Got my kreen

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I ordered last week and got it a few days later. Weird company to say the least but hopefully it will solve or help my 09 altima and it's oil consumption, I have nothing to lose. I'm in ohio and my sons got the car at his school in Illinois, so once I figure out logistically to make this work I'll report back. I think by the sooty tailpipe that I'll run it in both the oil and gas and see what happens.
 
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I think by the sooty tailpipe that I'll run it in both the oil and gas and see what happens.


My F350 had a terrible timing-chain rattle on a cold start when I first bought it. I suspect it was due to a clogged oil passage, and treated it with Kreen. I followed the directions (some in the oil, some in the gas) and within a few days of daily-driving the noise went away. That was almost 10 years ago and the truck is still running good.

I still remember what that oil looked like when I drained it...very dark brown, almost black.
 
Thanks this reminds me... Getting ready to add some Kreen to the Corolla. I figure I'll run for the last 1k of this OCI just for grins. I love Kreen!
 
Originally Posted by AntsinmyEyes
You should try to do a piston soak with it


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I'm probably going to if the initial process doesn't work, I actually got two quarts. The direction for a "kreen purge" on the can are confusing. "Add one ounce into each cylinder, replace plugs and turn the engine over a few times then let set" does that sound right? Seems like the plugs would fouled or maybe not?
 
I am a true believer in Kreen……..both the 1998 and the 1999 Corolla's in my sig were "rescue" cars and did suffer with the common problem of oil burning common with this Generation of Corolla. Both received a procedure consisting of a piston soak with an additional dose to both the oil and gas.....needless to say, both these vehicles don't have any oil burning issues whatsoever.
(FYI: My piston soak consisted of an ounce in all cylinders, rotating the crankshaft, then adding an additional 2 ounces in the cylinder. Let it sit overnight, crank the engine over with the plugs removed, insert plugs and start. Sit back and enjoy the smoke show! )
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Originally Posted by D1dad
I'm probably going to if the initial process doesn't work, I actually got two quarts. The direction for a "kreen purge" on the can are confusing. "Add one ounce into each cylinder, replace plugs and turn the engine over a few times then let set" does that sound right? Seems like the plugs would fouled or maybe not?

Watch this video👇.. it's essentially the same process, except you're using kreen instead of Seafoam. I personally have always used Berrymans for combustion chamber cleaning.

Put the plug(s) back on, just a few turns, before cranking in case the product wants to shoot out (something this guy didn't do but he did pour a lot of Seafoam in to begin with so..) and disconnect the coils so you don't get spark in any of the cylinders.

Do you know for a fact that you have poor compression?
 
Originally Posted by D1dad
Did you run it the last 1k miles?


It achieved its intended effect after a few days, so after another week or so I drained it. In all I probably put ~500 miles on with Kreen.
 
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Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by D1dad
I'm probably going to if the initial process doesn't work, I actually got two quarts. The direction for a "kreen purge" on the can are confusing. "Add one ounce into each cylinder, replace plugs and turn the engine over a few times then let set" does that sound right? Seems like the plugs would fouled or maybe not?

Watch this video👇.. it's essentially the same process, except you're using kreen instead of Seafoam. I personally have always used Berrymans for combustion chamber cleaning.

Put the plug(s) back on, just a few turns, before cranking in case the product wants to shoot out (something this guy didn't do but he did pour a lot of Seafoam in to begin with so..) and disconnect the coils so you don't get spark in any of the cylinders.

Do you know for a fact that you have poor compression?



I've never compression tested it. I bought the car new or almost and it's consumed oil from day 1, although not enough to satisfy Nissan. I changed the plugs at 90k and they looked fantastic so that rules out the precat issue that plagued the early qr25. The car runs rich as evidence of the tailpipe soot but runs like a Swiss Watch. I did the pcv a few times with oem and aftermarket and no change. Formula shell uses the least oil while Mobil 1 HM used the most. I bought several jugs of pp 10-30 on clearance so that's what it's getting for the foreseeable future. Ticks me off because the car is immaculate but uses oil, more at highway speeds, around 3/4 of a quart per 1k but hardly any around town. I pretty much gave the car to my son for college as well as top off oil so it is what it is at this point. The funny thing is after a fresh oil change it uses not a drop for the first 1k and then starts dropping like a rock?
 
Originally Posted by D1dad

The funny thing is after a fresh oil change it uses not a drop for the first 1k and then starts dropping like a rock?

Years ago I bought a clean beater van for work, the goal was to use if for a year then order a new van. Anyway it did exactly what you described here. My guess is the oil has thinned enough in the first 1,000 miles to start being consumed. I bumped up a grade and it slowed the consumption down a little.
 
Originally Posted by D1dad

I've never compression tested it. I bought the car new or almost and it's consumed oil from day 1, although not enough to satisfy Nissan. I changed the plugs at 90k and they looked fantastic so that rules out the precat issue that plagued the early qr25. The car runs rich as evidence of the tailpipe soot but runs like a Swiss Watch. I did the pcv a few times with oem and aftermarket and no change. Formula shell uses the least oil while Mobil 1 HM used the most. I bought several jugs of pp 10-30 on clearance so that's what it's getting for the foreseeable future. Ticks me off because the car is immaculate but uses oil, more at highway speeds, around 3/4 of a quart per 1k but hardly any around town. I pretty much gave the car to my son for college as well as top off oil so it is what it is at this point. The funny thing is after a fresh oil change it uses not a drop for the first 1k and then starts dropping like a rock?

I wonder if the conventional (shell) did better due to it's thickening up more as it "ages" than the synthetic M1 HiMi?? Synthetics have better thermal and oxidative stability than a conventional. Try a conventional HiMi..5qts of SuperTech conventional HiMi is like $13. Or even Havoline conventional HiMi is like $14 for 6qts. Your rings and valve stem seals could benefit from the HiMi formula. Or how about the catch can idea?? If the oils not slipping past your rings or stem seals, it's gotta be coming from the PCV system.
 
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Well I haven't made it to my sons college yet to put this stuff in but I did use a few drops in a 13 yr old stihl edger that wouldn't stay running. Cleared it up instantly. I'm impressed. Does anyone know if I can mail this via usps?
 
No doubt that Kreen is good stuff - I just believe something like Sea Foam is easier to obtain (I use it the last few hundred miles of an OCI per directions) .
 
Kreen is it.
Used on a 96 E300 diesel with almost 300k miles ran 500 miles before oil change and in fuel tank. Morning injector knock gone, blow-by gone and sounded much better. Oil drained out looked like molasses.
 
We have used kreen in many different types of engines. It is the bomb for sure.

Always keep a can on hand, and use it in both the gas and the oil per instructions. In some older, high mileage vehicles it is nearly magical....
 
About 600 miles in right now with it in the gas and oil. I put the stuff in PP 10-30 before my son took a 450 mile trip back to school and according to where the dipsticks at, the kreen either burnt off or it used a half quart. I'm gonna have him get the oil changed at Walmart, against my better judgment, at 750-1000 miles. I have another quart so if this doesn't help then I'll do a piston soak.
 
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