Have to drive car with low compression across the country...

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Originally Posted by doitmyself
Originally Posted by Mainia
The 1.6 is Hyundai's best motor that only real problem comes if very early in it's life it drops a piston skirt, otherwise no raal issue if they get passed that.....other then a car fire from the fuel pump/ fuel line.

The 1.6 in the Kia Soul is a different story. You might be correct that the 1.6 is a good engine, but other mistakes are causing engine problems in the Kia Soul set up. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-...recalls-by-534000-vehicles-idUSKCN1QH2EB The various articles point to bad computer programming causing high exhaust temperatures the can kill the catalytic converter and that can back up into the engine to ruin it also.



That "bad programing" is intentional. It is called a "bad tune". ALL Hyundai's with a turbo with possibly an exception of the Veloster N and i30 N series, are dumping fuel to reduce the chance for LSPI. What makes it even worse Hyundai Kia have made the horrid choice of specing their 10:1 compression turbo engines for 87 octane with their very high boost of 17 psi., and that full boost happens at 1,450 rpm. Lets just say there is hardly much timing and a TON of fuel being dumped in the cylinders. People that get stage 0 and stage 1 tunes have a totally new car that runs right .....but you have to run 91 to 93 octane. And you have zero drivetrain warranty. That's why my lowered Kona AWD 1.6T will never have a tune, the warranty is too valuable because it's a Hyundai. if it was a VW GTI or Golf R I would get tune after 15,000 miles and feel safe everything will hold together. Hyundai not so much , so I have to have a warranty on my Hyundai.

The 1.6T is a different motor class then those in that article and most are not turbos. The fire problem comes from the high pressure fuel pump and the fuel line leaking. Korean way of life is putting your head in the sand and waiting for the next day and deny and deny. That is why we have the 8 year old rod bearing issue and this fire issue. ALL these COULD be designed out with over engineering. They choose "HEAD IN SAND" or pride of final long term design.
 
Originally Posted by Tralever
Originally Posted by HangFire
So the car "doesn't use oil" (first post) but it can't keep it in it for a week and the tailpipe is covered with oil.. huh?

If you're gonna troll, please keep your story straight.



If you're going to troll, don't do it under the guise of 3640 posts. Once whatever additive the original owner put in it was eventually lost, it loses oil very rapidly. After discovering the pattern, we added Lucas and it has maintained its oil level. Sure it's no doubt lost some, since, but for the most part, it has stemmed the tide.


Lol 3.6K posts is hardly a guise.

So... Just WHAT is the point of this thread?
 
Originally Posted by Mainia
The 1.6T is a different motor class then those in that article and most are not turbos. The fire problem comes from the high pressure fuel pump and the fuel line leaking. Korean way of life is putting your head in the sand and waiting for the next day and deny and deny. That is why we have the 8 year old rod bearing issue and this fire issue. ALL these COULD be designed out with over engineering. They choose "HEAD IN SAND" or pride of final long term design.

Our discussion is off topic since the OP has identified his engine as the 2.0. But just for clarification, some 1.6L engines are going through a recall/replacement due to poor computer management of excessive catalytic converter heat that can cause converter destruction, piston damage, and/or engine fires: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCONL-19V120-7353.pdf
 
Originally Posted by Tralever
HangFire said:
So the car "doesn't use oil" (first post) but it can't keep it in it for a week and the tailpipe is covered with oil.. huh?

If you're gonna troll, please keep your story straight.



If you're going to troll, don't do it under the guise of 3640 posts. Once whatever additive the original owner put in it was eventually lost, it loses oil very rapidly. After discovering the pattern, we added Lucas and it has maintained its oil level. Sure it's no doubt lost some, since, but for the most part, it has stemmed the tide.[/quote



So you've added the additive anyway and made the trip ?

Also the number of posts made means nothing unless you've touched on that before.
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by Tralever
Originally Posted by HangFire
So the car "doesn't use oil" (first post) but it can't keep it in it for a week and the tailpipe is covered with oil.. huh?

