What's the opinion on Mobil1 AFE 0w-20?

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Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Originally Posted by paoester
Its not a great oil, its a good oil.

I ran it for up to 17K under severe conditions and the UOAs were stellar. I would call that great in any book and would compare it against any oil up to 15K in an MPI engine.


To qualify that, you were using AFE in a Ford Modular V-8, correct? I have had a 2003 Mercury with that engine and it was very gentle on oil. Subaru engines have different variables in play so I wouldn't want any Subaru owners reading this and then being under the impression that they can use AFE for 15,000 miles or more without consequence.
 
I have put some 505K using M1 20 wt oils in the last few years, all at 10K OCI, and around 425K was with 0-20 AFE. Outstanding results as with all M1 oils.
 
It's a very good oil. Outstanding cold weather performance and like all M1 oils superb oxidation resistance.
 
It's a proven high-quality product that you can get cheap after an easy to submit rebate. It's all I use in my two newer Hondas.
 
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Great oil, I used in towing 8-9K in my 2010 FX4 5.4L with zero issues. Aside from some initial oil changes, it is all that my 2014 Explorer has run and it is nearing 100K at this point. I would not hesitate to use it.



Do you have the Ecooost 3.5L? If so, what OCI are you running and how are your timing chains doing?
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
what's "great" on paper doesn't necessarily translate to good UOA's. I've seen some "lowly" old house blends turn in stellar UOA's. But hey, I get it.. marketing
UOA's are obviously missing how black the pistons get. They only tell half the story. People who put all their faith in UOAs over actual oil engineering and better test specs are naive. Sorry, its just true.
 
Meh. But haven used any of the "newer" formulations of M1.

I would only go with the EP for a M1 0W20 product

and would prefer Valvoline Advanced over AFE.

Mobil 1 and Subaru dont get along through my historical applications.
 
Originally Posted by paoester
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
what's "great" on paper doesn't necessarily translate to good UOA's. I've seen some "lowly" old house blends turn in stellar UOA's. But hey, I get it.. marketing
UOA's are obviously missing how black the pistons get. They only tell half the story. People who put all their faith in UOAs over actual oil engineering and better test specs are naive. Sorry, its just true.







Well this could get interesting.
 
Originally Posted by sst9303
I got a couple 5qt jugs during the rebate deal, I used one jug in the Camry and it seem the engine is louder than the TGMO............granted all 3 Camry's we have had have all been louder than most vehicles but there is a very notable difference after the AFE change.


I had the same observation with my 5.7 Tundra. I'm sure both are good oils, but I found the 0W-20 TGMO to be much quieter than 0W-20 AFE.
 
Originally Posted by cluster5
General question in the title.

Usage:
Subaru Crosstrek 2019 2.0L DI, manual.
5c to -40c.
Usually 70% highway.
Trips are usually 25-30minutes.
Might not use the car for 2-3 days at a time.
Oil change every 6 months because I don't reach 10000KM (currently at 7000Km).

Got the oil for cheap. I'll change my oil before the end of the month (hence the temperature range).

Willing to try something else next time around may (temperature range will be between 5c and 40c).


Any GF5/SN+ oil is fine in this application. Whether it's made with Group III, PAO, POE, AEIOU, it just doesn't matter.
 
Originally Posted by Bebop367
SDS shows 60 - < 70% PAO.
Mobil1 EP & AP say that, not AFE. Base oil makes up 70% to 80% of an oil, and the addtives swimming in Group3 or even some Group 2 makimg up the rest, typically. That means the base oil is about 100% PAO for EP and AP. Close enough anyway.
Originally Posted by bluesubie
Any GF5/SN+ oil is fine in this application. Whether it's made with Group III, PAO, POE, AEIOU, it just doesn't matter.

Sounds like you are clinging to some rumors that Mobil1 is pulling a fast one on us all by actually making 0w20 AFE, EP, and AP the same identical oil in different labels and pricing.
I don't think they could get away with that in the real world. There really are differences between them, partly due to more PAO used, and maybe in better anti-ox & VIIs in the higher priced ones.

