Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10W-30 in a Honda 2.4L

Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Your chart puts 0W16 out at about 77F and a 0W30 out at about 95F, unless I read it wrong, or the conversion table was off, and I apologize in advance. I have my doubts about that chart to be honest.


Gosh, I was just using the chart as a visual indicator that 5Wxx and 10Wxx cover about 95% of the same ground above 32*F, and also why I asked why he "needed" a 5W in summer. Whether or not the illustrated ranges are 100% correct, it was a simple answer to a simple question.

5Wxx and 10Wxx of the same grade are functionally identical as far as viscosity is concerned in typical North American temperatures during the summer season. Better?
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Ok, I see your point. But reading that chart can lead someone to think if they're running 0W16 in their new Toyota and temps reach 80F or higher in the summer they'll grenade their engine. Unfortunately a lot of people reading sites like this know just enough to get into trouble, or take what they read as Gospel.
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint

Ok, I see your point. But reading that chart can lead someone to think if they're running 0W16 in their new Toyota and temps reach 80F or higher in the summer they'll grenade their engine. Unfortunately a lot of people reading sites like this know just enough to get into trouble, or take what they read as Gospel.

True and the sites putting out these charts do a poor job of explaining them, just what they mean. As I said in another thread, too much info in the hands of your avg motorist is a bad thing.... (case in point, how many people are unable to use the chart in their owners manual?..a lot)..my guess is that is how 5w30 became the de facto standard for N. American vehicles. It takes out the guesswork/removes the consumer from the selection process, as there are very few places in N. America where a 5/30 isn't suitable.
 
Originally Posted by nascarnation
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by nascarnation
Obviously the economics of this doesn't work (ie it costs about 6 bucks per OCI to top up).
So I assume you're worried the oil won't get checked and it will blow up?

Catalytic converters are expensive - CA is pretty much OEM only.


Hard to believe a quart every 2000 miles bothers a cat. I've got clunkers (admittedly not Cal emissions rated) that have used a quart a thousand for a long time without issues.

With modern SM/SN/SN+ rated oils with lower Zn/P/S levels, the risk of killing a cat via chemical poisoning of the cat's wash coat is greatly diminished. There's a reason why most high-mileage oils have reformulated to meet SN+ specs but use a different means to provide antiwear protection such as doubling down on Mo or adding Ti.
 
Originally Posted by ThirdeYe
My 07 burns a quart every 1k. Most likely due to rings. Watching this thread.
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Maybe try replacing the pcv valve with an oem one if it hasn't been changed in the last 100k or has an aftermarket one installed. I'd also try a conventional/syn-blend 5w30 like Valvoline or Formual Shell from Home Depot/Menards.
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Honda should take a lesson from Mazda and figure out why their engines don't consume any oil. I've had (3) 3's, and none of them ever consumed any oil at all.
 
K24s used to be thought of as practically bulletproof on these here forums. I guess the polish has come off the turd.
 
Originally Posted by Brons2
K24s used to be thought of as practically bulletproof on these here forums. I guess the polish has come off the turd.


They are but they also consume oil.
 
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Originally Posted by ThirdeYe
My 07 burns a quart every 1k. Most likely due to rings. Watching this thread.
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Maybe try replacing the pcv valve with an oem one if it hasn't been changed in the last 100k or has an aftermarket one installed. I'd also try a conventional/syn-blend 5w30 like Valvoline or Formual Shell from Home Depot/Menards.
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I've replaced the PCV valve already. The old one seemed fine and the new one made no difference. I've tried many different brands of oil/filters and different weights as well. All burn consistently. I'm fairly sure it's the rings being stuck, which doesn't surprise me considering these are known for ring issues and oil consumption issues. As my 621,000 mile 07 can attest, they are still extremely reliable when topped off.
 
I don't understand these K42 oil using issues. The three K24 powered Hondas in my family use zero oil. Is it from some owners doing those 10K oil changes,gumming up the rings? I've never owned an oil user.
 