If you're gonna troll, please keep your story straight.



If you're going to troll, don't do it under the guise of 3640 posts. Once whatever additive the original owner put in it was eventually lost, it loses oil very rapidly. After discovering the pattern, we added Lucas and it has maintained its oil level. Sure it's no doubt lost some, since, but for the most part, it has stemmed the tide.


Lol 3.6K posts is hardly a guise.

So... Just WHAT is the point of this thread?


Quote
"What approach should I take to try and get the compression up so that it can sustain 21 hours of driving?"


Originally Posted by doitmyself
Originally Posted by Mainia
The 1.6T is a different motor class then those in that article and most are not turbos. The fire problem comes from the high pressure fuel pump and the fuel line leaking. Korean way of life is putting your head in the sand and waiting for the next day and deny and deny. That is why we have the 8 year old rod bearing issue and this fire issue. ALL these COULD be designed out with over engineering. They choose "HEAD IN SAND" or pride of final long term design.

Our discussion is off topic since the OP has identified his engine as the 2.0. But just for clarification, some 1.6L engines are going through a recall/replacement due to poor computer management of excessive catalytic converter heat that can cause converter destruction, piston damage, and/or engine fires: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2019/RCONL-19V120-7353.pdf

Good to know, thanks for posting.
 
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Without proper diagnostics, your question cannot be answered. For example, a quick fix for gummed up low tension rings could make a broken ring situation worse.
 
Originally Posted by zfasts03
I would bet it is a plugged cat. converter.

I have driven cars that are worn out and low on power. Highway speeds were not the issue.


I just came in to say this.
 
Originally Posted by mrdctaylor
Originally Posted by zfasts03
I would bet it is a plugged cat. converter.

I have driven cars that are worn out and low on power. Highway speeds were not the issue.


I just came in to say this.

If the Cat were plugged up enough to increase pressure at the exhaust manifold I would think that would throw a DTC. Plus not only will a bad/hot running Cat throw a DTC, a bad Cat coated in oil won't burn the unspent fuel vapour efficiently and the downstream 02 sensors should report this. And he said he drove the car fine for 2 months after purchase before the problem surfaced, I don't know how the seller could "mask" a bad/failing Cat???

- The oily tailpipe (assuming it's not moisture laden with soot) suggests to me an oil leak via rings or valve seals

- check the PCV. A plugged pcv can increase crankcase pressure causing oil to seep past rings.

- get it compression tested

You're in limp mode for a reason. Trying to drive it like that for extended time is not going to help things and will probably make it worse. I think the U-haul trailer suggestion is a good one but it's your car, do what one must...... just don't get anyone killed because you can't go over 40.
 
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If it's so bad that 40mph is the comfortable tops, driving it to save money could very likely leave you stranded with a bigger bill. Rent a ryder truck and tow dolly. buy a bus ticket or readeye flight down there. Tow it home not using the pilot. I give 25% odds it can't make the drive back if it's shredded so bad to have such low compression, though I agree, it could be very different. They get hard to start when that worn, plug fouling ever which way, can't idle, etc..
 
I'm wondering how the heck a 2014 Kia is burning oil? I knew of someone who had a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine and while they did take it into a quick lube regularly it somehow started burning oil and clogging the cat. It ran like crap until a hole was blown in the cat.

If it was me and you have nothing to lose before a used engine is installed, I'd run 20W-50 or 15W-40 with some STP. Maybe even a 30/40/50W monograde.

Better case would be to rent a U-Haul car dolly and towing it behind the Pilot or a truck. Can't you do an engine swap where the car is?
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by mrdctaylor
Originally Posted by zfasts03
I would bet it is a plugged cat. converter.

I have driven cars that are worn out and low on power. Highway speeds were not the issue.


I just came in to say this.

