 2 or more on one bank.....Then it will throw misfire DTC's.
Get a cylinder contribution test done!

Use a high moly grease on the slip yoke splines.

Get the misfires fixed before trying to diagnose the light knocking off idle.



These are good trucks ('09 & '10) other than the Phaser & Tensioner issues that lead to bigger valvetrain problems, If you didn't owe so much money on it.....You'd be a fool not to fix it at this point.
 
I owned, bought an Expedition new in 1997 first year of production and now 23 years later owners are still having trouble with the crummy 5.4 Triton. Same problems as ever. Ford never worked the bugs out of that engine, ever, over its whole long production run. It could not be fixed, inherent bad design. Never again a Ford.

There was a thread here last week about 2000 Tundra, 2UZ-FE V8 with 245,000 or something miles, owner finally had to replace a valve cover gasket — just a 20 year old dried out gasket. Took off the valve cover and the valve train looked like it just rolled off the factory floor. So clean you could eat your lunch off it.
 
IMO, just keep it if you can't go new because any used truck is probably going to have some issues...

On #2 , IME typical spline noise is coming to a stop and the ones I've heard aren't "light". If it did not do it prior to the engine, I'd march right back to dealer and tell them that.
 
I like the Pentastar setup (to be honest I have not driven one, just going off reviews) and I suspect I'd be happy with one. But if I had to pay big money I'd hold out for one with 3.55's. Up here I would also hold out for 4x4 as IMO I "need" 4WD in winter (heck I need 4WD in summer on wet grass).

IMO you don't have to trade today, so, holding out for the right one to come along makes more sense. If need be, buy used, Pentastar has been around for several years, although as we all know, used trucks are still stupid expensive (may well be better to buy new for financing and of course to be the initial owner).

Hmm... although now that I think about it, as a 4x2 it should be pretty cheap to swap the 3.21's out for 3.55's. Maybe the dealer would do that for you for free?
 
Originally Posted by wdn
I owned, bought an Expedition new in 1997 first year of production and now 23 years later owners are still having trouble with the crummy 5.4 Triton. Same problems as ever. Ford never worked the bugs out of that engine, ever, over its whole long production run. It could not be fixed, inherent bad design. Never again a Ford.

There was a thread here last week about 2000 Tundra, 2UZ-FE V8 with 245,000 or something miles, owner finally had to replace a valve cover gasket — just a 20 year old dried out gasket. Took off the valve cover and the valve train looked like it just rolled off the factory floor. So clean you could eat your lunch off it.


Two very different 5.4L's here, both have their quirks, but the 2V version (the one you would have had) is generally extremely reliable. We've owned 3x Expeditions with it: 1998, 2000, 2002. My parents are still driving the 2000 and other than reman starter issues, which isn't an engine problem, and some coils, it's been bulletproof. The PI 2V's main issue was that it had the potential to launch plugs. Mine blew out #4. My parent's one has not had that issue. Mine is still on the road, I would assume it has ~400,000Km on it now (250,000 miles). The valvetrain in my dad's would look just like the 2UZ-FE, as its had M1 basically its whole life at reasonable intervals. Ours had a bit of varnish thanks to the PO's maintenance practices.

The 3V iteration of the 5.4L brought with it a whole host of new issues. Plugs that wouldn't come out, phasers that would poop the bed and were quite noisy...etc. It's generally a less desirable mill than the 2V. The 5.0L Coyote that replaced it is a better engine.
 
If by "extremely reliable" is to include the Triton I had, I had to get I believe all of the injectors changed but at least six of them, and all the coil on plug units changed. A fair amount of that was covered because I had purchased at a pretty steep price the Ford ESP plan that covered it I think for the first 60,000 or 75,000 miles then it was all on me.
 
I was in a similar position with a Ford Ranger I had many moons ago. It had the 2.8 V6. It kept blowing computer modules. It also never ran correctly despite numerous visits to the dealership to check it out. After stranding me for the third time I traded it in on a Toyota Tacoma. No more trips to the service dept.
 
