Adding TCW3 to Gas Tank?

Originally Posted by Bonz
Is that Chevron gas e10 or 100% gas?

I ran TCW3 in my ZRX1200 for a number of years. Pulled the head to install pistons, and the backside of the intake valves were just thick with carbon deposit buildup. I will be honest and say that I am guilty of the "if a little is good a little more can't hurt" philosophy and I'm sure I had too much going through it and it accumulated.

After cleaning everything up and running it for two years with the new pistons, I can look at the back of the intake valves when I have the carbs off and they are clean. I put one ounce in about every other tank, 5 gallon tank.


So 1 ounce every other tank, means 1 ounce per 5 gallon of tank and then wait until the following tank refill?
 
Look closely … If it worked just a wee bit better it would have removed that stuff inside the letters …
CSI said so
 
The tank hits reserve with 1.6 gallons remaining on a 5 gallon tank, with a verified usable 4.6 gallons based on running out on reserve as I pulled into a gas station. I add 1 oz every other time I fill up so that means a little bit is left in between tanks. I believe that helps counter any effects of ethanol on the fuel system as much as anything.

Over the winter months when the bike is not ridden as often I really believe it becomes a good stabilizer and I am sure to keep about 1 oz per 5 gallons in the bike at all times. Witness that 2-stroke engines in the chainsaw and weed whacker sit for 6 months and start up easily year to year. There's something about oil in the gas that is favorable to storage.

Now that I'm not adding more than an ounce every five gallons on every other fill I have no deposits developing on the back of the valves. I'm not attributing the cleanliness to using the oil, per se, but to using it in a proper dosage and not overdoing it. To me it's more than cleaning, it's the overall fuel system conditioning.

There will be times I'm on the road and I put a thousand miles on the bike and it'll be three or four tanks before I put any back in. I'm not so caught up in this that I carry the oil with me to add at every fill or every other fill while on the road.

As said above, the intended use is for a stabilizer and also fuel system conditioner and any engine cleaning effects are a bonus. I do believe that there are residual effects from the oil with respect to coating the fuel system so every other tank makes sense to me. Others may vary, and I know there are lots of good success stories.
 
Redline SI-1. It's a petroleum based cleaner, so probably also adds some lubrication to the gasoline. Redline SI-1 cleans very well.
 
When my jug of Lucas fuel treatment is gone I plan to use TCW3 as a fuel additive in the motorcycles in the ratio 1oz oil to 5 gallons gas. Will try to remember to post my results
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted by red7404
a good way to get upper lube on the top side of the valves is to use this product. www.ampcolubes.com.

I'm still confused as to what it is exactly that isn't receiving proper lubrication without a UCL. If things are not properly lubricated won't they fail in very short order? How do all the engines like mine make it to over 400K without this device/lubricant?
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by red7404
a good way to get upper lube on the top side of the valves is to use this product. www.ampcolubes.com.

I'm still confused as to what it is exactly that isn't receiving proper lubrication without a UCL. If things are not properly lubricated won't they fail in very short order? How do all the engines like mine make it to over 400K without this device/lubricant?


What interests me about that product is not the UCL benefits, but the intake valve deposit control benefits.

Would MMO, in mist form, injected into the intake actually reduce intake valve deposits?
 
Originally Posted by webfors
What interests me about that product is not the UCL benefits, but the intake valve deposit control benefits.

Would MMO, in mist form, injected into the intake actually reduce intake valve deposits?

ASTM D5500 and ASTM D6201 test deposit formation on intake valves. Maybe ask the MMO company for the results of those standardized tests? Some additive companies have modified these tests to determine the ability of their additive to clean already formed deposits. Again, maybe MMO has done the same?
 
berlyn said:
Would this work in EFI Bikes as well?
Click to expand...
My concern also. I don’t know how the EFI would handle the heavier oil molecules. If I have any left over/out of date 2 stroke gas mix, I always use it in my carbureted lawn equipment, never in anything with EFI. As usual YMMV.
 
IMO, let's think about this with respect to atomization. TCW3 has been used as an additive in fuel injected cars and trucks for a LONG time. I add it to my fuel injected EFI cars regularly as I feel it helps protect the fuel system from whatever affects ethanol may have. Added benefit is the UCL function, not the main reason for use.

To my mind, if atomization was an issue, carbs would be having issues, which they do not, based on experience with my bikes and corroborating that experience with reading up on TCW3 on the forum.

Use it if you choose. A caveat that comes to mind would be don't go the route of adding more (if one ounce is good, two ounces can't be bad...) than what has become the general recommendation. That could lead to increasing intake valve deposits instead of a potentially cleaning effect. That last thought is just that, so can't show it has lead to deposits, just a thought that's all.
 
I add 1oz of TCW3 to my 5 gallon gas cans whenever I fill them at the pump. it gets used in the lawnmower, generators and also the motorcycles. I make sure to add both stabil and TCW3 to both motorcycles before putting them to sleep for the winter. Both bikes are fuel injected.
 
sk_pete said:
good question. not everybody has access to it.
Click to expand...
One very good reason is deposit control. One requirement for TCW3 oil is that it has no ash, (no metals or other anti wear additive like regular motor oil has which eventually accumulate and create deposits. FD oil is usually designated "low ash" which makes it a better lubricant for higher heat higher rpm engines, but with more deposits.

For vehicle engines and engines with catalytic converters you want TCW3 because it will burn off completely and not poison the cats in the long term.
 
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