If the Cat were plugged up enough to increase pressure at the exhaust manifold I would think that would throw a DTC. Plus not only will a bad/hot running Cat throw a DTC, a bad Cat coated in oil won't burn the unspent fuel vapour efficiently and the downstream 02 sensors should report this. And he said he drove the car fine for 2 months after purchase before the problem surfaced, I don't know how the seller could "mask" a bad/failing Cat???

- The oily tailpipe (assuming it's not moisture laden with soot) suggests to me an oil leak via rings or valve seals

- check the PCV. A plugged pcv can increase crankcase pressure causing oil to seep past rings.

- get it compression tested

You're in limp mode for a reason. Trying to drive it like that for extended time is not going to help things and will probably make it worse. I think the U-haul trailer suggestion is a good one but it's your car, do what one must...... just don't get anyone killed because you can't go over 40.


Originally Posted by meep
If it's so bad that 40mph is the comfortable tops, driving it to save money could very likely leave you stranded with a bigger bill. Rent a ryder truck and tow dolly. buy a bus ticket or readeye flight down there. Tow it home not using the pilot. I give 25% odds it can't make the drive back if it's shredded so bad to have such low compression, though I agree, it could be very different. They get hard to start when that worn, plug fouling ever which way, can't idle, etc..


Originally Posted by nthach
I'm wondering how the heck a 2014 Kia is burning oil? I knew of someone who had a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L engine and while they did take it into a quick lube regularly it somehow started burning oil and clogging the cat. It ran like crap until a hole was blown in the cat.

If it was me and you have nothing to lose before a used engine is installed, I'd run 20W-50 or 15W-40 with some STP. Maybe even a 30/40/50W monograde.

Better case would be to rent a U-Haul car dolly and towing it behind the Pilot or a truck. Can't you do an engine swap where the car is?


Thanks for the advice and thought process, guys. Flying back once I get up there and having the car shipped back here by an auto shipper has become a much more attractive idea at this point. I could take tools up there to check minor things, but would have no real room to work, and I could end up going down a lengthy and potentially costly rabbit hole with all of the possibilities that you guys have mentioned....and there could be more than one thing wrong with it. So things could get much worse and more inconvenient before they got getter. And if I did tow it with the pilot, I'd have to buy the coolers, install them, and still pay nearly $700 in gas (if it's $2.60 a gallon along the highway), all while taking the risk on the transmission before I sell it. So yeah, for about $1k in shipping and a $172 flight back, I think that's what I'm going to do. When I get back, I am in no rush, have all the tools or can get them, and can take things one step at a time.
 
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Is a Kia Soul with "lots of miles" and a blown engine still worth $1000? They were only designed to outlive the hamsters that buy them.
 
Originally Posted by Mainia
Sorry, NO WAY are the rings worn out. There is something else wrong.

Originally Posted by zfasts03
I would bet it is a plugged cat. converter.

Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by Mainia
Sorry, NO WAY are the rings worn out. There is something else wrong.

Originally Posted by zfasts03
I would bet it is a plugged cat. converter.
I have driven cars that are worn out and low on power. Highway speeds were not the issue.
+2
A burned exhaust valve will cause low comression on that cylinder, and will also cause the cat to plug, as will running the car with a missfire. Is the check engine light on (or has it been on)? If so, what codes are stored?
A quick and dirty way to check for a plugged cat is with a vacuum gauge.

Originally Posted by Char Baby
Right!
I agree with the others. Make sure your engine does indeed have low compression instead of something else that is causing it to perform poorly. You don't want to start adding chemicals/additives if you don't have to.

If there is in fact blow by, these additives can cause premature catalytic converter failure. Maybe this is what your experiencing(Cat failure) by compensating with some oils have have high(er) ZINC levels. By trying to compensate for scored piston walls, these additives blow by and pollute the Cat. Conv.

Originally Posted by mrdctaylor
Originally Posted by zfasts03
I would bet it is a plugged cat. converter.