If you dump oil frequently, we can assume the cheaper materials in 0w20 AFE would keep the pistons clean enough and wear would be adequate.
For longer drain intervals or when there is extra heat, EP and AP earn their stripes, no doubt.
 
Originally Posted by Ignatius
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Originally Posted by paoester
Its not a great oil, its a good oil.
I ran it for up to 17K under severe conditions and the UOAs were stellar. I would call that great in any book and would compare it against any oil up to 15K in an MPI engine.
To qualify that, you were using AFE in a Ford Modular V-8, correct? I have had a 2003 Mercury with that engine and it was very gentle on oil. Subaru engines have different variables in play so I wouldn't want any Subaru owners reading this and then being under the impression that they can use AFE for 15,000 miles or more without consequence.
To be absolutely clear, NO ONE should run any oil for 15K without some UOAs along the way to confirm the health of the oil. Towing heavy in high temperatures and in the mountains is not what I would call "easy on the oil" (your experience may be different) and yes, it was a Ford Modular. With that said, I still stand by my statement that AFE can hold its own against any other oil--I have yet to see another outperform it and certainly not in the same price range.
 
Agree with PSD … I first ran the EP when it was $25 … but once I saw my OLM and driving patterns were in the 6k-7k range I went to AFE. Liked getting jugs at Walmart and 6 packs at Costco for my two 8 quart V8's
(2:1 ratio, almost same price).

Now with only two changes of AFE left … will start using my clearance stash of M1 AP … trying to decide how long to leave it in …
 
Originally Posted by paoester
Sounds like you are clinging to some rumors that Mobil1 is pulling a fast one on us all by actually making 0w20 AFE, EP, and AP the same identical oil in different labels and pricing.
I don't think they could get away with that in the real world. There really are differences between them, partly due to more PAO used, and maybe in better anti-ox & VIIs in the higher priced ones.


No, just looking at the application and that a naturally aspirated 152 hp Subaru isn't particularly tough on oil.
 
Originally Posted by paoester
UOA's are obviously missing how black the pistons get. They only tell half the story. People who put all their faith in UOAs over actual oil engineering and better test specs are naive. Sorry, its just true.

Then I'm naive I guess and I'm fine with that. Because real life performance is what I'm more concerned with, not how some lube performed in a lab somewhere under controlled conditions. I'm not suggesting approvals like an API or ILSAC (or your German approval) aren't important, but like the UOA's they (the approvals) only tell half the story - that the lube is capable and meets "X" engine builder specs. Running a lube with a laundry list of Euro approvals doesn't necessarily equate to nor guarantee lower wear rates and longer engine life, over and above a lube that meets the engine builders minimum spec.

And empirical evidence seems to support this. There are millions of cars that use nothing but "lowly" bulk oil from Jiffy Lube or Valvoline Oil change ctrs.. and these cars are racking up tens of millions of trouble free miles annually and lasting (staying on the road) longer than ever before. Case in point, I've got 164k miles on an engine that burns zero oil, leaks nothing and yes.. even has a little carbon on the piston tops but cylinder compression after 164k miles use of lowly API/ILSAC lube oil is still at or near factory compression levels.

So..to each his own. If you wanna chase the latest MB, VW, Euro or AEIOU approval..more power to ya, after all It's your wallet..but you haven't convinced this vehicle owner that those approvals can do anything for me that the API/ILSAC approved lubes I've been using don't already do....
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by bluesubie
Originally Posted by paoester
Sounds like you are clinging to some rumors that Mobil1 is pulling a fast one on us all by actually making 0w20 AFE, EP, and AP the same identical oil in different labels and pricing.
I don't think they could get away with that in the real world. There really are differences between them, partly due to more PAO used, and maybe in better anti-ox & VIIs in the higher priced ones.


No, just looking at the application and that a naturally aspirated 152 hp Subaru isn't particularly tough on oil.

They love to stick chain tensioners and there are over 6 feet of chain up front.
I've Had three subaru FB's so far. Last UOA (posted) was stellar and the engine isn't even running that good!:)
 
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