What's the opinion on Mobil1 AFE 0w-20?
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by paoester
UOA's are obviously missing how black the pistons get. They only tell half the story. People who put all their faith in UOAs over actual oil engineering and better test specs are naive. Sorry, its just true.
Then I'm naive I guess and I'm fine with that. Because real life performance is what I'm more concerned with, not how some lube performed in a lab somewhere under controlled conditions. I'm not suggesting approvals like an API or ILSAC (or your German approval) aren't important, but like the UOA's they (the approvals) only tell half the story - that the lube is capable and meets "X" engine builder specs. Running a lube with a laundry list of Euro approvals doesn't necessarily equate to nor guarantee lower wear rates and longer engine life, over and above a lube that meets the engine builders minimum spec.
And empirical evidence seems to support this. There are millions of cars that use nothing but "lowly" bulk oil from Jiffy Lube or Valvoline Oil change ctrs.. and these cars are racking up tens of millions of trouble free miles annually and lasting (staying on the road) longer than ever before. Case in point, I've got 164k miles on an engine that burns zero oil, leaks nothing and yes.. even has a little carbon on the piston tops but cylinder compression after 164k miles use of lowly API/ILSAC lube oil is still at or near factory compression levels.
So..to each his own. If you wanna chase the latest MB, VW, Euro or AEIOU approval..more power to ya, after all It's your wallet..but you haven't convinced this vehicle owner that those approvals can do anything for me that the API/ILSAC approved lubes I've been using don't already do....
I like a little carbon on the piston tops. Reminds me to check my 401k account to see all the money I've saved by not buying overpriced oil for X miles - without paying for UOAs.
To each his own.
Originally Posted by paoester
UOA's are obviously missing how black the pistons get. They only tell half the story. People who put all their faith in UOAs over actual oil engineering and better test specs are naive. Sorry, its just true.
Then I'm naive I guess and I'm fine with that. Because real life performance is what I'm more concerned with, not how some lube performed in a lab somewhere under controlled conditions. I'm not suggesting approvals like an API or ILSAC (or your German approval) aren't important, but like the UOA's they (the approvals) only tell half the story - that the lube is capable and meets "X" engine builder specs. Running a lube with a laundry list of Euro approvals doesn't necessarily equate to nor guarantee lower wear rates and longer engine life, over and above a lube that meets the engine builders minimum spec.
And empirical evidence seems to support this. There are millions of cars that use nothing but "lowly" bulk oil from Jiffy Lube or Valvoline Oil change ctrs.. and these cars are racking up tens of millions of trouble free miles annually and lasting (staying on the road) longer than ever before. Case in point, I've got 164k miles on an engine that burns zero oil, leaks nothing and yes.. even has a little carbon on the piston tops but cylinder compression after 164k miles use of lowly API/ILSAC lube oil is still at or near factory compression levels.
So..to each his own. If you wanna chase the latest MB, VW, Euro or AEIOU approval..more power to ya, after all It's your wallet..but you haven't convinced this vehicle owner that those approvals can do anything for me that the API/ILSAC approved lubes I've been using don't already do....
I like a little carbon on the piston tops. Reminds me to check my 401k account to see all the money I've saved by not buying overpriced oil for X miles - without paying for UOAs.
To each his own.
I used M1 0W20 AFE in my Elantra when the jug stated essentially it was "good for any 5W20 application" . I only got away from it when the 0W20 AFE label changed - in hindsight it may have been the best performing oil in the Elantra .
Originally Posted by jongies3
Superb oil, the AFE line is vastly underrated. I use the 0W-30 in my Tacoma and go 10k intervals, blackstone says I could go 12k if I wanted so it's long drain capable.
Originally Posted by jongies3
Superb oil, the AFE line is vastly underrated. I use the 0W-30 in my Tacoma and go 10k intervals, blackstone says I could go 12k if I wanted so it's long drain capable.
Mobil 1 AFE 0W-16, Mobil 1 EP 0W-20, and Mobil 1 AP 0W-20 are PAO-and-AN-based oils (no POE, no GTL, no Group III).
Mobil 1 AFE 0W-20 has recently been reformulated as GTL-based. It no longer has any PAO. However, it should have some AN as usual with any non-FS and non-ESP Mobil 1 oil. FS and ESP Mobil 1 oils use some POE instead of some AN.
Mobil 1 AFE 0W-20 has recently been reformulated as GTL-based. It no longer has any PAO. However, it should have some AN as usual with any non-FS and non-ESP Mobil 1 oil. FS and ESP Mobil 1 oils use some POE instead of some AN.
