Highlander... first oil change

[wallyuwl]

Have s new 2019 Highlander and getting parts I need for the first oil change. 3.5L engine, SE trim.

Do these have a rubber or metal oil drain plug gasket? Do they need to be replaced each time (if metal)? Know what size or best place to buy?

Thanks.

 

[CT8]

Go to the Toyota dealer and buy oem ,ask the parts guy. A great parts guy is an asset.

 

[edwardh1]

any crush washer works great - fiber one are greater, Toyota oem I think is fiber and really feel great when tightening them, soft -soft -crush, stopped-------- but Dorman sells aftermarket ones- look out transmission drain plug on my o4 is different size than engine oil plug.
more info on toyota nation web site.
you can buy a bag of 10 oem from amazon. local dealer would give you one but then they started selling then

 

[oilstudent24]

I would replace each time. I have an older version of your 3.5 V6. I think mine are Fiber as they are from Toyota. They are maybe a dollar each or less.

 

[JeffKeryk]

You can buy a bunch at a time from Amazon. It is always nice to have a stash on hand.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by CT8
Go to the Toyota dealer and buy oem ,ask the parts guy. A great parts guy is an asset.



Yep, got a bag of them for the 'Runner and it's under $10.

 

[Gebo]

Safe, cheap insurance. Get the Toyota OEM ones. Some I have purchased from Lexus are blue and some are black. I buy bags of them.

 

[JMJNet]

My Sienna have a metal with some rubber looking covering the metal.

IMO, you should worry more on the oil filter change, not sure if the 2019 still uses the cartridge instead of back to can filter.
The cartridge is not difficult but it needs a cap oil wrench to open the canister.

 

[Railrust]

I know this isn't "cool", but after spending years replacing my oil plug gaskets, one day I decided to give it a try and just keep the old gasket for a little longer...it's been 15 years since I've even thought about changing a oil plug gasket now. Never one single issue/drop.

And my last oil change on one of my new vehicles I installed a fumoto valve...we'll see how that goes.

On a Toyota I'd be more concerned with the oil filter housing - I'd change it over to an aluminum housing and scrap the plastic one.

 

[Mainia]

Originally Posted by Railrust
I know this isn't "cool", but after spending years replacing my oil plug gaskets, one day I decided to give it a try and just keep the old gasket for a little longer...it's been 15 years since I've even thought about changing a oil plug gasket now. Never one single issue/drop.

And my last oil change on one of my new vehicles I installed a fumoto valve...we'll see how that goes.

On a Toyota I'd be more concerned with the oil filter housing - I'd change it over to an aluminum housing and scrap the plastic one.



I had a hobby Audi repair shop for 6 years and did most oil changes for 40 customers and I change only 3-4 oil plug gaskets in those 6 years. I always amazes me on how people get all anal on really a petty item that is rarely a problem. A new one every time.....yea. But back then most were copper. I still had some aluminum.

 

[toneydoc]

Doesn't Toyota vehicles come with maintenance included for 2 years or 25k miles?

 

[Nick1994]

I maintain my aunt's 16' Avalon with the 2GRFE.

I don't remember there being a crush washer? I just put the drain plug back on, no leaks.

Don't forget the buy the oil filter wrench for it. The small end you take off with a 3/8" ratchet extension is for sticking the plastic tool in that you get with the filter, that drains the filter assembly. There's a little rubber o ring for that. And a big one for the housing. Not too bad.

I like Wix oil filters, but they don't fit all that well in this application. They're loose.

 

[CrackyWainwright]

If your new Highlander has the same oil filter housing as our 2015 Highlander V6, you and two more strong men won't be able to loosen it. It tightens itself like a @#$%^&%%$!! over the course of an OCI. The last time I tried to change our Highlander oil, it took putting the vehicle on a lift and a man with -- no kidding -- a 5 foot breaker bar to loosen the metal oil filter housing.

 

[supton]

If it is the cannister type, then don't overtighten it. I just bring it to snug and call it done. I know there is a torque spec but really, the o-ring has so much drag that it's not going to walk itself back out. When I feel it bottom out is when I stop.

I buy OEM filters on line, by the case, and they come with the crush washer.