Anybody Run A Different Winter Oil ?
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Originally Posted by A_Harman
In the Camaro, 5w30 year-round, but for a few winters in the past, I used 0w30.
In the Ram, 15w40 conventional April-November, 5w40 synthetic December-March.
You drive your Z28 in the snow?
In the Camaro, 5w30 year-round, but for a few winters in the past, I used 0w30.
In the Ram, 15w40 conventional April-November, 5w40 synthetic December-March.
You drive your Z28 in the snow?
Nope. Gonna stick with 0w40 year round.
Mobil 1 0w40 FS (or Comma X-Tech 5w30 ACEA A5) for winter
5w40 summer (Comma Syner-G or INA Millennium or Shell Helix Ultra)
5w40 summer (Comma Syner-G or INA Millennium or Shell Helix Ultra)
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No. The only way I would do it is if I lived somewhere it was really cold for months at a time and if my normal commute was short enough it doesn't get to operating temp. Otherwise I don't see the point.
Conventional 5w30 in the summer, conventional 5w30 in the winter.
Not in several decades.
I just switched from Kendall GT1 SB 5/30 to Havoline SB HiMi 5/30, does that count?🤔
Originally Posted by Zolton
I would shy away from 5w-40 in winter for a turbo engine, it's several times thicker than 5w-30 in extreme cold.
How can one 5w be "several times thicker" than another 5w?🤔
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/09/full-85545-36652-sae_j300_600x386.jpg "[Linked Image]")
I would shy away from 5w-40 in winter for a turbo engine, it's several times thicker than 5w-30 in extreme cold.
How can one 5w be "several times thicker" than another 5w?🤔
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Hi
5W-30 fully synthetic all year around.
I did not realise there was a 'need' to change. Or is this only for extreme climates?
What will a 0w offer in winter that would not be suitable for summer? Presuming off course this or near viscosities are suitable for the engine.
Thanks.
5W-30 fully synthetic all year around.
I did not realise there was a 'need' to change. Or is this only for extreme climates?
What will a 0w offer in winter that would not be suitable for summer? Presuming off course this or near viscosities are suitable for the engine.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by Tikka
Hi
5W-30 fully synthetic all year around.
I did not realise there was a 'need' to change. Or is this only for extreme climates?
What will a 0w offer in winter that would not be suitable for summer? Presuming off course this or near viscosities are suitable for the engine.
Thanks.
From a practical standpoint, nothing. Summertime temps in N. America make the winter rating (Xw) largely irrelevant. That is to say from a 0w to a 5w and a 5w to a 10w or vice versa. The viscosities at low summertime temps in the above example is not all that significant from one grade to the next adjacent grade, especially when you consider how fast engines warm up in the summer. The viscosity difference becomes more pronounced if say you went to a 15w from a 0w and may be something to consider. Ideally you want a Xw that most closely matches what a) your owners manual states and b) expected outside temps, as these will represent what the engine builders deemed appropriate "cold" thicknesses for that engine build. (the above example does not account for engines that fuel dilute/consume oil.. that's a whole nother discussion which might call for higher viscosities than would be normally considered)
That said you can get into a whole separate ("in the weeds") discussion around (the use of) viscosity modifiers & multi vis oils. But.. keeping it simple, if you don't see temps below -35c, just use a 5w-X year round and don't lose sleep over it.
Hi
5W-30 fully synthetic all year around.
I did not realise there was a 'need' to change. Or is this only for extreme climates?
What will a 0w offer in winter that would not be suitable for summer? Presuming off course this or near viscosities are suitable for the engine.
Thanks.
From a practical standpoint, nothing. Summertime temps in N. America make the winter rating (Xw) largely irrelevant. That is to say from a 0w to a 5w and a 5w to a 10w or vice versa. The viscosities at low summertime temps in the above example is not all that significant from one grade to the next adjacent grade, especially when you consider how fast engines warm up in the summer. The viscosity difference becomes more pronounced if say you went to a 15w from a 0w and may be something to consider. Ideally you want a Xw that most closely matches what a) your owners manual states and b) expected outside temps, as these will represent what the engine builders deemed appropriate "cold" thicknesses for that engine build. (the above example does not account for engines that fuel dilute/consume oil.. that's a whole nother discussion which might call for higher viscosities than would be normally considered)
That said you can get into a whole separate ("in the weeds") discussion around (the use of) viscosity modifiers & multi vis oils. But.. keeping it simple, if you don't see temps below -35c, just use a 5w-X year round and don't lose sleep over it.
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02 Jeep Synthetic Winter 5W-30 Summer 10W-30.
No. Since the 70's I've lived from Duluth, MN to Phoenix, AZ. Used what the manufacturer recommended.
Never.
Back 50 years ago or more we ran Havoline SAE 30 year round. Some people might switch to a 20 grade if the temperatures got real low. My grandfather did during the winter seasons in Eastern Oregon where it does get real cold.
A 5w30 is plenty good year round. If temps are so low that you are concerned, get a pan or block heater.
Back 50 years ago or more we ran Havoline SAE 30 year round. Some people might switch to a 20 grade if the temperatures got real low. My grandfather did during the winter seasons in Eastern Oregon where it does get real cold.
A 5w30 is plenty good year round. If temps are so low that you are concerned, get a pan or block heater.
Guys, What do you think Multigrade oils are for? Jeepers.
I have not found a modern engine that ran well - or properly - with
Different oil grade and HTHS in moderate climates.
Just this year I ran a different oil in the Summer.
5W20 in the Subaru instead of 0W20
Gave me some purchase and choice flexibilty.
NO need for 0W in Spring though Fall up here in New Hampshire.
If you want something HD for towing in heat, I would go to an ACEA A3 with high HTHS
Or if car is spec as a 20 grade , just substitute 1 > 2 quarts with same line/brand of next grade up - changing the whole sump is not necessary or wanted.
This is the new , safe alternative to where we were likely adding some STP decades ago to boost HTHS.
HTHS
THAT is the number that matters WHERE it matters - . not KV100.
I have not found a modern engine that ran well - or properly - with
Different oil grade and HTHS in moderate climates.
Just this year I ran a different oil in the Summer.
5W20 in the Subaru instead of 0W20
Gave me some purchase and choice flexibilty.
NO need for 0W in Spring though Fall up here in New Hampshire.
If you want something HD for towing in heat, I would go to an ACEA A3 with high HTHS
Or if car is spec as a 20 grade , just substitute 1 > 2 quarts with same line/brand of next grade up - changing the whole sump is not necessary or wanted.
This is the new , safe alternative to where we were likely adding some STP decades ago to boost HTHS.
HTHS
THAT is the number that matters WHERE it matters - . not KV100.
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