post your latest transmission lubricant change.

Originally Posted by Red91
What transmission is that? I'm assuming since you're using type f it's a Ford of some kind.


BW35 in the Marina in my signature.

Not a particularly inspiring engine-transmission combination, but it's what's there(and it's a decently uncommon car).
 
Originally Posted by Red91
Oh ok, I can't see signatures on my phone. I don't guess I'm familiar with that transmission or car.


From what I've seen, it was a transmission with basically two main users-several 60s AMC products, and then it was the auto of choice on a lot of British stuff. Of course ratios, TC configuration, etc varied between applications but it's a pretty basic 3 speed non-OD box.

This one is behind a low compression(8.0:1) 1.8L "B" series engine-it's essentially the same engine as was in US 72-76 MGBs but with a cast crank rather than forged. This is an old cast iron small bore/long stroke OHV engine that, in typically conservative British fashion, was dated when it was released in the 1950s. When the Marina first came to the US market, the MGB still ran on twin 1.5" carburetors, while the Marina simplified that to a single 1.75" carb(the MGB later switched to a single 1.75" carb, but it was pretty seriously strangled by some sharp turns in the exhaust manifold to accommodate a catalytic converter-the Marina has the same basic free flowing exhaust design as earlier MGBs). At 70-some-odd horsepower moving a 3000lb car, it's not going to win any races, especially with an auto. Once the transmission gets ironed out, the engine should respond to the same basic mods common to MGB engines, which should get it within spitting distance of 100hp. The one saving grace of having an old tractor engine is the fact that at least it's decently torquey down low...

Of course, even if the transmission comes back to life with a pan drop/fluid change, it's probably on borrowed time, and I don't know if I want to up the power until things are properly straightened out.
 
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Do transfer case fluid changes go in this forum?

If so....my NTM 2005 Ford Ranger FX4 transfer case.

OUT: Fewer than 40 ounces of very dark red fluid which was likely factory fill.

IN: 16 ounces of Dex/Merc LV + 24 ounces of a "multi-spec" fluid resulting in 40 ounces of "Lubrication Joy".

Upon my next drain & fill (assuming appropriately clean exit-fluid) I'll use 100% LV as per Ford's recent backspec update.
 
Redline 75W90 NS (recommended) in our Porsche 911. Jury is still out, but initial thoughts are that the car became balky in the lower gears when cold and noticeably notchy at operating temp. I cant say that I am truly unhappy, I actually like the notchy feel, but I am going to use OE when I replace fluid in the Boxster later this year.
 
Gearbox oil change on my 1975 Capri

OUT : Ford 75W-90 "BO" , 3 years old
IN : Castrol EP 80W GL-4

Shifts better now with the recommended viscosity oil versus how it did with the 75w90.

It used to crunch when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, now it only does it a little bit sometimes and most times not at all.
 
All the Lexi got filled with either Toyota T-IV or WS.

4Runner got filled with Toyota Dexron III.

All were done in a 2 week period.
 
2002 Toyota Highlander 3.0L V6, 279,000 miles
Drain and fill using Maxlife Multi-Vehicle/import. I suspect what I drained was the factory fill. Nastiest fluid I have ever seen in a functioning transmission
 
Wife's 2013 Cadillac SRX is at 94,000 miles, so I changed all the fluids.

Transmission: MaxLife ATF, took about 2.5 gallons to flush using a cooling line.

Transfer case: AC Delco full syn 75w-90 transfer case oil.

Rear axle: Valvoline 75w-90 gear oil, added 2 oz of AC Delco limited slip additive

Haldex rear axle clutch: This was interesting. (Pics to follow) Finding the filter/gasket set and proper oil was not easy. GM acts like these are non-serviceable items. Check out the inside of the filter cover when it was removed. Sludge city. Cheaned and refilled with AC Delco # 8886349, Made in Sweden and about $60 a quart!

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]
 
BMW 435i 54k miles on my ZF8HP. ZF LG8, pan, screws, and mechatronic sleeve. Woo-hoo ! (Yes, I get excited about this kind of stuff).

Thank you FCP Euro!


One less thing to worry about.
 
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2018 Nissan Pathfinder with 30K. First drain and refill.

Drained 3 1/2 quarts and replaced with a touch more to be able to set the level correctly.
The fluid that I drained was pretty dark but still had a blue tint to it.
 
Originally Posted by gd9704
Made in Sweden and about $60 a quart!

crazy2.gif

there HAS to be a MUCH cheaper alternative.
 
2005 XTerra 6-speed
Out: ???
In: Red Line MT-85

Two showers later and I still smell like gear oil
frown.gif
 
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2011 Sequoia on ramps. 1st service. 122k
Out: pinch under 5 qts factory fill
In: same amount with Idemitsu TLS-LV. The 5qt jug was just perfect.
 
2015 Mitsubishi Lancer ES w/ CVT @ 58,106 mi

Out: 4qts of MMC DiaQueen CVT Fluid J4 extracted from sump (7.5qt total transmission capacity)

In: 4qts of Castrol Transmax CVT (Meets MMC DiaQueen CVT J4 spec)

21,408 mi / 35 months since last 4qt drain & fill
 
2007 BMW 335i 6hp19

211,000 miles. Last changed by me at 120,000 with oe filter and ZF fluid. Dropped the filter, love the design. Impossible to leak. Filled with MaxLife, shifts smoother than ever.
 
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