I have driven cars that are worn out and low on power. Highway speeds were not the issue.


I just came in to say this.

OP UPDATE: I shipped the car to myself and the knocking was clearly a blown rod, according to a few mechanic friends. I took the engine out and bought a swap engine from a salvage yard and put it in. That engine was bad (blown rod again) but under 'warranty' and I received another one and put it in last week. However after getting it on the road over the weekend, the performance was again an issue...acceleration was still a disaster and it still wouldn't drive above a certain rpm. So I bet on it being the catalytic converter being clogged/damaged and bought a replacement catalytic converter from Rockauto this week, cut out the original one tonight, and put the new one in. That was absolutely the source of the acceleration and rpm performance issue. So I want to say thanks and give props to all those who earlier pointed to the cat, as it was a big reason I bet on it being the issue at this point. The original engine still had the blown rod, but somewhere in the process of driving the engine without oil, and when the rod was blown, the cat was affected and got clogged.
 
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My crazy mother in law stopped by with her new boyfriend who she met in rehab a couple of years ago...no joke. I was out front and when they pulled in I heard the rotors grinding as they parked in the yard by the driveway. Next day there was dead grass from a fuel leak. I didn't mention it was a Ford Aerostar (not windstar). Long story short, they drove that pos to Texas and he stole all her stuff and left in the middle of the night. Had that have been my car that had just passed its warranty I wouldn't have made it to the state line.
 
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You gotta be [censored] me. Meanwhile I'm worried if my car uses an ounce of oil in a few hundred miles.



Originally Posted by Tralever
Originally Posted by Mainia
Sorry, NO WAY are the rings worn out. There is something else wrong.

Originally Posted by zfasts03
I would bet it is a plugged cat. converter.

Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by Mainia
Sorry, NO WAY are the rings worn out. There is something else wrong.

Originally Posted by zfasts03
I would bet it is a plugged cat. converter.
I have driven cars that are worn out and low on power. Highway speeds were not the issue.
+2
A burned exhaust valve will cause low comression on that cylinder, and will also cause the cat to plug, as will running the car with a missfire. Is the check engine light on (or has it been on)? If so, what codes are stored?
A quick and dirty way to check for a plugged cat is with a vacuum gauge.

Originally Posted by Char Baby
Right!
I agree with the others. Make sure your engine does indeed have low compression instead of something else that is causing it to perform poorly. You don't want to start adding chemicals/additives if you don't have to.

If there is in fact blow by, these additives can cause premature catalytic converter failure. Maybe this is what your experiencing(Cat failure) by compensating with some oils have have high(er) ZINC levels. By trying to compensate for scored piston walls, these additives blow by and pollute the Cat. Conv.

Originally Posted by mrdctaylor
Originally Posted by zfasts03
I would bet it is a plugged cat. converter.

I have driven cars that are worn out and low on power. Highway speeds were not the issue.


I just came in to say this.

OP UPDATE: I shipped the car to myself and the knocking was clearly a blown rod, according to a few mechanic friends. I took the engine out and bought a swap engine from a salvage yard and put it in. That engine was bad (blown rod again) but under 'warranty' and I received another one and put it in last week. However after getting it on the road over the weekend, the performance was again an issue...acceleration was still a disaster and it still wouldn't drive above a certain rpm. So I bet on it being the catalytic converter being clogged/damaged and bought a replacement catalytic converter from Rockauto this week, cut out the original one tonight, and put the new one in. That was absolutely the source of the acceleration and rpm performance issue. So I want to say thanks and give props to all those who earlier pointed to the cat, as it was a big reason I bet on it being the issue at this point. The original engine still had the blown rod, but somewhere in the process of driving the engine without oil, and when the rod was blown, the cat was affected and got clogged.
 
Originally Posted by Rmay635703
A CAT rarely fails, a torch and a compressed air wand will make any cat fire back up good as nee



Please expand on this
 
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