I'm having a great deal of trouble picking an oil for out New 2019 Toyota Highlander. Requirements are 0W-20 FS API SN/ISLAC GF-5. I love SOPUS products and really want PP but the new TGMO has like 800 PPM of Moly and I remember a few years ago Honda had a TSB for oil consumption that recommended a high moly oil to help prevent it. So that takes me to QSUD. Then I look at the new Castrol EDGE wear rating of 6 times the standard for protection and EDGE EP almost 40% less friction than Mobil 1 AP, then I look at Mobil 1 AFE where they tested it for over 800,000 start/stops. I keep going in circles and need help. The wonders here can get to -35 while summers can get up to 115 both Farenheit. I know the ECOBOOST engines run really well on Magnatec and I think the 2GR-FKS has Port and DI but 10k oil changes and a TBN of 7 make me nervous.
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- Thread starter Mathew_Boss
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Valvoline Modern Engine on clearance at AZ right now. My store still has like 10 jugs of 0W-20.
For starters... breathe!...‚.. you came to the right place. We're an oil fanatics support group!
Create a matrix or flow chart of what's most important to you in a lube (tbn, hths, noack, 100c viscosity, total aw addy's count/pkg - you can even assign pts to each value based on importance to you. For example TBN might be assigned 5pts and noack 3) then go one by one eliminating lubes. The lube that checks off the most boxes or has garnered the most points wins!...
Fwiw, looking at one aw addy doesn't ensure/make for the best performing lube from a strictly wear perspective. The base oil is just as, if not more, important. And fwiw, Castrol and Phillips66 (Kendall) swear by Ti. And there is such a thing as diminished returns on addys. Don't quote me on this one but for moly I could swear I read it's around 400ppm.. beyond that it (wear reducing effect) levels out.
Create a matrix or flow chart of what's most important to you in a lube (tbn, hths, noack, 100c viscosity, total aw addy's count/pkg - you can even assign pts to each value based on importance to you. For example TBN might be assigned 5pts and noack 3) then go one by one eliminating lubes. The lube that checks off the most boxes or has garnered the most points wins!...
Fwiw, looking at one aw addy doesn't ensure/make for the best performing lube from a strictly wear perspective. The base oil is just as, if not more, important. And fwiw, Castrol and Phillips66 (Kendall) swear by Ti. And there is such a thing as diminished returns on addys. Don't quote me on this one but for moly I could swear I read it's around 400ppm.. beyond that it (wear reducing effect) levels out.
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XOM or Pennzoil is where I'd be looking for oil for that rig.
You are overthinking this. Get a name brand oil that meets the specs in the owners manual. Get a viscosity in the temp compensated viscosity guide in owners manual.
You can pick any major brand of 0w20 and that Toyota will run a good long time.
Don't get hung up on moly numbers. There are different formulations of molybdenum. The trinuclear moly doesn't need as much to achieve the same effects of the old stuff. Besides, there are other components in the oil that reduce friction.
Pick your favorite brand and go.
Don't get hung up on moly numbers. There are different formulations of molybdenum. The trinuclear moly doesn't need as much to achieve the same effects of the old stuff. Besides, there are other components in the oil that reduce friction.
Pick your favorite brand and go.
Toyota engines don't seem to be picky about the brand of oils however, their owners may be. Find the one that suits you more than the engine. I like oils that keep my engines that little bit quieter such as SOPUS products as you mentioned.
You may want to try the Toyota 0W20 oil for the first few OCI for its Moly content then switch to other brands.
You may want to try the Toyota 0W20 oil for the first few OCI for its Moly content then switch to other brands.
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If i had a brand new 2019 i wouldnt be thinking about extended drains for a little while. A new engine will shed metals during the break in process.
I would probably go a year at least on Havoline ProDS boxes then go from there.
I would probably go a year at least on Havoline ProDS boxes then go from there.
