Any Alternative To Oily Rust Preventative Undercoatings?

[George7941]

My previous two trucks ( 1982 Mazda B2000, 1986 F150) both ended up with badly rusted floor pans in front of the driver seat,undoubtedly caused by the slushy mess from my boots in the winter. With my present truck I put in extra effort to keep the floor pan dry by using paper under the floor mat and changing the paper at least once a week in the winter. I am pretty confident my floor pan will still be solid when my truck reaches twenty years of age.

Perhaps you could try something similar to keep the footwell dry.

 

[gamefoo21]

Originally Posted by George7941
My previous two trucks ( 1982 Mazda B2000, 1986 F150) both ended up with badly rusted floor pans in front of the driver seat,undoubtedly caused by the slushy mess from my boots in the winter. With my present truck I put in extra effort to keep the floor pan dry by using paper under the floor mat and changing the paper at least once a week in the winter. I am pretty confident my floor pan will still be solid when my truck reaches twenty years of age.

Perhaps you could try something similar to keep the footwell dry.


If aimed at me, the wet is coming in from the rain. Near as I can tell it's getting in through the area behind the strut tower and under the windshield. So its well hidden from view and a place with lots of joints.

I've taken to putting a moisture absorber in the car, but that only does so much.

I definitely have to deal with the surface rust in the foot well from the water getting in. I'm a huge believer in using those big heavy rubber floor mats that can hold a cup or two of water for exactly that reason.

 

[Driz]

Originally Posted by buck91
Quote
Aside from the fact POR requires extreme efforts to save the unused portion I notice it tends to flake off in huge flakes which undoubtedly trap water until they fall off. Give me good old used ATF and petroleum jelly any day and park where the drips dont matter.......


How is your prep? The few times I've used it I did the full three step prep and it stuck like glue. Even has held up well on an old machete blade.




I used to think it was fantastic too now not so sure. All the prep is done was As close to perfection or you can get. In fact I've wondered whether maybe that stuff doesn't stick to clean metal very well and I should've left it more rusty. Of course not a touch of flake ever remained on anything and I hit it with phosphoric acid prior. I don't brag POR up like I used to. It's great for some things and I'm not so sure about the rest. Aside from that when you consider what you have to go through not to waste most of it it's just easier by epox hardened primer Even though it cost a little more you get to use every little bit of the can and it doesn't all harden upon you like POR. I have to keep transferring it to smaller and smaller glass jars sealed plastic wrap or much of it ends up hardening in the can.💸

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by George7941
My previous two trucks ( 1982 Mazda B2000, 1986 F150) both ended up with badly rusted floor pans in front of the driver seat,undoubtedly caused by the slushy mess from my boots in the winter. With my present truck I put in extra effort to keep the floor pan dry by using paper under the floor mat and changing the paper at least once a week in the winter. I am pretty confident my floor pan will still be solid when my truck reaches twenty years of age.

Perhaps you could try something similar to keep the footwell dry.

Weathershield or Husky floor liners will contain the winter slush.

 

[Bluestream]

http://www.kleenflo.com/products/3000R-3001R-3002R-3003R-3010R-3011R-3012R-3013R.html

 

[GaryPoe]

A little late to the party but ive heard of people melting toilet bowl wax rings and spraying it on. Supposedly it doesnt attract as much dirt as oils do (so ive heard). Not sure about self healing characteristics.

 

[P10crew]

3m has a product in aerosol called cavity wax plus. I have never used it but around here the body shops that care give it high praise for use in hidden areas and they have a slick applicator tube kit.

 

[JHZR2]

Nice to see more posting in this thread.

Op, another thought is this: apply more sparingly... inside of closed areas only.

While I get it that the exposed areas get a lot more touches from salt and moisture, they're also easier to clean off and keep an eye on. It's the internal areas, inside of door skins, behind fenders, in enclosed boxed areas, etc. those areas don't need to be applied so thick, and really have a greater criticality to creep into the small crevices and voids.

Maybe avoid how much you spray all over on the exposed undercarriage. I personally limit the spray in those areas, though I do hit bolts, tie rod threads, etc.

And an oily coating to wet the metal, then a waxy coating, then maintenance of the oily coat might be smart on some high wash corrosion prone fasteners. IMO moisture does diffuse through the waxy ones though. So the material below needs to be protected another way too for best protection. Ymmv.

But as I said a few months back, anything is going to be messy if it stays, short of paint.

That said, the black cosmoline in another thread looks interesting for use in high wash areas.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by Trav
I have lived and worked in salt areas for the past 48 years and found only a few product that actually work as good they claim, two are very expensive and require special guns to apply the other is Noxudol 700. Toyota specs Noxudo by name for protecting frames and it is OE on Saab and Volvo cars.
Fluid film is not great and not in the same class as Noxudol. For the undercarriage yearly reapplication is to be expected in cavities three to four years.

https://www.noxudolusa.com/product/noxudol-700-cavity-wax-aerosol/


TEST


A place wants $850 to do my truck. How often do they suggest one treats it with Noxudol? CarWell is yearly for $100.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by Donald
Originally Posted by George7941
My previous two trucks ( 1982 Mazda B2000, 1986 F150) both ended up with badly rusted floor pans in front of the driver seat,undoubtedly caused by the slushy mess from my boots in the winter. With my present truck I put in extra effort to keep the floor pan dry by using paper under the floor mat and changing the paper at least once a week in the winter. I am pretty confident my floor pan will still be solid when my truck reaches twenty years of age.

Perhaps you could try something similar to keep the footwell dry.

Weathershield or Husky floor liners will contain the winter slush.


And other much cheaper ones that have a similar design but are not custom per vehicle.

 

[JTK]

I suppose there's coatings that go on and dry like paint, or there's the dreaded rubberized stuff that Ziebart uses, but other than that, you're either going to get dirty/greasy or you are going to battle rust.

The Krown they apply in the Buffalo NY area dealers seems to apply like spraying WD40 on everything. You don't see or feel much on there, but it's supposedly doing it's thing. I'm sure as the years and applications roll on, the messier it will get.

The Woolwax I've applied to a few vehicles is a much thicker, greasier mess and I kind of love it.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted by JTK
I suppose there's coatings that go on and dry like paint, or there's the dreaded rubberized stuff that Ziebart uses, but other than that, you're either going to get dirty/greasy or you are going to battle rust.

The Krown they apply in the Buffalo NY area dealers seems to apply like spraying WD40 on everything. You don't see or feel much on there, but it's supposedly doing it's thing. I'm sure as the years and applications roll on, the messier it will get.

The Woolwax I've applied to a few vehicles is a much thicker, greasier mess and I kind of love it.


If the product is going to move a little to cover scratches and missed spots it needs to be oily or greasy. If it dried like paint I cannot see how it would do the needed movement.