Redline Shockproof in a stock GM 10 bolt w/ Torsen differential....

[JRHAWK9]

I am thinking of running Redline's Shockproof in my '00 Firehawk. I don't know if this is a good choice and if it is what one to run (superlight, light or heavy)? If it's not a good choice to run it then what do you guys recommend? I don't drag race the car at all. I am just looking for a good all around gear lube that will protect the gears a bit.

I was thinking of mixing some shockproof with Redline's standard gear lube....is it ok to do?

any recommendations??

thanks,
Paul

 

[dailydriver]

I guess you're trying to "save" the 10 bolt by using something to "cushion" the r&p teeth? When I called Redline about this like 5 years ago (I own a 2000 Z28) the tech (don't remember if it was Dave or not) said that it would not serve this purpose. He said even the lightweight stuff was too much and would hurt rwhp/mileage. I would give them a call though and ask what they think now.

But before that, are you positive that you have a T2 Torsen in there?? The Auburn (Pro, I think) was an SLP option on Firehawks, or so I thought. Make sure you do not have an Auburn before putting synthetic in there. T2 Torsen = synthetic A OK, Auburn/Eaton = synthetic a

, good mineral based gear oil only.

 

[JRHAWK9]

no, my rear end is just fine, just looking for the best available gear lube to use. I just put in 3.73's and will be draining the break in lube soon and want to see what I should use.

yeah, I have the Torsen, the Auburn was an option, but I did not get it as I prefer the Torsen.

I am thinking about going the Royal Purple 85/140 route, as that's what is recommended by a local LS1 speed shop and what they put in all of the stuff they work on. Heck, they only sell the 85/140 versions of Royal Purple and Redline.

thanks, as I was thinking it may be too much....

 

[1040 WreckerMan]

I haven’t used the RedLine, but I've run the RP 140 wt and it's held up fine in my jeep. The RP has increased the bearing life easily to a full season plus before I have to dig into something. I know, I should spend the money and put a good set of D60's under it - but who doesn't love smelling old hot gear oil while pulling the R&P in 110dF in the desert?

I've also used 75w140 synthetic in my 01 Ranger with a 8.8 and 4.10 LS and a 4.0 V6 and didn't notice any MPG difference. Did cool the cover down quite a bit (verified by highly calibrated hand).

I wouldn't hesitate to run either of those oils in your application.

 

[dailydriver]

quote:

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Originally posted by JRHAWK9:
no, my rear end is just fine, just looking for the best available gear lube to use. I just put in 3.73's and will be draining the break in lube soon and want to see what I should use.

yeah, I have the Torsen, the Auburn was an option, but I did not get it as I prefer the Torsen.

I am thinking about going the Royal Purple 85/140 route, as that's what is recommended by a local LS1 speed shop and what they put in all of the stuff they work on. Heck, they only sell the 85/140 versions of Royal Purple and Redline.

thanks, as I was thinking it may be too much....

---

Yeah, since you have the T2 you can use anything you like. The RP 85/140 is as good as anything else (or better), so yes I'd give it a try. I guess you've seen that chicane over on LS1tech suggests to use ONLY the heavier weight gear oils in our 10 bolts (or other f body axles/diffs for that matter), although he tends to think that mineral based gear oils are superior in film strength to synthetics, regardless of the diff's requirements. I don't know, he's no tribologist, but claims to be an engineer on Trans Am/various road race teams, and seems to know what he's talking about when it comes to high performance apps.

 

[chucky2]

There's a guy over at www.offroadrangers.com, Ranger Rick I believe, that works for Torsen, and I believe he's stated they usually run 80W-90 in there units until someone like Ford wants to do validation, and then they stick the 75W-140 in there because that's what Ford wants.

Basically what I'm saying is that from what the guy was getting at, the Torsen units really don't care what type of fluid their in...functionally, the do not care.

Chuck

 

[VaderSS]

Functionally, a Torsen does "care" what fluid you run.

For durability, it does not, as long as it's ATF or better.

Torsens were designed to run in ATF, and that gives them the highest Bias achievable, BUT, you have to run the fluid that the ring gear specifies, which is usually a 90 weight are thicker. The thicker the oil, the lower the bias. Limited slip additive also reduces bias.

going from a 90 weight to a 140 weight or adding LSD additive, will reduce the Bias of the Torsen by .2, eg; a 2.0 biased(in 90 weight non LSD oil) Torsen will drop to 1.8 bias with 140 weight oil or if LSD additive is added.

Not a major deal, but it is there...

I prefer Specialty Formulation's lubricants. I'd ask MoleKule which one he reccommends.

 

[dailydriver]

quote:

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Originally posted by 1 FMF:
Problems arising in the rear end won't be because of the oil, it'll be from too much power and a rear-end not strong enough to begin with.

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Ain't that the truth. I might try some Torco RGO anyway, just to make an attempt (however futile it may be), to get that extra 1/4% of ring and pinion protection. This stuff has a little extra dose of moly in it, so, we'll see.

BTW; your SS was a 2000 model year you bought at the end of '99, right? I know that you know the 2000 model year was the switchover from Auburns to Torsen T2s (in the standard, factory, non-SLP/ASC optioned cars, at least).

 

[1 FMF]

i looked into the shockproof lubes a year or 2 ago and concluded they weren't a 'best option' lube.
I had emailed torsen back in 1999 when i bought my 1st SS asking if friction modifier was needed with the torsen differential because my car owner's manual stated it was needed. The answer was what everyone else has said- the torsen will function on any lube, it doesn't 'need' the additive although adding it doesn't hurt, and it's the ring & pinion gear which sets the fluid requirement at GL-5 (your standard gear oil). They did say however that the torsen will have a rusty screw type noise in a tight slow speed turn which is normal; using limited-slip additive will quiet/eliminate the noise. I've run many lubes all without additive and never heard any noises.
I can also attest to the auburn no synthetic requirement. I have the SLP supplement manual and it states in there no synthetic and recommneds quaker state 80w90 mineral gear oil.

The oils I can think of which are typically used are mobil, redline, and Royal Purple. Either 75w90 or 75/80w-140. I wouldn't mix shockproof or even bother with it for the cost, any oil will protect the gears just fine. Problems arising in the rear end won't be because of the oil, it'll be from too much power and a rear-end not strong enough to begin with.