Originally Posted by OilReport99
I like a little carbon on the piston tops. Reminds me to check my 401k account to see all the money I've saved by not buying overpriced oil for X miles - without paying for UOAs.
To each his own.
Preaching to the choir brother.. never did a UOA, no reason to. And as far as the bit of carbon buildup i see, it's nothing some Techron and the occasional Rislone in the crankcase/piston soak can't keep in check....
But hey, if running a grp4-5 lube with AEIOU approvals helps you sleep at night... have at it. Like i say, your car your wallet.
I like a little carbon on the piston tops. Reminds me to check my 401k account to see all the money I've saved by not buying overpriced oil for X miles - without paying for UOAs.
To each his own.
Preaching to the choir brother.. never did a UOA, no reason to. And as far as the bit of carbon buildup i see, it's nothing some Techron and the occasional Rislone in the crankcase/piston soak can't keep in check....
But hey, if running a grp4-5 lube with AEIOU approvals helps you sleep at night... have at it. Like i say, your car your wallet.
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Originally Posted by Gokhan
Mobil 1 AFE 0W-16, Mobil 1 EP 0W-20, and Mobil 1 AP 0W-20 are PAO-and-AN-based oils (no POE, no GTL, no Group III).
Mobil 1 AFE 0W-20 has recently been reformulated as GTL-based. It no longer has any PAO. However, it should have some AN as usual with any non-FS and non-ESP Mobil 1 oil. FS and ESP Mobil 1 oils use some POE instead of some AN.
And that's just the complexity of thin stuff when they make many, many more combinations … yet they all wind up loud.
MolaDrums, MolaBass, MolaKeyboard, or MolaGuitar goes in each formula to make sure …
Mobil 1 AFE 0W-16, Mobil 1 EP 0W-20, and Mobil 1 AP 0W-20 are PAO-and-AN-based oils (no POE, no GTL, no Group III).
Mobil 1 AFE 0W-20 has recently been reformulated as GTL-based. It no longer has any PAO. However, it should have some AN as usual with any non-FS and non-ESP Mobil 1 oil. FS and ESP Mobil 1 oils use some POE instead of some AN.
And that's just the complexity of thin stuff when they make many, many more combinations … yet they all wind up loud.
MolaDrums, MolaBass, MolaKeyboard, or MolaGuitar goes in each formula to make sure …
Last edited:
Originally Posted by OilReport99
I like a little carbon on the piston tops. Reminds me to check my 401k account to see all the money I've saved by not buying overpriced oil for X miles - without paying for UOAs.
To each his own.
You meant to say "Carbon on the ringlands", not piston tops. Then your "401k" is impacted by all the oil burning you're doing, extra fuel you have to purchase, and catalytic convertor you just replaced, if not complete engine when the sump ran dry and level was never checked. Ooops!
I like a little carbon on the piston tops. Reminds me to check my 401k account to see all the money I've saved by not buying overpriced oil for X miles - without paying for UOAs.
To each his own.
You meant to say "Carbon on the ringlands", not piston tops. Then your "401k" is impacted by all the oil burning you're doing, extra fuel you have to purchase, and catalytic convertor you just replaced, if not complete engine when the sump ran dry and level was never checked. Ooops!
The vast majority of owners do not open their engines or have their engines scoped to check the Pistons. The whole idea of black pistons is silly thinking. One oil is not going to make difference over another. It's the schedule of oil changes that counts.
What's the definition of overpriced oil around here? My definition is going to a quick lube and getting charged $50 for a standard oil change. For $40 I can go to Advance and walk out with one of their overpriced package deals or even a 5qt jug of liqui moly. I don't but I could. I loaded up on so much clearance oil and $5 Bosch filters that my average synthetic service is around $13 total.
Originally Posted by D1dad
What's the definition of overpriced oil around here? My definition is going to a quick lube and getting charged $50 for a standard oil change. For $40 I can go to Advance and walk out with one of their overpriced package deals or even a 5qt jug of liqui moly. I don't but I could. I loaded up on so much clearance oil and $5 Bosch filters that my average synthetic service is around $13 total.
That's going to vary. One guy can buy a Rural King for less than $15 a jug and say that the Valvoline at $22.xx a jug is too much while the Valvoline guy will say that M1 EP at $28 a jug is too much and so on and so forth.
The main point is if you are running a $35-40 a jug boutique oil in a daily driver on 5k oci, then you are overspending on oil because you are not getting the full benefit of that boutique oil.
