I'm wondering what the point is buying 5w20 (instead of 0w20) or 10w30 when 0w30 is sitting on the shelf right next to it? Why bother with anything higher than 0w? Seems like the second number is the much more important one to follow for your engine. Any harm whatsoever using 0w20 over 5w20? Wouldn't it make sense for the oil manufacturer to just produce 0w only to save money?
Why bother with 5w 10w etc when 0w exists?
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The least amount of spread between the two numbers is desirable. Also, "0's" are totally unnecessary in southern climates.
Shear stability, lower NOACK, fewer VII are the first 3 reasons that come to mind.
Why would you run a multi-viscosity when a straight viscosity oil would suffice could also be asked. Convenience for varied seasons is usually the reason. But a good SAE 30 is still a great oil in a lot of climates, for a lot of the year.
Why would you run a multi-viscosity when a straight viscosity oil would suffice could also be asked. Convenience for varied seasons is usually the reason. But a good SAE 30 is still a great oil in a lot of climates, for a lot of the year.
The higher the range, the more VIIs are used and the more VIIs are used, the more shear prone are those oils.
But there no harm in using 0w-20 instead of 5w-20 or 0w-30 instead of 5w-30 for example.
0w is only useful where it's very cold, so in hotter climates, 5w or even 10w can be preferable as it would be more shear stable.
But there no harm in using 0w-20 instead of 5w-20 or 0w-30 instead of 5w-30 for example.
0w is only useful where it's very cold, so in hotter climates, 5w or even 10w can be preferable as it would be more shear stable.
Because the processes required to make 5W and 10W base oils is cheaper than 0W, so it sometimes results in 0W oils being more expensive than their warmer-blooded compatriots.
No, there is no issue using a 0W any place where 5W or 10W is acceptable, but also remember that generally speaking, a 0W will have a higher volatility (NOACK %) than a 5W, which in turn will have a higher volatility than 10W and so on.
No, there is no issue using a 0W any place where 5W or 10W is acceptable, but also remember that generally speaking, a 0W will have a higher volatility (NOACK %) than a 5W, which in turn will have a higher volatility than 10W and so on.
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I never see the reason to run a 0W anything.
Price and availability.
There are a few of us nutjobs that use oil in that isnt listed on the fill cap.. but there are lots of different fill caps...so there has to be many weights of oil on the shelves.
Any harm in 0w20 over 5w20? - How about any benefit?
I buy the 0W when it goes on clearance because it doesnt sell....because its not on many fill caps.
Any harm in 0w20 over 5w20? - How about any benefit?
I buy the 0W when it goes on clearance because it doesnt sell....because its not on many fill caps.
I ran 5w20 in the Subaru this Summer. When I went for a purchase, I wanted to run a Magnatec and WM didn't have 0W20 but they had 5W20
It;s not on the 710 cap and Subaru is lazy with their oil charts these days.
The heavier the starting majority base oil in the blend, the more robust the lubrication - everything else being equal at a price point.
Nothing "Nutjob" about that.
It;s not on the 710 cap and Subaru is lazy with their oil charts these days.
The heavier the starting majority base oil in the blend, the more robust the lubrication - everything else being equal at a price point.
Nothing "Nutjob" about that.
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Two reasons for me: my vehicles are never in sub-freezing temperatures AND 5w usually is cheaper than 0w.
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
I'm wondering what the point is buying 5w20 (instead of 0w20) or 10w30 when 0w30 is sitting on the shelf right next to it? Why bother with anything higher than 0w? Seems like the second number is the much more important one to follow for your engine. Any harm whatsoever using 0w20 over 5w20? Wouldn't it make sense for the oil manufacturer to just produce 0w only to save money?
Harmful, no. IMO some people "believe" that even in summer temps the 0W-xx gets to crucial parts of the engine faster than a 5 or 10W-xx oil can, and they base their decision on that.
I'm wondering what the point is buying 5w20 (instead of 0w20) or 10w30 when 0w30 is sitting on the shelf right next to it? Why bother with anything higher than 0w? Seems like the second number is the much more important one to follow for your engine. Any harm whatsoever using 0w20 over 5w20? Wouldn't it make sense for the oil manufacturer to just produce 0w only to save money?
Harmful, no. IMO some people "believe" that even in summer temps the 0W-xx gets to crucial parts of the engine faster than a 5 or 10W-xx oil can, and they base their decision on that.
On the other hand, why bother with 0Wxx oils?
It is true that some 0W20 have a 5 to 10 lower KV40 than their 5w counterparts.
and recall KV40 viscosity test is run at 104 degrees F !
So not even remotely close to Cool or Cold.
No meaningful difference in cool start lubrication - but maybe a difference of hot oil runoff and leakdown.
So Gotcha! On the hot end of the stick.
and recall KV40 viscosity test is run at 104 degrees F !
So not even remotely close to Cool or Cold.
No meaningful difference in cool start lubrication - but maybe a difference of hot oil runoff and leakdown.
So Gotcha! On the hot end of the stick.
It's a give and take.
Quicker flow at startup for a 0w-XX, but yes there are some minor downsides, like higher NOACK, less shear stable, might cost more, etc.
