Woolwax for inside rocker panels, etc?

[JTK]

I plan to apply woolwax to a few of my vehicles. A family member bought a kit with a 5gal pail of it this summer that I can use. I know you can use it in internal cavities on the vehicles, but would it be better to switch to Fluid Film for that purpose? I'm thinking the thicker wookwax could plug drain holes in the bottoms of the doors, etc.

 

[maxdustington]

Wookwax? Was it smuggled by Han Solo?

I think you'll be OK. You could always thin it with a solvent that won't damage anything (alcohol) if you are concerned.

 

[bruckus]

Very similar products but woolwax is a little thicker with more durability. I have used both and still currently use woolwax. I would not worry one bit using woolwax in that application. Not at all bashing fluid film but I believe woolwax is a superior product for almost every application. Fluid film does have quicker creeping properties into small rust prone areas but woolwax will do the same but it takes a bit longer but also is easier to apply and clings better without the dripping. Both great products to help us people in the rust belt part of the country.

 

[Kestas]

This is probably similar to the Texaco Rustproof compound I've used for a couple decades. It's basically a lanolin product derived from sheep. Good stuff. I don't know of any better. Instructions indicate thinning the compound with mineral spirits to make it sprayable. The mineral spirits dry out after a day or so.

Any rustproofing can block drain holes. I've run into that. I like to lay on the rustproofing thick. You just have to keep tabs on it and unblock the drain holes as necessary.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

After 17 years of 'oil' undercoating with Fluid Film and other 'oil' products, (5 years done professionally / 12 years DIY touching up),
there are areas on my vehicle that are sooo oily, I'd be embarrassed to have a Mechanic do any work on it. They may even refuse.
On the rare occasion a Mechanic does any work, I take it to the Car Wash and hose down the area.

Don't get me wrong, Fluid Film is great stuff (it creeps),
I believe the WoolWax that OP refers to is a thicker version of Fluid Film.

I recently purchased a case of Cosmoline in aerosol cans.
Fluid Film vs Cosmoline - Both have pros and cons.
From now on, any 'new' replacement parts will get the Cosmoline.

Last Week I washed off my Rear Axle/Diff and sprayed with Cosmoline.

Ideal situation - Several years of 'light' oil undercoating.
Then, transition to Cosmoline.
Don't over-due the oil like I did.

Oily Mess

Cosmoline (the Gentlemens Undercoating)

 

[eljefino]

^ So I noticed it isn't rusty.

 

[JTK]

Thanks all.

When I get my hands on my brother's woolwax kit that came with the "pro" gun intended to spray woolwax, imma have at my Ram 1500 with it and maybe the Nissan Versa.

He did up his 2019 Ram 1500 classic with woolwax a few months ago and shot in the rockers and doors with it. It still looks about as gooped up as the day he did it in June.

I had my 2017 Ram 1500 treated with Krown last year, but wasn't happy with the application for the ~$160 spent. I know they say "It's still doing it's thing" even though you can't see the product, but not seeing any evidence of Krown basically after a few weeks bothered me. I know not all applications are the same, but I used my closest available dealer. There's like 2-3 in the Buffalo NY area now.

 

[JHZR2]

Anything could clog drain holes. If you're spraying anything in, and even if not (due to pollen, rain wash off of dirt, etc), you need to watch these.

The thing with woolwax vs ff is that I understand it is deodorized. My biggest concern of ff in internal cavities, is that it's only a cardboard panel and a plastic sheet away from coming inside. FF will lose its odor and stay behind nicely in exterior non-wash locations. I'm not sure the airflow where you're looking is sufficient.

Go slow and watch your drains.

 

[JTK]

Yes- there is little/no odor to woolwax and you'd really have to create a pool of it for it to drip off. Problem is, given it's just a tad thinner than butterscotch pudding, it's a bit messy and slow to load the quart jars that attach to the spray gun. It's only supposed to be around 50degF in my area this week when I planned to spray my truck. Could be interesting..

 

[JTK]

It was a nice warm day today so I got the woolwax job done on my Ram. I removed the rear wheel well liners and dropped the spare tire. 11 bolts each for the wheel well liners and they pop right out. 5min per side easy job. Spraying the vehicle is a messy job and not easy for me anymore to be rolling around on the ground. You feel like you need 3 hands at times when using the flex wands on the spray gun. I think I did an OK job. With all those nooks and crannies and no lift, it's tough to get everything. I did spray into the rockers, doors, liftgate, etc. Woolwax smells pleasant to me and actually made my hand eczema feel great. Easy soap and water clean up with the stuff.