You don't need flow charts or any of that other silliness. Just find one that meets the specs, use it and worry about more important things.
Originally Posted by Fawteen
You don't need flow charts or any of that other silliness. Just find one that meets the specs, use it and worry about more important things.
150% correct.
You don't need flow charts or any of that other silliness. Just find one that meets the specs, use it and worry about more important things.
150% correct.
Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0w-20 is all you need year-round. Its made by Mobil for Toyota to their specs. It's all I use in my Toyota's and I have great Blackstone analysis results.
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+1 on the overthinking on this simple issue. Pick Mobil 1 or PP in the correct viscosity and your engine will last longer than you may even want it to. I like PP myself. Ed
Originally Posted by Fawteen
You don't need flow charts or any of that other silliness. Just find one that meets the specs, use it and worry about more important things.
No, indeed you don't and people don't need to use a 0w20 yet there's a thread a week on that topic. Maybe I'm wrong here but the OP sounds like the kind of guy that a) likes to see it on paper b) could use one and c) knows how to use one. In fact I'd argue that you're using the same (decision making) process, in your head, when you use the specs in your manual to find the oil that matches...but maybe you just don't realize that you are....
You don't need flow charts or any of that other silliness. Just find one that meets the specs, use it and worry about more important things.
No, indeed you don't and people don't need to use a 0w20 yet there's a thread a week on that topic. Maybe I'm wrong here but the OP sounds like the kind of guy that a) likes to see it on paper b) could use one and c) knows how to use one. In fact I'd argue that you're using the same (decision making) process, in your head, when you use the specs in your manual to find the oil that matches...but maybe you just don't realize that you are....
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Originally Posted by PowerSurge
Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0w-20 is all you need year-round. Its made by Mobil for Toyota to their specs. It's all I use in my Toyota's and I have great Blackstone analysis results.
Those UOA I'd like to see I couldn't find any of yours posted.
Toyota Genuine Motor Oil 0w-20 is all you need year-round. Its made by Mobil for Toyota to their specs. It's all I use in my Toyota's and I have great Blackstone analysis results.
Those UOA I'd like to see I couldn't find any of yours posted.
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Fawteen
You don't need flow charts or any of that other silliness. Just find one that meets the specs, use it and worry about more important things.
No, indeed you don't and people don't need to use a 0w20 yet there's a thread a week on that topic. Maybe I'm wrong here but the OP sounds like the kind of guy that a) likes to see it on paper b) could use one and c) knows how to use one. In fact I'd argue that you're using the same (decision making) process, in your head, when you use the specs in your manual to find the oil that matches...but maybe you just don't realize that you are....
Well the normal advice is "use what makes your comfortable" and TBH right now there is no clear winner on paper. I wouldn't be having trouble if PUP 0W-20 wasnt being price gouged. Its $10/Qt on Walmart and Amazon for 0W-20. 5W-20 and 5W-30 are reasonably priced at least at Walmart. I'm really leaning towards Edge EP. I have another post here about how pennzoil doesn't even seem to know what its advertising anymore.
Originally Posted by Fawteen
You don't need flow charts or any of that other silliness. Just find one that meets the specs, use it and worry about more important things.
No, indeed you don't and people don't need to use a 0w20 yet there's a thread a week on that topic. Maybe I'm wrong here but the OP sounds like the kind of guy that a) likes to see it on paper b) could use one and c) knows how to use one. In fact I'd argue that you're using the same (decision making) process, in your head, when you use the specs in your manual to find the oil that matches...but maybe you just don't realize that you are....
Well the normal advice is "use what makes your comfortable" and TBH right now there is no clear winner on paper. I wouldn't be having trouble if PUP 0W-20 wasnt being price gouged. Its $10/Qt on Walmart and Amazon for 0W-20. 5W-20 and 5W-30 are reasonably priced at least at Walmart. I'm really leaning towards Edge EP. I have another post here about how pennzoil doesn't even seem to know what its advertising anymore.
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