I believe the major oil companies, have this figured out that the downside of a 0w-XX are minimal, and realistically the benefits of a 0w-XX are also minimal over a 5w-XX for most people.
Running either won't be an issue. But if I lived in a hot state, I would be using a 5w or 10w. A very cold location be running a 0w-XX.
Keep in mind even a 0w-XX is too thick at 1st startup regardless of climate.
Why is Mobil 1 Racing oil a 0w-30? Maybe it just naturally flows well due to the high quality ingredients?
Quicker flow at startup for a 0w-XX, but yes there are some minor downsides, like higher NOACK, less shear stable, might cost more, etc.
I believe the major oil companies, have this figured out that the downside of a 0w-XX are minimal, and realistically the benefits of a 0w-XX are also minimal over a 5w-XX for most people.
Running either won't be an issue. But if I lived in a hot state, I would be using a 5w or 10w. A very cold location be running a 0w-XX.
Keep in mind even a 0w-XX is too thick at 1st startup regardless of climate.
Why is Mobil 1 Racing oil a 0w-30? Maybe it just naturally flows well due to the high quality ingredients?
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Originally Posted by jayjr1105
I'm wondering what the point is buying 5w20 (instead of 0w20) or 10w30 when 0w30 is sitting on the shelf right next to it? Why bother with anything higher than 0w? Seems like the second number is the much more important one to follow for your engine. Any harm whatsoever using 0w20 over 5w20? Wouldn't it make sense for the oil manufacturer to just produce 0w only to save money?
Operating climate and price. If the formulators can't make money on the 5w/10w-X they won't sell it.
I'm wondering what the point is buying 5w20 (instead of 0w20) or 10w30 when 0w30 is sitting on the shelf right next to it? Why bother with anything higher than 0w? Seems like the second number is the much more important one to follow for your engine. Any harm whatsoever using 0w20 over 5w20? Wouldn't it make sense for the oil manufacturer to just produce 0w only to save money?
Operating climate and price. If the formulators can't make money on the 5w/10w-X they won't sell it.
Because in high demand applications, you want a higher HTHS.
For my built STI, I shop HTHS.
For my built STI, I shop HTHS.
Originally Posted by jayjr1105
I'm wondering what the point is buying 5w20 (instead of 0w20) or 10w30 when 0w30 is sitting on the shelf right next to it? Why bother with anything higher than 0w? Seems like the second number is the much more important one to follow for your engine. Any harm whatsoever using 0w20 over 5w20? Wouldn't it make sense for the oil manufacturer to just produce 0w only to save money?
Because a 0W oil is going to have more viscosity index improvers and therefore shear more ( lose viscosity )
It's also usually going to have higher NOACK volatility.
It's usually going to have a lower HTHS viscosiy too, which is the viscosity at 150C , HTHS viscosity is basically the viscosity the oil will have in the bearings of the engine.
And for some engine designs like flat tappet camshaft engines actually benefit from a thicker base oil viscosity.
I'm wondering what the point is buying 5w20 (instead of 0w20) or 10w30 when 0w30 is sitting on the shelf right next to it? Why bother with anything higher than 0w? Seems like the second number is the much more important one to follow for your engine. Any harm whatsoever using 0w20 over 5w20? Wouldn't it make sense for the oil manufacturer to just produce 0w only to save money?
Because a 0W oil is going to have more viscosity index improvers and therefore shear more ( lose viscosity )
It's also usually going to have higher NOACK volatility.
It's usually going to have a lower HTHS viscosiy too, which is the viscosity at 150C , HTHS viscosity is basically the viscosity the oil will have in the bearings of the engine.
And for some engine designs like flat tappet camshaft engines actually benefit from a thicker base oil viscosity.
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I have no need for 0w oils. I really have no need for 5w either, and heck, could probably get by with SAE 30 in my vehicles, just hard to find any more.
As mentioned above, the larger the spread between w and weight, the more VII, and higher chance of shearing and higher NOACK
Only reason I have any 0w-oil is clearance. I have no problem using it, even in vehicles not spec'ed for it.
When buying non-clearance oil, I tend to go with 10w-30, because it works best for my conditions.
As mentioned above, the larger the spread between w and weight, the more VII, and higher chance of shearing and higher NOACK
Only reason I have any 0w-oil is clearance. I have no problem using it, even in vehicles not spec'ed for it.
When buying non-clearance oil, I tend to go with 10w-30, because it works best for my conditions.
I want more viscosity protection at cold startup as long as the ambient temp allows the oil to flow....which in my region in dead of winter is a 10w. For anything above -10F......the 5w will easily flow. And above 0F the 10w will easily flow. A friend of mine in SoCal runs a 15w-30 concoction on his vehicles year round. It all flows. So it's all good. 0w will give you less protection at startup.
Originally Posted by MrWideTires
Because in high demand applications, you want a higher HTHS.
For my built STI, I shop HTHS.
Off topic, but what do you use in you Ascent? I know it is specced for 0w-20, but being the bigger brother of the FA20DIT that needs 5w-30, I find it odd.
Because in high demand applications, you want a higher HTHS.
For my built STI, I shop HTHS.
Off topic, but what do you use in you Ascent? I know it is specced for 0w-20, but being the bigger brother of the FA20DIT that needs 5w-30, I find it odd.
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