Replacing Old School Green

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Nick1994

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Wanting to change the coolant on my 96' Cherokee. It's always run old school green, wanting something more modern that I can go longer without it getting nasty. I always mix with distilled water.

Maybe G-05?
 
What material are the radiator and heater made from? We have found that the long life coolants destroy copper and soldered parts. If yours are aluminum you can run whatever you want.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
What material are the radiator and heater made from? We have found that the long life coolants destroy copper and soldered parts. If yours are aluminum you can run whatever you want.


I am running G12++ HOAT in two cars with Soldered radiators / heater cores, and have no problems to report, the one i use which is made by Febi has no 2-Eha and i expect no problems to arise.
The ones that have 2-Eha certainly are much more aggressive specially towards solder.
 
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Originally Posted by Nick1994
Wanting to change the coolant on my 96' Cherokee. It's always run old school green, wanting something more modern that I can go longer without it getting nasty. I always mix with distilled water.

Maybe G-05?


G-05 is a very versatile coolant and a nearly perfect replacement for old school green.
 
Originally Posted by Chris142
What material are the radiator and heater made from? We have found that the long life coolants destroy copper and soldered parts. If yours are aluminum you can run whatever you want.

The radiator is a 2 year old Chinese replacement. Heater is original, so whatever that would be.
 
Go to the John Deere dealer and get Cool Gard II, it works perfectly in mix metal engines and is long life.

[Linked Image]
 
Hey, Trav,

What is the "LongLife" in the chart you posted, why does it eat Aluminium?


Originally Posted by Trav
Go to the John Deere dealer and get Cool Gard II, it works perfectly in mix metal engines and is long life.

[Linked Image]
 
I know this is a wacky thought, but what does your owner's manual specify? Anything that adheres to that spec is fine to run; anything that doesn't should be avoided.
 
G-05 is my pick. If you're a bit more daring and feel comfortable with 2-EHA, you can use G-48 which is fill for BMW and Tesla. Both have the same longer life than old school green.
 
Zerex green is good for 5 years, GO-5/Premium Gold has been fine in anything I've put it in, including the 26 year old GMC in my sig, which has it's original soldered heater core (knocking on any wood available...).
 
Originally Posted by FordCapriDriver
0 Aluminium loss is hard to believe.


Why is it hard to believe? They are a very reputable company that manufactures the engine and pays for the testing and warranty the machine and they have not retracted that info or corrected it and it has been out for years. Having used the product for years in every type of mixed metal engine with copper, aluminum, plastic components without any corrosion or issues I believe it.

OP
I have no idea what brands they tested against but it is the real deal and not a dexcool clone but is AFAIK a propitiatory formula.
 
Use the Zerex Green and you don't have to worry about getting all the old in-compatable coolant out.
 
Originally Posted by FordCapriDriver
G-05 and Conventional green do not have any miscibility problems so if you have a little green left in the system it should not cause problems.

If both coolants are good for 5 years....why switch to G-05 when the Green is already proven safe to use ?
 
G-05 is certainly superior, as it also has OAT inhibitors plus stuff like Molybdate which is excellent at protecting solder.
A typical Conventional green formula would be : Silicate + Phosphate + Azole + Borate.
G-05 is Silicate + Nitrate + Molybdate + OAT, Nitrate protects aluminium well and prevents cavitation, Phosphate on the other hand isn't as good at protecting Aluminium and tends to create deposits which Nitrate toes not.
 
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