To me it depends on the condition of the truck, how much you have into it, etc. Sometimes it is better to fight the devil you know over the one you don't, but there is a point where it becomes a wasted effort. A lot of people do this, because they can't afford a newer vehicle and get stuck in a downward spiral of throwing money at something just to keep it going for a little while. If the truck is nearing this point, drop it like a hot potato. It's a truck you can always find a buyer. If it is in decent condition and just has a few issues, it is likely worth keeping.
 
IMO I would get a new Ram being it's end of the year, but that's just me. It's either monthly payments or problems. A 100K mile truck is high mileage IMO and I usually don't keep things past that unless I'm the original owner. A friend of mine had his 2007 F-150 transmission go out at around 150K miles, so that's a potential future issue too.
 
Do you think the economy will slow down? If yes, wait, and there will be a ton of nice repo trucks on the horizon and your lower priced truck will be more desireable.

If you think the economy will be strong, upgrade. I went from a paid off 05 GMC to a $500 a month 2016 GMC. I had zero concerns of the 05 wearing out or having issues. Most of the time i am happy with the decision. New trucks are so nice. Factory remote start is really nice in the cold. The 6.2 engine is a riot.
 
One more thing that is important to me, at least.
I let neighbors and friends borrow mo old, perfect, trusty 2001 Tundra.
If it gets a little scratch, or whatever, it's no biggie.

If I srpung for a drop dead gorgeous F150, I would go crazy if someone borrowed it.
Or if I scratched it...
But as others have said, there is nothing like new and you can get a great deal right now on a 2019.
 
Appreciate the feedback everyone, I'm going to ponder my options and figure it out. My biggest issue with the truck is that it seems like it has a lot of issues that are separate of each other. But I know there's no harm in getting it checked out either.

And the Rams are tempting as they are 14k off or so.

We'll see, I'll give it some time and let my gut decide.
 
Originally Posted by wdn
If by "extremely reliable" is to include the Triton I had, I had to get I believe all of the injectors changed but at least six of them, and all the coil on plug units changed. A fair amount of that was covered because I had purchased at a pretty steep price the Ford ESP plan that covered it I think for the first 60,000 or 75,000 miles then it was all on me.


The injectors being replaced is VERY unusual, the failing coils is common, though typically only one goes at a time. I had to replace 3x of them on mine, my dad has had to replace about the same I believe, in ~200,000 miles. Engine-wise, the coils (and my blown-out plug) are the one ones we had. Of course the vehicles had other minor issues like cracking exhaust manifolds, ball joints (common for that era of Ford) and when the mileage really got up there, leaking axle seals in the 9.75" diff.
 
Well, I've pondered it for a bit and think I'm going to take it somewhere to be diagnosed/scanned. Then i'll go from there, i'll update after I take it in, probably next week.
 
Well I took it in I had it checked over by local shop. They could verify my concerns but were unable to find any actual issues. Also they're scanning included a cylinder contribution test that turned up nothing everything appeared "normal", no misfires detected.

I was actually really hoping there would be as this means my issues are not related at all. I don't really have the time or the money to go start chasing these issues. I may need to seriously consider getting into something else, at least that's seems like a reasonable option at this point.
 
Originally Posted by panthermike
Well I took it in I had it checked over by local shop. They could verify my concerns but were unable to find any actual issues. Also they're scanning included a cylinder contribution test that turned up nothing everything appeared "normal", no misfires detected.

I was actually really hoping there would be as this means my issues are not related at all. I don't really have the time or the money to go start chasing these issues. I may need to seriously consider getting into something else, at least that's seems like a reasonable option at this point.