Both my 06 and 07 has oil consumption problem also. But regardless of that, they still last over 200k+ miles no problems.
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
I don't understand these K42 oil using issues. The three K24 powered Hondas in my family use zero oil. Is it from some owners doing those 10K oil changes,gumming up the rings? I've never owned an oil user.

You probably to oil changes on time and no grime on your rings.
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
I don't understand these K42 oil using issues. The three K24 powered Hondas in my family use zero oil. Is it from some owners doing those 10K oil changes,gumming up the rings? I've never owned an oil user.


You change the oil every 3k miles on full synthetic so they don't have any time to consume oil.
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There are marine outboard engine aerosol and liquid combustion chamber cleaners which are designed to remove carbon and loosen rings. Yamaha has Ring Free, Johnrude had Engine Tuner, Valvetech sells one also. Not sure about catalytic converter compatibility but at $10-15 it might be worth a shot. Warm it up, pull plugs and spray. Rotate motor and repeat. Wait a couple hours or overnight and then go for an Italian tune-up ride. A can will provide a couple applications easily. Good luck, John
 
I'll be following this thread closely. My Accord was buring a quart every 3k for a little while (had seen conventional dealer fill it's whole life prior to me). With a few 7-10k intervals on M1 EP 0w20 (and a bunch of M1 HM 10w40 makeup oil), it slowed down. Finally thought to change the PCV valve, 2k without losing a drop so far, fingers crossed, the thing may be cured.
 
Originally Posted by SatinSilver
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
I don't understand these K42 oil using issues. The three K24 powered Hondas in my family use zero oil. Is it from some owners doing those 10K oil changes,gumming up the rings? I've never owned an oil user.


You change the oil every 3k miles on full synthetic so they don't have any time to consume oil.
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Does not help. That is my OCI regimen.
 
Originally Posted by benhen77
I'll be following this thread closely. My Accord was buring a quart every 3k for a little while (had seen conventional dealer fill it's whole life prior to me). With a few 7-10k intervals on M1 EP 0w20 (and a bunch of M1 HM 10w40 makeup oil), it slowed down. Finally thought to change the PCV valve, 2k without losing a drop so far, fingers crossed, the thing may be cured.


Changing the PCV valve does not solve the problem. The problem are the piston rings.
 
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by benhen77
I'll be following this thread closely. My Accord was buring a quart every 3k for a little while (had seen conventional dealer fill it's whole life prior to me). With a few 7-10k intervals on M1 EP 0w20 (and a bunch of M1 HM 10w40 makeup oil), it slowed down. Finally thought to change the PCV valve, 2k without losing a drop so far, fingers crossed, the thing may be cured.


Changing the PCV valve does not solve the problem. The problem are the piston rings.


So he went from consuming oil, and changed oil and PCV valve - and now it doesn't consume oil....but he has made a mistake....It should be consuming oil - because you said that's not it?

- very confusing logic, to say the least. - Should we at least wait until its consuming oil again? [censored]
 
Originally Posted by tundraotto
Originally Posted by painfx
Originally Posted by benhen77
I'll be following this thread closely. My Accord was buring a quart every 3k for a little while (had seen conventional dealer fill it's whole life prior to me). With a few 7-10k intervals on M1 EP 0w20 (and a bunch of M1 HM 10w40 makeup oil), it slowed down. Finally thought to change the PCV valve, 2k without losing a drop so far, fingers crossed, the thing may be cured.


Changing the PCV valve does not solve the problem. The problem are the piston rings.


So he went from consuming oil, and changed oil and PCV valve - and now it doesn't consume oil....but he has made a mistake....It should be consuming oil - because you said that's not it?

- very confusing logic, to say the least. - Should we at least wait until its consuming oil again? [censored]


He's talking about his (painfx)'s cars, not benhen77's car where a PCV valve DID cure his problem. Painfx changed his and it didn't make a difference.
 
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