0W 20 in place of 5W 30 in First Gen CRV?

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Can I use 0W 20 in my 1999 CRV, which calls for 5W30? I use Mobil 1 oil, and my other late model Hondas use 0W20. I live in Northern Wisconsin.
 
Why? It likely has plenty of miles and will do nothing but consume that thin oil like water! Those first gen B series motors would run well on thicker oils and not consume nearly as much.
 
The CR-V wasn't approved for 0w-20 oil until the 2002 model year.



Honda-Oil-Chart 2013.jpg
 
Originally Posted by dippschtick
0w30


This was my thought as well. Better low-temperature performance without giving up (much, if any) protection at operating temperature. I use 0w20 in the winter on my vehicles which call for 5w20. It seems to make the cold starts at -35*C a little less painful.
 
Do a 3-month long oil interval, December 1 to March 15 with 0w-20, then change to any 5w30 you want for the whole rest of the year. Nothing flows like a 0w20 in N. Wisconsin in the winter. Sump temperatures are a bit lower that time of year even on trips after warm up. Mobil1 AFE 0w-20 or any brand is OK, then 5w30 for 8.5 months, repeat.
Proof would be nice, instead of people just chattering away here.
Kendall 5w20 (the 20 part is the hot part, and HTHS about 2.7 like a 0w20) got a great wear rating on the Sequence IVA wear test, 14 microns in the xw30 engine:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1700629
Here are excellent wear results with 0w20 run on an engine that normally gets 10w30, than any good dexos1 0w20 should get close to:

amsoil0w20IVA.jpg
 
It will not hurt a thing other than consume oil more than now. I run 0w-20 in my 193k mile, 2002 Silverado 5.3 that calls for 5w-30. UOA's didn't change and I tow a 4klbs trailer.
 
Will your engine explode? No
Should you go out of your way to use a 0w20 when 5w30 has been working fine for years? Also, no.

If you have an enormous stash of 0w20 to use, go for it.
 
Last edited:
More facts because this thread seems to need some more instead of speculation:
M1 AFE 0w20 is 140x too thick at -5 F, while M1 5w30 is 230x too thick (hot running viscosity 10 cSt as the basis).
Which do you want to start your engine with at -5 F in N. Wisconsin?
 
Originally Posted by paoester
More facts because this thread seems to need some more instead of speculation:
M1 AFE 0w20 is 140x too thick at -5 F, while M1 5w30 is 230x too thick (hot running viscosity 10 cSt as the basis).
Which do you want to start your engine with at -5 F in N. Wisconsin?

Both would be pumpable and neither one is detrimental to the engine.

The question should be about the MOFT at operating temperature, not about starting at -5F.
 
Save some money and not use M1 for the CR-V!

If it consumes oil now, find the cheapest 5w30 you can find.

I remember running Schaeffers 15w40 for a few OCIs in my 98 CR-V back 10 years ago.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by paoester
More facts because this thread seems to need some more instead of speculation:
M1 AFE 0w20 is 140x too thick at -5 F, while M1 5w30 is 230x too thick (hot running viscosity 10 cSt as the basis).
Which do you want to start your engine with at -5 F in N. Wisconsin?


If the oil flows, it doesn't really matter ... positive displacement pump will move oil.

The 5w is going to hit the cams maybe a 1/2 second slower. Maybe.
 
Originally Posted by geeman789
Originally Posted by paoester
More facts because this thread seems to need some more instead of speculation:
M1 AFE 0w20 is 140x too thick at -5 F, while M1 5w30 is 230x too thick (hot running viscosity 10 cSt as the basis).
Which do you want to start your engine with at -5 F in N. Wisconsin?


If the oil flows, it doesn't really matter ... positive displacement pump will move oil.

The 5w is going to hit the cams maybe a 1/2 second slower. Maybe.



Lets try milliseconds maybe.
 
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