That's what is wrong these day's. Mechanics can't find anything without codes. Give you an example. One my 18 Grand Caravan I was chasing fuel mileage but no code so I knew dealership was a waste so I bought stuff to check out information. I found misfire one cylinder that was intermittent so I checked injector pulse rate timing etc but nothing. I looked at timing and sensors nothing so I looked at what changed and only thing that changed was oil ...¡. Not that misfire was from oil but rather fuel mileage. The misfire happened with dongle hooked up and acceleration hard getting on interstate. Changed oil fuel mileage came back.
 
Originally Posted by panthermike
Well I took it in I had it checked over by local shop. They could verify my concerns but were unable to find any actual issues. Also they're scanning included a cylinder contribution test that turned up nothing everything appeared "normal", no misfires detected.

I was actually really hoping there would be as this means my issues are not related at all. I don't really have the time or the money to go start chasing these issues. I may need to seriously consider getting into something else, at least that's seems like a reasonable option at this point.


My airplane sometimes runs smooth, and at times the instrument panel shakes like the engine is running rough. Come to find out, the engine mounts are sagging a bit and the vibration transfer is "sensed" as a problem. As the engine mount sags, the exhaust pipe will sometimes touch the cowling during turns and "buzz" like crazy. Leading to a real feeling of unease!

Yet the only real problem is a couple of rubber donuts that are softer than before.

I don't have any idea if your truck is going to be reliable or not. But my guess is that you are trying to trouble shoot the wrong issues. I own a 2009 F150 with the 3V 5.4L and have followed your posts with interest. Mine is not silky smooth at idle, and does shake on startup. It does have that minor "rattle" that is audible when driving slowly next to a concrete wall. But at 140K miles, it's still running strong and takes all the abuse we throw at it.

That rattle or knock is often just the camshaft drive dowel moving a few thousandths in it's slot. A very common issue that is not a major problem. 10W-40 oil does help calm this noise down.

I wish you luck, and it's my guess that things are probably OK. But I'm not there to experience it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7GcqtNTMqQ
 
Originally Posted by Cujet
Originally Posted by panthermike
Well I took it in I had it checked over by local shop. They could verify my concerns but were unable to find any actual issues. Also they're scanning included a cylinder contribution test that turned up nothing everything appeared "normal", no misfires detected.

I was actually really hoping there would be as this means my issues are not related at all. I don't really have the time or the money to go start chasing these issues. I may need to seriously consider getting into something else, at least that's seems like a reasonable option at this point.


My airplane sometimes runs smooth, and at times the instrument panel shakes like the engine is running rough. Come to find out, the engine mounts are sagging a bit and the vibration transfer is "sensed" as a problem. As the engine mount sags, the exhaust pipe will sometimes touch the cowling during turns and "buzz" like crazy. Leading to a real feeling of unease!

Yet the only real problem is a couple of rubber donuts that are softer than before.

I don't have any idea if your truck is going to be reliable or not. But my guess is that you are trying to trouble shoot the wrong issues. I own a 2009 F150 with the 3V 5.4L and have followed your posts with interest. Mine is not silky smooth at idle, and does shake on startup. It does have that minor "rattle" that is audible when driving slowly next to a concrete wall. But at 140K miles, it's still running strong and takes all the abuse we throw at it.

That rattle or knock is often just the camshaft drive dowel moving a few thousandths in it's slot. A very common issue that is not a major problem. 10W-40 oil does help calm this noise down.

I wish you luck, and it's my guess that things are probably OK. But I'm not there to experience it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7GcqtNTMqQ


Thanks for the insight cujet. I'm familiar with phaser issues (video linked) but that's not the issue with mine. It actually doesn't have startup noise anymore as the phasers are new.

Mounts are something I have not checked! If I'm chasing the wrong issues, which ones should I be chasing? Or don't chase at all?
 
The phasers can still rattle even when new. It's noticeable when driving slowly along side a wall with the window open.

The vibration at low rpm is a weird one. Not sure what to think. My truck has a 5-star tune on it. So it does not upshift into too high a gear anymore. It also opens the throttle fully below 4500rpm. Something it won't do without a tune.
 
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