What's the definition of overpriced oil around here? My definition is going to a quick lube and getting charged $50 for a standard oil change. For $40 I can go to Advance and walk out with one of their overpriced package deals or even a 5qt jug of liqui moly. I don't but I could. I loaded up on so much clearance oil and $5 Bosch filters that my average synthetic service is around $13 total.
That's going to vary. One guy can buy a Rural King for less than $15 a jug and say that the Valvoline at $22.xx a jug is too much while the Valvoline guy will say that M1 EP at $28 a jug is too much and so on and so forth.
The main point is if you are running a $35-40 a jug boutique oil in a daily driver on 5k oci, then you are overspending on oil because you are not getting the full benefit of that boutique oil.
I get that. I try and keep the cost cheap and change at manufactures recommendation while still using a name brand oil. I don't use amsoil or RP but won't run house brands either. I'm sure they're fine but the name on the jug makes the extra buck or two worth it to me.
Originally Posted by D1dad
I get that. I try and keep the cost cheap and change at manufactures recommendation while still using a name brand oil. I don't use amsoil or RP but won't run house brands either. I'm sure they're fine but the name on the jug makes the extra buck or two worth it to me.
Please don't put Royal Purple in the same category as Amsoil. Royal Purple's only redeeming feature is purple dye, compared to SuperTech for example. Amsoil is exceptional oil, not RP.
Thats basically smart. I've done that as well (Pennz Plat 0w20 in a '19 Tiguan now) because it had a $10 rebate and is dexos1, its decent. For that Tiguan, VW is adamant about raising the performance level (vw 508 nur blaugrünes öl) of their 0w20, so I'll happily do that in the future once that Platinum I had gets used for a partial-interval oil change at around 7k miles instead of VW's 10k miles with 508.
Most of the Extended Performance oils like Amsoil SS or M1 Annual or Castrol gold bottle or VW 508 oils are best used if oil change intervals are 10,000 miles (1 or 2 years or so max) with warmed-up trips.
It also depends on how much you value the engine. A new Veloster N poster is a perfect example. We discussed his choice of Castrol Edge black bottle, and said it was a good choice. Then I mentioned that racing or performance driving meant a little thicker oil could be valuable. He keeps that brand new Veloster spit-shined I'm sure, so he actually went for one of the best oils on the market: A racing oil with street cred, Ravenol REP 5w30, with semi-exotic base oils and additives from Germany. Its a cool oil, and maybe over-kill, but its a new car he's proud of, so there it is. No SuperTech (or RP!) for him.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5258097/1
I get that. I try and keep the cost cheap and change at manufactures recommendation while still using a name brand oil. I don't use amsoil or RP but won't run house brands either. I'm sure they're fine but the name on the jug makes the extra buck or two worth it to me.
Please don't put Royal Purple in the same category as Amsoil. Royal Purple's only redeeming feature is purple dye, compared to SuperTech for example. Amsoil is exceptional oil, not RP.
Thats basically smart. I've done that as well (Pennz Plat 0w20 in a '19 Tiguan now) because it had a $10 rebate and is dexos1, its decent. For that Tiguan, VW is adamant about raising the performance level (vw 508 nur blaugrünes öl) of their 0w20, so I'll happily do that in the future once that Platinum I had gets used for a partial-interval oil change at around 7k miles instead of VW's 10k miles with 508.
Most of the Extended Performance oils like Amsoil SS or M1 Annual or Castrol gold bottle or VW 508 oils are best used if oil change intervals are 10,000 miles (1 or 2 years or so max) with warmed-up trips.
It also depends on how much you value the engine. A new Veloster N poster is a perfect example. We discussed his choice of Castrol Edge black bottle, and said it was a good choice. Then I mentioned that racing or performance driving meant a little thicker oil could be valuable. He keeps that brand new Veloster spit-shined I'm sure, so he actually went for one of the best oils on the market: A racing oil with street cred, Ravenol REP 5w30, with semi-exotic base oils and additives from Germany. Its a cool oil, and maybe over-kill, but its a new car he's proud of, so there it is. No SuperTech (or RP!) for him.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5258097/1
Originally Posted by PimTac
The vast majority of owners do not open their engines or have their engines scoped to check the Pistons. The whole idea of black pistons is silly thinking. One oil is not going to make difference over another. It's the schedule of oil changes that counts.
+1
The vast majority of owners do not open their engines or have their engines scoped to check the Pistons. The whole idea of black pistons is silly thinking. One oil is not going to make difference over another. It's the schedule of oil changes that counts.
+1
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