 

[stenerson]

It's thicker than FF. I've used both. I wouldn't use it inside doors or panels. I prefer to use tranny fluid or others that are lighter and penetrate better. I bought a gallon of this product last year and used inside panels.

 

[vavavroom]

I'm not sure if an animal-based product is a good idea. Lanolin will go rancid eventually and the car will smell like a sheep's bum. Don't ask. Who knows what kind of bugs that will attract? I know Fluid Film is also a lanolin-based but I presume it's a highly refined and purified product.

 

[eljefino]

FF user here. No bugs. I put it on on the last warm day before they salt the roads, so most bugs are already dead or hibernating.

 

[JC1]

I've been using fluid film for the last 5 years. On interior door panels or areas that it isn't hit by water it sticks and builds a film that doesnt drip off. Smell goes away after 7-10 days of initial application. I prefer it to Krown and I'm DIYing it, so I make sure everything is coated well.

I'm not trying to get a whole vehicle done in 30-45 mins like the shops do (oops missed a few panels or frame spots). Not a chance!

 

[IndyFan]

I've used FF for several years and never found it to go rancid or attract bugs. It's good stuff. I treat every fall, mainly inside the frame rails and a few small body cavities underneath. My Jeeps get plenty of road salt and also mud. No rust.

My 13 yo Wrangler until just a couple years ago only got frequent underbody spray off in the winter and a fall treatment of Rustoleum Rust Reformer only on spots just beginning to show surface rust. THe frame/underbody looks like new. I just started using FF on it a few years ago.

I still use the Rustoleum on spots on the skid plates, frame, and crossmembers where I've hit or scraped rocks while off-roading. Works beautifully.

 

[JTK]

Bringing back a bit of an old thread here. As an update, I've since done 3 more vehicles with a mix of WW or FF. Which ever can I had on hand at the time. I've found that if you use WW on a warm day, it will flow well into cavities and panels. If it's not an 80F+ day, I'd stick with FF for inner areas where you are relying on it to flow to do it's thing.

I have also found that WW definitely hangs around longer than FF on exposed under-body surfaces. It turns into a greasy, gritty black messy coating, but I'll take that all day long over rust. Plus once you have that build-up, subsequent re-coats take a lot less time and product.

 

[Driz]

Bringing back a bit of an old thread here. As an update, I've since done 3 more vehicles with a mix of WW or FF. Which ever can I had on hand at the time. I've found that if you use WW on a warm day, it will flow well into cavities and panels. If it's not an 80F+ day, I'd stick with FF for inner areas where you are relying on it to flow to do it's thing.

I have also found that WW definitely hangs around longer than FF on exposed under-body surfaces. It turns into a greasy, gritty black messy coating, but I'll take that all day long over rust. Plus once you have that build-up, subsequent re-coats take a lot less time and product.

Just heat your gooey concoction up with a stove or setting in hot water and it will go into the crevices. That what I do with my ATF, Petrolium Jelly, Bar and chain oil mix. It sprays far better that way as well.

 

[JTK]

Just heat your gooey concoction up with a stove or setting in hot water and it will go into the crevices. That what I do with my ATF, Petrolium Jelly, Bar and chain oil mix. It sprays far better that way as well.

I'm sure that works too, but I've found that cold body panels and cold air still work against you.

 

[stenerson]

I'm sure that works too, but I've found that cold body panels and cold air still work against you.

Yeah I like doing the cavity spraying in the hottest, most miserable summer days. I know it's doing the most creeping.

 

[doublebase]

I’ve used fluid film for years now...usually two coats a year and once this stuff kind of layers up...it creates this nice protective yet flexible barrier.

Ive used Cosmoline too...I think it’s stronger, more durable.

Sometimes when I have neither on hand, I’ll use white lithium grease spray. It sticks and it’s thick enough to give you some protection.

I’ve tried some homemade formulas...bar and chain, various mixtures of wax, oil and grease. It’s all just too inconsistent and messy. IMO. If you’re worried about the fluid film being too thin, just don’t buy it in the cans. The FF you buy that must be sprayed on is much thicker.