Battery Change Due!??

Not sure why they had to make a battery change such a process; all I've ever done is just swapped in Walmart's parking lot.
 
Originally Posted by miden851

And my main concern is to keep OLM and infotainment settings intact in the process


The way we do it on all our various Honda models which have a steep learning process for several ECU controlled settings if power is totally lost (avoid!) , is to connect a OBD2 (made by Solar) plug power connector to a backup battery near the gas pedal inside the cabin. Then we swap out battery and do not lose any internally stored settings for any system.

On Amazon, search for:
SOLAR ESA30 OBD II Memory Saver Connector
Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry
 
Ditto that. I think a lot of the data is stored in the computer.

Originally Posted by ecotourist
I've always just pulled out the old battery and put in a new one. That seems to have worked out fine. The memory (such as it is) seems to have remained intact.

What am I missing?
 
Originally Posted by henni
Originally Posted by miden851

And my main concern is to keep OLM and infotainment settings intact in the process


The way we do it on all our various Honda models which have a steep learning process for several ECU controlled settings if power is totally lost (avoid!) , is to connect a OBD2 (made by Solar) plug power connector to a backup battery near the gas pedal inside the cabin. Then we swap out battery and do not lose any internally stored settings for any system.

Okay I'll get an OBD 2 plug in memory protector. I plan to use it with the battery charger I already have.

https://www.amazon.ca/LPHUS-Connect...&hvtargid=pla-729987509984&psc=1

The garbled instructions show it having 12 Volts applied (red to red & black to black), the check polarity light comes on, then plugging it into the OBD2 port.

Aside from being sure you have the polarity right, plugging in a powered connection seems a little risky. Presumably you could check the polarity, disconnect 1 lead to the charger (so it's cold, but still connected correctly), plug it in, then reconnect the disconnected lead to the charger. That seems safer (for the electronics) to me.

What do you think?
 
Originally Posted by Richie
Ditto that. I think a lot of the data is stored in the computer.

Originally Posted by ecotourist
I've always just pulled out the old battery and put in a new one. That seems to have worked out fine. The memory (such as it is) seems to have remained intact.

What am I missing?



A lot of the memory is flash memory and will stay with no power.

My guess is things that are lost when all power is removed are things the vehicle manufacturer actually wanted to provide a way to start again from factory default.
 
Thank you all for great advice here!

Little bit of update; I got the OBD cable and checked on the cells inside of the battery; however, the cable is too short for my needs, [censored] and three out of 6 cells are out of fluid; now I need to find an extension for the cord and I was wondering if I use some distilled water to fill up the cells would that save the battery a bit longer

I thank for all your support each and everyone and I have few more images

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Originally Posted by bubbatime
If you google larger battery upgrade CRV, you can find a tutorial. Its super easy. The battery tray cost about $10 straight from Honda, then you can use the V6 battery which is much larger, about 50% larger and should last longer with more amperage. Plus the bigger battery might be cheaper, as the 51R size Honda batteries are usually over $100 easy. You can use a group 24 battery, which you can get for $49 at Walmart.



This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Exactly the thing to do.... And the 24f Valuepower battery from Walmart is a East Penn 624fmf battery... A really good deal. That battery weighs 41 pounds and has a 3 year free replacement warranty at Federated Auto and is a 2 year free replacement warranty from O Reilly's... And for $48.88...
 
Just changed the battery in my Mercedes today. I have the radio code in the owner's manual just in case. I also put a jump pack on the jump start studs in the engine bay. You can get the backup/jump start packs that plug into the cigarette lighter, but make sure that is a source of power without the key turned on! Make sure the terminals are insulated as you change the batteries. I stick a rubber glove over each of them just in case one flops onto some it shouldn't. Save the sparks and smoke for Lucas electrics.
 
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