Best Oil Change Ramps ??

I would consider about Discount ramps, cause I've been changing oil dozen times and all kind of inspections under my car and cars of my friends as well, and when my old ramps was not so much, I've thought about why not find out more on Onternet, and after short googling process I found a great article, that was explaining all the pros and cons about all ramps.
 
Sure there are lots of cheap, heavy car ramps options, but the thread title was "Best Oil Change Ramps??' So all you need to do is check out the best choice on the Race Ramps website that has many options to get things safely off the ground. Good tools can be worth the cost a lot of times. After all, look at all of the money you're saving doing your undercar maintenance!
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https://www.raceramps.com/
 
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Those are strange to me. Please take a picture of your vehicle on these ramps after you've driven up them and then jacked it up higher. I hope your wheel chocks and parking brake are real good !
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Those are strange to me. Please take a picture of your vehicle on these ramps after you've driven up them and then jacked it up higher. I hope your wheel chocks and parking brake are real good !

I had similar thoughts. I was thinking more in terms of using 4 of them for things like rustproofing, exhaust work, a clutch job, etc. moving around jacking all four corners a little at a time to get the desired height.
 
Would depend on the vehicle but I think it would be tricky to get most up on (4) ramps at the same time.
 
Originally Posted by hallstevenson
Would depend on the vehicle but I think it would be tricky to get most up on (4) ramps at the same time.


Doing diffs, xfer cases, and trans … I have done 4 ramps many times with my 4WD vehicles … but since my 2WD's are mostly FWD, it's all in the front end on those. I measured the ATF drained.
The odd one is the Charger. To do the rear end we used the uphill part of the driveway and the back tires came up to put the car right at level.

Never tried 4 ramps on a 2WD
 
They came yesterday. The boxes were perforated, cut and torn, and retaped in numerous places. And were made from that cheap, Chinese corrugated cardboard that you can easily tear apart with your bare hands. But the ramps themselves were fine, considering they started their journey somewhere in China. (God knows where).

The only problem was the safety locking pins they included, that go through the telescoping box metal on the jacking plate were missing on one of them. That turned out to be somewhat of a blessing in disguise. Because as it turns out, they drilled the holes through the box metal large enough to easily accept 3/8" dia. pins, but they included 5/16 dia. Why I have no idea. So I went down to Ace Hardware and picked up 4, 3/8" dia. Clevis pins 3" long, and I was good to go.

Overall they look well made. All the welds are heavily fused, and the units appear to be good and solid. And they're light enough so they're not difficult to move around. The jacking plates come right off once you remove the pins, which makes them even lighter to get into position. The hydraulic jacks mounted in the units are rated for 5 tons each, work smoothly, and are easy to raise and lower.

With the jacks all the way down, (the position they're in when you drive the vehicle up on them), they raise the bottom of the front tire 9-1/2" high off the ground. With the jacks pumped up high enough to get the locking pins into the holes at the highest position, they raise the bottom of the front tire to 14-1/2". I doubt I'll even have to use the jacks on either my Jeep or my truck.

With my Toyota that's another story. Because of all that dam low plastic fascia they have wrapped all around the front end, I can't just drive it up on to these ramps. They won't clear. So I'm going to have to place a couple of 2 X 6's in front of the ramps, and drive it on from there. Then it should be fine. I was more or less expecting this, but what a PITA. That car sits so low I really think I'd have the same problem with ANY ramp. And even if I found a set, I doubt it would get the car high enough to get under it without incorporating some type of jack.

I'll try to post some pictures of them later on. But so far I like what I see. I'm going to pick up a couple of rolls of that rubberized tool box drawer liner to set them on, so they'll have less tendency to slide along the floor when I drive up on them.
 
Well, our Fusion Hybrid has a pretty low airdam … but with Pine-O-Ramps you can make that first board a bit longer to not only pick up on the car early … but so that the tire pins the ramps and it does not slide.

When I mentioned using 4 ramps at times … I'd also add that I can do a couple vehicles with only one ramp since the filter and plug are on the Driver side. I'd not even think of that on plastic.

I find the ramp/jack interesting … but with my fleet I'm probably not in need.
 
I should add from a safety standpoint, the way these things are designed, that once the car is up on the ramp, sitting on the jack plate, nothing is supported by welds. It's all applied end force to box steel. The jacks are mounted to a plate that sits right on the floor. So there is zero danger of anything collapsing once you have the car up in the air, with the pins inserted into the locking holes. If you don't use the pins, the box metal sits directly on the steel plate underneath it.

As I mentioned if I do jack it up, I replaced the Chinese 5/16" steel locking pins with Hillman 3/8" diameter. Not that there is much if any chance a front end of a car would shear 4, 5/16" pins. But it's nice to have as large dia. of a pin as possible.
 
So yesterday I did my Fall oil and filter changes on all 3 vehicles. The new ramps worked nice on both my truck, and my Jeep. But they were pretty much a bust for use with my Toyota Camry. They just don't offer enough drive on clearance for my comfort zone.

I probably could have gotten away with using them, but I wasn't comfortable doing so. (The clearances were just too tight for my liking). Besides, I would have had to incorporate a couple of 2" X 8"s, in order to get the initial clearance for the front end fascia that sticks so far out. So seeing as I had to go and buy wood anyway, I just made up some ramps out of stacked up 2" X 8"s. That worked out well.

I didn't have to use the hydraulic jacks, because the ramps themselves were high enough to easily get under both vehicles. But If I had to do some work underneath, the jacks will provide whatever clearance I'll ever need.

Anyway, with hindsight always being 20/20, I probably wouldn't have bought them, knowing what I know now. I can't fault the ramps themselves, because I can all but guarantee I would have run into the same problem with any of the other models. And as I said, the one's that would have cleared, would not have provided the height I would need to get under the thing. At least now I've got a big enough garage to store them in without getting in the way. Live and learn.
 
Best ramps? Race Ramps. Wood ramps for dirt/gravel. For cheap, Rhino ramps unless the front of the car is too low.
 
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Originally Posted by Traction
Best ramps? Race Ramps. Wood ramps for dirt/gravel. For cheap, Rhino ramps unless the front of the car is too low.


Yep.

Now, if Rhino were to make a low approach angle ramp at a Rhino price, They'd have a real winner.
 
Originally Posted by jkasch
Originally Posted by Traction
Best ramps? Race Ramps. Wood ramps for dirt/gravel. For cheap, Rhino ramps unless the front of the car is too low.


Yep.

Now, if Rhino were to make a low approach angle ramp at a Rhino price, They'd have a real winner.

Originally Posted by jkasch
Originally Posted by Traction
Best ramps? Race Ramps. Wood ramps for dirt/gravel. For cheap, Rhino ramps unless the front of the car is too low.


Yep.

Now, if Rhino were to make a low approach angle ramp at a Rhino price, They'd have a real winner.


I've had my Rhino ramps since the first came out, and they did sell an approach extension back then, My 2 piece Race ramps took care of that issue.
 
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